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Dragon Rex Sweater Knitting Pattern

Dragon Rex Sweater Knitting Pattern
4.8★ Rating
20-30 Hours Time Needed
4.1K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic knitting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

🐉

Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Dragon Rex Sweater Knitting Pattern

This Dragon Rex Sweater is a magical knitting project that brings fantasy to life! Designed for children ages 1-12 years, this hooded sweater features dimensional spikes running down the hood and decorating the sleeves, creating an adorable dragon effect. The pattern includes a practical front pocket and is worked in comfortable stockinette stitch with ribbed edging. The sweater is knitted bottom-up with separate front and back pieces, making construction straightforward while achieving professional results.

Dragon Rex Sweater Knitting Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

With clear sizing options and detailed measurements for six age groups, you can create the perfect fit for your little dragon. The pattern uses aran weight yarn in green and gray, making it both cozy and durable for active play.

Why You'll Love This Dragon Rex Sweater Knitting Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines practicality with pure imagination! The dragon spikes add such a playful touch without compromising the sweater's wearability. I appreciate how the designer included a functional front pocket and made the back slightly longer for better coverage. The ribbed pattern detail adds texture and helps the sweater maintain its shape through countless adventures. What really wins me over is seeing how excited kids get when they put it on—it instantly transforms them into their favorite mythical creature while keeping them warm and comfortable!

Dragon Rex Sweater Knitting Pattern step 1 - construction progress Dragon Rex Sweater Knitting Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Dragon Rex Sweater Knitting Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Dragon Rex Sweater Knitting Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this dragon sweater pattern can be with just a few creative tweaks! Instead of the traditional green dragon coloring, I've experimented with deep purple and silver for a magical nighttime dragon effect that looks absolutely stunning. You could also try bright red with orange spikes for a fierce fire dragon, or blues and whites for an ice dragon theme.

For knitters who want to simplify the project, I've found that making the hood without spikes and adding them later gives you more control over placement and lets you decide if you want fewer or more dramatic spikes. Some crafters even skip the hood entirely and add a simple ribbed collar instead, which cuts down significantly on project time while maintaining the sweater's charm.

I've also played with spike placement - instead of just the hood and sleeves, try adding a row of small spikes along the shoulders or even down the center back for a more dramatic dinosaur-inspired look. You can make the spikes larger by adding more increase rows, or keep them tiny and delicate for a subtler texture effect.

The pocket is another area where I love to customize. Sometimes I'll work it in the contrast color for a pop of detail, or add a small embroidered design inside as a secret surprise. You could even skip the pocket entirely and work that section in a textured stitch pattern instead for visual interest without the extra construction steps.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not checking gauge before starting can result in a sweater that doesn't fit properly—always knit a gauge swatch first and measure accurately ✗ Forgetting to place removable markers when indicated makes it difficult to track measurements from the correct starting point throughout the project ✗ Binding off pocket stitches instead of using stitch holders makes the pocket construction more complicated and less neat in appearance ✗ Skipping the blocking step after completing pieces results in uneven edges and prevents the sweater from achieving its proper finished measurements ✗ Not leaving long enough yarn tails when sewing spikes together makes assembly difficult and can result in weak seams that come apart

Dragon Rex Sweater Knitting Pattern

Transform your little one into a magical dragon with this enchanting hooded sweater pattern! Featuring adorable spikes along the hood and sleeves, this cozy design combines warmth with whimsical charm. Perfect for everyday adventures or dress-up play, this pattern includes detailed instructions for creating a front pocket, comfortable ribbed edges, and those signature dragon spikes that make this sweater truly special. Watch their imagination soar as they wear their very own dragon costume sweater!

Intermediate 20-30 Hours

Materials Needed for Dragon Rex Sweater Knitting Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Aran weight yarn (8 wpi, 10 ply, Medium) such as Drops Alaska in green (Main Color) - approximately 350-450g or 525-675 yards
  • 02
    Aran weight yarn in gray (Contrast Color) - approximately 50g or 75 yards
  • 03
    100% wool recommended for best results and warmth

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Circular knitting needles US 8 (5mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
  • 02
    Knitting needles US 7 (4.5mm) or one to two sizes smaller for decorations
  • 03
    Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
  • 04
    Removable stitch marker
  • 05
    Stitch holders (2)
  • 06
    Sewing pins for assembly
  • 07
    Scissors

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— THE PATTERN (Ribbed Edge Pattern):

Row 1 (RS):

k1, *p1, k1*, repeat from *-* all across

Row 2 (WS):

p1, *k1, p1*, repeat from *-* all across

Row 3:

as Row 2

Row 4:

as Row 1

Info:

Repeat Rows 1-4 throughout pattern as indicated

— FRONT:

Cast On:

With MC yarn cast on 47/51/53/57/61/65 sts (choose size 1-2/3-4/5-6/7-8/9-10/11-12 years)

Rows 1-12:

Work the Pattern 3 times (12 rows total)

Next Two Rows:

Continue in Pattern but cast on 2 sts at end of both rows (51/55/57/61/65/69 sts total)

Continue:

Work in Pattern until front measures 2.8/4.5/4.7/5.5/6.3/6.3 inches (7/12/12/14/16/16 cm) from cast on row

Pocket Row 1 (RS):

Work 13/14/14/15/16/17 sts in Pattern, slip next 25/27/29/31/32/34 sts on stitch holder and keep in front, cast on same amount of sts, work last 13/14/14/15/16/17 sts in Pattern

Pocket Row 2 (WS):

Work 13/14/14/15/16/17 sts in Pattern, purl next 25/27/29/31/32/34 sts, work last 13/14/14/15/16/17 sts in Pattern

Pocket Row 3:

Work 13/14/14/15/16/17 sts in Pattern, knit next 25/27/29/31/32/34 sts, work last 13/14/14/15/16/17 sts in Pattern

Continue:

Repeat Pocket Rows 2 and 3 until front measures 7.1/10.6/11/12.6/14.2/14.2 inches (18/27/28/32/36/36 cm), end with WS row

Armhole Row 1 (RS):

Bind off 3 sts, work 10/11/11/12/13/14 sts in Pattern, bind off 26/27/29/31/32/34 sts, work remaining sts in Pattern

Armhole Row 2 (WS):

Bind off 3 sts, work next 10/11/11/12/13/14 sts in Pattern

Top Layer of Pocket:

Slip 25/27/29/31/32/34 sts from holder to needles. With new yarn ball (leave 15 inch/40cm tail), work these sts in Pattern for same number of rows as inner layer, end on WS

Continue Armhole Row 2:

Work all sts in Pattern

Armhole Row 3:

Bind off 1 st, work all sts in Pattern

Armhole Row 4:

Bind off 1 st, work remaining sts in Pattern (43/47/49/53/57/61 sts left)

Continue:

Work in Pattern until piece measures 12.6/14.6/15.4/17.3/19.3/20.1 inches (32/37/39/44/49/51 cm) from cast on

Left Shoulder Row 1 (RS):

Work 15/15/16/17/18/20 sts in Pattern, turn

Left Shoulder Row 2 (WS):

Bind off 2 sts, work remaining sts in Pattern, turn (13/13/14/15/16/18 sts left)

Left Shoulder Row 3:

Work 13/13/14/15/16/18 sts in Pattern, turn

Left Shoulder Row 4:

Bind off 1 st, work remaining sts in Pattern, turn (12/12/13/14/15/17 sts left)

Finish Left Shoulder:

Work 4 more rows in Pattern, cast off 12/12/13/14/15/17 sts

Neck Opening:

With RS facing join yarn to remaining sts, bind off 13/17/17/19/21/21 sts (or slip to holder if working hood in the round), work remaining sts in Pattern (15/15/16/17/18/20 sts)

Right Shoulder Row 2 (WS):

Work 15/15/16/17/18/20 sts in Pattern, turn

Right Shoulder Row 3 (RS):

Bind off 2 sts, work remaining sts in Pattern, turn (13/13/14/15/16/18 sts left)

Right Shoulder Row 4:

Work 13/13/14/15/16/18 sts in Pattern

Right Shoulder Row 5:

Bind off 1 st, work remaining sts in Pattern (12/12/13/14/15/17 sts left)

Finish Right Shoulder:

Work 3 more rows in Pattern, bind off remaining sts

Info:

With WS facing, sew top and bottom edge of pocket to main piece

— BACK:

Info:

Back piece is worked same as front without pocket and is 12 rows longer

Cast On:

Cast on same amount of sts as front, work Pattern 3 times

Marker Placement:

Place removable marker at start of next row and keep for measuring. Measure back from this marker from now on

Extra Length:

Repeat Pattern 3 times more (skip this for same length as front)

Continue:

Work as front ignoring pocket instructions, knit until armholes are done

Start Neckline Shaping:

Begin when back measures 13.4/15.4/16.1/18.1/20.1/20.9 inches (34/39/41/46/51/53 cm)

Left Shoulder Row 1 (RS):

Work 15/15/16/17/18/20 sts in Pattern, turn

Left Shoulder Row 2 (WS):

