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Plod the African Flower Triceratops Crochet Pattern

Plod the African Flower Triceratops Crochet Pattern
4.8β˜… Rating
15-20 Hours Time Needed
3.9K Made This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced knitters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

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Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour projectβ€”great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Charming Critter

Delightful animal designs with sweet details that capture the essence of your favorite woodland and farmyard friends.

About This Plod the African Flower Triceratops Crochet Pattern

Plod the Triceratops is a stunning example of modular crochet at its finest! This pattern uses the beloved African Flower motif technique to create a fully three-dimensional dinosaur friend. What makes this pattern special is the join-as-you-go method that connects 50 individual motifsβ€”hexagons, pentagons, octagons, heptagons, and squaresβ€”into a cohesive, stuffed amigurumi. The pattern includes incredibly detailed photo tutorials and charted instructions to guide you through every step, from creating your first motif to sculpting realistic eye sockets and attaching the signature triceratops neck frill and horns.

Plod the African Flower Triceratops Crochet Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Working with sock weight yarn and a 1.75mm hook, you'll create tight, dense stitches that keep stuffing secure while building an heirloom-quality piece. This is the perfect stash-busting project that transforms leftover yarn into a colorful, personality-filled dinosaur measuring 30cm long and 14cm tall.

Why You'll Love This Plod the African Flower Triceratops Crochet Pattern

I absolutely love how this pattern transforms simple motifs into something truly magical! There's something incredibly satisfying about watching Plod come to life as you join each African Flower piece, seeing the body take shape from flat motifs into a three-dimensional creature. The join-as-you-go technique might seem intimidating at first, but once you get the rhythm, it becomes almost meditative. What I adore most is the creative freedomβ€”every colorful motif you choose adds personality, making each Plod uniquely yours. The detailed sculpting instructions for the eye sockets elevate this from a simple toy to a truly realistic, professional-looking creation. Plus, using up all those leftover sock yarn scraps feels wonderfully productive and eco-friendly!

Plod the African Flower Triceratops Crochet Pattern step 1 - construction progress Plod the African Flower Triceratops Crochet Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Plod the African Flower Triceratops Crochet Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Plod the African Flower Triceratops Crochet Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love experimenting with different color schemes when making Plod! While the pattern shows a beautifully vibrant rainbow version, I've also created him in more realistic dinosaur colors - think earthy greens, browns, and tans for a museum-quality prehistoric look. One of my favorite variations was using ombre sock yarn that gradually transitioned from dark green at the feet to lighter sage at the head, creating a stunning gradient effect across the motifs.

For a truly magical twist, I once made Plod using sparkly metallic yarn for the frill and horns while keeping the body in solid jewel tones - it transformed him into a fantasy dragon-dinosaur hybrid that was absolutely enchanting! I've also experimented with using variegated self-striping sock yarn, which creates unexpected color patterns within each motif that make every single one unique and special.

If you're feeling adventurous, try making a themed Plod! I created a galaxy-themed version using deep purples, blues, and blacks with tiny silver sparkle accents throughout. For a baby shower gift, I made a pastel version in soft pinks, yellows, and mint greens that looked absolutely precious in a nursery. You could even make seasonal versions - imagine autumn Plod in oranges, reds, and golds, or a winter wonderland version in icy blues and whites with silver accents!

Another fun modification I love is varying the size by changing yarn weight. Using sport weight yarn instead of fingering creates a slightly larger, cuddlier Plod, while using thread weight creates an adorable miniature version perfect for keychains or ornaments. Just remember to adjust your hook size accordingly and maintain that tight gauge!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Not reading the entire pattern before starting, which leads to confusion about the join-as-you-go technique and motif construction order throughout the project βœ— Forgetting to count stitches carefully in Round 4, resulting in incorrect stitch counts that make joining motifs nearly impossible and frustrating βœ— Joining motifs on the wrong side or losing track of right versus wrong side orientation, creating twisted connections and misshapen body parts βœ— Stuffing too firmly or too loosely, causing the dinosaur to lose its intended shape or have stuffing peek through the stitches awkwardly βœ— Skipping the practice joining tutorial and diving straight into the project, leading to uneven joins and potential need to restart entire sections

Plod the African Flower Triceratops Crochet Pattern

Create your own adorable Plod, a charming triceratops made entirely from colorful African Flower motifs! This unique pattern combines the beauty of granny square techniques with 3D amigurumi construction to bring a prehistoric friend to life. Perfect for using up your sock yarn stash, Plod measures approximately 30cm from tail to nose and features intricate hexagons, pentagons, octagons, and more joined together with the join-as-you-go method. With detailed instructions for sculpting eye sockets and creating a magnificent neck frill, this pattern will challenge your crochet skills while delivering an absolutely stunning finished piece that's sure to become a treasured companion.

