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Crochet Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern

Crochet Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern
4.7★Rating
7-9 HoursTime Needed
1.6KMade This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🎄

Holiday Cheer

Festive fun for the season, bringing handmade magic to celebrations and creating new family traditions.

About This Crochet Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern

Crochet Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Lay it down the middle of a dinner table, run it along a mantel or sideboard, or wrap it up as a hostess gift for someone who loves handmade holiday decor.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern

I adore how forgiving the tree is. Once you’ve found the rhythm of those increase rows, you can nearly stitch it while chatting with a friend. The bit that makes me smile most is the border, because those cream fans ruffle out just enough to look like piped frosting. And the bows? I always save them for last as a little reward after all the sewing is done.

Crochet Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern step 1 Crochet Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern step 2 Crochet Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern step 3 Crochet Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

The first time I made one of these trees, I was convinced the stepped sides would be fiddly. They weren’t. The rhythm is simple: a few rows of single increases, then one row where you double up at both ends, and the branch tier pops out like magic. I stitched my first tree on a rainy Sunday and had the border done before the kettle went cold for the second time.

My best tip is to pick your pearl placement before you start sewing. I lay all of them out on the finished tree with pins first, nudging them until the pattern looks scattered but balanced, then stitch them down one by one. It takes patience, but it makes the trees look sparkly rather than lumpy.

I also love swapping colors. A deep navy tree with silver beads and a pale blue edge feels wintery, and a cream tree with gold beads and a soft pink border is lovely for a gentler holiday table. Whatever you choose, keep the three colors clearly different so the lace border stays crisp against the tree.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ On the step-out rows 5, 9, and 13, it’s easy to add the double increase at only one end, so check that both the first two and last two stitches get 2 sc each or the tier corners will look soft and lopsided.✗ The tip of the tree can pucker when you work the 3 sc at the top in Round 1, so keep that stitch loose and place all three right in the point rather than splitting them down the sides.✗ The red edge can turn wavy if Round 4 is worked tightly over the dc fans of Round 3, so keep your tension relaxed and pin each scallop flat when you block.✗ The bows look lumpy when the knot strip is wrapped loosely, so pull it snug around the pinched center of the loops and sew its two ends together at the back.✗ Overlapping the motifs too far when joining shortens the runner and hides the tree tips, so match up only the center 20 stitches of the red edges and lay the runner flat to check the length before sewing.

Crochet Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern

Picture your holiday table dressed in a parade of little green trees, each one wrapped in a lacy cream frame and finished with a ruffled red edge. You’ll crochet six matching tree motifs, stitch them into one long runner, and tie each tree off with a plump crocheted bow. Pearl beads scattered across the branches catch the candlelight beautifully. It’s a project that rewards you at every stage, from the first tiny tip to the very last bead.

Intermediate 7-9 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    About 90g of fine cotton thread (roughly size 5 crochet thread) in cream for the lace border
  • 02
    About 50g of fine cotton thread in deep evergreen for the six tree centers
  • 03
    About 40g of fine cotton thread in cranberry red for the ruffled edging and the six bows
  • 04
    About 70 small round pearl beads in ivory, roughly 3 to 4 mm, for the tree decorations

— Tools Required

  • 01
    1.75 mm to 2 mm steel or aluminum crochet hook (approximate, match your thread gauge)
  • 02
    Tapestry needle for weaving in ends and joining motifs
  • 03
    Beading needle and strong sewing thread in cream for attaching the pearls
  • 04
    Small sharp scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers to mark corners and the tip
  • 06
    Rustproof pins for shaping and positioning beads
  • 07
    Blocking mat or foam boards
  • 08
    Spray bottle of water or a little fabric stiffener for blocking

Progress Tracker

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— 1. Tree Center (make 6) :

Info :

Each finished motif measures approximately 12 cm (4.7 in) wide and 13 cm (5.1 in) tall, and the joined runner is approximately 68 cm (26.8 in) long. To lengthen it, make one extra motif for every 11.5 cm (4.5 in) you want to add. The foundation stays at ch 2, so no chain adjustment is needed. Chain 1 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch. The tree is worked in rows and turned at the end of every row.

Row 1 :

With green, ch 2. Work 3 sc in the 2nd ch from hook (3).

Row 2 :

Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st (5).

Row 3 :

Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st (7).

Row 4 :

Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in last st (9).

Row 5 :

Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in each of first 2 sts, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in each of last 2 sts (13). This starts the second tier.

Row 6 :

Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in last st (15).

Row 7 :

Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in last st (17).

Row 8 :

Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in last st (19).

Row 9 :

Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in each of first 2 sts, sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in each of last 2 sts (23). This starts the third tier.

Row 10 :

Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 21 sts, 2 sc in last st (25).

Row 11 :

Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 23 sts, 2 sc in last st (27).

Row 12 :

Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 25 sts, 2 sc in last st (29).

Row 13 :

Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in each of first 2 sts, sc in next 25 sts, 2 sc in each of last 2 sts (33). This starts the wide bottom tier.

Row 14 :

Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 31 sts, 2 sc in last st (35).

Row 15 :

Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 33 sts, 2 sc in last st (37).

Row 16 :

Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 35 sts, 2 sc in last st (39).

Row 17 :

Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across (39). Do not turn. Fasten off green, leaving a short tail to weave in.

