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Black Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Black Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern
4.3β˜… Rating
18-22 Hours Time Needed
1.6K Made This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced knitters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

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Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour projectβ€”great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Black Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

This Black Dragon Toothless pattern is a masterpiece of amigurumi craftsmanship, featuring advanced techniques like wire armature construction, moveable joint installation, and detailed assembly. Standing approximately 30cm tall when complete, this dragon showcases impressive wings with internal wire frames for poseable display, articulated legs with plastic joints or cotter pins for movement, and intricate details like spines running down the back and delicate tail fins. The pattern uses fine cotton-acrylic blend yarn in dark gray and black, creating the sleek appearance of a Night Fury dragon with striking yellow eyes that bring personality to life.

Black Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

What makes this pattern truly special is the attention to structural detail, including a complete wire skeleton running through the body, tail, and wings. The use of professional joint systems allows the dragon to be posed in various positions, making it perfect for display or interactive play.

Why You'll Love This Black Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it transforms simple yarn into a majestic creature that looks like it could take flight at any moment. The challenge of working with wire frameworks and joint systems pushes my crochet skills to new heights while the gradual assembly process feels like watching a dragon come to life stitch by stitch. There's something incredibly satisfying about creating those poseable wings that can be adjusted into different flying positions, and the moveable legs mean your dragon can sit, stand, or perch however you imagine. The detailed instructions for every spine, fin, and feature ensure that even complex elements become achievable, and seeing those expressive yellow eyes peer out from the finished face makes every hour of work worthwhile. This isn't just a crochet project, it's an adventure in bringing mythical magic into tangible reality.

Black Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Black Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Black Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Black Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love experimenting with this dragon pattern to create unique variations that reflect different personalities and styles! One of my favorite modifications is changing the eye color - while the pattern calls for yellow, I've made versions with green eyes for an emerald forest dragon, blue for an ice dragon, or even gradient colors for a mystical effect. You could also play with the color scheme entirely, swapping dark gray for deep purple, midnight blue, or even metallic yarns to create different dragon species from your imagination.

Another fun variation I enjoy is adjusting the spine count and placement - instead of sixteen uniform spines, try making them gradually larger from head to tail for a more dramatic silhouette, or add extra spines along the wing edges for a more fierce, battle-ready appearance. I've even experimented with making the spines in contrasting colors, like adding bright red or gold tips for a fire dragon effect.

For a softer, more cuddly version perfect for younger children, I sometimes skip the wire frame entirely and add extra stuffing instead, creating a squishy companion rather than a poseable display piece. You can also modify the wing size - making them larger and more dramatic for an impressive display piece, or smaller and tucked for a more compact, sitting dragon design. The tail fins are another area where I love to get creative, making them larger and more elaborate, or adding extra decorative elements like beaded edges or embroidered patterns.

If you want to add more character details, consider embroidering scale patterns onto the body using darker thread, adding felt teeth inside the mouth area, or even creating small accessories like a tiny saddle or rider. The joint system also opens up possibilities - I've seen makers add extra joints in the tail for even more poseability, or reinforce the neck joint to support a larger, more detailed head design. Whatever modifications you choose, this pattern's solid construction techniques provide the perfect foundation for bringing your own dragon vision to life!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Not stuffing the body and head firmly enough before assembly, which can cause the dragon to lose its shape and appear floppy or saggy over time βœ— Forgetting to insert the wire frame through the hole in rounds twenty-seven to twenty-eight of the head before attaching it to the body permanently βœ— Placing the plastic joints or cotter pins in the wrong position, which prevents proper leg movement and makes the dragon unable to pose correctly βœ— Skipping the extra shift stitches when needed, causing the round marker to drift and making pattern alignment difficult, especially around the face symmetry βœ— Not bending the wire ends properly before crocheting around them for the wings, resulting in sharp edges that could poke through the fabric later βœ— Rushing the wing edging process and not following the directional arrows carefully, which leads to uneven wing shapes that won't pose properly when bent