Advanced 15-20 Hours

Materials Needed for Plod the African Flower Triceratops Crochet Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sock weight/fingering/#1 weight yarn in multiple colors of your choice (approximately 170g total)
  • 02
    Superwash merino yarn recommended with approximately 320m per 100g (350 yards per 100g) yardage
  • 03
    Multi-colored yarn scraps for body hexagons, pentagons, octagon, heptagon, and square motifs
  • 04
    Multi-colored yarn for frill pentagons (10 pieces total)
  • 05
    Solid color yarn for head pentagons, hexagons, and square (7 pieces total)
  • 06
    Yarn for horns and finishing details in coordinating colors

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 1.75mm (or appropriate size for chosen yarn weight)
  • 02
    Polyester toy stuffing
  • 03
    Tapestry needle for sewing in ends
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Sewing pins
  • 06
    Sewing needle
  • 07
    Curved sewing needle
  • 08
    Long tapestry needle or doll-making needle
  • 09
    Haemostats (optional for stuffing)
  • 10
    Plastic safety eyes or glass wire-looped eyes (14mm recommended)
  • 11
    Stitch markers (recommended for tracking rounds)
  • 12
    Black felt for decorative elements (if desired)

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β€” African Flower Hexagon Motif :

Round 1 :

Ch5 and join with slip stitch to form a ring. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in ring, ch1. Then make *2 dc in ring, ch1*. Repeat from * to * 4 times more, slip stitch join to third chain of beginning ch3 of the round. Cut yarn and pull through. (6 sets of 2dc's separated by chain stitches)

Round 2 :

Join next color in the ch1 space (just to the right of the previous round's ch3 beginning) and ch3 (counts as first dc). Make a dc in that same chain space then ch1. Make 2 dc (still in the same chain space). Move on to the next chain space of the previous round, and make the following: 2 dc, ch1, 2dc in that chain space. Repeat this in each of the next 4 chain spaces. Join with slip stitch to third chain of beginning ch3 of the round. (6 clusters of [2dc,ch,2dc])

Round 3 :

Continue with the same color. Slip stitch into the chain space in the middle of the first cluster of the previous round. Ch3 (counts as first dc). Make 6 dc in same chain space (total of 7 dc's). Make 7 dc's into the chain space of the next cluster. Repeat 4 more times, so that each cluster has 7 dc's in its chain space. Join with slip stitch to the third chain of the beginning ch3 of the round. Cut yarn and pull through. (6 sets of 7 dc's)

Round 4 :

Join new color in the slip stitch of previous round's end, and ch1 (counts as a sc). Make one sc into each of the dc's of the cluster (this makes 7 sc including the ch1). Make one long dc (between clusters) that extends down into round 2 of the flower, so that it separates the round 2 clusters. *Sc into each of the 7 dc stitches of the next cluster. Make one long dc (between clusters) that extends down into round 2 of the flower, so that it separates the round 2 clusters.* Repeat from * to * four more times. Slip stitch to the beginning of the round ch1 stitch. Cut yarn and pull through. (42 sc and 6 long dc)

Round 5 :

Join next color to the slip stitch at the end of the previous round. Ch3 (counts as first dc). Make one dc into each of the next 2 sc's, then (dc, ch1, dc) into the next sc (this forms the apex of the flower petal). Then make one dc into each of the next three sc. Make one dc into the previous round's long dc stitch. *Make one dc into each of the next petal's first three sc stitches, then (dc, ch1, dc) into the next sc (this forms the apex of the petal), then make one dc into each of the next three sc. Make one dc into the previous round's long dc stitch.* Repeat from * to * four more times. Slip stitch to the third chain of the ch3 of the beginning of the round. Cut yarn and pull through. (You should have nine dc stitches between each petal apex, separated by a chain stitch, so 54 dc in all)

