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Mimic Treasure Chest Amigurumi Pattern

Mimic Treasure Chest Amigurumi Pattern
3.9★Rating
8-10 HoursTime Needed
1.8KMade This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

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All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Charming Critter

Delightful animal designs with sweet details that capture the essence of your favorite woodland and farmyard friends.

About This Mimic Treasure Chest Amigurumi Pattern

Mimic Treasure Chest Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This project is the perfect gift for the dungeon master or fantasy lover in your life. It looks fantastic displayed on a bookshelf or sitting at the center of a gaming table during your next big campaign adventure.

Why You'll Love This Mimic Treasure Chest Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love how the plastic canvas transforms soft crochet into a solid, tactile object. There's something so satisfying about the way the lid hinges open to reveal that toothy grin. Plus, the invisible finish technique makes the eyeball look incredibly clean and lifelike!

Mimic Treasure Chest Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Mimic Treasure Chest Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Mimic Treasure Chest Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Mimic Treasure Chest Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I’ve always felt that the best crochet projects are the ones that tell a bit of a story, and this mimic is definitely one of those! I first designed this because my D&D group needed a place to store their 'jail' dice, and what better place than a monster masquerading as a chest?

The construction might look a bit daunting at first because of all the flat panels, but trust me, the plastic canvas is your best friend here. It gives the chest that satisfying, rigid feel that you just can't get with stuffing alone. When you’re working on the lid, make sure to use the more flexible canvas so it gets that nice, classic treasure chest curve.

One of my favorite parts is the secret eye. It’s tucked away behind the latch, so it only peeks out when you’re ready to reveal the mimic’s true nature. If you’re feeling extra fancy, using a bit of wire in the tongue and the brace makes the whole thing poseable. It’s these little touches that turn a simple project into something really special. I hope you have as much fun bringing this toothy friend to life as I did!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ If you work your slip stitch borders too tightly in Round 9a, the edges of your rectangles will curl inward and won't line up correctly during assembly.✗ Using a stiff plastic canvas for the top piece will make it impossible to get that iconic curved lid shape; ensure you use a flexible version for the lid specifically.✗ When sewing the mouth bucket into the chest, it's easy to misalign the corners—mark the center of each piece with a stitch marker before you start joining them.✗ Forgetting to leave long yarn tails on each piece will make the final assembly much harder, as you'll have to join new yarn for every single seam.

Mimic Treasure Chest Amigurumi Pattern

Get ready to create the ultimate tabletop gaming companion! This mimic isn't just a monster; it's a fully functional treasure chest that's perfect for guarding your favorite set of dice. You'll use structured techniques like plastic canvas to give it a sturdy, professional feel, and the hidden eyeball detail adds a wonderful layer of mystery. It's a rewarding project that combines classic crochet with clever assembly to bring a bit of fantasy to your craft room.

Advanced 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Mimic Treasure Chest Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn in a rich brown for the main chest panels
  • 02
    Gold or yellow worsted yarn for the decorative trim and handles
  • 03
    Dark red yarn for the interior mouth lining
  • 04
    Light pink yarn for the long, poseable tongue
  • 05
    White yarn for the teeth and parts of the eye
  • 06
    Small amounts of black, silver, green, or purple for custom color accents

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.75mm (F) crochet hook
  • 02
    One sheet of 7-count plastic canvas
  • 03
    Small amount of polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 04
    Yarn needle and sewing thread
  • 05
    Optional 10-14 gauge wire for a poseable tongue and brace
  • 06
    Optional small buttons for the latch detail
  • 07
    Stitch markers or safety pins

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Short Side (Make 2) :

Info :

Start with your brown yarn for the main chest body.

Row 1 :

ch10, then sc in the second chain from the hook and across (9)

Row 2-8 :

ch1, turn your work, and sc in every stitch across (9)

Info :

Fasten off and turn the piece. Reattach your gold trim yarn at the corner to begin the border in BLO.

Round 9a :

Working in BLO, slst around the entire rectangle, making sure to ch2 at each corner to allow for the turn (38)

Round 9b :

Working in BLO, sc in every stitch around, placing an inc into each of the ch2 corner spaces (42)

Info :

Fasten off and leave a long gold tail for sewing.

