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Crochet Sage and Cream Lace Square Bedspread with Matching Pillow Shams Pattern

Crochet Sage and Cream Lace Square Bedspread with Matching Pillow Shams Pattern
4.0β˜…Rating
10-15 HoursTime Needed
2.6KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour projectβ€”great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Warm Welcome

A comforting piece for home or gifts that brings handmade warmth to everyday moments and special occasions.

About This Crochet Sage and Cream Lace Square Bedspread with Matching Pillow Shams Pattern

Crochet Sage and Cream Lace Square Bedspread with Matching Pillow Shams Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Gift it to a newlywed couple, spread it over a guest bed in spring, or drape it across your own bed with the shams stacked against the headboard for a calm, layered look.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Sage and Cream Lace Square Bedspread with Matching Pillow Shams Pattern

I'm honestly smitten with how forgiving this one is. Every square is its own tiny project, so if one comes out wonky I redo twenty minutes of work instead of a whole blanket. The double crochet rounds are rhythmic enough for chatting or catching up on a show, and nothing is fiddly when it's time to put it all together. Plus there's a real thrill in stacking finished squares and watching the pile get taller.

Crochet Sage and Cream Lace Square Bedspread with Matching Pillow Shams Pattern step 1 Crochet Sage and Cream Lace Square Bedspread with Matching Pillow Shams Pattern step 2 Crochet Sage and Cream Lace Square Bedspread with Matching Pillow Shams Pattern step 3 Crochet Sage and Cream Lace Square Bedspread with Matching Pillow Shams Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

The first time I made a motif like this one, I almost gave up at the mesh rounds because I kept losing track of where my skipped stitches were. Then I started touching each skipped stitch with my left finger as I chained, and everything clicked. Now those open rounds are my favorite part, because the square suddenly looks like lace.

I made my squares in a milky cream and kept the sage green for the outer round, and I'll tell you, that single green round does so much work. Pick a green that's a touch grayer than you think you want, because it will look brighter once it's in a big grid on a bed.

My best tip is to make three or four motifs and join them before you commit to the whole thing. Lay them on your knee, see how the seams look, and decide if you like the proportions. I also leave my finished squares in a basket by the couch, so there's always one more to start. If you want a different feel, try a soft dusty blue or a warm terracotta for the outlines, and keep the cream the same.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— In Rounds 5, 7 and 9 it's easy to forget the corner increases and work only one dc on each side of the ch 2, which pulls the square into a rounded diamond, so always check for 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in every corner sp.βœ— In the mesh Rounds 6 and 8 you can lose the rhythm and end a side on a dc instead of a skipped stitch, so count each side as 9 or 12 pairs of ch 1 and dc plus one last ch 1 before the corner.βœ— Joining the motifs through both loops instead of the BLO only buries the green ridge and flattens the seams, so stay in the back loops of both squares for every one of the 33 sts per seam.βœ— If the edging scallops don't land evenly at the corners, you most likely miscounted the sc along one side, so recount 196 sc on each width edge and 262 sc on each length edge before starting the scallop round.βœ— Squares worked at slightly different tension make the seams ripple, so block every motif to 26 cm (10.2 in) and pin it to size before you join anything.

Crochet Sage and Cream Lace Square Bedspread with Matching Pillow Shams Pattern

Imagine pulling back a crocheted coverlet that looks like it belongs in a sunny farmhouse guest room, and knowing your own hands made every stitch. This one grows square by square, so it's easy to pick up and put down between other things. You get that happy little moment every time a motif comes off your hook, and the stack slowly turns into something you'll want to show off. Gather a few skeins of cotton, find your comfiest chair, and settle in for a project that rewards your patience with a true heirloom feel.

