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Crochet Leaf Square Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern

Crochet Leaf Square Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern
3.9★Rating
12-15 HoursTime Needed
1.3KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Crochet Leaf Square Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern

Crochet Leaf Square Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This one is a wonderful heirloom-style gift for a wedding or a new home, and it looks just as lovely folded at the foot of a bed or draped over a sofa in the afternoon light.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Leaf Square Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern

I love how forgiving the square-by-square method is. A 160 cm bedspread doesn't feel scary when your current project is a palm-sized stack of mesh, and every finished square gives you a little win to keep going. The leaves are my favorite part because they're quick and satisfying: two rounds and a line of surface slip stitches, and it's honestly hard to stop at one. The mesh rounds turned out to be oddly soothing too, once you learn where the corners sit and let your hands find the rhythm.

Crochet Leaf Square Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern step 1 Crochet Leaf Square Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern step 2 Crochet Leaf Square Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern step 3 Crochet Leaf Square Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I made my first leaf square on a rainy weekend when I needed something to do with my hands, and I honestly didn't plan to make a whole bedspread. By square six I was hooked. There's a quiet rhythm to the mesh rounds, and then the leaves arrive and suddenly the square has personality.

My biggest tip is to cut out the guesswork on leaf placement. I lay all four leaves on the square with pins, then step back a good arm's length and check that the bases meet neatly at the middle and the tips point right toward the corners. Moving a pin takes ten seconds. Unpicking a sewn leaf takes much longer.

Color is where you can have fun. I love the dusty blue-grey, but a warm ivory looks wonderfully vintage, and sage green feels like a garden window. For a two-tone version, try making the leaves a shade darker than the mesh so they stand out more, or flip it and make the leaves paler for a soft frosted look.

One last thing: block every square before you join. It makes the seams almost effortless, and your spread lies flat on the bed.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Losing track of the corner triples in rounds 3 to 15 makes the square drift into a diamond, so drop a stitch marker into the middle dc of each corner triple and move it up every round.✗ Working into the ch1 spaces of the previous round instead of over them makes the mesh bunchy and the square too small, so always crochet the new ch1 across the old space and place dcs only into dcs.✗ Forgetting to skip the first dc of the previous round after the starting ch4 adds an extra post on that side, so the round won't reach its stitch count and one side ends up wider than the others.✗ Skipping the sc3tog at each junction in border round 1 leaves 62 stitches per square instead of 60, which breaks the scallop count, so check each side total before starting round 2.✗ Sewing the four leaves on without pinning first lets the bases drift apart or the tips tilt off the diagonal, so pin them with bases about 1 cm from the center and step back before stitching.✗ Joining the squares with a tight slip stitch seam makes the bedspread ripple and pull at the 4-way corners, so keep the seam loose and work it through the back loops of both squares only.

Crochet Leaf Square Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern

Picture a bedroom that feels calmer the moment you walk in. This crochet bedspread pattern gives you a soft dusty blue-grey coverlet built from airy lace squares, each topped with a cross of four sculpted leaves. A deep scalloped border frames the whole thing, and a pair of matching pillow shams finishes the set. It has the look of a treasured heirloom, and you get to stitch every inch of it yourself.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Leaf Square Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 2800 g of DK weight cotton yarn in dusty blue-grey for 30 bedspread squares, 120 leaves, joining, and the scalloped border
  • 02
    Approximately 800 g of the same dusty blue-grey DK weight cotton yarn for the two pillow shams (8 squares, 8 large leaves, and 2 borders)
  • 03
    A few extra meters of the same blue-grey yarn for sewing the leaves onto the squares

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4 mm crochet hook (approximate size, adjust to match your gauge)
  • 02
    Tapestry needle with a large eye
  • 03
    Sharp scissors
  • 04
    At least 8 stitch markers for marking corners
  • 05
    Rust-proof pins for placing leaves and blocking
  • 06
    Blocking mats or a clean towel-covered board
  • 07
    Measuring tape
  • 08
    Two plain cushion covers about 65 cm (26 in) square in white or a matching shade, to back the shams
  • 09
    Sewing needle and matching thread for attaching the sham fronts

Progress Tracker

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— 1. Lace Mesh Square (make 38) :

Info :

Each square measures about 30 cm (12 in) after blocking. The finished bedspread is roughly 160 x 190 cm (63 x 75 in) with the border, and each pillow sham front is roughly 70 x 70 cm (27.5 in). You'll make 38 squares in total: 30 for the bedspread (5 across, 6 long) and 8 for the shams.