β€” African Flower Pentagon Motif :

Round 1 :

Ch5 and join with slip stitch to form a ring. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in ring, ch1. Then make *2 dc in ring, ch1*. Repeat from * to * 3 times more, slip stitch join to third chain of beginning ch3 of the round. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (5 sets of 2dc's separated by chain stitches)

Round 2 :

Join next color in the ch1 space (just to the right of the previous round's ch3 beginning) and ch3 (counts as first dc). Make a dc in that same chain space then ch1. Make 2 dc (still in the same chain space). Move on to the next chain space of the previous round, and make the following: 2 dc, ch1, 2dc in that chain space. Repeat this in each of the next 3 chain spaces. Join with slip stitch to third chain of beginning ch3 of the round. (5 clusters of [2dc,ch,2dc])

Round 3 :

Continue with the same color. Slip stitch into the chain space in the middle of the first cluster of the previous round. Ch3 (counts as first dc). Make 6 dc in same chain space (total of 7 dc's). Make 7 dc's into the chain space of the next cluster. Repeat 3 more times, so that each cluster has 7 dc's in its chain space. Join with slip stitch to the third chain of the beginning ch3. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (5 sets of 7 dc's)

Round 4 :

Join new color in the slip stitch of previous round's end, and ch1 (counts as a sc). Make one sc into each of the dc's of the cluster (this makes 7 sc including the ch1). Make one long dc (between clusters) that extends down into round 2 of the flower, so that it separates the round 2 clusters. *Sc into each of the 7 dc stitches of the next cluster. Make one long dc (between clusters) that extends down into round 2 of the flower, so that it separates the round 2 clusters.* Repeat from * to * three more times. Slip stitch to the beginning of the round ch1 stitch. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (35 sc and 5 long dc)

Round 5 :

Join next color to the slip stitch at the end of the previous round. Ch3 (counts as first dc). Make one dc into each of the next 2 sc's, then (dc, ch1, dc) into the next sc (this forms the apex of the flower petal). Then make one dc into each of the next three sc. Make one dc into the previous round's long dc stitch. *Make one dc into each of the next petal's first three sc stitches, then (dc, ch1, dc) into the next sc (this forms the apex of the petal), then make one dc into each of the next three sc. Make one dc into the previous round's long dc stitch.* Repeat from * to * three more times. Slip stitch to the third chain of the ch3 of the beginning of the round. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (You should have nine dc stitches between each petal apex, separated by a chain stitch, so 45 dc in all)

β€” African Flower Heptagon Motif :

Round 1 :

Ch5 and join with slip stitch to form a ring. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in ring, ch1. Then make *2 dc in ring, ch1*. Repeat from * to * 5 times more, slip stitch join to third chain of beginning ch3 of the round. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (7 sets of 2dc's separated by chain stitches)

Round 2 :

Join next color in the ch1 space (just to the right of the previous round's ch3 beginning) and ch3 (counts as first dc). Make a dc in that same chain space then ch1. Make 2 dc (still in the same chain space). Move on to the next chain space of the previous round, and make the following: 2 dc, ch1, 2dc in that chain space. Repeat this in each of the next 5 chain spaces. Join with a slip stitch to third chain of beginning ch3 of the round. (7 clusters of [2dc,ch,2dc])

Round 3 :

Continue with the same color. Slip stitch into the chain space in the middle of the first cluster of the previous round. Ch3 (counts as first dc). Make 6 dc in same chain space (total of 7 dc's). Make 7 dc's into the chain space of the next cluster. Repeat 5 more times, so that each cluster has 7 dc's in its chain space. Join with slip stitch to the third chain of the beginning ch3 of the round. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (7 sets of 7 dc's)

Round 4 :

Join new color in the slip stitch of previous round's end, and ch1 (counts as a sc). Make one sc into each of the dc's of the cluster (this makes 7 sc including the ch1). Make one long dc (between clusters) that extends down into round 2 of the flower, so that it separates the round 2 clusters. *Sc into each of the 7 dc stitches of the next cluster. Make one long dc (between clusters) that extends down into round 2 of the flower, so that it separates the round 2 clusters.* Repeat from * to * five more times. Slip stitch to the beginning of the round ch1 stitch. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (49 sc and 7 long dc)