Intermediate 10-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Sage and Cream Lace Square Bedspread with Matching Pillow Shams Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 2,400 g of DK weight cotton yarn in warm cream for Rounds 1-9 of all 60 motifs (48 for the bedspread, 12 for two shams)
  • 02
    Approximately 500 g of DK weight cotton yarn in soft sage green for the outer round of every motif, all joining seams, the scalloped edging and the sham frames
  • 03
    About 1.2 m of cream cotton fabric, roughly 112 cm (44 in) wide, for the sham backs

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook, approximately 3.5 mm (US E-4), adjusted to reach a 26 cm (10.2 in) motif
  • 02
    Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
  • 03
    Sharp scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers for marking the first corner of each round
  • 05
    Blocking mats and rust-proof pins for shaping the squares and scallops
  • 06
    Measuring tape
  • 07
    Sewing needle and cream thread for the sham backs
  • 08
    Iron or steamer for pressing the sham fabric

Progress Tracker

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β€” 1. Square Motif (make 60) :

Info :

Each finished motif measures approximately 26 cm (10.2 in) square. Make 48 motifs for the bedspread and 12 for the two shams, 60 in total. The finished bedspread, 6 motifs wide and 8 long, measures roughly 162 x 214 cm (64 x 84 in) with the edging, and each sham measures roughly 55 x 81 cm (21.5 x 32 in). To resize the bedspread, add or remove motifs in pairs along a side. Each added pair adds about 52 cm (20.5 in) and 66 sts to that edge, which gives exactly 11 more scallops, so the edging still fits evenly.

Info :

Rounds 1-9 are worked in cream and Round 10 is worked in green. Join every round with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3 unless told otherwise, and don't turn your work.

Round 1 :

Ch 4 and join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, [3 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times. Sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (12 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 2 :

Sl st in each of next 2 dc and into next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp. Ch 1, sk next 3 dc. [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, sk next 3 dc] 3 times. Sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (24 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sps, 4 ch-1 sps)

Round 3 :

Sl st in each of next 2 dc and into next ch-2 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp. [Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner sp] 3 times. Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (36 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sps, 8 ch-1 sps)

Round 4 :

Sl st in each of next 2 dc and into next ch-2 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp. [Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner sp] 3 times. Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (48 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sps, 12 ch-1 sps)

Round 5 :

Sl st in each of next 2 dc and into next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in same sp. [Dc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp across the side (15 dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp] 3 times. Dc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp across the last side (15 dc). Sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (76 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sps, 19 dc on each side between corners)

Round 6 :

Sl st in next dc and into next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in same sp. [(Ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st) 9 times, ch 1, sk 1 st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next corner sp] 3 times. (Ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st) 9 times, ch 1, sk 1 st. Sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (44 dc, 40 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-2 sps)

Round 7 :

Sl st into next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in same sp. [Dc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp across the side (21 dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp] 3 times. Dc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp across the last side (21 dc). Sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (100 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sps, 25 dc on each side between corners)

Round 8 :

Sl st in next dc and into next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in same sp. [(Ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st) 12 times, ch 1, sk 1 st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next corner sp] 3 times. (Ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st) 12 times, ch 1, sk 1 st. Sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (56 dc, 52 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-2 sps)

Round 9 :

Sl st into next ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in same sp. [Dc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp across the side (27 dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp] 3 times. Dc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp across the last side (27 dc). Sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off cream. (124 dc, 4 corner ch-2 sps, 31 dc on each side between corners)

Round 10 (Green) :

Join green with a sl st in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 1, sc in same sp. [Sc in each of next 31 dc, sc in next corner sp] 3 times. Sc in each of next 31 dc. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (128 sc: 31 along each side plus 1 at each corner, so every side has 33 sc from corner to corner)

β€” 2. Joining the Motifs :

Info :

Weave in the cream and green ends and block every motif to 26 cm (10.2 in) square before joining. Squares of matching size make the seams much easier. Every seam in this pattern is worked in green.

