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Winnie Rabbit Garden Helper Amigurumi Pattern

Winnie Rabbit Garden Helper Amigurumi Pattern
3.9β˜… Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
2.2K Made This
βœ‚οΈ

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic knitting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive knitting.

🐰

Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Winnie Rabbit Garden Helper Amigurumi Pattern

This delightful Winnie Rabbit pattern brings together the charm of a hardworking garden bunny with an entire collection of accessories that tell a story. The pattern includes instructions for creating not just the rabbit, but also a functional wheelbarrow, garden tools (shovel, hoe, and rake), and fresh vegetables (cabbage, carrots in two sizes, and tomatoes). The rabbit features thread-jointed limbs for posability, embroidered facial features for a sweet expression, and careful color changes to create the tummy and tail details that add extra charm.

Winnie Rabbit Garden Helper Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

What makes this pattern special is the attention to detail in every component. From the fluffy tail to the tiny garden tools with movable parts, each element is thoughtfully designed to create a complete gardening scene that sparks joy and imagination.

Why You'll Love This Winnie Rabbit Garden Helper Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it's not just about making a cute bunnyβ€”it's about creating an entire miniature world! The satisfaction of completing each tiny vegetable and tool is incredibly rewarding, and watching your rabbit come to life with personality through the embroidered features is pure magic. I especially appreciate how the thread jointing technique allows you to pose your bunny in different gardening positions, making it perfect for display or play. The pattern's versatility means you can make it in different yarn weights for various sizes, and the detailed photo instructions ensure you'll succeed even with the more complex elements like the wheelbarrow assembly.

Winnie Rabbit Garden Helper Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Winnie Rabbit Garden Helper Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Winnie Rabbit Garden Helper Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Winnie Rabbit Garden Helper Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this Winnie Rabbit pattern truly is! While the original features a sweet green bunny with garden accessories, I've experimented with so many creative variations that completely transform the character.

For a cottagecore aesthetic, I've made the rabbit in soft cream or dusty pink with floral-patterned fabric ears instead of crocheted ones. I've also created a winter version using white or light blue yarn with a tiny scarf and carrot instead of the full garden set.

The vegetables are perfect for mix-and-match creativity - I've made just the carrots for Easter baskets, or created an entire farmer's market collection by adding potatoes, radishes, and pumpkins following the same shaping principles. Some crafters have even made the wheelbarrow larger to use as a pencil holder!

For children's toys, I skip the wire in the tools and make them softer and safer. I've also embroidered different facial expressions - sleepy eyes, winking, or surprised looks - that completely change the rabbit's personality.

The pattern works beautifully in plush yarn for a cuddly bedtime buddy, or in vibrant rainbow colors for a more whimsical, modern look. I've even seen versions where crafters added overalls or a little gardening apron using fabric scraps.

My favorite personal twist is making a family set - a mama rabbit, papa rabbit, and baby bunnies in graduated sizes by adjusting hook sizes, creating an adorable garden helper family scene that's perfect for spring dΓ©cor or thoughtful handmade gifts.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Forgetting to stuff the head firmly enough on the sides (cheeks) while keeping it slightly flat front and back for proper triangle shape βœ— Misaligning the beginning of rounds during head shaping which causes increases and decreases to be positioned incorrectly affecting facial symmetry βœ— Not shifting stitch markers to the middle of the back between sections as instructed leading to uneven body proportions and pattern misalignment βœ— Stuffing the arms completely instead of only the upper part up to the elbow making them too stiff for proper posing βœ— Sewing limbs without marking attachment points first or not stretching thread tight enough during thread jointing causing loose wobbly limbs βœ— Placing safety eyes too close together or at wrong rounds creating an unbalanced expression instead of cute bunny face βœ— Over-stuffing the flat pieces like feet and hips which should remain relatively flat for proper shaping and stability