Bind off 2 sts, work remaining sts in Pattern, turn (13/13/14/15/16/18 sts left)

Left Shoulder Row 3:

Work 13/13/14/15/16/18 sts in Pattern, turn

Left Shoulder Row 4:

Bind off 1 st, work remaining sts in Pattern, turn (12/12/13/14/15/17 sts left)

Finish Left Shoulder:

Work 1 more row in Pattern, cast off these sts

Neck Opening:

With RS facing join yarn to remaining sts, bind off 13/17/17/19/21/21 sts (or slip to holder if working hood in the round), knit remaining sts in Pattern

Right Shoulder Row 2 (WS):

Work 15/15/16/17/18/20 sts in Pattern, turn

Right Shoulder Row 3 (RS):

Bind off 2 sts, work remaining sts in Pattern, turn (13/13/14/15/16/18 sts left)

Right Shoulder Row 4:

Work 13/13/14/15/16/18 sts in Pattern

Right Shoulder Row 5:

Bind off 1 st, work remaining sts in Pattern (12/12/13/14/15/17 sts left)

Finish:

Next row bind off all sts

— SLEEVES (MAKE 2):

Cast On:

Cast on 25/25/27/27/31/31 sts

Rows 1-10:

Work Pattern 2 times, then knit stockinette stitch for 2 rows (10 rows total)

Continue with Increases:

Work stockinette stitch and increase 1 st after first and before last st of row (+2 sts per row)

Increase Frequency:

Do this 10/12/12/13/13/17 times after every 2/3/3/4/5/4 rows (45/49/51/53/57/65 sts total)

Continue:

Work stockinette stitch to reach sleeve length 6.7/10.2/11.4/13.4/15.4/16.9 inches (17/26/29/34/39/43 cm)

Shape Cap:

Each next 6 rows bind off 5/5/6/6/6/7 first sts of row

Finish:

Next row bind off remaining sts

— HOOD:

Method 1 - Knitted Separately:

Cast on 46/58/58/66/70/70 sts with straight needles

Hood Row 1 (RS) - Separate:

k1, (p1, k1) x 2 times, knit until 5 sts left, (p1, k1) x 2 times, k1

Method 2 - Circular Needles:

With front facing, keep first 6/8/8/9/10/10 sts on holder. Slip remaining front sts to needle, pick up 10/12/12/14/14/14 from first shoulder, slip back sts to needle, pick up 10/12/12/14/14/14 from other shoulder, slip remaining front sts to needle

Hood Row 1 (RS) - Circular:

sl1, (p1, k1) x 2 times, knit until 5 sts left, (p1, k1) x 2 times, k1 (46/58/58/66/70/70 sts total)

Hood Row 2 (WS):

sl1, (p1, k1) x 2 times, purl until 5 sts left, (p1, k1) x 2 times, k1

Hood Row 3:

sl1, (k1, p1) x 2 times, knit until 5 sts left, (k1, p1) x 2 times, k1

Hood Row 4:

sl1, (k1, p1) x 2 times, purl until 5 sts left, (k1, p1) x 2 times, k1

Place Marker:

Next row place marker after 23rd/29th/29th/33rd/35th/35th st and slip it each row

Increases:

Keep repeating Hood Rows 1-4. Next 9/5/7/4/2/2 RS rows increase (kfb or M1) before and after marker (+2 sts on one row). On WS work back without increases

After Increases:

You will have 64/68/72/74/74/74 sts total

Continue:

Keep repeating Hood Rows 1-4 until hood measures 9.5/10.5/11/11/11/11 inches (24/27/28/28/28/28 cm) from pick-up or cast on row

Decreases:

Next 3 RS rows ssk before and k2tog after marker (-2 sts each RS row, on WS work back without decreases)

Finish:

Bind off all sts, fold hood so one longer edge meets the other, sew top together with WS facing through inner loops (or use 3-needle bind-off)

If Knitted Separately:

Attach with cast on row to neck opening so Pattern edges are front center, sew with WS facing

— HOOD SPIKES (MAKE 2):

Cast On:

Cast on 3 stitches

Row 1 (RS):

k3

Row 2:

k1, kfb, k1 (4 sts)

Row 3:

k1, kfb, k2 (5 sts)

Row 4:

k3, kfb, k1 (6 sts)

Row 5:

k1, kfb, k4 (7 sts)

Row 6:

k5, kfb, k1 (8 sts)

Row 7:

k1, kfb, k6 (9 sts)

Row 8:

k7, kfb, k1 (10 sts)

Rows 9-12:

k10

Row 13:

Bind off 7 sts, k3 (3 sts)