— 2. Long Side (Make 2) :

Row 1 :

ch13, then sc in the second chain from the hook and across (12)

Row 2-8 :

ch1, turn your work, and sc in every stitch across (12)

Round 9a :

Reattach gold yarn at the corner. Working in BLO, slst around the piece with a ch2 at each corner (44)

Round 9b :

Working in BLO, sc around the piece, placing an inc into each ch2 corner space (48)

Info :

Fasten off and leave a long tail for assembly.

— 3. Bottom Panel (Make 1) :

Row 1 :

ch13, then sc in the second chain from the hook and across (12)

Row 2-9 :

ch1, turn your work, and sc in every stitch across (12)

Round 10a :

Reattach gold yarn at the corner. Working in BLO, slst around the rectangle with a ch2 at each corner (46)

Round 10b :

Working in BLO, sc around the piece, placing an inc into each ch2 corner space (50)

Info :

Fasten off and leave a tail. Mark this piece as the bottom so you don't confuse it with the long sides.

— 4. Top Lid Panel (Make 1) :

Row 1 :

ch13, then sc in the second chain from the hook and across (12)

Row 2-16 :

ch1, turn your work, and sc in every stitch across (12)

Round 17a :

Reattach gold yarn at the corner. Working in BLO, slst around the rectangle with a ch2 at each corner (60)

Round 17b :

Working in BLO, sc around the piece, placing an inc into each ch2 corner space (64)

Info :

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

— 5. Top Side (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

Work 3 sc into a magic ring (3)

Round 2 :

ch1, turn, and inc in every stitch across (6)

Round 3 :

ch1, turn, *1 sc, inc* repeat across (9)

Round 4 :

ch1, turn, *2 sc, inc* repeat across (12)

Round 5 :

ch1, turn, *3 sc, inc* repeat across (15)

Round 6a :

Turn and reattach gold yarn. Using BLO, slst across the curved edge (15)

Round 6b :

Without turning, work in BLO and repeat *4 sc, inc* across (18)

— 6. Handles (Make 2) :

Row 1 :

ch8, start in second chain: 2 sc, 3 consecutive inc, 2 sc (10)

Info :

Fasten off and leave a tail for attaching to the chest sides.

— 7. Mouth Top :

Row 1 :

Using red yarn, ch14, then sc in the second chain from the hook and across (13)

Row 2-15 :

ch1, turn, and sc in every stitch across (13)

Info :

Fasten off. Now you will work the sides directly onto the raw edges of this panel.

Side 1 Row 1 :

Attach red yarn to the raw edge and sc 15 across (15)

Side 1 Row 2 :

ch1, turn, 3 dec, 3 sc, 3 dec (9)

Side 1 Row 3 :

ch1, turn, 2 dec, 1 sc, 2 dec (5)

Side 1 Row 4 :

ch1, turn, 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec (3)

Info :

Repeat rows 1-4 of the side instructions on the opposite raw edge of the panel. This will cause the piece to curl.

— 8. Mouth Bottom :

Round 1 :

ch5, starting in third chain: 2 sc, 3 sc in the last ch, rotate to work other side of chain, 2 sc, 3 sc in the starting ch space (10)

Round 2 :

2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, 3 inc (16)

Round 3 :

3 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc (24)

Round 4 :

4 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc (32)

Round 5 :

5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc (40)

Round 6-9 :

sc in every stitch around (40)

Round 10 :

6 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc (48)

Round 11-15 :

sc in every stitch around (48)

Round 16 :

In BLO: 11 hdc, {1 hdc, ch1, 1 hdc}, 9 hdc, {1 hdc, ch1, 1 hdc}, 13 hdc, {1 hdc, ch1, 1 hdc}, 9 hdc, {1 hdc, ch1, 1 hdc}, 2 hdc

— 9. Long Brace :

Round 1 :

Using gold yarn, ch32. Starting in second ch: 30 sc, {1 sc, ch1, 1 sc, ch1, 1 sc} in the last ch, then 30 sc along the other side (63)

— 10. Keyhole :

Round 1 :

Work 6 sc into a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

inc in every stitch around (12)

Round 3 :

*1 sc, inc* repeat around (18)

Info :

Embroider a black keyhole shape in the center.

