🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Crochet Blue and Cream Flower Bedspread Pattern

Crochet Blue and Cream Flower Bedspread Pattern
3.9★Rating
10-15 HoursTime Needed
2.1KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Stylish Touch

An elegant detail to elevate any look, combining traditional techniques with contemporary design sensibilities.

About This Crochet Blue and Cream Flower Bedspread Pattern

Crochet Blue and Cream Flower Bedspread Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

It makes a lovely wedding or housewarming gift, or the centerpiece of a guest room that feels calm and a little bit grand. Layer the shams and cushion against a plain headboard and let the blue do the talking.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Blue and Cream Flower Bedspread Pattern

I love how forgiving this one is. The mesh rounds hide small tension wobbles, and every square is small enough to toss in a tote and finish in an evening, so you never wrestle a giant blanket. I also like that the little cushion works as a practice run: make it first, and you’ll know the motif by heart before you start on the big spread.

Crochet Blue and Cream Flower Bedspread Pattern step 1 Crochet Blue and Cream Flower Bedspread Pattern step 2 Crochet Blue and Cream Flower Bedspread Pattern step 3 Crochet Blue and Cream Flower Bedspread Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

The first square I made for this set sat in my project bag for a week because I was sure the leaves behind the petals would be fiddly. They weren’t. The trick is to push the cream petals forward with your thumb, hook the little stitch between two petals from the back, and let the chain loops fall where they want.

I stitched my first blue flowers in three shades and worried the contrast looked too busy. After blocking, everything calmed down and the layers looked soft and painterly, a bit like old china. For something moodier, swap the light blue for a dusty gray-green and keep the navy outline exactly as written.

My honest tip is to make four or five squares before you commit to colors for the whole spread. Lay them out on the floor, squint, and see how the diamonds read from across the room. I also jot down which corner I joined each round in, so my yarn ends spread out instead of piling up in one spot.

When the border finally went on, the whole bed looked like a different room.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ When you work Rounds 4 and 5 behind the cream petals, it’s easy to catch the petal stitches instead of the Round 2 sc, which pulls the leaves to the front, so fold the petals forward and insert your hook only into the sc between them.✗ On the mesh rounds it’s easy to skip the wrong stitch, so count every ch-1 sp as one stitch on the following dc round; if a side doesn’t total 23, 31 or 39 sts before the corner, find the slip before you start the next round.✗ Marking the wrong leaves as corners in Round 6 twists the blue square and the ch-2 corners won’t line up later, so place a marker in leaves 1, 3, 5 and 7 before you begin that round.✗ When joining squares, sewing along the sides first can leave the corners gaping, so match the four corner ch-2 sps first, pin the midpoint of each side, and then sew across the 43 dc.✗ In border Round 1, forgetting the sc2tog at a seam adds a stitch and pushes every fan away from its peak, so check that each stretch holds exactly 43 sts before you reach the next junction.✗ Cream spikes flop forward if they’re sewn on at the tip only, so stitch the whole base across the peak and add a couple of stitches along each sloping side so they hang straight out.

Crochet Blue and Cream Flower Bedspread Pattern

Picture a bed dressed in creamy, lace-like squares, each one holding a blue flower set on point like a little diamond. That’s what you’ll be making here: a full-size coverlet built from joined motifs, with a matching cushion and a pair of pillow shams so the whole bed looks pulled together. The result feels tailored and a bit old-fashioned in the best way, the kind of piece that makes a bedroom look finished the moment it’s smoothed over the mattress. If you love a project with real wow factor at the finish line, this one has your name on it.

Intermediate 10-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Blue and Cream Flower Bedspread Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 2,000 to 2,200 g of DK weight cotton yarn in cream (Color A) for the flower petals, filet squares, rosettes, border base round, spikes, and the cushion and sham backs
  • 02
    Approximately 350 g of DK weight cotton yarn in light blue (Color B) for the leaves, the fan round of the border, and the first edging round on the cushion and shams
  • 03
    Approximately 150 g of DK weight cotton yarn in medium blue (Color C) for the round that squares off each flower
  • 04
    Approximately 350 g of DK weight cotton yarn in navy (Color D) for the outline round of each square, the final border round, and the outer edging on the cushion and shams

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5 mm (E) crochet hook, or the size that gives a firm, even fabric with your cotton
  • 02
    Tapestry needle for sewing squares, rosettes and spikes
  • 03
    Sharp scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers for marking corner leaves and corner stitches
  • 05
    Rust-proof T-pins for blocking and holding pieces in place
  • 06
    Blocking mats or a firm padded surface large enough for a 29 cm (11.5 in) square
  • 07
    Measuring tape
  • 08
    Spray bottle or steamer for blocking the cotton
  • 09
    Pillow form about 30 cm (12 in) square for the cushion
  • 10
    Two pillow forms about 50 cm (20 in) square for the shams