Winnie Rabbit Garden Helper Amigurumi Pattern

Create your own adorable Winnie Rabbit with this charming amigurumi pattern! This hardworking bunny comes complete with a wheelbarrow, garden tools, and fresh vegetables including carrots, cabbage, and tomatoes. Standing at approximately 7.9 inches (20 cm) when made with semi-cotton yarn, this sweet rabbit features expressive eyes, fluffy tail, and poseable limbs with thread jointing. Perfect for garden lovers and bunny enthusiasts alike, this pattern includes detailed instructions for creating a complete gardening scene that will delight crafters of all skill levels.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Winnie Rabbit Garden Helper Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Semi-cotton yarn (360 yds/3.5 oz) - YarnArt JEANS or Alize Cotton Gold in white, ivory, pink, green, and black
  • 02
    For plush version: Himalaya Dolphin Baby or YarnArt Dolce (131 yds/3.5 oz) approximately 1.5 skeins main color
  • 03
    Brown yarn (Alize Cotton Gold 02) for wheelbarrow and tools
  • 04
    Dark grey yarn (Alize Cotton Gold 87) for bucket
  • 05
    Orange yarn (YarnArt Jeans 77) for carrots
  • 06
    Red yarn (YarnArt Jeans 56) for tomato
  • 07
    Green yarn (YarnArt Jeans 11, 69) for vegetables
  • 08
    Thin black thread for embroidering facial features
  • 09
    Thin black sewing thread for whiskers

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    2 mm crochet hook (for semi-cotton yarn version)
  • 02
    3.5 mm crochet hook (for plush yarn version)
  • 03
    Pair of safety plastic eyes 5-6 mm (or 10-12 mm for plush version)
  • 04
    Needle for sewing body parts and embroidering
  • 05
    Synthetic or tooth thread for thread mount jointing
  • 06
    Stitch markers
  • 07
    Pins with large head
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Fiber filling/stuffing
  • 10
    Optional: Steel or copper wire (0.89-1mm) with insulated ends for garden tool shafts

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Eye Whites (Make 2):

Info:

Use white yarn, can be replaced with felt pieces

Row 0:

Chain 4

Row 1:

Start in 2nd chain from hook: 2 SC, 4 SC into last chain, on other side: 2 SC (7)

Info:

Join oval with straight line or SS, fix thread, leave long end for sewing, withdraw to wrong side, insert eyes in lower side of oval shifted to center

β€” Head and Body (crocheted as one piece):

Info:

Use green yarn, stuff in process

Round 1:

6 SC in MR

Round 2:

6 INC (12)

Round 3:

(SC, INC)*6 (18)

Round 4:

(2 SC, INC)*6 (24)

Round 5:

24 SC

Round 6:

(3 SC, INC)*6 (30)

Round 7:

(4 SC, INC)*6 (36)

Round 8-9:

2 rounds of 36 SC

Info:

In Round 10 mark beginning of round with stitch marker - this is middle of back of rabbit's head, don't remove marker, align beginning of round as indicated in pattern

Round 10:

5 SC, (SC, INC)*4, 9 SC, (SC, INC)*4, 6 SC (44)

Round 11:

5 SC, (2 SC, INC)*4, 10 SC, (INC, 2 SC)*4, 5 SC (52)

Round 12-14:

3 rounds of 52 SC

Info:

Insert eyes between Round 9 and Round 10 at distance of 6 SC, fix plug on wrong side, sew eye whites with upper edge 3 rounds above pupil, lower edge 1 round below, distance between eye whites is 4 SC

Round 15:

5 SC, (2 SC, DEC)*4, 10 SC, (DEC, 2 SC)*4, 5 SC (44)

Round 16:

5 SC, (SC, DEC)*4, 9 SC, (SC, DEC)*4, 6 SC (36)

Round 17:

(4 SC, DEC)*6 (30)

Round 18:

(3 SC, DEC)*6 (24)

Round 19:

(2 SC, DEC)*6 (18)

Info:

Head should be well stuffed on sides (cheeks) and slightly flat in front and back (triangle shape), continue crocheting body

Round 20-22:

3 rounds of 18 SC

Round 23:

(5 SC, INC)*3 (21)