Info :

Corner shorthand: [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc means dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1 all worked into the same dc. Work every ch1 over the ch1 sp below instead of into it, and always skip the first dc of the previous round because the starting ch4 replaces it. Every round adds 8 dc, so the round number times 8 gives your dc count.

Round 1 :

Make a MR, ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), [dc in MR, ch1] x7, sl st to the 3rd ch of ch4 and pull the MR closed (8 dc, 8 ch1 sps)

Round 2 :

ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), skip first dc, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x1, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x1, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x1, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc; sl st to 3rd ch of ch4 (16 dc, 16 ch1 sps)

Round 3 :

ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), skip first dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x1, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x3, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x3, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x3, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x1; sl st to 3rd ch of ch4 (24 dc, 24 ch1 sps)

Round 4 :

ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), skip first dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x2, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x5, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x5, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x5, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x2; sl st to 3rd ch of ch4 (32 dc, 32 ch1 sps)

Round 5 :

ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), skip first dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x3, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x7, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x7, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x7, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x3; sl st to 3rd ch of ch4 (40 dc, 40 ch1 sps)

Round 6 :

ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), skip first dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x4, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x9, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x9, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x9, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x4; sl st to 3rd ch of ch4 (48 dc, 48 ch1 sps)

Round 7 :

ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), skip first dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x5, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x11, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x11, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x11, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x5; sl st to 3rd ch of ch4 (56 dc, 56 ch1 sps)

Round 8 :

ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), skip first dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x6, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x13, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x13, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x13, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x6; sl st to 3rd ch of ch4 (64 dc, 64 ch1 sps)

Round 9 :

ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), skip first dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x7, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x15, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x15, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x15, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x7; sl st to 3rd ch of ch4 (72 dc, 72 ch1 sps)

Round 10 :

ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), skip first dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x8, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x17, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x17, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x17, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x8; sl st to 3rd ch of ch4 (80 dc, 80 ch1 sps)

Round 11 :

ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), skip first dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x9, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x19, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x19, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x19, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x9; sl st to 3rd ch of ch4 (88 dc, 88 ch1 sps)

Round 12 :

ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), skip first dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x10, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x21, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x21, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x21, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x10; sl st to 3rd ch of ch4 (96 dc, 96 ch1 sps)

Round 13 :

ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), skip first dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x11, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x23, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x23, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x23, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x11; sl st to 3rd ch of ch4 (104 dc, 104 ch1 sps)

Round 14 :

ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), skip first dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x12, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x25, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x25, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x25, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x12; sl st to 3rd ch of ch4 (112 dc, 112 ch1 sps)

Round 15 :

ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), skip first dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x13, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x27, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x27, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x27, [dc, ch1] x3 in next dc, [dc in next dc, ch1] x13; sl st to 3rd ch of ch4 (120 dc, 120 ch1 sps, 30 sps along each side)

Round 16 :

ch1, sc in same st, then sc in the next ch1 sp and in each following dc and ch1 sp around, working 3 sc in the middle dc of each of the 4 corner triples; sl st to first sc and fasten off (248 sc, with 59 sc between each pair of corner centers and 3 sc in each corner)

— 2. Leaf (make 120, four for each bedspread square) :

Round 1 :

ch21, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 8 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next 2 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Working along the other side of the foundation ch, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 8 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next 2 ch; sl st to first sc (42)

Round 2 :

ch1, sc in first st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next 18 sts, sc in next st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next 18 sts; sl st to first sc (46)

Vein :

Fasten off, leaving a 40 cm (16 in) tail for sewing. With RS facing, join yarn at the pointed tip and make 20 surface sl st down the center of the leaf to the base, inserting the hook between the sc of the two sides. Fasten off and weave in the vein ends on the WS. The leaf measures about 15 cm (6 in) long.

— 3. Large Leaf (make 8, four for each pillow sham) :

Round 1 :

ch31, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 16 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next 3 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Working along the other side of the foundation ch, sc in next 3 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 16 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next 3 ch; sl st to first sc (62)

Round 2 :

ch1, sc in first st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next 28 sts, sc in next st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next 28 sts; sl st to first sc (66)

Vein :

Fasten off, leaving a 50 cm (20 in) tail for sewing. With RS facing, join yarn at the pointed tip and make 30 surface sl st down the center of the leaf to the base. Fasten off and weave in the ends on the WS. The large leaf measures about 22 cm (8.5 in) long.

— 4. Joining the Bedspread :

Info :

Sew the leaves onto every square and block them before joining (see assembly). Each square edge runs from one corner center sc to the next corner center sc and measures 63 sts. Use the same seam for every join.