Progress Tracker

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— 1. Flower Center (make 42 for the bedspread) :

Info :

The finished bedspread measures approximately 180 x 210 cm (71 x 83 in) including the border, made of 42 motifs worked 6 across and 7 down. Each motif is approximately 29 cm (11.5 in) square after blocking. Rounds 1-7 should measure roughly 14 cm (5.5 in) across. Use a hook of about 3.5 mm and DK weight cotton. Colors are A cream, B light blue, C medium blue and D navy. To make the spread wider or longer, add one motif per extra column or row. In border Round 1 add one more repeat of (sc in each of the next 43 dc, sc2tog) on each affected side, and in border Round 2 add one more fan and one more peak per extra motif.

Round 1 :

With A, MR, ch 1 (does not count as a st), 16 sc in ring, sl st to first sc (16)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 3, skip next st, [sc in next st, ch 3, skip next st] 7 times, sl st to first sc (8 sc, 8 ch-3 sps)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, [(sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) in next ch-3 sp, sl st in next Round 2 sc] 8 times (8 petals, 56 sts). Fasten off A.

Round 4 :

Fold the petals forward and, working behind them, join B with a sl st in any Round 2 sc. [Ch 5, sl st in next Round 2 sc] 8 times (8 ch-5 sps)

Round 5 :

Ch 1, [(sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc) in next ch-5 sp] 8 times, sl st to first sc (8 leaves, 56 sts). Fasten off B.

Round 6 :

Join C in the first sc of any leaf, ch 1 (does not count as a st). Corner leaf (leaves 1, 3, 5 and 7): sc in same st and in next 2 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the tip tr, sc in next 3 sts. Side leaf (leaves 2, 4, 6 and 8): sc in each of next 7 sts. Work corner leaf then side leaf 4 times in total, sl st to first sc (60 sc, 4 ch-2 sps, 15 sc along each side). Fasten off C.

Round 7 :

Join D in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, dc in each of next 15 sc, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each of next 15 sc] 3 times, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (76 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 19 dc between corner sps). Fasten off D.

— 2. Cream Filet Frame (continue each of the 42 motifs) :

Info :

Fasten off after every round in this section and rejoin A in any corner ch-2 sp. Move your joining corner around from round to round so the ends don’t pile up in one spot. On dc rounds, work one dc in every dc and one dc in every ch-1 sp.

Round 8 :

Join A in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 9 times, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 9 times] 3 times, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (56 dc, 36 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps, 23 sts between corner sps)

Round 9 :

Join A in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, dc in each of next 23 sts, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each of next 23 sts] 3 times, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (108 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 27 dc between corner sps)

Round 10 :

Join A in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 13 times, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 13 times] 3 times, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (72 dc, 52 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps, 31 sts between corner sps)

Round 11 :

Join A in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, dc in each of next 31 sts, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each of next 31 sts] 3 times, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (140 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 35 dc between corner sps)

Round 12 :

Join A in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 17 times, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 17 times] 3 times, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (88 dc, 68 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps, 39 sts between corner sps)

Round 13 :

Join A in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, dc in each of next 39 sts, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each of next 39 sts] 3 times, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (172 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 43 dc between corner sps). Fasten off and weave in ends.

— 3. Joining Rosettes (make 30) :

Info :

One small rosette sits over every inside point where four squares meet. A 6 x 7 layout has 30 of them. Each rosette measures about 2.5 cm (1 in) across.

Round 1 :

With A, MR, ch 1 (does not count as a st), 6 sc in ring, sl st to first sc (6)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (12)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, sl st to first sc (18). Fasten off, leaving a 25 cm (10 in) tail for sewing.

— 4. Border :

Info :

Work the border after all 42 squares are joined and blocked. The two ch-2 sps that sit side by side at each seam on the outer edge are worked together with sc2tog. The 6-square sides are the width and the 7-square sides are the length.

Round 1 :

With A, join in any outer corner ch-2 sp of a width side, ch 1, sc in the corner sp. Along the width side: [sc in each of next 43 dc, sc2tog over the next two ch-2 sps] 5 times, sc in each of next 43 dc, sc in corner sp. Along the length side: [sc in each of next 43 dc, sc2tog over the next two ch-2 sps] 6 times, sc in each of next 43 dc, sc in corner sp. Along the next width side: [sc in each of next 43 dc, sc2tog over the next two ch-2 sps] 5 times, sc in each of next 43 dc, sc in corner sp. Along the last length side: [sc in each of next 43 dc, sc2tog over the next two ch-2 sps] 6 times, sc in each of next 43 dc, sl st to first sc (1144 sc). Fasten off.

