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Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern

Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern
4.5★ Rating
25-35 Hours Time Needed
1.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic knitting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Layered Comfort

Perfect for cozy, stylish layering through changing seasons with versatile, mix-and-match potential.

About This Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern

This Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan combines the mesmerizing corner-to-corner crochet technique with stunning wearable fashion. The pattern creates a beautiful 69x69 block square featuring a majestic lion design in claret red and gold colors, which is then transformed into a comfortable cocoon-style cardigan. The design uses a modified C2C technique with half double crochet stitches instead of traditional double crochet, allowing for more detailed pixel work and a lighter, more mobile finished garment.

Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Once you complete the graphgan square, you'll assemble it into a stylish cardigan with ribbed sleeves and a elegant collar using front post and back post double crochet stitches. The cocoon style drapes beautifully and provides comfortable warmth without restricting movement.

Why You'll Love This Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines two of my favorite crochet techniques—graphgans and wearable fashion. There's something incredibly satisfying about watching the lion's face emerge row by row as you work diagonally across the fabric. I appreciate how the designer modified the traditional C2C technique to use half double crochet stitches, which creates a lighter, more flexible fabric perfect for clothing. The color-changing process is meditative, and seeing those bold red and gold blocks come together to form such a striking image is truly rewarding. Plus, once you complete the graphgan square, transforming it into a cocoon cardigan is surprisingly straightforward. I love how the ribbed texture on the sleeves and collar adds a professional finishing touch, making this piece look like something you'd find in a boutique rather than a handmade project.

Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern step 1 - construction progress Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this Lion Graphgan pattern can be with just a few creative tweaks. While the original uses stunning claret red and gold, I've experimented with different color combinations that completely transform the mood of the cardigan. Try deep navy and silver for an elegant evening look, or earth tones like chocolate brown and cream for a more subtle, bohemian vibe. Forest green and burnt orange create a beautiful autumn aesthetic that's perfect for fall wardrobes.

If you want to personalize the design even further, consider adding decorative buttons down one side of the cocoon opening, or work a contrasting color stripe along the collar and sleeve cuffs for extra visual interest. I've also found that adding fringe or tassels to the bottom corners creates a fun, playful element that moves beautifully when you walk.

For those who find the full lion design intimidating, you could simplify it to just the lion's face portion by working fewer rows, creating a smaller lap blanket or wall hanging instead. Or challenge yourself by enlarging the graph and creating a full-sized blanket version. The ribbed collar technique works wonderfully on other projects too—I've used it to finish cowls and infinity scarves with professional-looking results. Don't be afraid to make this pattern your own and let your creativity roar!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not tying in ends as you go leads to overwhelming finishing work with hundreds of yarn tails to weave in at once ✗ Using the wrong hook size creates stiff fabric that doesn't drape properly for comfortable wearable garment construction ✗ Losing track of row placement on the graph results in incorrect color placement and distorted lion image design ✗ Forgetting to change color placement technique between even and odd rows causes messy yarn ends showing on right side

Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern

Transform your crochet skills into wearable art with this stunning Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan. This unique pattern combines the beautiful corner-to-corner technique with a majestic lion design, creating a cozy cardigan that's both fashionable and comfortable. The intricate graphgan features a detailed lion motif in rich claret red and vibrant gold colors, worked diagonally to create a mesmerizing visual effect. Perfect for intermediate crocheters looking to expand their skills beyond traditional blankets, this pattern guides you through creating a stylish cocoon-style cardigan with ribbed sleeves and a sophisticated collar finish.

Intermediate 25-35 Hours

Materials Needed for Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Loops & Threads Impeccable in Claret (red), approximately 5 skeins
  • 02
    Loops & Threads Impeccable in Gold, approximately 3 skeins

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Size US J (6mm) crochet hook
  • 02
    Tapestry (yarn) needle
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers (optional but helpful)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Part I: The Graphgan

Row 1 :

ch4, hdc in 3rd chain from hook, hdc in next (and last) chain (1 block)

Row 2 :

ch4, turn. Hdc in 3rd chain from hook, hdc in next (and last) chain. Slst into the chain space created in row 1 (1st block of this row is now done). Ch2, hdc2 into the chain space (2nd block of the row done) (2 blocks)

Row 3 :

ch4, turn. Hdc in 3rd chain from hook, hdc in next (and last) chain (1st block of this row done). Slst into the chain space created by the 2nd block of row 2. Ch2, hdc2 into the chain space (2nd block of this row done). Slst into the chain space created by the 1st block of row 2. Ch2, hdc2 into the chain space (3rd block of this row done) (3 blocks)