Round 24:

(6 SC, INC)*3 (24)

Round 25:

6 SC, (SC, INC)*6, 6 SC (30)

Round 26-29:

4 rounds of 30 SC

Round 30:

2 SC, (SC, INC)*2, (2 SC, DEC)*4, SC, (SC, INC)*2, 3 SC (30)

Round 31:

30 SC

Round 32:

3 SC, (2 SC, INC)*3, 6 SC, (INC, 2 SC)*3, 3 SC (36)

Round 33:

36 SC

Round 34:

3 SC, (3 SC, INC)*3, 6 SC, (INC, 3 SC)*3, 3 SC (42)

Round 35-48:

14 rounds of 42 SC

Round 49:

(5 SC, DEC)*6 (36)

Round 50:

(4 SC, DEC)*6 (30)

Round 51:

(3 SC, DEC)*6 (24)

Round 52:

(2 SC, DEC)*6 (18)

Round 53:

(SC, DEC)*6 (12)

Round 54:

6 DEC

Info:

Tighten hole, fix thread and hide end inside body

β€” Muzzle:

Info:

Start with ivory yarn

Round 1:

8 SC in MR

Round 2:

(SC, 3 SC in same St)*4 (16)

Round 3:

10 SC, 3 SC in same St, 3 INC, 3 SC in same St, SC (23)

Round 4:

Change to green: 10 SC, change to ivory: 13 SC (23)

Round 5:

Change to green: 10 SC, change to ivory, fix green thread and leave long end to sew: 12 SC, SS (23)

Info:

Fix thread and leave long end to sew

β€” Nose:

Info:

Use pink yarn, don't stuff

Row 0:

Chain 4

Row 1:

Start in 2nd chain from hook: 2 SC, 3 SC into last chain, on other side: 3 SC in same St, INC (10)

Round 2:

BLO: 10 SC

Round 3:

10 SC

Info:

Finish with straight line, leave long end to sew, sew nose on muzzle above MR, stuff muzzle lightly and sew in area of Round 10-17

β€” Face Embroidery:

Info:

Embroider eyelids with green thread (angle affects expression), embroider lower edge of eyelid with thin black thread

Info:

Embroider smile on muzzle with thin black thread, fix curve with stitches at two lower points

Info:

Embroider whiskers with thin black thread

Info:

Embroider eyebrows with black thread several times in area of Round 4-6 to make them thick

β€” Ears (Make 2):

Inner Part (Make 2):

Pink yarn, make turn and work turning CH at end of each row

Row 0:

Chain 2

Row 1:

In 2nd chain from hook: INC (2)

Row 2:

2 SC

Row 3:

INC, SC (3)

Row 4:

3 SC

Row 5:

INC, 2 SC (4)

Row 6-14:

9 rows of 4 SC

Info:

Fix and cut thread, hide initial and end threads along one side between loops

External Part (Make 2):

Green yarn, make turn and work turning CH at end of each row

Row 0:

Chain 2

Row 1:

In 2nd chain from hook: INC (2)

Row 2:

2 SC

Row 3:

INC, SC (3)

Row 4:

3 SC

Row 5:

INC, 2 SC (4)

Row 6-14:

9 rows of 4 SC

Assembly:

Don't cut thread, hide initial thread between loops, work CH, attach pink inner part with hidden threads inside, crochet two details together with SC along contour working 3 SC in same St in corners

Info:

Work CH, fold detail in half and work both sides with 3 SS, fix thread, leave long end to sew, withdraw to base of ear

Info:

Sew ears on top of head in area of Round 3-4 of head

β€” Hair:

Info:

Fix piece of green thread on top of head with knot, separate and trim threads, for plush yarn crochet several loop stitches or fix cotton thread with knots to match

β€” Tummy:

Info:

Ivory yarn, make turn and work turning CH at end of each row, can replace semi-cotton with textured fluffy yarn like YarnArt Mink, Nako Paris, Alize Softy

Row 0:

Chain 3

Row 1:

In 2nd chain from hook: 2 SC

Row 2-4:

3 rows of 2 SC

Row 5:

2 INC (4)

Row 6:

INC, 2 SC, INC (6)

Row 7:

INC, 4 SC, INC (8)

Row 8-9:

2 rows of 8 SC

Row 10:

Skip St, 5 SC, DEC (6)

Row 11:

6 SC

Row 12:

INC, 4 SC, INC (8)

Row 13:

INC, 6 SC, INC (10)

Row 14-27:

14 rows of 10 SC

Row 28:

Skip St, 7 SC, DEC (8)

Row 29:

Skip St, 5 SC, DEC (6)

Row 30:

Skip St, 3 SC, DEC (4)

Info:

Work CH, crochet detail with SC along contour, work 3 SC in same St in upper corners, finish with straight line, leave long end to sew

Info:

Sew on body so upper edge of tummy abuts on muzzle

β€” Arms (Make 2):

Info:

Green yarn, stuff only upper part of arm up to elbow

Round 1:

6 SC in MR

Round 2-4:

3 rounds of 6 SC

Round 5:

DEC, 4 SC (5)

Round 6:

INC, 4 SC (6)

Round 7:

INC, 5 SC (7)

Round 8-12:

5 rounds of 7 SC

Info:

In Round 13, 2 INC should be on opposite side from DEC in Round 5 as they form arm bend, shift if needed

Round 13:

3 SC, 2 INC, 2 SC (9)

Round 14-20:

7 rounds of 9 SC

Round 21:

4 DEC, don't work up to end (5)

Info:

Tighten hole, fix thread and hide end inside

β€” Legs:

Hip (Make 2):

Stuff at end of crocheting so part remains flat

Row 0:

Chain 7

Row 1:

Start in 2nd chain from hook: 5 SC, 5 SC into last chain, on other side: 4 SC, INC (16)

Round 2:

INC, 4 SC, 5 INC, 4 SC, 2 INC (24)

Round 3:

SC, INC, 4 SC, (SC, INC)*5, 4 SC, (SC, INC)*2 (32)

Round 4:

2 SC, INC, 4 SC, (2 SC, INC)*5, 4 SC, (2 SC, INC)*2 (40)

Round 5:

3 SC, INC, 4 SC, (3 SC, INC)*5, 4 SC, (3 SC, INC)*2 (48)

Round 6:

48 SC

Round 7:

3 SC, DEC, 4 SC, (3 SC, DEC)*5, 4 SC, (3 SC, DEC)*2 (40)

Round 8:

2 SC, DEC, 4 SC, (2 SC, DEC)*5, 4 SC, (2 SC, DEC)*2 (32)

Round 9:

SC, DEC, 4 SC, (SC, DEC)*5, 4 SC, (SC, DEC)*2 (24)

Round 10:

DEC, 4 SC, 5 DEC, 4 SC, 2 DEC (16)

Info:

Fix thread, leave long end and tighten hole along straight line, hide thread inside

Foot (Make 2):

Stuff in process so detail remains flat

Round 1:

6 SC in MR

Round 2:

6 INC (12)

Round 3:

(3 SC, 3 INC)*2 (18)

Round 4:

3 SC, (SC, INC)*3, 3 SC, (SC, INC)*3 (24)

Round 5:

5 SC, (SC, DEC)*5, 4 SC (19)

Round 6:

19 SC

Round 7:

5 SC, 5 DEC, 4 SC (14)

Round 8:

14 SC

Round 9:

2 SC, 4 DEC, 4 SC (10)

Round 10-13:

4 rounds of 10 SC

Round 14:

5 DEC (5)

Info:

Tighten hole, leave long end to sew and withdraw from above between Round 9 and Round 10

Info:

With thin black thread embroider two lines slightly tightening for fingers, sew feet on hips as shown

β€” Thread Jointing Limbs:

Info:

Mark attachment areas: on arms between Round 19-20 on left and right, on hips from side of hole tightening on left and right legs

Info:

Mark body attachment: from above between Round 26-27 on sides, from below between Round 46-47 on sides

Info:

Insert long needle through body at 1st arm mounting place and withdraw at 2nd arm place, put arm on needle taking only front part of fabric (not through whole detail) 2-3 SC and fiber filling

Info:

Turn back through same hole to initial thread end and put 2nd arm on needle, stretch arms very well and tie thread ends, hide in body through same initial hole so knot hides inside

Info:

Do thread mount of legs same way as described for arms

β€” Tail:

Info:

Ivory yarn, stuff not tight, can replace semi-cotton with textured fluffy yarn like YarnArt Mink, Nako Paris, Alize Softy

Round 1:

6 SC in MR

Round 2:

6 INC (12)

Round 3:

(SC, INC)*6 (18)

Round 4-6:

3 rounds of 18 SC

Round 7:

(SC, DEC)*6 (12)

Round 8:

6 DEC (6)

Info:

Tighten hole, fix thread and leave long end to sew, sew on back of body in area of Round 46-48

β€” Wheelbarrow:

Bottom Side:

Brown yarn, make turn and work turning CH at end of each row

Row 0:

Chain 15

Row 1:

Start in 2nd chain from hook: 14 SC

Row 2-29:

28 rows of 14 SC

Info:

Work CH, fold in half and crochet sides together with 14 SC, fix thread and leave long end to attach details

Side Wall (Make 2):

Brown yarn, make turn and work turning CH at end of each row

Row 0:

Chain 15

Row 1:

Start in 2nd chain from hook: 14 SC

Row 2:

14 SC

Row 3:

Skip St, 13 SC (13)

Row 4:

11 SC, DEC (12)

Row 5:

Skip St, 11 SC (11)

Row 6:

11 SC

Row 7:

INC, 10 SC (12)

Row 8:

11 SC, INC (13)

Row 9:

INC, 12 SC (14)

Row 10:

14 SC

Info:

Work CH, fold in half and crochet sides together with 14 SC, fix thread and leave long end to attach details

Front Wall:

Brown yarn, make turn and work turning CH at end of each row

Row 0:

Chain 15

Row 1:

Start in 2nd chain from hook: 14 SC

Row 2-10:

9 rows of 14 SC

Info:

Work CH, fold in half and crochet sides together with 14 SC, fix thread and leave long end to attach details

Assembly:

Steam details with iron, join all parts with seam of SS (crochet both parts together with SS), join side walls and bottom side, join front wall and bottom side, join corners of side walls and front wall, hide thread ends inside walls

Wheel:

Brown yarn

Round 1:

8 SC in MR

Round 2:

8 INC (16)

Round 3:

(SC, INC)*8 (24)

Round 4:

24 BPSC

Round 5:

24 SC

Round 6:

24 BPSC

Round 7:

(SC, DEC)*8 (16)

Round 8:

8 DEC (8)

Info:

Stuff detail keeping flat shape, tighten hole, fix thread and hide end inside

Wheel Holder (Make 2):

Brown yarn, make turn and work turning CH at end of each row

Row 0:

Chain 7

Row 1:

Start in 2nd chain from hook: 6 SC, turning chain, turn

Row 2:

6 SC

Info:

Work CH, fold in half alongside and crochet sides together with 6 SC, fix thread and leave long end to sew to wheel and wheelbarrow, sew details to wheel then to wheelbarrow

Handle (Make 2):

Brown yarn

Round 1:

6 SC in MR

Round 2-10:

9 rounds of 6 SC

Info:

Fix thread and leave long end to sew, sew on sides of wheelbarrow from below

β€” Bucket:

Info:

Dark grey yarn

Round 1:

8 SC in MR

Round 2:

8 INC (16)

Round 3:

(SC, INC)*8 (24)

Round 4:

(2 SC, INC)*8 (32)

Round 5:

BLO: 32 SC

Round 6-7:

2 rounds of 32 SC

Round 8:

(7 SC, INC)*4 (36)

Round 9-11:

3 rounds of 36 SC

Round 12:

(8 SC, INC)*4 (40)

Round 13-15:

3 rounds of 40 SC

Round 16:

(9 SC, INC)*4 (44)

Round 17-18:

2 rounds of 44 SC

Round 19:

FLO: 44 SC

Info:

Finish with straight line, leave long end for bucket handle, count 22 St in Round 18 and fix thread on front loop forming handle, hide thread end on wrong side between loops

Info:

Turn back to Round 4, attach thread to free front loop and work FLO: 32 SC, finish with straight line, hide thread ends on wrong side, coin can be used as weighting material glued inside to bottom (not recommended for young children)

β€” Cabbage:

Base:

Green yarn, stuff in process

Round 1:

6 SC in MR

Round 2:

6 INC (12)

Round 3:

(SC, INC)*6 (18)

Round 4:

18 SC

Round 5:

(4 SC, DEC)*3 (15)

Round 6:

(3 SC, DEC)*3 (12)

Round 7:

(2 SC, DEC)*3 (9)

Round 8:

(SC, DEC)*3 (6)

Info:

Tighten hole, fix thread and hide end inside

Small Leaves (Make 3):

Green yarn

Round 1:

6 SC in MR

Round 2:

6 INC (12)

Round 3:

(SC, INC)*6 (18)

Info:

Finish with straight line, leave long end to sew

Large Leaves (Make 3-4):

Green yarn, make 3-4 details depending on cabbage size

Round 1:

6 SC in MR

Round 2:

6 INC (12)

Round 3:

(SC, INC)*6 (18)

Round 4:

(2 SC, INC)*6 (24)

Info:

Finish with straight line, leave long end to sew, first sew small leaves with overlap so upper edge slightly higher than top of base, then sew large leaves

β€” Small Carrot:

Base:

Orange yarn, stuff in process

Round 1:

6 SC in MR

Round 2:

6 SC

Round 3:

(SC, INC)*3 (9)

Round 4:

9 SC

Round 5:

(2 SC, INC)*3 (12)

Round 6-9:

4 rounds of 12 SC

Round 10:

6 DEC

Info:

Embroider strips with black thin thread through open hole, tighten hole, fix thread and hide end inside

Leaves:

Green yarn

Info:

Chain 9, start in 2nd chain from hook: 7 SC, SS

Info:

Chain 8, start in 2nd chain from hook: 7 SC, work SS in last loop of first chain

Info:

Chain 8, start in 2nd chain from hook: 7 SC, work SS in last loop of first chain

Info:

Fix thread and leave long end to sew, sew leaves on top of carrot

β€” Carrot XXL:

Base:

Orange yarn, stuff in process

Round 1:

6 SC in MR

Round 2:

(SC, INC)*3 (9)

Round 3-4:

2 rounds of 9 SC

Round 5:

(2 SC, INC)*3 (12)

Round 6-7:

2 rounds of 12 SC

Round 8:

(3 SC, INC)*3 (15)

Round 9-10:

2 rounds of 15 SC

Round 11:

(4 SC, INC)*3 (18)

Round 12-13:

2 rounds of 18 SC

Round 14:

(5 SC, INC)*3 (21)

Round 15-24:

10 rounds of 21 SC

Round 25:

10 DEC, SC (11)

Round 26:

5 DEC, don't work up to end (6)

Info:

Embroider strips with black thin thread through open hole, tighten hole, fix thread and hide end inside

Leaves XXL:

Green yarn

Info:

Chain 26, start in 2nd chain from hook: 4 SC, (chain 4, start in 2nd chain from hook: 3 SC, on base: 4 SC)*5, SS

Info:

Chain 21, start in 2nd chain from hook: 4 SC, (chain 4, start in 2nd chain from hook: 3 SC, on base: 4 SC)*4, work SS in last loop of first chain

Info:

Chain 21, start in 2nd chain from hook: 4 SC, (chain 4, start in 2nd chain from hook: 3 SC, on base: 4 SC)*4, work SS in last loop of first chain