Black Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Create your own magical Night Fury dragon with this detailed Toothless amigurumi pattern! This comprehensive guide walks you through every step of crafting an adorable 30cm black dragon complete with poseable wings, moveable joints, and expressive yellow eyes. Perfect for fans of fantasy creatures and dragon lovers, this pattern combines intermediate crochet techniques with wire framework construction to bring this beloved character to life. Whether you're making a gift for a dragon enthusiast or adding to your own collection, this pattern delivers a stunning handmade treasure that captures the playful spirit and mystical charm of the Night Fury dragon.

Advanced 18-22 Hours

Materials Needed for Black Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) in dark gray color 454
  • 02
    Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Baby Cotton in black color 460
  • 03
    Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Baby Cotton in yellow color 10
  • 04
    Lace weight/1ply yarn Alpina Lena 50g/280m (100% mercerized cotton) in yellow color for eyes

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 1.25 mm
  • 03
    Toy stuffing material (fiberfill)
  • 04
    Beading needle
  • 05
    Needle with blunt end
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Sewing pins
  • 08
    Wire diameter 0.9mm: 23cm (2pcs), 19cm (4pcs), 13cm (2pcs)
  • 09
    Wire diameter 1.6mm: 45cm (1pc)
  • 10
    Hot glue gun
  • 11
    Textile paint in black and white colors
  • 12
    Seed beads
  • 13
    Plastic joints size 25mm (2pcs for hind legs) or disks 25mm (4pcs) with T-shaped cotter pins 20x2 (4pcs)
  • 14
    Plastic joints size 15mm (2pcs for forelegs) or disks 15mm (4pcs) with T-shaped cotter pins
  • 15
    Round nose pliers
  • 16
    Fishing line or nylon thread for sewing seed beads
  • 17
    Dry pastel in black color for tinting
  • 18
    Insulating tape for wire connection

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Head :

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc)*6 (66)

Round 12 :

66sc (66)

Round 13 :

5sc, inc, (10sc, inc)*5, 5sc (72)

Round 14-21 :

72sc (8 rounds)

Round 22 :

18sc, (BLO 36sc), 18sc (72)

Round 23 :

5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)

Round 24 :

(9sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 25 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)

Round 26 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 27 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, ch3

Round 28 :

skip 2 stitches before marker and 2 stitches after marker, next crochet 1sc, dec, (3sc, dec)*6, 3sc, 1sc on the chain (32)

Round 29 :

2sc on the chain, dec, (2sc, dec)*7 (24)

Round 30 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 31 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 32 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, weave in the ends (bring all the ends to the front side). We will attach the eyes to the head with the wrong side out, as it is less relief than the front. The hole in round 27-28 will be used to bring the wire frame from the body into the head.

Head Edging :

Attach the dark gray yarn to the first unused front loop of round 21 (keep the hole away from you) and crochet: 17sc, 2hdcinc, 17sc. Cut the yarn, fasten off, hide the ends inside.

β€” Eyes (make 2) :

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, 2sc)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

3sc, 2hdcinc, 2sc (short round)

Infos :

On the wrong side of the eye, draw a pupil with black textile paint and a glare with white paint. HDC increases in round 5 are located in the upper inner corner of the eyes. Leave the eyes on the head fixed with sewing pins. We will sew and glue all the pieces at the very end. If desired, eyes, pupils and glare can be cut out of felt and glued together.

β€” Eyelids (make 2) :

Info :

Ch9, start in the second chain from the hook: sl st, 6sc, sl st. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. The mood of the dragon depends on the location of the eyelids. You can make him angry or a little sad. Try several options for the location of the eyelids and choose what you like best.