Rows 4-27 :

Continue small C2C pattern in color A until row 27 (until there are 27 block points on the most recently finished row)

Info :

Color changes start now. For even rows, keep yarn ends to the front (the wrong side). For odd rows, keep yarn ends to the back (the right side). Sew in ends after each row. Even number sides begin on the bottom/left and end on the right/top. Odd number sides begin on the right/top and end on the bottom/left

Row 28 :

5 blocks in color A, 1 block in color B, 22A to end (28 blocks)

Row 29 :

22A, 2B, 5A to end (29 blocks)

Row 30 :

5A, 2B, 23A to end (30 blocks)

Row 31 :

23A, 3B, 5A to end (31 blocks)

Row 32 :

5A, 3B, 25A to end (32 blocks)

Row 33 :

25A, 2B, 6A to end (33 blocks)

Row 34 :

6A, 3B, 25A to end (34 blocks)

Row 35 :

26A, 2B, 7A to end (35 blocks)

Row 36 :

7A, 3B, 26A to end (36 blocks)

Row 37 :

27A, 2B, 8A to end (37 blocks)

Row 38 :

8A, 3B, 27A to end (38 blocks)

Row 39 :

28A, 2B, 9A to end (39 blocks)

Row 40 :

4A, 1B, 4A, 3B, 28A to end (40 blocks)

Row 41 :

28A, 3B, 4A, 2B, 4A to end (41 blocks)

Row 42 :

4A, 2B, 4A, 4B, 28A to end (42 blocks)

Row 43 :

28A, 4B, 4A, 3B, 4A to end (43 blocks)

Row 44 :

4A, 3B, 4A, 6B, 27A to end (44 blocks)

Row 45 :

27A, 6B, 4A, 3B, 5A to end (45 blocks)

Row 46 :

5A, 3B, 4A, 7B, 14A, 2B, 11A to end (46 blocks)

Row 47 :

11A, 3B, 13A, 7B, 4A, 3B, 6A to end (47 blocks)

Row 48 :

6A, 3B, 6A, 6B, 12A, 3B, 12A to end (48 blocks)

Row 49 :

12A, 4B, 12A, 6B, 5A, 3B, 7A to end (49 blocks)

Row 50 :

8A, 3B, 5A, 6B, 11A, 4B, 13A to end (50 blocks)

Row 51 :

14A, 3B, 11A, 7B, 4A, 3B, 9A to end (51 blocks)

Row 52 :

9A, 4B, 3A, 8B, 10A, 4B, 14A to end (52 blocks)

Row 53 :

15A, 3B, 11A, 7B, 2A, 5B, 10A to end (53 blocks)

Row 54 :

11A, 5B, 1A, 8B, 10A, 3B, 10A to end (54 blocks)

Row 55 :

16A, 3B, 10A, 14B, 12A to end (55 blocks)

Row 56 :

12A, 15B, 9A, 3B, 17A to end (56 blocks)

Row 57 :

18A, 3B, 5A, 18B, 13A to end (57 blocks)

Row 58 :

14A, 20B, 2A, 3B, 19A to end (58 blocks)

Row 59 :

20A, 24B, 15A to end (59 blocks)

Row 60 :

17A, 23B, 20A to end (60 blocks)

Row 61 :

21A, 22B, 18A to end (61 blocks)

Row 62 :

19A, 22B, 21A to end (62 blocks)

Row 63 :

21A, 22B, 20A to end (63 blocks)

Row 64 :

20A, 24B, 20A to end (64 blocks)

Row 65 :

20A, 25B, 20A to end (65 blocks)

Row 66 :

20A, 2B, 1A, 23B, 20A to end (66 blocks)

Row 67 :

20A, 23B, 2A, 1B, 21A to end (67 blocks)

Row 68 :

21A, 2B, 3A, 23B, 19A to end (68 blocks)

Row 69 :

18A, 23B, 5A, 1B, 22A to end (69 blocks - This is the biggest row)

Info :

The remaining rows are decreases. Instead of ch4, hdc2 at the start of each row, to start a new row: (no chain) turn, slst3 across the last block from the previous row into the chain space, then ch2 hdc2 in the chain space as normal, and finish the rest of the row as normal as well

Row 70 :

21A, 2B, 6A, 23B, 16A (68 blocks total wide)

Row 71 :

