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Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Shams Pattern

Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Shams Pattern
4.4★Rating
12-15 HoursTime Needed
1.5KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Shams Pattern

Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Shams Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This set makes a wonderful wedding or housewarming gift, and it looks just as good layered over a plain duvet as it does on a guest room bed made up for visitors.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Shams Pattern

I love that every square is a tiny finished project, so you get a little win again and again instead of waiting months to see progress. The rounds stick in your head after the first motif, which means you can chat, watch a show, and keep right on stitching. And nothing beats pulling the last point of the edging into place, then stepping back to see the whole bed come together.

Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Shams Pattern step 1 Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Shams Pattern step 2 Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Shams Pattern step 3 Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Shams Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I made my first square-by-square bedspread for my sister’s guest room, and I honestly thought I’d never get through it. Then I started counting squares like a little challenge, three a week, and somewhere around the thirtieth one the pile on my sofa started to look like something real.

My favorite part is the moment the mesh rounds come together. You hit round 6 and suddenly the small solid center has a lacy halo around it. Keep your chains loose and relaxed there, because tight chains pull the square into a diamond and no amount of pinning fully fixes that.

A tip that saved me: wet block all the squares in one evening, flat on towels, so the joining day feels almost effortless. I stitched the strips in one big batch, then spent a lazy afternoon on the edging. The pointed edging goes by faster than you’d think, and it’s the part everybody notices first.

If cream feels too plain, try soft sage or a dusty blue for the shams only. A different color on the pillows makes the bed look styled without changing the main cover at all.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ The mesh rounds 6, 7, 10 and 11 depend on skipping exactly one stitch each time, so if a side ends with the wrong stitch count, the corner will drift into a diamond; recount to 13, 15, 21 or 23 sts before the next corner.✗ Where four motifs meet it is tempting to work two separate sc, but this leaves a small hole at the junction, so work one single sc through all four corner sps and keep the seam flat.✗ The edging arches need exactly 209 sts on each long side and 157 sts on each short side, so if your motifs came out with extra or missing dc, recount each outer edge before round 2 or the arches will ripple.✗ Squares blocked to different sizes make the seams pucker and the lace pull sideways, so pin every motif to the same 25 cm (10 in) square and let it dry fully before joining.✗ The pointed edging curls inward as it dries if it isn’t pinned, so push a pin through the tr tip of every point when you block and wait until completely dry before unpinning.✗ On the lumbar cushion, working both loops instead of the back loop only on any row hides the ribbing and leaves a flat stripe, so check every row is blo, especially the row after a color or yarn change.✗ When sewing the sham back to the front, it is easy to stretch the back panel as you go, so pin the corners and the middle of each side first and ease the dc rows evenly to the front edging.

Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Shams Pattern

Imagine a bed dressed in soft ivory lace, every square worked in cotton with open mesh bands around a snug solid center. This crochet bedspread pattern builds one motif at a time, so you can stitch it on the sofa, on a train, or wherever your day takes you. You’ll join the squares into a generous cover, finish the edges with a row of pointed edging, and then make the matching pillow shams and a ribbed lumbar cushion with pom-pom ends. A whole bedroom set made by your own hands.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Shams Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 2.4 kg of DK or light worsted weight cotton yarn in creamy ivory for the 48 bedspread motifs and the pointed edging
  • 02
    Approximately 1.1 kg of the same creamy ivory cotton yarn for the 12 sham motifs, the sham edgings, and the two sham backs
  • 03
    Approximately 150 g of DK weight cotton yarn in a slightly lighter ecru cream for the two ribbed lumbar cushion panels and the pom-poms

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook, approximately 4 mm (US G-6), adjusted to reach 25 cm (10 in) per motif
  • 02
    Tapestry needle for weaving in ends and sewing the shams and cushion
  • 03
    Sharp scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers to mark the first corner of each round
  • 05
    Rustproof pins for blocking and for pinning pieces together
  • 06
    Blocking mats or a large towel-covered board
  • 07
    Measuring tape
  • 08
    A strip of cardboard about 3 cm (1.2 in) wide for making pom-poms
  • 09
    Two pillow inserts, approximately 50 x 75 cm (20 x 30 in), for the shams
  • 10
    One lumbar cushion insert, approximately 45 x 22 cm (18 x 9 in)

Progress Tracker

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— 1. Square Motif (make 60) :

Info :

Each motif measures approximately 25 cm (10 in) square after blocking. Make 60 in total: 48 for the bedspread, laid out 6 across by 8 down for a finished size of approximately 150 x 200 cm (59 x 79 in), and 12 for the two sham fronts. Work every round with the right side facing and do not turn. Every round after round 2 starts with a sl st into the next ch-2 sp. To make the bedspread bigger or smaller, add or remove motifs two rows or two columns at a time, so the edging repeat still fits. Each extra pair of motifs adds 52 sts along that edge, which is 13 extra edging arches.