— 2. Lace Border and Ruffled Edge (make 6) :

Info :

Hold the tree with the wide bottom edge facing you. Join cream with a sl st in the last st of Row 17, which becomes the first bottom corner. The tip of the tree is the point where Row 1 begins, so work the 3 sc there into that point itself. If the tip feels a little unclear to you, any firm spot at the very top works fine, as the border hides it.

Round 1 :

Ch 1, 3 sc in same st (corner), sc in next 37 sts along the bottom, 3 sc in the last st of Row 17 (corner), then sc in each of the 16 row-ends up the side from Row 16 to Row 1, 3 sc in the tip, sc in each of the 16 row-ends down the other side from Row 1 to Row 16. Sl st to first sc to join (78).

Round 2 :

Ch 1, sc in next st, ch 3, sk 2 sts, repeat from * to * 26 times in total. Sl st to first sc to join (26 sc and 26 ch-3 sps).

Round 3 :

Sl st into the first ch-3 sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3 dc in same sp, sc in next sc, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, repeat until you have worked into all 26 ch-3 sps, ending with an sc in the first sc of Round 2. Sl st to top of the starting ch 3 to join. Fasten off cream (130 sts, made of 26 dc fans and 26 sc).

Round 4 :

Join red with a sl st in any sc. Ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around. Sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends (130).

— 3. Bow Loops (make 6) :

Row 1 :

With red, ch 25. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (24).

Row 2-6 :

Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across (24). Fasten off, leaving a 30 cm (12 in) tail for sewing.

— 4. Bow Knot (make 6) :

Row 1 :

With red, ch 5. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (4).

Row 2-10 :

Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across (4). Fasten off, leaving a 20 cm (8 in) tail for sewing.

— 5. Bow Tails (make 12) :

Row 1 :

With red, ch 7. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (6).

Row 2-8 :

Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across (6).

Row 9 :

Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog (4).

Row 10 :

Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog twice (2). Fasten off, leaving a 15 cm (6 in) tail for sewing.

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in every end on all six trees, borders, and bow pieces. Wet block each tree motif face down on a mat, pinning out the three tier corners and each red scallop, and let it dry fully so the fans lie flat.
  • Lay out the six motifs in a column with all tips pointing the same way. Overlap each tip slightly onto the bottom edge of the motif above, lining up the center 20 sts of the red round, and pin them together.
  • Whipstitch the pinned red edges together with a tapestry needle and cream thread, stitching through both layers of the center 20 sts only. Check the runner lies straight before moving to the next join.
  • For each bow, pinch the Bow Loops strip in the middle so both ends meet, then wrap the Bow Knot strip tightly around the pinch and sew its two short ends together at the back.
  • Sew two Bow Tails behind each knot, angled in a gentle V so the points flare outward, using the long tails to secure them.
  • Sew each finished bow centered on the bottom tier of its tree, just above Row 17 and between Row 15 and Row 17, directly in the middle of the 39 st base.
  • Pin about 10 to 12 pearl beads on each tree in a scattered diagonal pattern, keeping them on the green section. Sew each one down with a beading needle and doubled thread, knotting securely at the back, then steam or lightly spray the whole runner flat to finish.

Important Notes

  • 💡Keep your tension consistent from tree to tree, because the six motifs need to be the same width to join neatly into a straight runner.
  • 💡Mark the tip and both bottom corners of the tree with stitch markers before starting Round 1 so the 3 sc corner groups land in the right place.
  • 💡Use a cream thread with good contrast against both the green and the red, otherwise the lace fans will blend into the tree.
  • 💡String your pearls onto thread and test one on a scrap swatch first, as some beads have holes that are too small for doubled thread.
  • 💡If you want a stiffer runner, a light coat of fabric stiffener on the border only will help the fans hold their shape, but leave the bows soft.
  • 💡Make all six bows in one sitting so they come out the same size, and compare them side by side before sewing them on.

Your finished runner is a little Christmas forest you can pull out year after year 🎄 Every tree you finish is a tiny win, and by the time the sixth bow is stitched on you’ll have a piece that looks like it came from a boutique craft fair. Pour something warm, put on your favorite carols, and let the rows pile up one cozy evening at a time. Happy hooking, and may your holidays be full of thread ends and good company! 🧶✨

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FAQs

Can I use a thicker yarn instead of fine cotton thread?

You can, but the sizing changes quickly. With DK or worsted weight, each tree becomes much wider and taller, so six motifs would make a very long runner. Make one tree first, measure it, and decide whether to reduce the number of motifs to fit your table.

How do I make the runner longer or shorter?

Each motif adds about 11.5 cm (4.5 in) to the length when joined, so make as many trees as you like. The foundation chain stays at ch 2 for every tree, so you never need to change the starting chain.

Can I join the motifs as I go instead of sewing them?

Yes. On Round 4 of each new tree, you can sl st through the red edge of the motif above at the center 20 sts instead of working sc there. Sewing is neater, though, and lets you adjust the overlap before committing.

What is the tricky part of the tree shaping?

The step-out rows 5, 9, and 13 are the only places where you add four stitches instead of two. Just remember 2 sc in each of the first two and last two stitches, and check your count against the number in brackets after each row.

Where do the pearls go and how many do I need?

About 10 to 12 beads per tree, so around 70 in total with a few spares. Scatter them over the green section only, in loose diagonal lines, and keep a few stitches away from the border so the lace stays clean.