15A, 6B, 2A, 15B, 6A, 2B, 21A (67 blocks)

Row 72 :

21A, 2B, 7A, 13B, 3A, 6B, 14A (66 blocks)

Row 73 :

13A, 6B, 3A, 13B, 7A, 2B, 21A (65 blocks)

Row 74 :

21A, 2B, 7A, 13B, 4A, 4B, 13A (64 blocks)

Row 75 :

12A, 4B, 5A, 12B, 7A, 2B, 21A (63 blocks)

Row 76 :

21A, 2B, 7A, 12B, 5A, 2B, 13A (62 blocks)

Row 77 :

18A, 1B, 1A, 11B, 7A, 2B, 21A (61 blocks)

Row 78 :

21A, 2B, 6A, 11B, 1A, 2B, 17A (60 blocks)

Row 79 :

16A, 14B, 6A, 2B, 21A (59 blocks)

Row 80 :

21A, 2B, 6A, 13B, 16A (58 blocks)

Row 81 :

16A, 12B, 6A, 2B, 21A (57 blocks)

Row 82 :

21A, 1B, 6A, 13B, 15A (56 blocks)

Row 83 :

12A, 2B, 2A, 11B, 6A, 1B, 21A (55 blocks)

Row 84 :

21A, 1B, 6A, 11B, 2A, 3B, 10A (54 blocks)

Row 85 :

10A, 3B, 1A, 12B, 5A, 1B, 21A (53 blocks)

Row 86 :

20A, 1B, 6A, 16B, 9A (52 blocks)

Row 87 :

9A, 16B, 5A, 1B, 20A (51 blocks)

Row 88 :

20A, 1B, 5A, 15B, 9A (50 blocks)

Row 89 :

9A, 14B, 5A, 1B, 20A (49 blocks)

Row 90 :

24A, 16B, 8A (48 blocks)

Row 91 :

9A, 15B, 4A, 1B, 19A (47 blocks)

Row 92 :

24A, 14B, 8A (46 blocks)

Row 93 :

7A, 14B, 5A, 1B, 18A (45 blocks)

Row 94 :

12A, 1B, 4A, 1B, 4A, 15B, 7A (44 blocks)

Row 95 :

6A, 15B, 4A, 2B, 3A, 1B, 12A (43 blocks)

Row 96 :

12A, 1B, 2A, 2B, 6A, 13B, 6A (42 blocks)

Row 97 :

5A, 13B, 6A, 6B, 11A (41 blocks)

Row 98 :

11A, 5B, 5A, 14B, 5A (40 blocks)

Row 99 :

4A, 14B, 5A, 5B, 11A (39 blocks)

Row 100 :

12A, 1B, 1A, 1B, 7A, 13B, 3A (38 blocks)

Row 101 :

3A, 11B, 8A, 2B, 13A (37 blocks)

Row 102 :

23A, 8B, 1A, 1B, 3A (36 blocks)

Row 103 :

3A, 1B, 1A, 1B, 1A, 7B, 21A (35 blocks)

Row 104 :

21A, 2B, 1A, 3B, 1A, 2B, 14A (34 blocks)

Row 105 :

4A, 1B, 1A, 3B, 24A (33 blocks)

Row 106 :

22A, 4B, 1A, 1B, 4A (32 blocks)

Row 107 :

6A, 3B, 22A (31 blocks)

Rows 108-137 :

All color A to the end. Will be a perfect square after row 137

Info :

Cut yarn and tie in ends. This is the end of the graphgan square. Go through with a tapestry needle and extra yarn and touch up any edges you don't like. In corner to corners, catty-corner color changes often don't connect

— Part II: Sweater Assembly

Perimeter Border :

Dc along the entire perimeter of the square. Each block should have 2 dcs in it (it's easiest to count 4 stitches for every 2 blocks). For the corners: dc2 in the last block on that side, ch2, dc2 in the first block on the next side. When the square is entirely bordered in dcs, ch1, cut and tie off yarn

Folding and Sewing :

Fold the square in half such that the back side (wrong side) of the lion's head is touching the back side (wrong side) of the lion's feet. Sew together (mattress stitch recommended) both of the two shorter sides, starting from the where the corners meet to 9 inches before the fold. The 9 unsewed inches will become the arm holes. Cut and tie off yarn

— Sleeves

Row 1 :

Slst into the space just to the left of where your sewing ends. Ch3 (counts as 1 dc), dc into each dc around the arm hole. When you get back to your chain 3, count the dcs you just made. If you don't have an even number, add 1 dc in the space next to where your sewing ends. On the second sleeve, make sure you have the same number of dcs as the first sleeve. Slst into the ch3