Round 2 :

Join B in any corner sc, ch 4 (counts as tr), tr in same st, ch 3, 2 tr in same st. Fan means: tr in next 9 sts, dc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 5 sts, tr in next 9 sts (43 sts). Peak means: (2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in next st. Along the width side: [Fan, Peak] 5 times, Fan, then (2 tr, ch 3, 2 tr) in the corner st. Along the length side: [Fan, Peak] 6 times, Fan, then (2 tr, ch 3, 2 tr) in the corner st. Along the next width side: [Fan, Peak] 5 times, Fan, then (2 tr, ch 3, 2 tr) in the corner st. Along the last length side: [Fan, Peak] 6 times, Fan, sl st to top of beginning ch 4 (26 fans, 22 peaks, 4 corners, 1222 sts). Fasten off.

Round 3 :

Join D in the first st after any ch-3 corner sp, ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around, working 3 sc in each ch-2 peak sp and 5 sc in each ch-3 corner sp (including the one beside your starting st), sl st to first sc (1308 sc). Fasten off.

— 5. Cream Spikes (make 26) :

Info :

You need one spike for each of the 22 seam peaks and 4 corner peaks. Each spike is a little triangle about 6 cm (2.5 in) wide at the base and 4 cm (1.5 in) long.

Row 1 :

With A, ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (11)

Row 2 :

Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog (9)

Row 3 :

Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog (7)

Row 4 :

Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog (5)

Row 5 :

Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog (3)

Row 6 :

Ch 1, turn, sc3tog (1). Fasten off, leaving a 25 cm (10 in) tail for sewing.

— 6. Small Cushion Front :

Info :

Make one motif exactly as written in Sections 1 and 2, working Rounds 1-13. Then add the two blue edging rounds below. The finished front is approximately 31 cm (12 in) square and fits a 30 cm (12 in) pillow form.

Round 14 :

Join B in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, 3 sc in same sp, sc in each of next 43 dc, [3 sc in next corner sp, sc in each of next 43 dc] 3 times, sl st to first sc (184 sc). Fasten off.

Round 15 :

Join D in the center sc of any 3-sc corner, ch 1, 3 sc in same st, sc in each of next 45 sts, [3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 45 sts] 3 times, sl st to first sc (192 sc). Fasten off.

— 7. Small Cushion Back :

Row 1 :

With A, ch 45, dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (43 dc, counting the beginning ch 3 as a dc)

Row 2-26 :

Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in each st across (43). Fasten off after Row 26 and weave in ends.

— 8. Pillow Sham Front (make 2) :

Info :

Make each front as one motif, working Rounds 1-13 exactly as written in Sections 1 and 2. Then continue with the extra cream rounds below and two blue edging rounds. Each finished front is approximately 55 cm (21.5 in) square and fits a pillow form of about 50 cm (20 in) square. Fasten off and rejoin A in a corner ch-2 sp after every round.

Round 14 :

Join A in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 21 times, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 21 times] 3 times, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (104 dc, 84 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps, 47 sts between corner sps)

Round 15 :

Join A in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, dc in each of next 47 sts, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each of next 47 sts] 3 times, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (204 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 51 dc between corner sps)

Round 16 :

Join A in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 25 times, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 25 times] 3 times, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (120 dc, 100 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps, 55 sts between corner sps)

Round 17 :

Join A in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, dc in each of next 55 sts, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each of next 55 sts] 3 times, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (236 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 59 dc between corner sps)

Round 18 :

Join A in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 29 times, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 29 times] 3 times, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (136 dc, 116 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps, 63 sts between corner sps)

Round 19 :

Join A in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, dc in each of next 63 sts, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each of next 63 sts] 3 times, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (268 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 67 dc between corner sps)

Round 20 :

Join A in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 33 times, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in next st, [ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st] 33 times] 3 times, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (152 dc, 132 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps, 71 sts between corner sps)

Round 21 :

Join A in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same sp, dc in each of next 71 sts, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp, dc in each of next 71 sts] 3 times, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 2, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (300 dc, 4 ch-2 sps, 75 dc between corner sps)

Round 22 :

Join B in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, 3 sc in same sp, sc in each of next 75 dc, [3 sc in next corner sp, sc in each of next 75 dc] 3 times, sl st to first sc (312 sc). Fasten off.

Round 23 :

Join D in the center sc of any 3-sc corner, ch 1, 3 sc in same st, sc in each of next 77 sts, [3 sc in next st, sc in each of next 77 sts] 3 times, sl st to first sc (320 sc). Fasten off.

— 9. Pillow Sham Back (make 2) :

Row 1 :

With A, ch 77, dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (75 dc, counting the beginning ch 3 as a dc)

Row 2-46 :

Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in each st across (75). Fasten off after Row 46 and weave in ends. The panel should measure about 52 cm (20.5 in) tall.

