🧢 Beautiful ✨ Detailed πŸ’ Adorable

Crochet Star Motif Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern

Crochet Star Motif Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern
4.2β˜…Rating
10-15 HoursTime Needed
3.6KMade This
βœ‚οΈ

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour projectβ€”great for savoring the process over several sessions.

🧣

Snug Essential

Everyday comfort with practical charm, designed for both functionality and style through changing seasons.

About This Crochet Star Motif Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern

Crochet Star Motif Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

A lovely wedding or housewarming gift for someone who loves a cottage-style bedroom, and a keepsake you can pass down. Make the sham set first for a quick win.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Star Motif Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern

I love how calm this one is to make. After the second or third square my hands knew the petal rows by heart, and I stopped counting out loud, which never happens with lace. The petals are the part I look forward to, because shaping one with those little increases and decreases feels like drawing a leaf with yarn. I also love that you get a finished piece every evening, so it never feels like a never-ending blanket. Mine now lives on our guest bed and visitors always ask where it came from.

Crochet Star Motif Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern step 1 Crochet Star Motif Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern step 2 Crochet Star Motif Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern step 3 Crochet Star Motif Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

The first time I made one of these squares, I sewed the petals on before blocking and ended up with a puckered mess. I picked everything apart, soaked the pieces, pinned them to size, and tried again. Now I always block the blue squares and the petals separately, and the stars sit flat every time.

Here's the tip I wish I'd had sooner: lay all four petals on the square with the tips pointing at the corners and step back before you sew. Squint at it. If the star looks even from across the room, it will look even on the bed. I pin first, then tack the center, then stitch the edges in one direction.

On colors, I made a small test set in sage green with a soft oatmeal star, and it felt completely different, almost like a woodland quilt. A charcoal square with a blush star would look gorgeous too. Whatever you pick, buy all the blue at once, because slight dye lot shifts show up like faint stripes once a few dozen squares sit side by side. Keep a little ball of cream aside for repairs later.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— If the four petals are sewn with their base points overlapping, the center of the star turns lumpy and puckers the blue square, so pin them with the points just touching and tack the center first.βœ— In Row 5 of the petal, skipping a stitch off center makes the eyelet drift sideways, so count the nine stitches and skip exactly the middle one.βœ— Squares can come out looking like trapezoids when the foundation chain is worked tighter than the rows, so chain loosely or use a larger hook just for Row 1 of the base square.βœ— Joining seams worked with tight slip stitches will cinch the grid and make the bedspread cup upward, so use the larger hook and keep each slip stitch loose and even.βœ— Border Round 1 only reaches 1280 sc if you work 2 sc in each of the 178 side row ends and treat the corner rows as corner stitches, so tally each side before starting the scallops.βœ— Squares turned the wrong way before joining will show a different top edge in the grid, so always keep Row 20 of every square at the top before you start a seam.

Crochet Star Motif Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern

Picture your bedroom wrapped in soft denim blue, with a creamy four-pointed star blooming in the middle of every square. You build this bedspread one motif at a time, so you can tuck a square in your bag and stitch at the kitchen table, on the bus, or while the kettle boils. Once the squares are joined with crisp cream seams and trimmed with a scalloped edge, you'll also have two matching pillow shams that tie the whole bed together. It looks like a classic cottage quilt, but it's all simple rows, a handful of shaped petals, and a rhythm you'll fall into fast.

Intermediate 10-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Star Motif Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 4.6 kg (about 10 lb) of DK weight cotton yarn in medium denim blue for the base squares and sham backs, roughly 50 g (1.8 oz) per square
  • 02
    Approximately 2.4 kg (about 5.3 lb) of DK weight cotton yarn in cream for the star petals, joining seams, border, and sham edgings
  • 03
    A small extra ball of cream for repairs and sewing the petals on

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook, approximately, for the squares and petals
  • 02
    5 mm (US H-8) crochet hook, approximately, for the joining seams
  • 03
    Tapestry needle with a large eye
  • 04
    Sharp scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Rustproof pins for blocking and positioning petals
  • 07
    Blocking mats or a clean towel-covered surface
  • 08
    Measuring tape
  • 09
    Two queen size pillow inserts, roughly 50 x 75 cm (20 x 30 in)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” 1. Blue Base Square (make 84: 72 for the bedspread and 12 for the shams) :

Info :

Each square is approximately 25 cm (10 in) wide and tall. The full bedspread of 8 squares across and 9 down measures about 200 x 225 cm (79 x 89 in) before the border and roughly 205 x 230 cm (81 x 91 in) after it. Each sham front is 2 squares across and 3 down, about 50 x 75 cm (20 x 30 in). Gauge is approximately 14 dc and 8 rows in 10 cm (4 in). To widen the bedspread, add squares in pairs across so the border stitch count stays a multiple of 4. To lengthen it, add whole rows of squares and add 80 sc to Border Round 1 for each added row. Each extra square adds 25 cm (10 in).