Round 1 :

ch 4, join with sl st in the first ch to form a ring. ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in the ring, ch 2, *3 dc in the ring, ch 2; rep from * 2 more times, join with sl st to the top of the starting ch 3. (12 dc and four ch-2 sps)

Round 2 :

sl st in each of the next 2 dc and in the next ch-2 sp. ch 3 (counts as first dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *dc in each of the next 3 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in each of the last 3 dc, join with sl st to the top of the starting ch 3. (20 dc; 5 sts along each side between the corner sps)

Round 3 :

sl st in the next ch-2 sp. ch 3 (counts as first dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *dc in each of the next 5 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in each of the last 5 dc, join with sl st to the top of the starting ch 3. (28 dc; 7 sts along each side)

Round 4 :

sl st in the next ch-2 sp. ch 3 (counts as first dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *[dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc] 3 times, dc in next dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, [dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc] 3 times, dc in the last st, join with sl st to the top of the starting ch 3. (24 dc and 12 ch-1 sps; 9 sts along each side)

Round 5 :

sl st in the next ch-2 sp. ch 3 (counts as first dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *dc in each of the next 9 sts (one dc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp), (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in each of the last 9 sts, join with sl st to the top of the starting ch 3. (44 dc; 11 sts along each side)

Round 6 :

sl st in the next ch-2 sp. ch 3 (counts as first dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *[ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st] 5 times, ch 1, sk next st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, [ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st] 5 times, ch 1, sk the last st, join with sl st to the top of the starting ch 3. (28 dc and 24 ch-1 sps; 13 sts along each side)

Round 7 :

sl st in the next ch-2 sp. ch 3 (counts as first dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *[dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp] 6 times, dc in next dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, [dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp] 6 times, dc in the last dc, join with sl st to the top of the starting ch 3. (36 dc and 24 ch-1 sps; 15 sts along each side)

Round 8 :

sl st in the next ch-2 sp. ch 3 (counts as first dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *dc in each of the next 15 sts (one dc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp), (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in each of the last 15 sts, join with sl st to the top of the starting ch 3. (68 dc; 17 sts along each side)

Round 9 :

sl st in the next ch-2 sp. ch 3 (counts as first dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *dc in each of the next 17 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in each of the last 17 dc, join with sl st to the top of the starting ch 3. (76 dc; 19 sts along each side)

Round 10 :

sl st in the next ch-2 sp. ch 3 (counts as first dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *[ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st] 9 times, ch 1, sk next st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, [ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st] 9 times, ch 1, sk the last st, join with sl st to the top of the starting ch 3. (44 dc and 40 ch-1 sps; 21 sts along each side)

Round 11 :

sl st in the next ch-2 sp. ch 3 (counts as first dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *[dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp] 10 times, dc in next dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, [dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp] 10 times, dc in the last dc, join with sl st to the top of the starting ch 3. (52 dc and 40 ch-1 sps; 23 sts along each side)

Round 12 :

sl st in the next ch-2 sp. ch 3 (counts as first dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. *dc in each of the next 23 sts (one dc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp), (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp; rep from * 2 more times, dc in each of the last 23 sts, join with sl st to the top of the starting ch 3. Fasten off and weave in ends. (100 dc; 25 dc along each side between the corner sps)

— 2. Joining the Bedspread :

Info :

Lay out the 48 blocked motifs in 6 columns of 8, with every motif turned the same way. Join the motifs into 6 strips of 8, then join the strips side by side. Keep your joining stitches loose and even, and use the same yarn and hook as the motifs.

Join Motifs :

Hold two motifs with wrong sides together, matching the corner sps and the 25 dc along the edge. Join yarn with a sc worked through the corner sp of both motifs at once, sc through the back loops only of each pair of dc across (25 sc), then sc through the pair of corner sps at the far end. (27 sc along each seam) Join 8 motifs this way to make one strip, and make 6 strips.

Join Strips :

Place two strips side by side with wrong sides together and join them with the same seam: sc through the corner sps, 25 sc through the back loops of the dc pairs, then sc at the next junction. At every spot where four motifs meet, work one sc through all four corner sps at once so the junction lies flat. Join all 6 strips this way.