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in all ends on every square. Wet block each of the 42 squares by pinning it to 29 cm (11.5 in) square, placing a pin in each of the four corner ch-2 sps and one at the midpoint of every side, then let them dry completely.
  • Lay the squares out 6 across and 7 down. With A and a tapestry needle, whip stitch through the back loops only to join 6 squares into a strip, matching each of the 43 dc on one side to the 43 dc on its neighbor and sewing corner ch-2 sp to corner ch-2 sp first. Make 7 strips, then join the strips the same way, pinning all four corners that meet at each inside junction before you sew.
  • Wet block the joined spread flat on a clean floor or bed, squaring the edges and gently shaping the outer corners, then let it dry before working the border.
  • Work border Rounds 1-3 around the outside edge. Then sew a joining rosette over every inside junction, centering it on the point where four corners meet and stitching around its outer edge with the long tail so it sits slightly raised. You need 30 rosettes.
  • Pin one cream spike at each of the 26 border peaks, centering the base on the middle sc of the peak (the 3 center sc at a seam peak, the 5 center sc at a corner) with the tip pointing out beyond the edge. Sew the full base, then add one or two stitches along each sloping side so the spike hangs straight.
  • For the cushion, block the front to 31 cm (12 in) square. Place the back against the front with wrong sides together, matching the corners, and whip stitch the back to the back loops of Round 15 with D along three sides. Insert the pillow form and sew the last side closed.
  • For each sham, block the front to about 55 cm (21.5 in) square. Place a back panel against it with wrong sides together and sew with D along three sides and about 15 cm (6 in) of the fourth side from each corner, leaving the center of the last side open. Slide in the pillow form through the opening.

Important Notes

  • 💡Fasten off after every cream round and rejoin in a different corner each time, so your ends spread out around the square instead of building a lump in one spot.
  • 💡Check your count after Round 7: each side should show 19 dc between the corner ch-2 sps. If every square matches at this point, the filet rounds and the joining will go smoothly.
  • 💡Count each ch-1 sp as one stitch when you work the dc rounds. Any mismatch is much easier to fix on the same round than three rounds later.
  • 💡Make the small cushion first as a practice piece. It uses the same motif, so you can sort out the leaves behind the petals before you commit to 42 squares.
  • 💡Keep your tension relaxed on the Round 4 loops and the Round 5 leaves. If they are tight, the petals pucker and the flower won’t lie flat.
  • 💡Cotton shows every uneven tension line, so block every square the same way and let them dry fully before you sew them together.

Your bed is about to get the kind of makeover people notice the second they walk in 🧶 Grab your cream and blues, settle in with a few squares at a time, and let the pattern grow at its own pace. Every flower you finish is one more step toward a spread you’ll be proud to hand down. Gift it, drape it over the foot of the bed, or keep every bit of it for yourself. Happy hooking, and enjoy every stitch! ✨

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FAQs

Can I use a different yarn weight for this bedspread?

You can, but the stitch counts are built around DK cotton and a hook of about 3.5 mm, which gives squares of roughly 29 cm (11.5 in). Worsted weight makes each square noticeably larger, so you’d need fewer squares, while fingering weight makes them smaller. Make one full motif first and measure it before you buy yarn for the whole spread.

How many squares do I need for a twin or queen bed?

The pattern as written uses 6 across by 7 down for a spread of about 180 x 210 cm (71 x 83 in), which suits a full bed. For a twin, try 4 across by 7 down. For a queen, try 7 across by 8 down. Each extra square adds about 29 cm (11.5 in), and in border Round 1 you add one more (sc in each of the next 43 dc, sc2tog) repeat per extra square, with one more fan and peak in Round 2.

Can I join the squares as I go instead of sewing them?

This pattern is written for sewing finished squares together, because each square has a ch-2 corner that needs to sit flat against its three neighbors. Joining as you go changes how those corners meet and can make the junctions bulky. Whip stitch through the back loops, matching all 43 dc on every side, and the seams will stay neat.

How do I work the blue leaves behind the cream petals?

After Round 3, push the petals forward with your thumb and keep your hook behind them. Join the new color in a Round 2 sc, then chain 5 and slip stitch into the next Round 2 sc eight times. Round 5 is then worked into those chain loops. If you catch a petal stitch by mistake, the leaves end up in front of the flower, so take it out and try again.

My border Round 1 count doesn’t come out to 1144. What went wrong?

Check each stretch between peaks, because every one must have exactly 43 sc before the next sc2tog at a seam. The most common slip is working the sc2tog over only one ch-2 sp, or missing the sc in a corner sp. The total is 263 sts on each width side, 307 on each length side, plus 4 corner sts.

Do I need to block the squares before joining them?

Yes, it makes a big difference. Cotton relaxes a lot when it’s wet, and pinning each square to 29 cm (11.5 in) evens out the mesh and flattens the layered flower. Squares that are all the same size will line up neatly at the corners and the rosettes will sit exactly over the junctions.