— 11. Eyeball :

Round 1 :

Using red yarn, work 5 sc into a magic ring (5)

Round 2 :

inc in every stitch around (10)

Round 3a :

Switch to white. In BLO, slst around (10)

Round 3b :

Working through the BLO of both the white and red rounds, repeat *1 sc, inc* around (15)

— 12. Teeth :

Row 1 :

Using white, ch22. Starting in second ch: slst, then repeat *[ch3, slst in second ch, 1 sc in next ch], slst in next 2 ch* across

Row 2 :

Switch to pink. Work along the opposite side of the chain: *BLO slst, slst, sc* repeat across (22)

— 13. Tongue :

Row 1 :

Using pink, ch32. Starting in second ch: 30 sc, {1 sc, ch2, 1 sc} in the last ch, 30 sc along other side (62)

Row 2 :

ch1, turn, 31 sc, {4 sc} in the ch2 space, 31 sc along the other side (66)

Info :

Using red yarn, reattach at the base center and slst through the tongue up to the tip to create a detail line.

Assembly Instructions

  • Cut your plastic canvas pieces to match the measurements of your crocheted panels, making sure they are slightly smaller to allow for sewing into the back bars.
  • Lay out the bottom and four side panels in a cross formation and whip stitch them together through the back loops only to form the lower box of the chest.
  • Insert the red mouth bucket into the bottom box, pressing it firmly into the corners and sewing it to either the back bars of the crochet or the plastic canvas.
  • Construct the lid by sewing the two semi-circle top sides to the long top panel, using a hair tie to hold the curve in place while you stitch.
  • Attach the teeth strip along the seam where the mouth meets the chest head, then sew the tongue to the back center of the mouth interior.
  • Hinge the lid to the back of the bottom box by sewing along one long edge using the back loops only.
  • Attach the long brace over the center of the chest, then sew the keyhole and eyeball assembly to the end of the brace so it can flip upward.

Important Notes

  • 💡Always use an invisible finish when completing rounds on the eyeball and keyhole for a seamless, professional look.
  • 💡Keep your slip stitch border rounds loose; if they are too tight, they will pull the fabric and make the chest panels warp.
  • 💡When using plastic canvas, sewing thread is often easier and less bulky than yarn for attaching the canvas to the crochet pieces.
  • 💡If you want a poseable mimic, insert your wire between the crochet fabric and the plastic canvas before closing the seams.
  • 💡The mouth bucket is designed to be slightly larger than the box; 'mush' it into place for a realistic, fleshy look.
  • 💡Mark your 'Bottom' panel clearly with a scrap of yarn, as it is very similar in size to the 'Long Side' panels.

You've done it! You've brought a legendary mimic to life. This project is a true testament to your skill, blending structural assembly with detailed amigurumi work. Whether he's guarding your d20s or just sitting on your desk looking menacingly cute, he's sure to be a conversation starter. I hope you enjoyed the process of building this little monster as much as I did. Don't forget to share your finished mimic with your gaming group—just warn them not to get too close to those teeth! Happy crafting, and may all your rolls be natural 20s! 🧶🎲✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Can I make this mimic without the plastic canvas?

You can, but the chest will be very soft and 'squishy.' It won't hold the sharp rectangular shape shown in the photos, and the lid may not stay open or closed properly without that internal structure.

What should I do if my mouth bucket feels too tall for the box?

Crochet tension can vary! If the red mouth part is poking out too much, simply remove one or two rounds of the plain sc rounds (Rounds 6-9 or 11-15) before finishing the piece.

Is the wire necessary for the tongue?

Not at all! The wire just makes the tongue poseable. If you're making this as a toy for a child, I recommend skipping the wire entirely and just letting the tongue flop naturally for safety.

How do I make the lid stay closed?

The pattern includes an optional button loop on the keyhole. You can sew a small button onto the front of the chest so the brace can 'lock' the lid shut.