— 3. Bedspread Edging :

Info :

The edging is worked all the way around the finished bedspread in three rounds. The counts below assume 8 motifs along each long side and 6 along each short side, so check your motif edges each have 25 dc before you begin.

Round 1 :

Join yarn with sl st in any outer corner sp, with the right side facing and a long side ahead of you. ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the same sp. *sc in each dc and each joining st along the long side (207 sc), (sc, ch 2, sc) in the next corner sp, sc in each dc and each joining st along the short side (155 sc), (sc, ch 2, sc) in the next corner sp; rep from * once more, but at the end of the last short side join with sl st to the first sc instead of working another corner. (732 sc and four ch-2 corner sps)

Round 2 :

sl st in the ch-2 corner sp, ch 1, sc in the same sp. Long side: ch 3, sc in next st, [ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next st] 52 times, ch 3, sc in the next ch-2 corner sp. Short side: ch 3, sc in next st, [ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next st] 39 times, ch 3, sc in the next ch-2 corner sp. Work a second long side and a second short side the same way, but after the last arch of the last short side, ch 3 and join with sl st to the first corner sc instead of working a corner sc. (190 ch-3 sps)

Round 3 :

sl st in the next ch-3 sp, ch 1, (sc, dc, tr, dc, sc) in the same sp. Work (sc, dc, tr, dc, sc) in each remaining ch-3 sp around, join with sl st to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends. (190 points, 950 sts)

— 4. Sham Front (make 2) :

Info :

Each sham front is 2 motifs across by 3 down and measures approximately 50 x 75 cm (20 x 30 in), sized for a standard bed pillow. Use the 12 remaining motifs, 6 for each front.

Join Motifs :

Join 3 motifs in a strip using the same seam as the bedspread (27 sc per seam), and make a second strip. Then join the two strips along the long edge, working one sc through all four corner sps where the motifs meet.

Round 1 :

Join yarn with sl st in any outer corner sp, with a 3-motif side ahead of you. ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the same sp. *sc in each dc across the first motif, 2 sc in the joining st, sc in each dc across the second motif, 2 sc in the next joining st, sc in each dc across the third motif (79 sc), (sc, ch 2, sc) in the next corner sp, sc in each dc across the first motif, sc in the joining st, sc in each dc across the second motif (51 sc), (sc, ch 2, sc) in the next corner sp; rep from * once more, but at the end of the last short side join with sl st to the first sc. (268 sc and four ch-2 corner sps)

Round 2 :

sl st in the ch-2 corner sp, ch 1, sc in the same sp. Long side: ch 3, sc in next st, [ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next st] 20 times, ch 3, sc in the next ch-2 corner sp. Short side: ch 3, sc in next st, [ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next st] 13 times, ch 3, sc in the next ch-2 corner sp. Work a second long side and a second short side the same way, but after the last arch of the last short side, ch 3 and join with sl st to the first corner sc. (74 ch-3 sps)

Round 3 :

sl st in the next ch-3 sp, ch 1, (sc, dc, tr, dc, sc) in the same sp. Work (sc, dc, tr, dc, sc) in each remaining ch-3 sp around, join with sl st to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends. (74 points, 370 sts)

— 5. Sham Back (make 2) :

Info :

The back is a plain dc rectangle that is sewn to the front, so the lace stays the star. It should measure approximately 52 x 77 cm (20.5 x 30.5 in). Measure it against your finished front and add or remove rows until the length matches.

Row 1 :

ch 78, dc in the 4th ch from hook (the first 3 ch count as a dc) and in each ch across. (76 sts)

Row 2-70 :

ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, dc in each dc across, dc in the top of the turning ch. (76 sts) Fasten off after the last row and weave in ends.

— 6. Lumbar Cushion Panels (make 2) :

Info :

Each panel is worked lengthwise in blo sc rows, which makes fine ribs that run along the long side of the cushion. A panel measures approximately 45 x 22 cm (18 x 9 in) when worked in the lighter ecru cream yarn.

Row 1 :

ch 73, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (72 sc)

Row 2-36 :

ch 1, turn, sc blo in each st across. (72 sc) Fasten off after row 36 and weave in ends.

— 7. Pom-poms (make 12) :

Info :

You need 12 small pom-poms, each approximately 2.5 cm (1 in) across, made with the ecru cream yarn. Six go along each short end of the cushion.