Repeat:

Repeat Rows 2-13 nine times more for 10 spikes total (add more spikes to go down back if desired)

Finish:

Bind off all sts, cut yarn

Assembly:

Sew two sets of spikes together first with triangle edges WS facing (add filling if desired), turn RS facing and sew long straight edges

Attach:

Pin spikes to hood seam first, then sew firmly in place. Weave in all ends

— SLEEVE SPIKES (MAKE 4):

Cast On:

Cast on 3 stitches

Row 1:

k3

Row 2:

k1, kfb, k1 (4 sts)

Row 3:

k1, kfb, k2 (5 sts)

Row 4:

k3, kfb, k1 (6 sts)

Row 5:

k1, kfb, k4 (7 sts)

Row 6:

k5, kfb, k1 (8 sts)

Row 7:

k1, kfb, k6 (9 sts)

Row 8:

k7, kfb, k1 (10 sts)

Row 9:

Bind off 7 sts, k3 (3 sts)

Repeat:

Repeat Rows 2-9 two times more for 3 spikes total

Finish:

Bind off all sts, cut yarn

Assembly:

Sew sleeve spikes together as hood spikes, attach to sleeves with first spike at sleeve cuff. Weave in all ends

Assembly Instructions

  • Block all pieces according to finished measurements before assembly to ensure proper sizing and even edges.
  • Sew the back and front pieces together at the shoulders using mattress stitch or your preferred seaming method.
  • Attach the sleeves to the armholes, matching the center of the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam and easing fabric as needed.
  • Sew the sleeves from under the arm down the sides up to the row where you added 2 extra stitches on both sides of the front piece.
  • Leave the rest of the bottom edge open on both sides for ease of movement and the sweater's design.
  • Attach the hood to the neck opening if knitted separately, ensuring the ribbed pattern edges align at front center.
  • Sew hood spikes to the hood seam after stuffing them lightly, and attach sleeve spikes with the first spike positioned at each sleeve cuff.

Important Notes

  • 💡Always check your gauge before beginning - incorrect gauge will result in a sweater that doesn't fit the intended size
  • 💡The back piece is deliberately 12 rows longer than the front for better coverage when worn
  • 💡Keep stitch holders handy throughout the project as they're essential for the pocket construction and hood assembly
  • 💡Use removable markers to track your measurements accurately, especially when working the back piece
  • 💡Leave long yarn tails (about 15 inches or 40cm) when indicated for easier sewing and stronger seams
  • 💡Block all pieces before assembly to achieve the correct finished measurements and professional appearance
  • 💡The contrast color yarn is only used for decorative spikes, so one skein should be sufficient for all sizes

This enchanting Dragon Rex Sweater pattern transforms ordinary knitwear into a magical wardrobe piece! Designed with careful attention to fit and playful details, it features dimensional spikes that bring the dragon theme to life while maintaining comfort and wearability. The pattern's clear instructions and multiple sizing options make it accessible for intermediate knitters ready to expand their skills. Whether for everyday wear or special occasions, this hooded sweater will spark joy and imagination in every young dragon who wears it. 🐉✨ Happy knitting! 🧶

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Can I make this sweater without the spikes?

Absolutely! The spikes are decorative elements that can be omitted if you prefer a simpler hooded sweater. The main sweater pattern is complete without them, and you'll still have a cozy, wearable garment with a functional hood and pocket.

How do I choose the right size for my child?

Measure your child's chest circumference and compare it to the finished measurements provided in the pattern. Choose a size with 2-3 inches of positive ease for comfortable fit. If between sizes, consider your child's height and whether they prefer a snugger or looser fit.

Can I use different yarn than what's recommended?

Yes, you can substitute yarn as long as you match the gauge of 17 stitches x 22 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch. Any aran weight yarn will work, but make sure to knit a gauge swatch first. Keep in mind that different fiber contents may affect drape and warmth.

What's the difference between knitting the hood separately versus picking up stitches?

Knitting the hood separately with straight needles gives you more flexibility and makes it easier to try on for fit before attaching. Picking up stitches with circular needles creates a seamless attachment but requires more experience with circular knitting techniques.

How do I make the back longer as instructed?

After placing your removable marker, you'll work the ribbed pattern 3 additional times (12 extra rows) before continuing as you did for the front. This creates a sweater back that provides better coverage. You can skip this if you prefer equal lengths.

Can I add more spikes down the back of the sweater?

Yes! The pattern specifically mentions you can add more spikes to extend them down the back piece to the bottom edge. Just continue repeating Rows 2-13 of the spike pattern until you have the desired length of connected spikes.