Strip :

Hold 2 squares with WS together, corners matching. Starting in the center sc of one corner and ending in the center sc of the next corner, sl st through the back loops of both squares across all 63 sts. Add 3 more squares the same way to make a strip of 5 squares. Make 6 strips in total.

Joining Strips :

Join the strips with the same seam, 63 sts along each square edge. Where four corners meet, end the seam in the shared corner centers and carry straight on into the next edge, so the crossing stays flat. Finish with a panel 5 squares wide and 6 squares long.

— 5. Scalloped Border :

Info :

To make the spread wider or longer, add squares in whole units. For each extra square on a side, add one more [sc3tog over next 3 sts, sc in next 59 sts] to that side in Round 1 (60 more sc), 30 more [ch1, skip next sc, dc in next sc] repeats in Round 2, and 6 more [skip next 4 sts, 9 dc in next st, skip next 4 sts, sc in next st] repeats in Round 3. The 5-square side is the short side and the 6-square side is the long side.

Round 1 :

Join yarn in the center sc of any outer corner. ch1, (sc, ch2, sc) in same st. Along the 5-square side: sc in next 60 sts, [sc3tog over next 3 sts, sc in next 59 sts] x3, sc3tog over next 3 sts, sc in next 60 sts (301 sc). Work (sc, ch2, sc) in the next corner center sc. Along the 6-square side: sc in next 60 sts, [sc3tog over next 3 sts, sc in next 59 sts] x4, sc3tog over next 3 sts, sc in next 60 sts (361 sc). Corner. Repeat the 5-square side (301 sc), corner, and the 6-square side (361 sc); sl st to first sc (1332 sc and 4 ch2 corner sps)

Round 2 :

sl st into the first corner ch2 sp, ch3 (counts as dc), ch3, dc in same sp. Along the 5-square side: dc in next sc, [ch1, skip next sc, dc in next sc] x150 (151 dc). Work (dc, ch3, dc) in the next corner ch2 sp. Along the 6-square side: dc in next sc, [ch1, skip next sc, dc in next sc] x180 (181 dc). Corner. Repeat the 5-square side, corner, and the 6-square side; sl st to top of beginning ch3 (672 dc, 660 ch1 sps, 4 ch3 corner sps)

Round 3 :

ch1, sc in same st (first corner dc), 7 dc in the ch3 sp, sc in next dc. Along the 5-square side: sc in next dc, [skip next 4 sts, 9 dc in next st, skip next 4 sts, sc in next st] x30 (301 sts). Corner: sc in next dc, 7 dc in the ch3 sp, sc in next dc. Along the 6-square side: sc in next dc, [skip next 4 sts, 9 dc in next st, skip next 4 sts, sc in next st] x36 (361 sts). Corner. Repeat the 5-square side, corner, and the 6-square side; sl st to first sc and fasten off (1360 sts in total, 30 scallops on each short side and 36 on each long side)

— 6. Pillow Sham (make 2) :

Info :

Each sham front is a panel of 4 squares in a 2 x 2 block, topped with 4 large leaves and finished with the same scalloped border. The sham fronts finish at about 70 x 70 cm (27.5 in). Because each side is 2 squares long, every side has 121 sts in Round 1.

Panel :

Join 4 squares in a 2 x 2 block using the same 63 st back loop seam as the bedspread, ending each seam in the corner centers and carrying through the middle crossing.

Round 1 :

Join yarn in the center sc of any outer corner. ch1, (sc, ch2, sc) in same st. Along each side: sc in next 60 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, sc in next 60 sts (121 sc). Work (sc, ch2, sc) in each of the next 3 corner center sc, with a side before each; sl st to first sc (492 sc and 4 ch2 corner sps)

Round 2 :

sl st into the first corner ch2 sp, ch3 (counts as dc), ch3, dc in same sp. Along each side: dc in next sc, [ch1, skip next sc, dc in next sc] x60 (61 dc). Work (dc, ch3, dc) in each next corner ch2 sp, with a side before each; sl st to top of beginning ch3 (252 dc, 240 ch1 sps, 4 ch3 corner sps)

Round 3 :

ch1, sc in same st (first corner dc), 7 dc in the ch3 sp, sc in next dc. Along each side: sc in next dc, [skip next 4 sts, 9 dc in next st, skip next 4 sts, sc in next st] x12 (121 sts). Corner: sc in next dc, 7 dc in the ch3 sp, sc in next dc. Repeat for all 4 sides and corners; sl st to first sc and fasten off (520 sts in total, 12 scallops per side)

