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Crochet Butterfly Granny Square Bedspread Pattern

Crochet Butterfly Granny Square Bedspread Pattern
4.1β˜…Rating
10-15 HoursTime Needed
1.4KMade This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

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Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour projectβ€”great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Warm Welcome

A comforting piece for home or gifts that brings handmade warmth to everyday moments and special occasions.

About This Crochet Butterfly Granny Square Bedspread Pattern

Crochet Butterfly Granny Square Bedspread Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Made as a bedspread, it turns a plain guest room into a showpiece, and a single square works beautifully as a pillow front or a baby shower gift on its own.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Butterfly Granny Square Bedspread Pattern

I fell for this one because the butterflies look like they've really landed on the lace. The wings are small and quick, so you get a little hit of progress every few minutes. And the joins are my favorite part, since the seams turn into pretty ridges and there's nothing to hide. I made my first square on a rainy afternoon and had to start another straight away.

Crochet Butterfly Granny Square Bedspread Pattern step 1 Crochet Butterfly Granny Square Bedspread Pattern step 2 Crochet Butterfly Granny Square Bedspread Pattern step 3 Crochet Butterfly Granny Square Bedspread Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

The first time I stitched one of these butterfly squares, I did the wings in the wrong order and had to rip back an hour of work. So here's my tip: crochet all four wings and the wing discs first, lay them on the finished lace, and play with the angles before you sew a single stitch. A tiny shift in how far the wings tilt changes the whole mood of the square.

The seams are where this project surprised me. I expected to hate joining dozens of squares, but working the slip stitch with wrong sides together builds that raised ridge on the front, and suddenly the grid looks intentional, almost like quilting. I joined mine in strips of four while watching old movies, which made the finish line feel closer.

Color-wise, I'm a lavender and cream person, but I've also pictured this in dusty rose with sage rosettes, or ink blue with soft gray wings for a winter bed. Whatever you pick, keep the body darker than the wings so the butterfly has something to anchor it. And save a little yarn for the tassels, because those finishing touches are the part everyone reaches out to touch first.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— The BLO hdc round (Round 6 of the border) can pull the square into a shallow bowl if you work it too tightly, so keep your loops relaxed and let the ridge lie flat.βœ— In Round 4 of the cream lace it's easy to skip the ch1 right before a corner, which makes the square pucker, so check that every side has three ch1 sps before you move on.βœ— If the four wings are sewn too far apart, the cream lace shows through around the body, so pin them overlapping by about 1 cm (0.4 in) near the center before sewing.βœ— The slip stitch seams can pull tight and make the whole bedspread ripple, so keep your sl sts loose and always work all 23 sts between the corner centers on every seam.βœ— Overstuffing the brown body makes it lumpy and tilts the wings upward, so add only a small pinch of fiberfill and shape it into a slim tube.βœ— Tassels can slip out of the edging after washing if the ties are loose, so pull each tie tight and knot it firmly at the top before attaching it to the edge.

Crochet Butterfly Granny Square Bedspread Pattern

Picture a soft lavender bedspread where every square holds its own little butterfly, resting on a bed of creamy lace. That's what you'll be stitching here. Each square is a small project on its own, so you can crochet one on the sofa tonight and tuck the next into your bag tomorrow. When the squares come together with raised slip stitch seams, you get an heirloom-style cover that looks far more complicated than it feels while you work.

Advanced 10-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Butterfly Granny Square Bedspread Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 1500 g of DK weight cotton yarn in soft lavender for the borders, wings, seams, edging, and tassels (for a 48 square bedspread)
  • 02
    Approximately 600 g of DK weight cotton yarn in warm cream for the lace centers of all squares
  • 03
    Approximately 80 g of DK weight cotton yarn in chocolate brown for the butterfly bodies, antennae, and small rosettes
  • 04
    Approximately 60 g of DK weight cotton yarn in a paler lilac for the wing center discs

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook, approximately 3.5-4 mm, adjusted so your squares measure about 23 cm (9 in)
  • 02
    Tapestry needle
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers for marking corner centers
  • 05
    T-pins or blocking pins
  • 06
    Blocking mats or a padded flat surface
  • 07
    Strip of cardboard about 10 cm (4 in) wide for making tassels
  • 08
    Small amount of polyester fiberfill for the butterfly bodies
  • 09
    Measuring tape

Progress Tracker

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β€” 1. Cream Lace Square (make 48) :

Info :

Each finished square is approximately 23 cm (9 in) wide after blocking. This pattern uses 6 squares across and 8 down, so the finished bedspread measures approximately 138 x 184 cm (54 x 72 in). To make it wider or longer, simply make more squares; each extra square adds about 23 cm (9 in). Work Rounds 1-4 in cream. Corner sps are the ch2 sps, and the butterfly, rosettes, and joins are added after the square is finished.