Round 5 :

Join next color to the slip stitch at the end of the previous round. Ch3 (counts as first dc). Make one dc into each of the next 2 sc's, then (dc, ch1, dc) into the next sc (this forms the apex of the flower petal). Then make one dc into each of the next three sc. Make one dc into the previous round's long dc stitch. *Make one dc into each of the next petal's first three sc stitches, then (dc, ch1, dc) into the next sc (this forms the apex of the petal), then make one dc into each of the next three sc. Make one dc into the previous round's long dc stitch.* Repeat from * to * five more times. Slip stitch to the third chain of the ch3 of the beginning of the round. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (You should have nine dc stitches between each petal apex, separated by a chain stitch, so 63 dc in all)

β€” African Flower Octagon Motif :

Round 1 :

Ch5 and join with slip stitch to form a ring. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in ring, ch1. Then make *2 dc in ring, ch1*. Repeat from * to * 6 times more, slip stitch join to third chain of beginning ch3 of the round. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (8 sets of 2dc's separated by chain stitches)

Round 2 :

Join next color in the ch1 space (just to the right of the previous round's ch3 beginning) and ch3 (counts as first dc). Make a dc in that same chain space then ch1. Make 2 dc (still in the same chain space). Move on to the next chain space of the previous round, and make the following: 2 dc, ch1, 2dc in that chain space. Repeat this in each of the next 6 chain spaces. Join with slip stitch to third chain of beginning ch3 of the round. (8 clusters of [2dc,ch,2dc])

Round 3 :

Continue with the same color. Slip stitch into the chain space in the middle of the first cluster of the previous round. Ch3 (counts as first dc). Make 6 dc in same chain space (total of 7 dc's). Make 7 dc's into the chain space of the next cluster. Repeat 6 more times, so that each cluster has 7 dc's in its chain space. Join with slip stitch to the third chain of the beginning ch3 of the round. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (8 sets of 7 dc's)

Round 4 :

Join new color in the slip stitch of previous round's end, and ch1 (counts as a sc). Make one sc into each of the dc's of the cluster (this makes 7 sc including the ch1). Make one long dc (between clusters) that extends down into round 2 of the flower, so that it separates the round 2 clusters. *Sc into each of the 7 dc stitches of the next cluster. Make one long dc (between clusters) that extends down into round 2 of the flower, so that it separates the round 2 clusters.* Repeat from * to * six more times. Slip stitch to the beginning of the round ch1 stitch. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (56 sc and 8 long dc)

Round 5 :

Join next color to the slip stitch at the end of the previous round. Ch3 (counts as first dc). Make one dc into each of the next 2 sc's, then (dc, ch1, dc) into the next sc (this forms the apex of the flower petal). Then make one dc into each of the next three sc. Make one dc into the previous round's long dc stitch. *Make one dc into each of the next petal's first three sc stitches, then (dc, ch1, dc) into the next sc (this forms the apex of the petal), then make one dc into each of the next three sc. Make one dc into the previous round's long dc stitch.* Repeat from * to * six more times. Slip stitch to the third chain of the ch3 of the beginning of the round. Cut yarn and pull through, leaving a tail. (You should have nine dc stitches between each petal apex, separated by a chain stitch, so 72 dc's in all)

β€” African Flower Square Motif :

Info :

The square has only 4 rounds instead of 5. If using JAYG method, make the square only up to round 3 before starting JAYG, which creates Round 4 (the final round)

Round 1 :

Ch5 and join with a slip stitch to make a ring. Ch3 (counts as first dc), then make 1dc into the ring, ch1. Make *4 dc into ring, ch1*. Repeat from * to * twice more. Make 2 dc into ring and join with a slip stitch to the third chain of the ch3 of the beginning of the round. (4 sets of 4dc's separated by chain stitches)

Round 2 :

If you choose, you can join a new color yarn. Ch3 into a chain space of Round 1. If you choose not to change colors, first slip stitch into the next along chain space, then Ch3 (counts as first dc). Make 7 dc into this same chain space. Make 8dc's into each of the three remaining chain spaces of Round 1. Join with a slip stitch to the third chain of the Ch3 beginning of Round 1. (4 clusters of 8 dc's)

Round 3 :