Single Seam :

Place 2 motifs with wrong sides together and the green edges lined up. Join green with a sl st through the BLO of both corner sc. Sl st through the BLO of both layers in each of the next 32 pairs of sts, ending in the corner sc at the far end. Fasten off. (33 sl sts per seam)

Strips :

Using the single seam, join 6 motifs side by side to make 1 strip. Each strip has 5 seams. Make 8 strips for the bedspread. For the shams, make 2 strips of 3 motifs for each sham, which means 2 seams per strip.

Joining Strips :

Lay the 8 strips side by side and join them along their long edges with the same BLO sl st seam. Each strip-to-strip seam runs across 6 motifs, so work 1 sl st in each of the 198 pairs of sts (33 per motif). For each sham, join its 2 strips with 1 seam of 99 sl sts. You'll have 7 strip-to-strip seams for the bedspread.

Info :

Where four motif corners meet, pull the first sl st of each new seam snug so no gap opens at the crossing point. If a tiny hole shows, close it with a few sl sts through the four corner sc.

β€” 3. Scalloped Edging (Green, bedspread only) :

Info :

The bedspread now has 198 sts along each width edge (6 motifs, 33 sts each) and 264 sts along each length edge (8 motifs, 33 sts each), counting the corner sts at both ends. Both numbers divide evenly by 6, which is why the scallops fit without any fudging.

Round 1 :

Join green with a sl st in a corner st at the start of a width edge. Ch 1, 3 sc in same st. Sc in each of next 196 sts along the width edge, 3 sc in next corner st, sc in each of next 262 sts along the length edge, 3 sc in next corner st, sc in each of next 196 sts, 3 sc in next corner st, sc in each of next 262 sts. Sl st to first sc. (928 sc)

Round 2 :

Sl st in next sc (the middle sc of the corner). 7 dc in same st for the corner shell. [Sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st] 33 times across the width edge. 7 dc in next corner middle st. [Sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st] 44 times along the length edge. 7 dc in next corner middle st. Work the bracket 33 times across the width edge. 7 dc in next corner middle st. Work the bracket 44 times along the length edge. Fasten off. (798 dc: 33 scallops on each width edge, 44 on each length edge, and a 7 dc shell at each corner)

β€” 4. Pillow Sham Front (make 2) :

Info :

Each sham front is 6 motifs joined 2 wide by 3 long (see the Joining the Motifs section). The back is a simple cream fabric envelope, which keeps the sham easy to wash and saves a lot of extra motifs. The finished front measures roughly 55 x 81 cm (21.5 x 32 in) and fits a standard 50 x 75 cm (20 x 30 in) pillow.

Round 1 :

Join green with a sl st in a corner st at the end of a short edge. Ch 1, 3 sc in same st. Sc in each of next 64 sts along the short edge, 3 sc in next corner st, sc in each of next 97 sts along the long edge, 3 sc in next corner st, sc in each of next 64 sts, 3 sc in next corner st, sc in each of next 97 sts. Sl st to first sc. (334 sc)

Round 2 :

Sl st in next sc (the middle sc of the corner). Ch 1, 3 sc in same st. Sc in each of next 66 sts, 3 sc in next corner middle st, sc in each of next 99 sts, 3 sc in next corner middle st, sc in each of next 66 sts, 3 sc in next corner middle st, sc in each of next 99 sts. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (342 sc)