Round 1 :

Make a MR. Ch3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in the ring, ch2, [3 dc in the ring, ch2] 3 times. Sl st to the top of the ch3 to join. (12 dc, 4 ch2 sps)

Round 2 :

Sl st in each of the next 2 dc and into the first ch2 sp. Ch3 (counts as dc), 2 dc, ch2, 3 dc in the same sp, ch1. [3 dc, ch2, 3 dc in the next ch2 sp, ch1] 3 times. Sl st to the top of the ch3 to join. (24 dc, 4 ch1 sps, 4 ch2 sps)

Round 3 :

Sl st in each of the next 2 dc and into the first ch2 sp. Ch3 (counts as dc), 2 dc, ch2, 3 dc in the same sp, ch1, 3 dc in the next ch1 sp, ch1. [3 dc, ch2, 3 dc in the next ch2 sp, ch1, 3 dc in the next ch1 sp, ch1] 3 times. Sl st to the top of the ch3 to join. (36 dc, 8 ch1 sps, 4 ch2 sps)

Round 4 :

Sl st in each of the next 2 dc and into the first ch2 sp. Ch3 (counts as dc), 2 dc, ch2, 3 dc in the same sp, ch1. [3 dc in the next ch1 sp, ch1] 2 times. [3 dc, ch2, 3 dc in the next ch2 sp, ch1, [3 dc in the next ch1 sp, ch1] 2 times] 3 times. Sl st to the top of the ch3 to join. Fasten off cream. (48 dc, 12 ch1 sps, 4 ch2 sps)

β€” 2. Lavender Ridged Border :

Info :

The corner center st is the middle st of each 3 st corner group. Pop a stitch marker into it on every round so you can find it easily. Working Round 6 in the back loops only is what creates the raised ridge that frames the lace.

Round 5 :

Join lavender with a sl st in any corner ch2 sp. Ch1, 3 sc in the same sp. [Sc in each of the next 3 dc, sc in the next ch1 sp] 3 times, sc in each of the next 3 dc, 3 sc in the next corner ch2 sp. Repeat the side and corner sequence 3 more times, ending with the last side, then sl st to the first sc to join. (72 sc: 15 sc on each side plus 3 sc in each corner)

Round 6 :

Ch1 (does not count as a st). Working in BLO, hdc in each st around, working 3 hdc in the center st of each corner group. Sl st to the first hdc to join. (80 hdc)

Round 7 :

Ch2 (does not count as a st). Dc in each st around, working 3 dc in the center st of each corner group. Sl st to the top of the first dc to join. (88 dc)

Round 8 :

Ch1 (does not count as a st). Sc in each st around, working 3 sc in the center st of each corner group. Sl st to the first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends. (96 sc: 21 sc between corner centers on each side, plus 3 sc at each corner)

β€” 3. Upper Wings (make 2 per square, in lavender) :

Info :

Each upper wing is an oval about 7 cm (2.75 in) long. Work in lavender. The BLO round on the outside gives the wing its soft, raised edge.

Round 1 :

Ch7. 3 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each of the next 4 ch, 4 sc in the last ch. Working along the opposite side of the foundation ch, sc in each of the next 4 ch. Sl st to the first sc to join. (15)

Round 2 :

Ch1 (does not count as a st). 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc in each of the next 4 sts. Sl st to the first sc to join. (22)

Round 3 :

Ch1 (does not count as a st). Working in BLO, [sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st] 3 times, sc in each of the next 4 sts, [sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st] 4 times, sc in each of the next 4 sts. Sl st to the first sc to join. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. (29)

β€” 4. Lower Wings (make 2 per square, in lavender) :

Info :

The lower wings are a little smaller, about 5.5 cm (2.25 in) long, so the butterfly looks balanced. Work in lavender.