Info:

Chain 16, start in 2nd chain from hook: 4 SC, (chain 4, start in 2nd chain from hook: 3 SC, on base: 4 SC)*3, work SS in last loop of first chain

Info:

Fix thread and leave long end to sew, sew leaves on top of carrot

β€” Tomato:

Base:

Red yarn, stuff in process

Round 1:

6 SC in MR

Round 2:

6 INC (12)

Round 3-4:

2 rounds of 12 SC

Round 5:

6 DEC (6)

Info:

Tighten hole, fix thread and hide end inside

Leaves:

Green yarn, leave long thread to sew at beginning, crocheted like carrot leaves

Info:

Chain 3, start in 2nd chain from hook: SC, SS

Info:

Chain 2, start in 2nd chain from hook: SC, work SS in last loop of first chain

Info:

Chain 2, start in 2nd chain from hook: SC, work SS in last loop of first chain

Info:

Sew leaves on top of tomato: bring initial and final threads through tightened hole to bottom, tie into several knots and hide ends inside through same hole so knot remains outside

β€” Garden Tools:

Shaft (Same for all tools):

Can insert steel or copper solid wire with insulated ends inside, NOT recommended for children under 3 years, wrap wire with patch if using, start with brown yarn

Round 1:

6 SC in MR

Round 2-33:

32 rounds of 6 SC

Round 34:

Change to grey: 6 SC

Round 35:

DEC, 4 SC (5)

Round 36-38:

3 rounds of 5 SC

Info:

At this stage can insert wire, fix thread and leave long end to sew

Shovel (Make 2 pieces):

Grey yarn, make turn and work turning CH at end of each row

Row 0:

Chain 10

Row 1:

Start in 2nd chain from hook: 9 SC

Row 2-8:

7 rows of 9 SC

Row 9:

Skip St, 6 SC, DEC (7)

Row 10:

Skip St, 4 SC, DEC (5)

Row 11:

Skip St, 2 SC, DEC (3)

Row 12:

Skip St, DEC (1)

Info:

Fix and cut thread, hide initial and end threads along one side between loops, put two details with hidden threads inside, attach thread in middle at bottom, crochet two details together with SC along contour working 3 SC in same St in corners

Info:

Finish with straight line, fix and cut thread, hide thread ends inside detail, sew shovel on shaft

Hoe:

Grey yarn, make turn and work turning CH at end of each row

Row 0:

Chain 8

Row 1:

Start in 2nd chain from hook: 7 SC

Row 2-3:

2 rows of 7 SC

Row 4:

Skip St, 4 SC, DEC (5)

Row 5:

Skip St, 2 SC, DEC (3)

Row 6:

3 SC

Row 7:

INC, SC, INC (5)

Row 8:

INC, 3 SC, INC (7)

Row 9-10:

2 rows of 7 SC

Info:

Fix and cut thread, hide initial and end threads along one side between loops, fold detail in half, crochet three sides together with SC working 3 SC in same St in corners (don't crochet bend line)

Info:

Fix thread, cut and hide thread ends inside detail, sew hoe on shaft

Rake:

Grey yarn, make turn and work turning CH at end of each row

Row 0:

Chain 12

Row 1:

Start in 2nd chain from hook: 11 SC

Row 2-4:

3 rows of 11 SC

Row 5:

Work CH, fold in half and crochet sides together: SC, (chain 4, start in 2nd chain from hook: 3 SC, on base: 3 SC)*3, chain 4, start in 2nd chain from hook: 3 SC, on base: SC

Info:

Fix thread, cut and hide thread ends inside detail, sew rake on shaft

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the muzzle on the face in the area of rounds 10-17, stuff lightly before securing completely to give dimension
  • Attach the nose on top of the muzzle above the magic ring, then embroider all facial features including eyelids, smile, whiskers and eyebrows
  • Position and sew the ears on top of the head in rounds 3-4 area, they can be angled differently for varied expressions
  • Sew the tummy piece on the body so its upper edge meets the bottom of the muzzle creating seamless transition
  • Attach arms using thread jointing technique between rounds 26-27 on body sides and rounds 19-20 on arms for posability
  • Attach legs using thread jointing between rounds 46-47 on body and at the tightened hole area on hips ensuring tight stretch
  • Sew the fluffy tail on the back of the body in rounds 46-48 area and add tuft of hair on top of head