Join a new color if you wish. Ch1 into the slip stitch of the previous round. Sc into each of the seven dc's of this cluster. Sc into each of the 8 dc's of the next cluster. Repeat for the remaining two clusters. Join with a slip stitch to the ch1 at the beginning of the round. (4 sets of 8 sc's)

Round 4 :

Join a new color yarn to the slip stitch of round 3. Ch3 (counts as first dc). Make a dc into each of the next four sc stitches. Ch1, then *make a dc into the same sc space as the previous dc. Make a dc into each of the next eight sc's from Round 3. Ch1*. Repeat from * to * two times more. Make a dc into the same sc space as the previous dc. Make a dc into each of the next three sc stitches of Round 3. Join with a slip stitch to the third chain of the ch3 at the beginning of the round. (4 sets of 9 dc's separated by 4 chain stitches, ie four 9dc repeats)

β€” Making the Feet and Belly :

Step 1 :

Complete a pentagon up to round 5. Take a second pentagon that has been made up to Round 4 and join it to the completed pentagon along THREE SIDES. The two pentagons form a pocket when opened up. Make three more feet in the same way for a total of four feet

Step 2 :

Pop open each of the feet so that you can only see half of each pentagon. Place the four opened-up feet in position

Step 3 :

Join the belly octagon. The first TWO SIDES of the belly octagon are joined to the top INNER pentagons

Step 4 :

Crochet TWO UN-JOINED SIDES on the octagon

Step 5 :

Join the octagon on TWO SIDES to the feet again. The first side is joined to the lower left inner pentagon and the second side is joined to the lower right inner pentagon

Step 6 :

Complete the remainder of the octagon's Round 5 without joining. Plod now has a tummy

β€” Joining a Full Row of Hexagons to the Body Base :

Info :

You will need 8 hexagons for this part. Open up each foot and place on your work table. You will be facing the wrong side of the belly octagon. The octagon still has FOUR FREE SIDES (two free sides at the left-hand side of the body and two free sides on at the right-hand side of the body)

Step 1 :

Join first hexagon along TWO SIDES to the body. The first side is joined to the left-hand front leg pentagon and the second side is joined to one free side of the belly octagon

Step 2 :

Join a hexagon to the body along THREE SIDES. The first side is joined to the previously-joined hexagon, then join it to the belly octagon and then finally to the left-hand hind leg pentagon

Step 3 :

Turn the work so that you are facing the bum end of the body. Join a hexagon on three sides to the body. The first side is joined to the hexagon you joined in the previous step, the second and third sides are joined to the left hind leg

Step 4 :

Join a hexagon along three sides, starting at the indicated point. The first side is joined to the hexagon you added in the previous step. The second and third sides are joined to the right hind leg

Step 5 :

Turn the work so that you are facing the Right-Hand Side of the body. Join a hexagon to the work along three sides. The first side is joined to the hexagon you added previously. Note that the third side is joined to the belly octagon

Step 6 :

Join another hexagon along three sides. The second side is joined to the belly octagon

Step 7 :

Turn the work so that you are now facing the front of the body. Join a hexagon along three sides. The first side is joined to the hexagon you added in the previous step. The 2nd and 3rd sides are joined to the right front leg pentagons

Step 8 :

Join a hexagon along four sides. The first side is joined to the hexagon you added in the previous step. The second and third sides are joined to the left front leg pentagons, and the fourth side is joined to the hexagon at the left-hand side of the body

β€” Making Plod's Tail :

Step 1 :

Turn the work so that you are facing the bum end. Join a hexagon to the V-shaped area between the two bum hexagons along two sides

Step 2 :

Join a pentagon along one side of the pentagon you added in the previous step

Step 3 :

Join a pentagon along one side

Step 4 :

Crochet the remainder of round 5 without joining

Step 5 :

Join a pentagon to the tail end along two sides

Step 6 :

Join a pentagon to the tail along one side (to the previously added pentagon)

Step 7 :

Continue to crochet ONE un-joined side. The next joined side is to the hexagon at the right-hand side of the bum

Step 8 :

Turn the work so that you are facing the left hand side of the body. Continue to join the pentagon to the tail end along a further three sides

β€” Making the Rest of the Body :

Step 1 :