Pom-pom :

Wrap the yarn about 30 times around a piece of cardboard 3 cm (1.2 in) wide. Slide the loops off carefully, tie a long strand tightly around the middle and knot it twice, leaving two tails about 20 cm (8 in) long. Cut through all the loops, fluff the pom-pom, and trim it into a neat round, keeping the two tails for sewing.

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in every end on the motifs, then wet block each of the 60 squares by pinning it to a 25 cm (10 in) square on your mat, and let it dry completely before you start joining.
  • Join the 48 bedspread motifs into 6 strips of 8, then join the strips side by side, working one sc through all four corner sps at each junction, and check that every motif faces the same direction before sewing the last strip.
  • After the edging is done, wet block the whole bedspread in sections on a large flat surface, and push a pin through the tr tip of each of the 190 points so the points dry crisp and straight.
  • For each sham, place the back panel against the wrong side of the front and pin the corners and middle of each side just inside the round 1 sc line. Whip stitch both long sides and one short side, leaving one short side open for the pillow insert.
  • Sew the two cushion panels with wrong sides together using a whip stitch, going along both long sides and one short end, then slide in the insert and sew the second short end closed.
  • Sew the pom-poms to both short ends of the cushion, placing one at rows 3, 9, 15, 21, 27 and 33 along each end, and knot the tails twice on the inside of the seam before trimming.
  • Give the finished shams and cushion a final light steam, holding the iron above the lace so the points and ribs keep their shape.

Important Notes

  • 💡Make one motif first and block it before you commit to the whole set. It should measure about 25 cm (10 in), and if it’s bigger or smaller, change your hook size by half a millimeter or so, because the edging counts depend on 25 dc per side.
  • 💡Buy all your cotton at once and check the dye lot, since creamy ivory shades can vary slightly between batches and the difference shows once the squares are joined.
  • 💡Use a stitch marker in the first corner sp of every round so you always know where you started, especially in the mesh rounds where the corners are less obvious.
  • 💡Cotton is heavy, so assemble the bedspread in strips and rest it on a table or your lap while joining. A full-size cover dragging off your knees will stretch the seams.
  • 💡Keep a tally of finished motifs on paper. With 60 squares, it’s easy to lose count, and you’ll want exactly 48 for the bedspread and 12 for the shams.
  • 💡Block the edging firmly. The pointed tips only hold their shape when they are pinned out and left to dry fully flat.
  • 💡Wash the finished set gently by hand or on a wool cycle in cool water, and dry it flat to keep the lace from stretching.

Your bedroom is about to feel a whole lot calmer! 🧶 Once the last point of the edging is blocked and the shams are plumped against the headboard, you’ll have a set that looks like it came from a boutique, only it carries every hour of care you put in. Take your time, enjoy the rhythm of each square, and save the finished set for the best morning light. ✨ Happy stitching, and may your tension stay even and your tea stay hot! 🧵

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Can I use a thicker yarn to make the bedspread faster?

You can, but the pattern is designed around DK or light worsted cotton and a hook of about 4 mm. A thicker yarn makes each square much bigger than 25 cm (10 in), and the bedspread comes out far larger unless you reduce the number of motifs. The edging counts also change, so make a swatch and adjust before you buy the yarn.

How do I make the bedspread fit a single or a king bed?

Each motif is about 25 cm (10 in), so add or remove whole motifs. Change rows or columns two at a time, as that keeps the edging arch repeat of 4 sts working. For a single bed, try 4 motifs across and 8 down. For a king, try 8 across and 8 down.

Where do the corners meet when joining four squares?

Work one sc through all four corner sps at once. That single stitch holds the junction closed and stops the gaps that appear when you work two stitches over each other. Keep it loose enough that the seam lies flat.

Do I need to block the squares before joining them?

Yes. Cotton lace relaxes a lot when wet, and blocking each motif to the same 25 cm (10 in) size makes the seams line up and keeps the 25 dc edges even for the edging. Blocking afterwards alone won’t fix squares that differ in size.

Can I skip the sham backs and use fabric instead?

Yes. A cotton fabric back sewn in an envelope style works well and saves yarn. Cut it about 2 cm (0.8 in) larger than the front on each side so the seam sits just inside the round 1 sc line.

How do I stop the pom-poms from coming off the cushion?

Tie each pom-pom tightly in the center and sew it through the seam edge with both tails, then knot the tails twice on the inside. Trim the tails only after the second knot, and give every pom-pom a gentle tug before you clip them.