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in all ends on the WS of each square, then wet block every square to 30 cm (12 in) by pinning the 4 corners first and the edges every 5 cm (2 in), and leave them flat until completely dry.
  • For each bedspread square, pin 4 small leaves with their bases about 1 cm (0.5 in) from the middle of the square, tips pointing diagonally toward the 4 corners, so they form an X. Stand back to check the angles, then whip stitch around each leaf edge every 2 to 3 sts and stitch the bases down together.
  • Lay out 5 squares across and 6 squares down, keeping the leaf crosses all facing the same way, then join them into 6 strips and join the strips with the 63 st back loop seam, working the crossings at the 4-way corners without breaking the yarn.
  • Work the scalloped border Rounds 1 to 3 around the whole panel, placing a stitch marker at each outer corner center sc so every corner gets (sc, ch2, sc) in Round 1, then block the whole spread flat and pin each scallop point for a crisp edge.
  • For each sham, join 4 squares in a 2 x 2 block, and pin the 4 large leaves with bases meeting at the center crossing and tips pointing diagonally toward each corner, about 3 cm (1.2 in) from the base to the seam center, then whip stitch them on.
  • Work the sham border Rounds 1 to 3, block the panel to about 70 x 70 cm (27.5 in), place it over a plain cushion cover, and slip stitch the inner edge of Round 1 to the cover along three sides, leaving the fourth side open to insert the pillow.

Important Notes

  • 💡Check your gauge before committing: after Round 5, a square should measure about 10 cm (4 in) across. If it's smaller, go up a hook size, and if it's larger, go down a hook size.
  • 💡Place a stitch marker in the middle dc of every corner triple in Rounds 2 to 15 and move it up each round, which keeps all four corners symmetrical.
  • 💡The ch4 at the start of each round counts as dc and ch1, so the sl st at the end always goes into the 3rd ch of that ch4, never into the ch1.
  • 💡Make the squares in batches of 5 or 6, so a full strip is ready at once and you can see how the bedspread is coming together.
  • 💡Keep your leaf tension a little tighter than the mesh, as loose leaves curl and sag against the open ground and don't sit flat after blocking.
  • 💡Weigh your yarn before you start and buy a few extra balls of the same dye lot, since a slightly different blue-grey shows clearly across a lace bedspread.
  • 💡Always count the stitches on your final border sides before starting Round 2, as correct counts of 301 and 361 make the scallops fall evenly.

Your finished spread is going to be the piece people run their hands over when they walk into the room. Take your time, enjoy each square as it comes off the hook, and don't be surprised if you start planning a second set in another shade before the first one is even blocked. Gift it to someone you love or keep it all for yourself. Either way, you've made something that will be around for years. Happy hooking! 🧶✨🧵

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FAQs

Can I use a different yarn weight for this bedspread?

You can, but the stitch counts are written for DK cotton and a roughly 4 mm hook, which gives 30 cm squares. Thinner yarn gives smaller squares and a smaller spread, while worsted makes everything larger and heavier. Check Round 5 of a test square: it should measure about 10 cm (4 in) across before you go on.

How do I make the bedspread bigger or smaller?

Add or remove whole squares. Each square is 30 cm (12 in). For every extra square on a side, add one more sc3tog and 59 sc group to Round 1 of the border, 30 more ch1 and dc repeats to Round 2, and 6 more scallop repeats to Round 3.

Do I have to sew the leaves on, or can I crochet them into the squares?

The leaves are made separately and sewn on so the mesh stays open and flat, and so you can place each leaf exactly where you want. Pinning all four first and checking the diagonals saves a lot of re-sewing, and the leaves hold their shape well after blocking.

How do I keep the corners square in the mesh rounds?

Mark the middle dc of each corner triple with a stitch marker and move it up every round. Each corner gets dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc, ch1 in one stitch. If a round count is off by 8 or more, one corner has probably been missed.

How much yarn will I need for the bedspread and the shams?

Plan on about 2800 g of DK cotton for the bedspread and roughly 800 g for the two shams, though your tension will change this. Weigh your first finished square with its leaves and multiply by the number of squares to check your total before you run short.

Is this a good first lace project?

It's rated intermediate. The mesh is only dc and ch1, which is gentle, but you'll need to follow the corner counts, shape the leaves, sew them on, and join squares neatly. If you're newer to lace, make 2 or 3 squares first, then decide if you want the full bedspread.