Join a hexagon to the work along three sides on the right-hand side of the body

Step 2 :

Join a pentagon to the work along three sides

Step 3 :

Join a hexagon to the work along three sides

Step 4 :

Turn the work to face the left hand side of the body. Join a hexagon to the body along three sides

Step 5 :

Join a pentagon along three sides

Step 6 :

Join a pentagon along three sides. The left side of the body is done

β€” Making the Top of the Body :

Step 1 :

Place the work so that you are facing the top of the body with the tail at the top. Join a hexagon to the back along four sides

Step 2 :

Join another hexagon along four sides

Step 3 :

Join an adjacent hexagon along five sides

Step 4 :

Join a heptagon along four sides. There are three free sides remaining on the heptagon

β€” Stuffing :

Info :

Start with small tufts of stuffing, and stuff the tail and hind legs first. Make sure that the legs are equally stuffed, shape and firmness being considered. Add small tufts of stuffing to the body, being careful to distribute the stuffing evenly between the left and right hand sides of the body. When you have reached the middle of the body, stuff the front legs. Continue to stuff the rest of the body, always using small bits of stuffing and not big handfuls. Make sure to leave enough room for you to still be able to crochet the head motifs to the body

β€” Making the Head :

Step 1 :

Face the front of the body. Join a hexagon to the V-shaped area between the two front legs along two sides. The first side is joined to the right front leg and the second side is joined to the left front leg

Step 2 :

Join a hexagon to the Right-hand side of the head along three sides, starting the first joining side to the heptagon

Step 3 :

Join a hexagon to the Left-hand side of the head along three sides, starting the first joining side to the one-color hexagon you joined in the first step of making the head

Step 4 :

Still facing the front of the body but looking slightly from above, join a square to the head along three sides

Step 5 :

Join a pentagon to the top of the head along three sides. The second side is joined to the square

Step 6 :

Face the Right-hand side of the head. Join a pentagon to the head along three sides

Step 7 :

Face the Left-hand side of the body. Join the final pentagon along ALL SIDES. When you have two sides left over to still join, carefully stuff the remainder of the head and neck, making sure the stuffing is even and symmetrically placed. Complete the joining

β€” Completing the Tail :

Info :

There is a little opening left at the tip of the tail. This was purposely left until last so that you could still place a little stuffing into the tail end. Stuff the tail so that you have a nice, pleasing shape. Note there are two sides remaining at this end

Step 1 :

Join a square motif to the tail tip along the two remaining sides. Start by joining the square to the first side (which is at the left-hand side of the body). Turn the work so that you are facing the right hand side of the body and tail end. Continue to join the square along the second side

Step 2 :

Complete the square, not joining any further. There will be a short opening between the two un-joined sides of the completed square. Stuff the tip of the tail and then sew the opening closed using spare yarn and a tapestry needle

β€” Making and Attaching the Neck Frill :

Info :

The neck frill is made up of ten pentagons. The front side of the neck frill has five pentagons and the back side also has five pentagons. Each row of five pentagons are joined along one side to each other. You can either complete all ten pentagons up to round 5 and sew five of them together or use the JAYG method (in which case you'll complete one pentagon and then join the remaining four, one at a time, along one side)

Step 1 :

Complete the two rows of the neck frill (5 pentagons each). Place them together, wrong side facing. Starting at one end, crochet them together using a dc, making sure that you slip your crochet hook under all four loops of the two stitches you are crocheting together (2 loops per stitch from each side). Continue to join all around

Step 2 :

Sew the frill to the neck area along the bottom edge. Using a curved sewing needle will make things easier. You will only sew the frill to the body along the bottom edge of the frill

β€” Sculpting the Eye Sockets and Attaching the Eyes :

Step 1 :

Take a length of yarn around a meter long (around a yard) and fold in half so that the two ends are placed together. Thread these two ends into the eye of a long tapestry needle or doll making needle

Step 2 :

Insert the needle at the left eye area and push the needle all the way through the head, exiting at the right eye area. Pull the yarn through the head, leaving a small loop at the left eye

Step 3 :

Re-insert the needle into the right eye area just next to where your needle exited, and push across the head back to the left eye area, again exiting slightly adjacent to where you initially inserted the needle, putting the needle through the yarn loop

Step 4 :