β€” Ears (make 2) :

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(1sc, inc)*3 (9)

Round 3 :

4sc, inc, 4sc (10)

Round 4 :

4sc, inc, 5sc (11)

Round 5 :

5sc, inc, 5sc (12)

Round 6 :

(inc, 5sc)*2 (14)

Round 7-8 :

14sc (2 rounds)

Round 9 :

6sc, dec, 6sc (13)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 6sc (12)

Finishing :

Fold in half and crochet through both sides 6sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head. When decorating the head focus on 2hdcinc of edging of the head. This is the center of the face.

β€” Spines 1 (make 2) :

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6sc (6)

Finishing :

Fold in half and crochet through both sides 4sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head.

β€” Spines 2 (make 2) :

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(2sc, inc)*2 (8)

Round 3 :

8sc (8)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head.

β€” Spines 3 (make 2) :

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6sc (6)

Round 3 :

(1sc, dec)*2 (4)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head.

β€” Hind Legs :

Info :

Ch8, start on the second chain from the hook

Round 1 :

6sc, 4sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 5sc, inc (17)

Round 2 :

inc, 5sc, 4inc, 5sc, 2inc (24)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 5sc, (1hdc, hdcinc)*4, 5sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (31)

Round 4 :

9sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*4, 9sc – short round (you may have a different number of stitches). Move the marker. It should pass at the back, in the center of the heel. Guideline - a straight line of the foundation chain. Align it in the process by crocheting extra stitches.

Round 5 :

31sc (31)

Round 6 :

(4sc, dec)*2, 7sc, (dec, 4sc)*2 (27)

Round 7 :

6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 6sc (24)

Round 8 :

6sc, 6dec, 6sc (18)

Round 9-13 :

18sc (5 rounds). Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part (foot).

Round 14 :

(5sc, inc)*3 (21)

Round 15-16 :

21sc (2 rounds)

Left hind leg - Round 17 :

13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (21)

Left hind leg - Round 18 :

13sc, 2sc on the chain, 6sc (21)

Left hind leg - Round 19 :

21sc (21)

Right hind leg - Round 17 :

6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (21)

Right hind leg - Round 18 :

6sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (21)

Right hind leg - Round 19 :

21sc (21)

Infos :

For plastic joints legs fastening: Select the diameter of the fastening - fold the leg in half and select a disk/joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk/joint D25mm is suitable). Insert the cotter pins / joints of the hind legs. For cotter pins legs fastening: When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and away from the marker and insert the disc with the cotter pin. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part slightly.

Round 20 :

(5sc, dec)*3 (18)

Round 21 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 22 :

6dec (6)

Finishing :

For plastic joints legs fastening: 7sc to the left (for the right hind leg) or 7sc to the right (for the left hind leg). For cotter pins legs fastening: Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside.

β€” Forelegs :

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

5sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*3, 4sc

Round 5-7 :

18sc (3 rounds)

Round 8 :

8sc, dec, 8sc (17)

Round 9 :

17sc (17)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 5sc (15)

Round 11 :

15sc (15)

Round 12 :

6sc, dec, 7sc (14)

Round 13 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 14 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Round 15 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 16 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14). Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part.

Left foreleg - Round 17 :

6sc, 2inc, 1sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16)

Left foreleg - Round 18 :

dec, 9sc, 2sc on the chain, 1sc, dec (14)

Right foreleg - Round 17 :

3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 1sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Right foreleg - Round 18 :

dec, 1sc, 2sc on the chain, 9sc, dec (14)

Infos :

For plastic joints legs fastening: Select the diameter of the fastening - fold the leg in half and select a disk/joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk/joint D15mm is suitable). For cotter pins legs fastening: When using a cotter pin, move 1 round down and away from the marker and insert the disc with the cotter pin. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part slightly.

Round 19 :

(5sc, dec)*2 (12)

Round 20 :

6dec (6)

Finishing :

For plastic joints legs fastening: 4sc to the left (for the right foreleg) or 4sc to the right (for the left foreleg). For cotter pins legs fastening: Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside.