Round 1 :

Ch7. 3 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each of the next 4 ch, 4 sc in the last ch. Working along the opposite side of the foundation ch, sc in each of the next 4 ch. Sl st to the first sc to join. (15)

Round 2 :

Ch1 (does not count as a st). Working in BLO, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc in each of the next 4 sts. Sl st to the first sc to join. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. (22)

β€” 5. Wing Centers (make 4 per square, in paler lilac) :

Round 1 :

Make a MR. 6 sc in the ring. Do not join. (6)

Round 2 :

2 sc in each st around. Sl st to the next st to join. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. (12)

β€” 6. Butterfly Body (make 1 per square, in chocolate brown) :

Round 1 :

Make a MR. 6 sc in the ring. Do not join. (6)

Round 2-13 :

Sc in each st around. (6)

Info :

Add a small pinch of fiberfill after Round 8 so the body stays slim, then top it up lightly before closing.

Round 14 :

[Sc2tog] 3 times. Fasten off leaving a long tail, thread it through the remaining sts, and pull closed. (3)

β€” 7. Antennae (make 2 per square, in chocolate brown) :

Antenna :

Ch14. Sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each of the next 12 ch. Fasten off leaving a 15 cm (6 in) tail for sewing. (13 sl sts)

β€” 8. Brown Rosettes (make 8 per square, in chocolate brown) :

Round 1 :

Make a MR. 6 sc in the ring. Do not join. (6)

Round 2 :

2 sc in each st around. Sl st to the next st to join. Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. (12)

β€” 9. Joining the Squares :

Info :

Join with lavender using slip stitch seams. Holding the squares with wrong sides together puts the ridge on the right side of the bedspread. Every seam runs from corner center st to corner center st and uses 23 sl sts.

Layout :

Block all squares and add the butterflies first. Lay the squares out in 6 columns and 8 rows with every butterfly facing the same way.

Seam :

Hold two squares wrong sides together with the corner centers lined up. Join lavender in the corner center st through both layers. Insert the hook through both loops of the matching sts on both squares and sl st across, working 23 sl sts in total, ending in the other corner center st. Fasten off.

Rows :

Join the squares into 8 strips of 6 squares, working the seams in the same direction every time.

Columns :

Join the strips together with the same 23 sl st seam, keeping the seam intersections neatly matched at the corners of the four squares.

β€” 10. Edging :

Info :

For a bedspread that is W squares wide and L squares long, Round 1 uses 44W + 44L + 8 sts and Round 2 uses 44W + 44L + 16 sts. For this 6 x 8 version, that is 624 and 632 sts.

Round 1 :

Join lavender with a sl st in the outer corner center st of any corner square. Ch1, 3 sc in the same st. Along each side, sc in each of the 21 side sts of a square, then sc2tog over the two corner center sts where that square meets the next one. Repeat to the next corner, ending the side with 21 sc, then 3 sc in the corner center st. Continue around all four sides. Sl st to the first sc to join. (624)

Round 2 :

Ch1 (does not count as a st). Sc in each st around, working 3 sc in the center st of each corner group. Sl st to the first sc to join. Fasten off. (632)

β€” 11. Fringe Tassels (in lavender) :

Info :

The tassels hang along the foot of the bedspread and both long sides. Plan on one tassel in every 5th st of Round 2 of the edging, and adjust the spacing slightly near the corners so they look even.

Wrap :

Wrap lavender yarn around a cardboard strip about 10 cm (4 in) wide, 10 times.

Tie :

Slide a 25 cm (10 in) strand under the wraps at the top of the cardboard and tie it very tightly in a double knot.

Cut :

Slide the loops off the cardboard, then cut through the bottom of the loops.

Bind :

Wrap a strand tightly around the bundle about 2 cm (0.75 in) below the top and knot it to form the tassel head.

Attach :

Pull the top tie through the chosen st from the wrong side with the hook, thread the ends through the loop, and pull tight. Trim all strands level.