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in every cream and green end on all 60 motifs, then wet block each square flat and pin it to 26 cm (10.2 in) so the corners stay sharp and the edges run straight.
  • Lay the bedspread squares out in 8 rows of 6 on a clean floor, turning each motif so the Round 1 start sits in the same corner, and lay the sham squares out as 3 rows of 2 so the seams will match up.
  • Join each row of 6 into a strip with green BLO sl st seams of 33 pairs of sts, then join the 8 strips along their long edges with 198 st seams, matching every motif corner to the one across from it.
  • At every spot where four corners meet, tug the first sl st of the new seam snug and check for a gap before moving on, closing any hole with a few small sl sts through the four corner sc.
  • Work the green sc round (928 sc) and the scallop round (798 dc) around the bedspread, then wet block it flat, pinning the tip of each scallop and each corner shell until fully dry.
  • For each sham, join 6 motifs in 2 columns of 3 with one 99 st seam, work the 2 green frame rounds, then block the panel to about 55 x 81 cm (21.5 x 32 in).
  • Cut 2 pieces of cream fabric per sham, each 56 cm (22 in) wide and 52 cm (20.5 in) long, and hem one 56 cm edge of each. With the crochet front right side up, lay the fabric pieces on top with right sides down and the hemmed edges overlapping about 20 cm in the middle. Pin all around, backstitch through the frame Round 1 sc about 1 cm in from the edge, turn right side out through the overlap, and press the corners.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Make one full motif first and measure it after blocking. If it's wider or narrower than 26 cm (10.2 in), go down or up by 0.25 to 0.5 mm on your hook before making the other 59.
  • πŸ’‘Buy all the cream and all the green you need at the same time so the dye lots match, because a slight color shift shows clearly across a big plain-colored bedspread.
  • πŸ’‘Place a stitch marker in the first corner ch-2 sp of each round so you always know where the beginning is, especially in the mesh rounds where the ch-3 is easy to lose.
  • πŸ’‘Work the motifs in batches of six and keep a tally on paper. It makes it easy to see your progress, and every strip of six is ready to join right away.
  • πŸ’‘Always add or remove motifs in pairs along a side so the scalloped edging still fits evenly, since each pair adds exactly 66 sts or 11 scallops.
  • πŸ’‘Wet blocking the finished bedspread opens up the mesh rounds and softens the green ridges, so leave plenty of time and floor space for it to dry flat.
  • πŸ’‘Check each sham panel against your own pillow before cutting the fabric, because pillow sizes vary and the fabric pieces can be trimmed to match.

Every square you finish is one step closer to a bedroom that feels calm, tidy and a little bit special. 🧢 Take your time, keep a tray of finished motifs where you can admire them, and don't worry if your first few squares aren't perfect, because blocking works wonders. ✨ Once the last scallop is done and the shams are plumped, you'll have a set that looks like it came from a boutique but carries all the love of handmade work. Happy crocheting, and enjoy every cozy stitch! 🧡

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

How many squares do I need and how big will the bedspread be?

You need 48 motifs for a bedspread 6 squares wide and 8 long, which comes to roughly 162 x 214 cm (64 x 84 in) with the scalloped edging. Make another 12 motifs for two shams. If you want a different size, add or remove squares in pairs so the scallop count still works out evenly.

Can I use a different yarn weight for this pattern?

You can, but the pattern was designed around DK weight cotton and a hook of about 3.5 mm. Thicker yarn makes each square larger and uses more yarn, so the bedspread grows quickly. Make one complete motif first and measure it, then decide how many squares you need to reach your bed size.

Do I join the squares as I go or at the end?

The squares are joined after they're finished, using a green sl st through the BLO of both squares. Joining at the end lets you block every motif first, so all the squares match and the seams come out straight and neat.

My motifs came out smaller than 26 cm after blocking. What should I do?

Go up a hook size, or up 0.25 mm if you're only a little short, and remake one motif to check. Don't add extra rounds to fix the size, because the stitch counts in the mesh and edging are built around the exact 31 dc per side in Round 9.

Can I make the shams without sewing fabric backs?

Yes. Make 6 more motifs per sham, join them 2 x 3 the same way, then hold the front and back together and sc around through both layers, leaving one short side open for the pillow. It uses more yarn and time, but there's no sewing.

Is this a good first blanket for someone who knows granny squares?

If you're comfortable with granny squares and following corner increases, you'll do fine. The only slightly tricky parts are the two mesh rounds and keeping the edging counts right. Every other stitch is a simple dc, sc or sl st.