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Always shift stitch markers to the middle of the back as instructed throughout the pattern to maintain proper alignment of increases and decreases
  • πŸ’‘Stuff the head firmly on the cheeks (sides) but keep it slightly flat in front and back for the correct triangle shape characteristic of rabbits
  • πŸ’‘Only stuff the upper portion of arms up to the elbow joint to allow proper bending and posability when attached
  • πŸ’‘Keep feet and hips relatively flat during stuffing rather than overly round for better stability when rabbit is sitting
  • πŸ’‘When thread jointing limbs, stretch the thread very tight and ensure knots hide inside the body through the same initial hole
  • πŸ’‘Steam or press the wheelbarrow pieces before assembly for cleaner edges and easier construction of this accessory
  • πŸ’‘If using wire inside garden tool handles for young children ensure it's completely wrapped in tape to prevent injury if broken

This charming Winnie Rabbit Garden Helper pattern was lovingly designed to create an entire miniature gardening world! Perfect for spring displays, gifts for garden enthusiasts, or as a delightful companion for little ones who love bunnies and vegetables. The combination of the sweet rabbit character with functional accessories like the wheelbarrow and tiny vegetables makes this pattern truly special and rewarding to complete. Every detail from the embroidered whiskers to the layered cabbage leaves brings joy to the crafting process. 🐰πŸ₯•πŸ§Ί Happy crocheting! 🌱✨

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FAQs

Can I make this pattern in different sizes?

Absolutely! The pattern provides specifications for two sizes: use 2mm hook with semi-cotton yarn for a 7.9 inch (20cm) rabbit, or use 3.5mm hook with plush yarn like Himalaya Dolphin Baby for a larger 14.6 inch (37cm) version. Just ensure you adjust your eye size accordingly (5-6mm for small, 10-12mm for large).

Do I have to make all the accessories or can I just make the rabbit?

You can absolutely make just the rabbit! The pattern is modular, so you can choose which vegetables and tools to create based on your preference. The rabbit itself is complete without accessories, but they add wonderful play value and display appeal.

What is thread jointing and why is it used for the limbs?

Thread jointing is a technique where limbs are attached using strong thread passed through the body, creating movable, poseable limbs. This allows you to position the rabbit's arms and legs in different poses, making it more lifelike and fun for display or play. The pattern includes detailed instructions with photos for this technique.

Can I use different yarn types than recommended?

Yes! The pattern suggests alternatives like YarnArt Mink, Nako Paris, or Alize Softy for the tummy and tail to add texture. For the main body, any semi-cotton yarn of similar weight will work. Just make sure to adjust your hook size to match your yarn weight and maintain appropriate tension for a firm, stuffed ami gurumi.

Is the wheelbarrow difficult to assemble?

The wheelbarrow requires patience but the pattern provides clear step-by-step assembly instructions. The key tip is to steam or iron the crocheted pieces first to make them flatter and easier to join. All parts are connected using slip stitch seams, and the pattern includes helpful photos showing each assembly stage.

Are safety eyes required or can I embroider them?

The pattern uses safety eyes (5-6mm or 10-12mm depending on size) attached with crocheted eye whites for a distinctive look. However, if making for very young children, you can absolutely embroider the eyes instead using black yarn for added safety. Just follow the same placement guidelines between rounds 9-10.

What does 'shift the stitch marker' mean in the pattern?

As you crochet in continuous rounds, the beginning of the round naturally shifts position. The pattern instructs you to realign (shift) your stitch marker to the middle of the back at certain points to ensure increases and decreases are placed correctly for proper shaping. This is especially important for the head and body symmetry.