Pull up the yarn gently and you will see the eye sockets indent. Don't pull too hard or the eyes will be placed too close together

Step 5 :

Thread the needle through the wire loop of the glass eye. Re-insert the needle into the centre of the left eye motif and push through the head to the right eye centre. Before you pull the yarn all the way through, use pointed nose pliers to pinch the wire loop narrower (this allows it to be pulled into the head more easily). Give a gentle tug on the yarn to sink the eye into the head

Step 6 :

Repeat the process for the right eye. Thread the needle and yarn through the right eye wire loop, re-insert the needle into the same hole that the needle exited from, and again, pinch the wire loop narrower, and push the needle all the way to the left eye, exiting under the left eye, just to the side of where the wire loop sits. Give a gentle tug on the yarn and see the right eye sink into the head. Make a triple stitch under the left eye to anchor the yarn and snip. The eyes are done

β€” Making and Attaching the Horns :

Large Horn (make 2) :

Making sure to leave a long tail, Ch12. Join in the round with a slip stitch into the first ch. You will be working in a spiral from now on, NOT in rounds. Make a sc into each of the next 24 sts. *Sc into each of the next two stitches, then make a sc decrease. Repeat two more times from * (three decreases in total). Crochet a sc into each stitch until you have worked in a spiral for a total of 50 sts. **Make a sc into each of the next two sts, then crochet a sc decrease. Repeat from ** two more times. Sc into each of the next 12 sts. Crochet two sc decreases. Cut the yarn and pull through the last stitch. Use a tapestry needle to draw the tail through the remaining stitches and pull tight to close the hole. Lightly stuff the horn using polyester stuffing

Small Horn (make 1) :

Making sure to leave a long tail, Ch12. Join in the round with a slip stitch into the first ch. You will be working in a spiral from now on, NOT in rounds. Make a sc into each of the next 24 sts. *Sc into each of the next two stitches, then make a sc decrease. Repeat two more times from * (three decreases in total). Crochet a sc into each stitch until you have worked in a spiral for a total of 20 sts. **Make a sc into each of the next two sts, then crochet a sc decrease. Repeat from ** two more times. Sc into each of the next 12 sts. Cut the yarn and pull through the last stitch. Use a tapestry needle to draw the tail through the remaining stitches and pull tight to close the hole. Lightly stuff the horn using polyester stuffing

Attaching Horns :

Thread the tail end of yarn through a tapestry needle and sew the horns to the head around the base of each, making sure they are firmly attached. Place two larger horns on the top part of the head and one smaller horn on the lower part of the head

Assembly Instructions

  • Begin by creating all four feet using two pentagons joined on three sides each, forming pocket-shaped structures that will support the body
  • Attach the belly octagon to the four feet following the specific joining sequence outlined in the pattern, ensuring proper alignment of sides
  • Join eight hexagons around the body base in the exact order specified, working from front to back and side to side systematically
  • Construct the tail section by joining hexagons and pentagons in sequence, leaving the tip unfinished until final stuffing stage is complete
  • Add remaining body hexagons and pentagons to build up the sides and top of the dinosaur, following anatomical left and right placement carefully
  • Stuff the body evenly using small tufts of polyester filling, working from tail to legs to torso, maintaining symmetrical firmness throughout
  • Complete the head by joining hexagons, pentagons, and square motifs in specified order, stuffing carefully before closing the final pentagon on all sides
  • Finish the tail by joining and stuffing the square motif at the tip, then sewing the small opening closed securely
  • Create two five-pentagon strips for the neck frill, crochet them together along all edges, then sew to neck area along bottom edge only
  • Sculpt eye sockets using yarn threaded through the head, attach safety or glass eyes securely, ensuring proper depth and positioning
  • Crochet three horns (two large, one small) following spiral instructions, stuff lightly, and sew firmly to head in triangular arrangement characteristic of triceratops