β€” Wings (make 2) :

Info :

Take dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm, wire with a diameter of 0.9mm (23cm-2pcs., 19cm-4pcs., 13cm-2pcs. Better take it with a margin). Bend the end of each wire as shown in the photo. In the process be careful, work in rows. There will be rows where we will make t-ch and turn and rows where we will skip 1 stitch. Ch28, start from the second chain on the hook, working around the wire 23cm long (start from the bend end).

Row 1 :

27sc (27), turn. After that do not work with the wire.

Row 2 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc, dec, 12sc, dec (22), turn.

Row 3 :

from the 2nd stitch: 11sc, dec, 6sc (18), turn.

Row 4 :

from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Row 5 :

from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), turn.

Row 6 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), turn.

Row 7 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Row 8 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), turn.

Row 9 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Row 10 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), ch3, turn. Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end).

Row 11 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 3sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row (18), turn.

Row 12 :

from the 2nd stitch: 15sc, dec (16), turn.

Row 13 :

from the 2nd stitch: 7sc (7), turn.

Row 14 :

from the 2nd stitch: 6sc (6), turn.

Row 15 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (10), turn.

Row 16 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), t-ch, turn.

Row 17 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row (13), turn (1 stitch of the previous row remains unused!)

Row 18 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), t-ch, turn.

Row 19 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Row 20 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), t-ch, turn.

Row 21 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), turn.

Row 22 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc, inc (5), 3ch, turn. Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end).

Row 23 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 1sc along stitch of the previous row, + 2sc into the corners of the previous rows (19), turn.

Row 24 :

from the 2nd stitch: 18sc (18), turn.

Row 25 :

from the 2nd stitch: 17sc (17), turn.

Row 26 :

from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Row 27 :

from the 2nd stitch: 14sc (14), turn.

Row 28 :

from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), t-ch, turn.

Row 29 :

from the 2nd stitch: 11sc (11), turn.

Row 30 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, inc (11), t-ch, turn.

Row 31 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Row 32 :

from---the 2nd stitch: 7sc, inc (9), 3ch, turn. Next, crochet with a wire 13cm long (start from the bend end).

Row 33 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 8sc (8), turn.

Row 34 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Row 35 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), turn.

Row 36 :

from the 2nd stitch: 2sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (7), turn.

Row 37 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc, dec (5), t-ch, turn.

Row 38 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), t-ch, turn.

Row 39 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5)

Finishing :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Bend the wire frame along the upper side of the wing. Make an edging along the frame. Attach the dark gray yarn to the marked points in the photo (the exit point of the first wire) and crochet sc along the upper side of the wing. The green arrow shows the direction of crocheting.

β€” Tail :

Info :

Prepare a wire frame. We need a wire with a diameter of 1.6mm and 45cm long. Bend one end, as shown in the photo. Insert the frame into the tail and stuff it.

Round 1 :

4sc in a MR (6)

Round 2-4 :

4sc (3 rounds)

Round 5 :

(1sc, inc)*2 (6)

Round 6-8 :

6sc (3 rounds)

Round 9 :

(2sc, inc)*2 (8)

Round 10-11 :

8sc (2 rounds)

Round 12 :

(3sc, inc)*2 (10)

Round 13 :

10sc (10)

Round 14 :

2sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 2sc (12)

Round 15 :

12sc (12)

Round 16 :

(5sc, inc)*2 (14)

Round 17 :

14sc (14)

Round 18 :

3sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 3sc (16)

Round 19 :

16sc (16)

Round 20 :

(7sc, inc)*2 (18)

Round 21-22 :

18sc (2 rounds)

Round 23 :

4sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 4sc (20)

Round 24-26 :

20sc (3 rounds)

Round 27 :

(9sc, inc)*2 (22)

Round 28-30 :

22sc (3 rounds)

Round 31 :

5sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 5sc (24)

Round 32-33 :

24sc (2 rounds)

Round 34 :

(11sc, inc)*2 (26)

Round 35-36 :

26sc (2 rounds)

Round 37 :

6sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 6sc (28)

Round 38 :

28sc

Round 39 :

(13sc, inc)*2 (30). Do not cut the yarn. We will crochet the body.