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in all ends on the wrong side, then block each square pinned flat to about 23 cm (9 in), steaming lightly so the ridged lavender border sits flat but the cream lace stays soft.
  • Pin the body vertically over the Round 1 center of the cream lace, so the middle of the body sits exactly on the original magic ring, and sew it down with brown yarn along both long sides.
  • Sew the narrow starting end of each upper wing to the lace about 1 cm (0.4 in) above the body center, angling them out toward the top corners of the square, then sew the lower wings about 1 cm (0.4 in) below the center, angled toward the bottom corners and overlapping the upper wing bases slightly.
  • Sew a paler lilac wing center to each wing about 2.5 cm (1 in) in from its narrow starting end, then stitch two brown antennae to the top of the body, curling their tips outward and tacking them to Round 3 of the lace.
  • Sew eight brown rosettes to every square: one in each of the four ch2 corner sps of Round 4 and one in the middle ch1 sp on each side of Round 4.
  • Join the squares in 8 strips of 6 with lavender slip stitch seams, wrong sides together, then join the strips so all butterflies face the same direction.
  • Work the two edging rounds in lavender, then attach the tassels in every 5th st of Round 2 along the foot and both long sides, and give the finished bedspread a final light steam.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Make one test square first and measure it after blocking; aim for about 23 cm (9 in) so the rest of your layout adds up to the finished measurements.
  • πŸ’‘Buy all your lavender yarn in one go, because a slight dye lot change would show clearly across the border and seams.
  • πŸ’‘Use a stitch marker in the corner center st on Rounds 5-8, since the 3 st increases at the corners are the easiest place to lose count.
  • πŸ’‘Make the butterflies in batches: all upper wings, then all lower wings, then discs and bodies. It speeds you up and keeps your sizes consistent.
  • πŸ’‘Weave brown ends in carefully on the cream lace, because dark yarn tails can show through the pale stitches.
  • πŸ’‘Wash gently by hand or on a delicate cycle and dry flat so the raised wings and ridged seams keep their shape.
  • πŸ’‘Keep a count of finished squares and tick them off in a notebook; with 48 squares, it's the little checklist that keeps you motivated.

There's something deeply satisfying about watching a plain stack of squares turn into a bedspread full of butterflies. Take it one square at a time, keep a little basket of lavender and cream nearby, and let the rhythm of the rounds carry you along. By the time the last tassel is knotted, you'll have a cover that holds hours of your care in every stitch. Wrap it over your bed, share it with your crafting friends, and enjoy every cozy night under it. Happy stitching! 🧢✨🧡

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Can I use a different yarn weight for this butterfly bedspread?

You can, but the pattern was designed around DK weight cotton and a hook of about 3.5-4 mm, which gives squares of roughly 23 cm (9 in). Worsted makes each square noticeably larger, so you'd need fewer squares, and the lace gets less delicate. Make one test square and measure it before buying all your yarn.

How many squares do I need for a bigger bed?

This pattern uses 48 squares (6 x 8) for about 138 x 184 cm (54 x 72 in). For a queen size cover, 7 x 9 squares gives roughly 161 x 207 cm (63 x 81 in), which needs 63 squares. Plan on about 30 percent more yarn than the 48 square version, and use the stitch formulas in the Edging section for the border.

Is this pattern suitable for a confident beginner?

The stitches are simple (sc, hdc, dc), but there are many parts to keep organized: lace rounds, a ridged border, four wings, discs, a body, antennae, and rosettes. If you can already crochet in the round and follow a granny square, you can do it. Work one square slowly first and the rest will feel familiar.

Can I make just one square as a pillow cover?

Yes, one finished square is about 23 cm (9 in) wide, so it makes a lovely small cushion front. Make two squares, add the butterfly to one, and join them with the same slip stitch seam on three sides. Insert a pillow form and close the fourth side. The tassel trim looks lovely on pillows too.

Do I really need to block the squares before joining?

Yes, blocking is what makes the seams meet cleanly. The lace and the BLO ridge relax into a flat square, so all 23 sts of each seam line up with the next square. Pin each one to about 23 cm (9 in), steam lightly without pressing on the butterfly, and let it dry fully before joining.

How do I stop the wings from flopping instead of staying raised?

Sew each wing along its starting end and about a third of the way along its sides, leaving the outer edge free. The BLO round gives it a soft ridge, and the wing center disc adds a little weight and structure. Blocking the butterfly with a damp cloth and gentle steam also helps the wings keep their shape.