Row 1 :

With blue, ch 37, dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (35, counting the ch 3 as a dc)

Row 2-20 :

ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, dc in each st across, placing the last dc in the top of the previous turning ch (35)

Info :

Fasten off after Row 20 and weave in the beginning tail. The square should measure about 25 cm (10 in) each way. If yours comes out smaller or larger, change your hook size before making more, because the border counts depend on 35 sts across and 20 rows.

β€” 2. Cream Star Petal (make 4 for each square, 336 in total) :

Info :

Each petal is worked flat in rows from the narrow base point out to the tip. It measures about 13 cm (5 in) long and 6.5 cm (2.5 in) wide at the widest point. The star is made separately and sewn onto the blue square, which lets the blue show through the little eyelet in each petal. In every row the turning ch 3 stands in for the first dc, so do not work into the first st of the previous row. The last st of each row goes into the top of the previous turning ch.

Row 1 :

With cream, ch 5, dc in 4th ch from hook and in next ch (3, counting the ch 3 as a dc)

Row 2 :

ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc in last st (5)

Row 3 :

ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in last st (7)

Row 4 :

ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in last st (9)

Row 5 :

ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, dc in next 3 sts, ch 1, sk next st (this is the center st), dc in last 4 sts (8 dc and 1 ch-1 sp, 9 in all)

Row 6 :

ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, dc in next 3 sts, dc in ch-1 sp, dc in last 4 sts (9)

Row 7 :

ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, dc in each st across (9)

Row 8 :

ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog over last 2 sts (7)

Row 9 :

ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog over last 2 sts (5)

Row 10 :

ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc2tog over last 2 sts (3)

Row 11 :

ch 2, turn, dc3tog over the 3 sts (1). Fasten off, leaving a 30 cm (12 in) tail for sewing

Info :

Make all 336 petals before you start sewing so you can work in a steady batch. Each blue square gets 4 petals, sewn on before the squares are joined (see the assembly steps).

β€” 3. Joining the Squares :

Info :

Use cream and the larger hook so the seams stay stretchy. Always hold squares wrong sides together, so the slip stitch ridge shows on the right side as a raised cream line. Keep Row 20 of every square at the top. Sew the petals onto every square before joining.

Strip Seams :

Hold 2 squares wrong sides together with side edges aligned. Insert hook through both layers in the first row end, then sl st through both layers in each of the 20 row ends (20 sl st per seam). Add squares the same way until each strip has 8 squares (7 seams). Make 9 strips

Joining Strips :

Hold 2 strips wrong sides together with the seams matching. Sl st through both layers in each st along the top edge of one strip and the bottom edge of the next (35 sl st per square, 280 sl st per seam). Join all 9 strips the same way (8 seams)

Sham Front :

For each sham, join 2 squares side by side with 20 sl st to make a strip, and make 3 strips. Join the strips with 35 sl st per square (70 sl st per seam, 2 seams). The front measures about 50 x 75 cm (20 x 30 in). Make 2 sham fronts

β€” 4. Bedspread Scalloped Border :

Info :

The border is worked in cream with the smaller hook. Corner sts are the first and last sts of the top and bottom edges. Count each side as you go, so the scallop repeat of 4 lands evenly.

Round 1 :

Join cream with a sl st in the top left corner st, ch 1, 3 sc in same st, sc in each of next 278 sts across the top, 3 sc in next corner st (284 along the top). Work 2 sc in each of the 178 row ends down the right side (356). 3 sc in corner st, sc in each of next 278 sts across the bottom, 3 sc in next corner st (284). Work 2 sc in each of the 178 row ends up the left side (356). Join with a sl st to first sc (1280)

Round 2 :

ch 1, *sk next sc, 3 dc in next sc, sk next sc, sl st in next sc, repeat from * around (320 scallops). Join with a sl st to the base of the ch 1 and fasten off

β€” 5. Pillow Sham Back Panel (make 2 for each sham, 4 in total) :

Info :

Each back panel is approximately 50 x 45 cm (20 x 18 in). Two panels overlap by about 15 cm (6 in) to make an envelope opening, so the sham fits a pillow insert of roughly 50 x 75 cm (20 x 30 in).

Row 1 :

With blue, ch 72, dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (70, counting the ch 3 as a dc)

Row 2-36 :

ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, dc in each st across, placing the last dc in the top of the previous turning ch (70)

Row 37 :

ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (70). Fasten off and weave in ends. This sc edge is the opening edge of the panel

β€” 6. Pillow Sham Edging :

Info :

Work the edging around the joined sham front before attaching the back panels. Corner sts are the first and last sts of the top and bottom edges.