Row 2-4 :

ch3, fpdc1, [bpdc1, fpdc1] to end. Slst into ch3

Finishing :

Ch1, cut yarn and tie off

— Collar

Row 1 :

Slst into the space just to the left of where your sewing ends. Ch3 (counts as 1 bpdc). Bpdc1, [fpdc2, bpdc2] until you get to the opposite end of the sweater where your other sewing is. Dc1 in each of the spaces around your sewing, then continue the [fpdc2, bpdc2] pattern as if these two dcs were part of it. When you come to the ch3, add any dcs needed to keep the [fpdc2, bpdc2] pattern even on the next row (you should end with 2 fpdcs before the ch3). Slst into the ch3

Row 2-6 :

Ch3, bpdc1, fpdc2, [bpdc2, fpdc2] to end, slst into ch3

Finishing :

Ch1, cut and tie off yarn. Sew in any lose ends

Assembly Instructions

  • Work double crochet stitches around the entire perimeter of the completed graphgan square, placing 2 dc in each block with special corner treatment (dc2, ch2, dc2)
  • Fold the bordered square in half with wrong sides facing each other, aligning the lion's head section with the lion's feet section
  • Use mattress stitch to sew both shorter sides together, starting from corners and stopping 9 inches before the fold to create armholes
  • Create sleeves by working dc around each armhole opening, then work 3 rows of ribbed stitches using alternating front post and back post double crochet
  • Construct the collar starting at one sewing point, working ribbed pattern using fpdc and bpdc across the neckline for 6 rows
  • Weave in all remaining loose ends with tapestry needle and block if desired for professional finish

Important Notes

  • 💡Tie in yarn ends after completing each row to avoid overwhelming finishing work at the end of the project
  • 💡Use a hook size larger than yarn recommendation for lighter, more mobile fabric that drapes better as wearable garment
  • 💡Keep yarn ends on the front for even rows and back for odd rows to maintain clean appearance on right side
  • 💡Print the graph and mark off completed rows with pencil to track your progress through 137 rows
  • 💡Touch up catty-corner color changes with tapestry needle as they often don't connect perfectly in C2C technique
  • 💡Ensure both sleeves have the same number of stitches for symmetrical fit and professional appearance

This Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan pattern brilliantly combines the artistic beauty of graphgan design with practical wearable fashion. The majestic lion motif worked in rich claret and gold creates a stunning visual centerpiece, while the cocoon-style construction ensures comfortable, flattering fit for all body types. The modified C2C technique using half double crochet creates lighter fabric perfect for layering, and the ribbed finishing details on sleeves and collar add professional polish. Whether you're an experienced crocheter looking for a challenging colorwork project or someone ready to expand beyond blankets into garment construction, this pattern offers the perfect blend of artistic expression and functional design. 🦁🧶✨

You ask,

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FAQs

How do I keep track of my place on the graph with so many color changes?

Print the graph pattern and use a pencil or highlighter to mark off each row as you complete it. Since even rows read from bottom-left to right-top and odd rows read from right-top to bottom-left, marking your progress prevents confusion and helps you catch mistakes early before they become major issues.

Why does this pattern use half double crochet instead of traditional double crochet for C2C?

The designer modified the traditional C2C technique to use smaller half double crochet stitches to create more detailed 'pixels' in the lion image. This allows for better definition in the design and creates lighter, more flexible fabric that's ideal for wearable garments rather than bulky blankets.

Can I adjust the sizing of the finished cardigan?

The cocoon style is naturally one-size-fits-most due to its loose, draping design. However, you can adjust the sizing by changing your hook size (larger hook for bigger fit, smaller for more fitted) or by adding/removing rows from the graphgan square before assembly, though this will alter the lion design proportions.

How should I manage all the different yarn colors to avoid tangles?

Keep separate balls or bobbins for each color section, especially when working with multiple gold sections across one row. Don't carry yarn long distances—cut and rejoin as needed. Store your in-progress work in a large project bag and keep yarn balls organized to minimize tangling when you turn your work.

What's the best way to ensure my armholes are the right size?

The pattern calls for leaving 9 inches unsewed for armholes. Before permanently sewing, pin the cardigan together and try it on to check armhole placement and size. You can adjust the unsewed length based on your personal preference and arm size—smaller frames may prefer 8 inches while larger frames might need 10 inches.