β€” Body :

Info :

Continue crocheting from the tail. The marker of the beginning of the round passes in the back in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Start counting rounds from the beginning for convenience. Focus on 4 inc in round 1.

Round 1 :

11sc, inc, 1sc, 4inc, 1sc, inc, 11sc (36)

Round 2 :

6sc, inc, 22sc, inc, 6sc (38)

Round 3 :

14sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 14sc (40)

Round 4 :

10sc, inc, 18sc, inc, 10sc (42)

Round 5 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 6 :

48sc (48)

Round 7 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 8-9 :

54sc (2 rounds)

For plastic joints - Round 10 :

13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 24sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (54)

For plastic joints - Round 11 :

13sc, 2sc on the chain, 24sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (54)

For cotter pins - Round 10 :

54sc (mark space between stitches 14 and 15 and stitches 40 and 41 with a thread in a contrasting color for convenience) (54)

For cotter pins - Round 11 :

54sc (54)

Round 12-16 :

54sc (5 rounds)

Round 17 :

8sc, dec, (16sc, dec)*2, 8sc (51)

Round 18 :

20sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 20sc (49). Insert the cotter pins / joints of the hind legs into the marked points / holes of ch2 in the body and twist / secure.

Round 19 :

49sc (49)

Round 20 :

20sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 20sc (47)

Round 21 :

47sc (47)

Round 22 :

21sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 21sc (45)

Round 23 :

(13sc, dec)*3 (42)

Round 24 :

42sc (42)

Round 25 :

6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)

Round 26 :

39sc (39)

Round 27 :

(11sc, dec)*3 (36)

For plastic joints - Round 28 :

3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 4sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 16sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 4sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) - don't confuse! Ch1 – for the wings frames, ch2 – for the plastic joints.

For plastic joints - Round 29 :

3sc, 1sc on the chain, 4sc, 2sc on the chain, 16sc, 2sc on the chain, 4sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)

For cotter pins - Round 28 :

3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 28sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) (mark space between stitches 9 and 10 and stitches 27 and 28 with a thread in a contrasting color)

For cotter pins - Round 29 :

3sc, 1sc on the chain, 28sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)

Round 30 :

8sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 8sc (34)

Round 31 :

34sc (34)

Round 32 :

(15sc, dec)*2 (32)

Round 33 :

32sc (32). Insert the cotter pins / joints of the forelegs into the marked points / holes of ch2 in the body and twist / secure (in the same way as for the hind legs).

Round 34 :

7sc, dec, 14sc, dec, 7sc (30). Insert the wire frame of the wings into the holes in round 28, connect it with the body frame, wrap it with insulating tape. Sew the wings to the back. Continue to gradually stuff the body with fiberfill.

Round 35 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*2, 4sc (27)

Round 36 :

(7sc, dec)*3 (24)

Round 37 :

24sc (24). It is not necessary to stuff the neck tightly.

Finishing :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Pass the wire frame into the hole on the head in rounds 27-28, and sew the head to the body, as shown in the photo.

β€” Tail Fin (make 2) :

Info :

Ch13, start from the second chain on the hook, work in rows in back loops

Row 1 :

12sc (12), ch3, turn

Row 2 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Row 3 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Row 4 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Row 5 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Row 6 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13)

Finishing :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix the tail fins to the tip of the tail and sew.

β€” Spines (make 16) :

Info :

4sc in a MR. Pull the ring. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Attach the spines to the tail, body and head and sew.

β€” Final Assembly :

Info :

Sew on seed beads if desired. Tint the wings and tail fins with black dry pastel.