Round 1 :

Join cream with a sl st in the top left corner st, ch 1, 3 sc in same st, sc in each of next 68 sts across the top, 3 sc in next corner st (74 along the top). Work 2 sc in each of the 58 row ends down the right side (116). 3 sc in corner st, sc in each of next 68 sts across the bottom, 3 sc in next corner st (74). Work 2 sc in each of the 58 row ends up the left side (116). Join with a sl st to first sc (380)

Round 2 :

ch 1, *sk next sc, 3 dc in next sc, sk next sc, sl st in next sc, repeat from * around (95 scallops). Join with a sl st to the base of the ch 1 and fasten off

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in all ends, then wet block every blue square to 25 cm (10 in) square and block the petals flat, pinning each one to its full 13 cm (5 in) length so the tips stay pointed.
  • On each blue square, lay the 4 petals with their base points just touching at the center, between Rows 10 and 11 and over the 18th st. Point the tips toward the 4 corners, pin, tack the bases together with 1 small stitch, then whip stitch around each petal edge with the cream tail.
  • Join the squares as written in Section 3: 9 strips of 8 squares for the bedspread, then join the strips with Row 20 at the top of every square, and make 2 sham fronts of 2 squares across and 3 down.
  • Work the scalloped border around the bedspread and around each sham front, then steam block the scallops flat, pinning each scallop point out to the same width.
  • Lay a sham front wrong side up. Place the first back panel with its Row 1 edge along the bottom edge of the front, wrong sides together, and the sc opening edge pointing toward the center. Place the second panel with its Row 1 edge along the top edge, overlapping the first by about 15 cm (6 in).
  • With cream, whip stitch the back panels to the front around all four outer sides, working just inside the Round 1 sc of the edging so the scallops stay free. Add 4 small stitches across the overlap at each side edge to stop the flaps gaping.
  • Slip a pillow insert in through the overlap, and spread the bedspread over the mattress, letting the scalloped border hang evenly on both sides.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Make a swatch first and aim for about 14 dc and 8 rows in 10 cm (4 in), because the border counts of 1280 and 380 sc only work with squares of 35 sts by 20 rows.
  • πŸ’‘Buy all your blue yarn at once and check the dye lot numbers, since slight shade shifts show up as faint stripes once dozens of squares sit side by side.
  • πŸ’‘Keep a running tally of finished squares and petals, aiming for 84 squares and 336 petals, so you aren't surprised at joining time.
  • πŸ’‘Block petals and squares before sewing the stars on, because blocked pieces sit flat and don't pull the cream against the blue.
  • πŸ’‘Use the larger hook only for the joining seams, and keep slip stitches loose enough that the seam stretches as much as the squares do.
  • πŸ’‘Mark the top of every square with a removable stitch marker in Row 20, and remove it only after the square is joined.
  • πŸ’‘Wash the finished bedspread in cool water on a gentle cycle and dry it flat so the squares and scallops keep their shape.

Every square you finish is a little step toward a bed that feels handmade in the best way. Take your time, pick a cozy playlist, and enjoy watching the stars appear one after another. When the last scallop is stitched and the bedspread is spread across your mattress, you'll feel proud of every stitch. Share the finished set with someone you love, or keep it all for yourself. Happy crocheting! 🧢✨ Wrap yourself in something you made with your own two hands. 🧡

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Can I use worsted weight yarn instead of DK cotton?

You can, but the squares will come out bigger. With worsted weight and a 5 mm hook each square may reach about 28 cm (11 in), so the bedspread grows by roughly 24 cm (9.5 in) in each direction. The border counts in this pattern assume 35 sts and 20 rows, so swatch first and adjust the number of squares if you want to keep the finished size.

Why are the stars made separately and sewn on?

Making each petal flat lets you shape the leaf points cleanly with simple increases and decreases, and the eyelet in Rows 5 and 6 shows the blue base through the cream. It also means you can crochet petals in batches while watching TV, then sew them on once everything is blocked.

How many squares do I need for a smaller throw?

A throw of 4 squares across and 5 down is about 100 x 125 cm (39 x 49 in) and needs 20 squares. Check the border count: top and bottom each get 3 sc in the corners plus 35 sc per square minus 2, and each side gets 2 sc in every row end except the 2 corner rows. Keep the total divisible by 4 so the scallops land evenly.

How do I stop the edges of the squares curling before joining?

Wet block each square pinned flat to 25 cm (10 in) and let it dry completely. Dense double crochet rows can roll slightly at the foundation edge, and blocking sets Row 1 and Row 20 straight so the sl st seams line up stitch for stitch.

Is this pattern suitable for someone who has only made one scarf?

If you can work double crochet and turn rows, you can make the squares. The petals add increases, decreases, and one eyelet row, so work one petal on its own before starting the rest. The joining and border are repetitive but not difficult, and the shams are a good place to practice before you commit to the full bedspread.

How do I choose colors if I want a different look?

Pick a mid-tone for the base and a lighter shade for the stars so the points show clearly. A sage base with oatmeal petals or a charcoal base with soft blush petals both work well. Keep the seams and border in the same shade as the stars so the grid reads as part of the design.