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Read the entire pattern thoroughly before beginning - understanding the join-as-you-go technique and motif construction sequence is critical to success
  • πŸ’‘Practice the join-as-you-go method on scrap yarn motifs before starting the actual project to avoid frustration and wasted materials
  • πŸ’‘Maintain consistent tension throughout all motifs - size variations will make joining difficult and affect the final shape of your dinosaur
  • πŸ’‘Use the smallest hook size you can manage comfortably with your chosen yarn to create tight, dense stitches that prevent stuffing from showing through
  • πŸ’‘Always work with the right side of motifs facing you when joining, and carefully track which sides have been joined using the pattern's color-coded system
  • πŸ’‘Count stitches carefully in Round 4 to ensure you have exactly seven single crochets between long double crochet posts for proper joining alignment
  • πŸ’‘Stuff gradually with small tufts rather than large handfuls, distributing filling evenly between left and right sides to maintain symmetrical shape
  • πŸ’‘If making this toy for children, embroider eyes instead of using attached safety eyes to eliminate choking and suffocation hazards completely
  • πŸ’‘Heptagons and octagons are supposed to curl naturally - this is intentional design and will resolve itself during assembly and stuffing
  • πŸ’‘Leave adequate workspace and use pins to position motifs before final joining or sewing to ensure proper alignment and professional-looking results

This stunning Plod the Triceratops pattern showcases the incredible beauty of modular African Flower crochet at its finest! Designed for adventurous crocheters ready to tackle an impressive 3D project, this pattern transforms 50 individual colorful motifs into a charming prehistoric companion. The detailed photo tutorials and comprehensive instructions guide you through every join, from constructing sturdy feet to sculpting realistic eye sockets. Whether you're a dedicated granny square enthusiast or looking to expand your amigurumi skills with an innovative technique, Plod offers the perfect blend of challenge and reward. The result is a truly heirloom-quality piece that will be treasured for generations! πŸ¦–πŸ§Άβœ¨

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FAQs

Can I use a different yarn weight for this pattern?

Yes, you can use heavier yarn with a correspondingly larger hook, but your finished dinosaur will be bigger than the 30cm size. Make sure to use the smallest hook size you can manage for your chosen yarn weight to maintain tight stitch density that prevents stuffing from showing through. Always make a test motif first to check gauge and adjust accordingly.

Do I have to use the join-as-you-go method or can I sew the motifs together instead?

You have the option to do either! If you prefer sewing, complete all motifs through Round 5 and then sew them together following the same placement order and side connections shown in the pattern. However, the join-as-you-go method creates stronger, more secure connections that better contain the stuffing, which is why it's recommended for this stuffed 3D project.

How many different motif shapes do I need to learn to make?

You'll need to master five different African Flower motif variations: hexagons (6 sides), pentagons (5 sides), heptagons (7 sides), octagons (8 sides), and squares (4 sides). The good news is that the construction method is virtually identical for all of them - the only difference is the number of petal repeats you crochet, making them equally easy once you understand the basic technique.

Why do my heptagons and octagons keep curling up?

This is completely normal and intentional! The pattern specifically mentions that heptagons and octagons are supposed to curl as part of the design. This natural cupping helps create the three-dimensional shape of the dinosaur's body. The curling will work itself out during assembly and stuffing, so don't try to force them flat.

How do I know which color combinations to use for my dinosaur?

The pattern is extremely flexible with color choices! You can make Plod in realistic dinosaur colors, rainbow bright combinations, or use up your leftover sock yarn scraps for a truly unique multicolored creation. The body uses multicolored motifs while the head is typically made in a solid color, but you're free to customize as you wish - that's part of the creative fun!

Is this pattern suitable for children's toys?

The finished dinosaur can be made child-safe with proper modifications. Instead of using attached safety eyes or glass eyes (which pose choking and suffocation hazards), embroider the eyes using embroidery thread. The pattern still recommends sculpting the eye sockets first for a realistic look before embroidering. Ensure all parts are securely sewn and stuffed properly for durability.

What does it mean to match 'petal apex to petal apex' when joining?

The petal apex is the point at the top of each flower petal where you crochet (dc, ch1, dc) into the same stitch space - essentially the highest point of the petal. When joining motifs, you align these apex points so they meet perfectly, creating a seamless connection. This is why having exactly 9 double crochets between each apex is crucial for proper alignment.

Can I make Plod without the neck frill to simplify the project?

While you technically could omit the neck frill, it's one of the signature features that makes this creature distinctly a triceratops! The frill is actually quite straightforward to make - just ten pentagons joined in two rows of five, then crocheted together and sewn on. It adds tremendous visual impact and character, so it's worth including for the full Plod experience.