Assembly Instructions

  • Insert the main body wire frame through the opening in the head at rounds twenty-seven to twenty-eight, ensuring it's secure before sewing the head to the body permanently.
  • Attach the wings to the back by inserting their wire frames through the designated holes in round twenty-eight of the body, connecting them to the main body frame and wrapping with insulating tape.
  • Install plastic joints or cotter pins for the hind legs through the marked holes or spaces in round ten of the body, twisting or securing them firmly for articulation.
  • Install plastic joints or cotter pins for the forelegs through the marked holes or spaces in round twenty-eight of the body, following the same method as the hind legs.
  • Sew all the spines along the dragon's back, starting from the head and continuing down the body to the tail, maintaining even spacing for visual balance.
  • Attach the tail fins to the tip of the tail using the long yarn ends, positioning them symmetrically on both sides for proper balance.
  • Pin and sew the eyes, eyelids, and ears to the head, adjusting their position to create your desired dragon expression before final attachment with glue if needed.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘When working with wire, always bend the ends as shown in the pattern to prevent them from poking through the fabric over time
  • πŸ’‘Use extra shift stitches whenever needed to keep your round marker properly aligned, especially for symmetrical features like the face
  • πŸ’‘Stuff the dragon gradually and firmly in the lower parts of limbs, but keep the upper portions and neck lightly stuffed for better posing
  • πŸ’‘Mark the placement holes for joints or cotter pins with contrasting thread before assembling to ensure correct leg positioning
  • πŸ’‘Don't rush the wing construction - follow each row carefully as the wire placement and corner increases are critical for proper shape
  • πŸ’‘Pin all pieces in place before final sewing to test different expressions and positions until you find the look you prefer

This magnificent Black Dragon Toothless pattern brings the magic of Night Fury dragons into your hands through expert amigurumi craftsmanship! With poseable wings that capture the essence of flight, articulated legs that allow dynamic poses, and expressive yellow eyes full of personality, this pattern transforms yarn into a legendary creature worthy of any dragon lover's collection. The combination of wire armature construction and professional joint systems creates a finished piece that's both a stunning display piece and a testament to your advanced crochet skills. Whether perched majestically on a shelf or posed mid-flight across your workspace, this handcrafted dragon will be a conversation starter and treasured keepsake for years to come. πŸ‰βœ¨

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FAQs

Can I use different joint systems than the ones suggested in the pattern?

Yes! The pattern provides instructions for both plastic joints and cotter pin systems. You can choose whichever you're more comfortable with or have available. Plastic joints are easier to install and work well for display pieces, while cotter pins offer more traditional teddy bear joint construction and slightly firmer articulation.

What if I don't want to use wire in the wings and tail?

While the wire frames are what make the wings poseable and the tail sturdy, you can omit them if preferred. However, without wire, the wings will be floppy and won't hold shaped positions, and the tail may droop. If you skip the wire, you'll need to stuff these parts lightly and they'll be purely decorative rather than poseable.

How do I prevent the wire from poking through the crochet fabric?

Always bend the wire ends as shown in the pattern photos before beginning to crochet around them. This creates smooth loops that won't pierce the fabric. Additionally, when inserting wires through the body, wrap connection points with insulating tape for extra protection and to prevent sharp edges.

Can I make this dragon smaller or larger by changing hook and yarn sizes?

Yes, but keep in mind that changing sizes will affect which joint sizes you need. If you go smaller, you'll need to find appropriately sized miniature joints, and wire gauge should be adjusted accordingly. Going larger means sourcing bigger joints and thicker wire to support the increased weight. The pattern proportions will scale, but hardware must be recalculated.

What's the best way to position the eyelids for different expressions?

The pattern suggests pinning the eyelids in various positions before sewing to test different moods. For an alert, friendly look, position them higher on the eye. For a sleepy or content expression, place them lower, covering more of the yellow eye. Angling them differently on each eye can even create a playful, mischievous personality!