🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Aestas Summer Crochet Top Pattern

Aestas Summer Crochet Top Pattern
4.7★ Rating
8-12 Hours Time Needed
2.2K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic knitting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive knitting.

👕

Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Aestas Summer Crochet Top Pattern

The Aestas Top is a stunning summer garment that combines practical wearability with beautiful decorative elements. Worked seamlessly from the top down, this pattern features an openwork yoke, tailored short rows for shaping, and distinctive treble crochet panels along the sides that create an elegant, breathable effect. The pattern offers optional waist shaping to customize the fit to your body, making it truly versatile for different body types and style preferences.

Aestas Summer Crochet Top Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

This quick-working pattern uses worsted weight cotton yarn and can be completed in multiple colorways to match your entire summer wardrobe. The breathable fabric and thoughtful construction ensure comfort during the warmest months while maintaining a polished, put-together look.

Why You'll Love This Aestas Summer Crochet Top Pattern

I absolutely love how this pattern transforms simple cotton yarn into a sophisticated summer essential that you'll reach for again and again. The seamless construction means no tedious seaming, and the top-down method allows you to try it on as you work to ensure a perfect fit. I'm particularly fond of the decorative side panels that add visual interest without compromising coverage, making this piece appropriate for various settings from casual outings to summer gatherings. The pattern's flexibility with optional waist shaping means you can customize it to flatter your unique shape, and the fact that you can make several in different colors means endless styling possibilities for your summer wardrobe.

Aestas Summer Crochet Top Pattern step 1 - construction progress Aestas Summer Crochet Top Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Aestas Summer Crochet Top Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Aestas Summer Crochet Top Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love experimenting with this pattern because it's so versatile and open to creative interpretation. One of my favorite variations is working it in a variegated or ombre cotton yarn, which creates a beautiful color transition throughout the bodice and really highlights the side panel construction. The changing colors draw the eye and make the decorative stitches pop even more.

For a more bohemian look, I've tried adding an extra inch or two to the yoke by working additional rounds of the openwork pattern, creating a more dramatic off-shoulder effect that's perfect for beach vacations. You could also experiment with the side panel design by using a different stitch pattern altogether - maybe a shell stitch or a different combination of trebles and chains for a unique look.

I've also made this with a contrasting color for the side panels, which creates a sporty, color-blocked effect that's really eye-catching. Another fun variation is adding a row of surface crochet or embroidery around the neckline for extra detail, or working the hem with a scalloped edge instead of leaving it straight.

For those who want more coverage, you could easily work the yoke with fewer chain spaces to create smaller openwork sections, or even work it entirely in solid stitches for a more modest neckline. The beauty of this top-down construction is that you can try it on as you work and make adjustments to suit your personal style and comfort level perfectly.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Twisting the foundation chain when joining in the round for the yoke, which creates an irreparable twist in the entire garment structure ✗ Forgetting to count stitches carefully during the yoke rounds, leading to misalignment when working the back and front short rows later ✗ Not leaving the working loop large enough when switching to work the front short rows, causing the yarn to pull out accidentally ✗ Placing the underarm chain sections incorrectly or using the wrong stitch count, resulting in armholes that are too tight or too loose ✗ Skipping the blocking step which is crucial for cotton garments to achieve the proper drape and open up the decorative stitch patterns

Aestas Summer Crochet Top Pattern

Create your perfect summer staple with the Aestas Crochet Top, a breathable worsted cotton piece featuring elegant openwork panels along the sides. This seamless, top-down construction ensures a flattering fit while the decorative side panels add a touch of sophistication. With enough coverage for everyday wear and a breezy design perfect for warm weather, this top combines comfort with style effortlessly. The pattern includes detailed photo tutorials making it accessible even for those newer to garment construction.

Intermediate 8-12 Hours

Materials Needed for Aestas Summer Crochet Top Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton yarn in approximately 350-550 meters (385-600 yards) depending on size

— Tools Required

  • 01
    5mm crochet hook or size needed to achieve gauge
  • 02
    Darning needle for weaving in ends
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers (recommended for tracking rounds)
  • 05
    Measuring tape
  • 06
    Blocking materials (pins and blocking mat recommended)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Yoke :

Foundation :

ch 102 (108, 114, 120, 126), close with a slst to form a circle (be careful not to twist the chain)

Round 1 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each ch around, working into the back bump of the ch's, close with slst in first hdc (102 (108, 114, 120, 126) sts)

Round 2 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, [ch5, sk 2 sts, sc in next st] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch5: ch2 and dc in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 3 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 2ch + dc), [ch 6, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch6: ch3 and tr in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 4 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 3ch + tr), [ch 3, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, close with slst in first sc (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 5 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in first sc, [3 hdc in next ch-sp, hdc in next sc] repeat around, close with a slst in first hdc (136 (144, 152, 160, 168 hdc's)

— Back Short Rows :

Back Short Row 1 :

(RSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the back loop of the next 36 (41, 44, 50, 54) sts, work one more dc into both loops of next st, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 2 :

(WSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 3-8 :

as row 2. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Sizes M, L, XL only :

Back Short Row 9-10: as row 2. (x (x, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Info :

At the end of the last back short row, don't fasten off but just pull up the working loop so your work doesn't start to unravel and leave that skein to rest for a bit - we'll continue where we left off later.

— Front Short Rows :

Info :

Grab a new skein of yarn and lay the yoke flat, as a circle in front of you, right side up. Look for the last dc of the first back short row and count 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) yoke hdc's from there. Skip these sts and join the yarn to the 34th (33rd, 34th, 32nd, 32nd) hdc of the yoke.

Front Short Row 1 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in the same st (increase made), dc in the back loop of each of the next 30 (35, 38, 44, 48) hdc's, 2 dc in next st (increase made), turn. (34 (39, 42, 48, 52) dc's)

Front Short Row 2 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in same st, dc in each dc up to the last st: 2 dc in the last st (i.e. the beginning ch3 of last row), turn. (36 (41, 44, 50, 54) dc's)

Front Short Row 3 :

as previous row. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's)

Info :

Fasten off and put your hook back into the 'resting' loop where you left off after the back short rows.

— Bodice :

Bodice Round 1 :

(creating armholes and joining with the front) RSF. Turn (the last time you turn in this pattern!), ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each of the dc's across the back, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for right underarm, dc in next 38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's across the front, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for left underarm, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 2 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc and sc in each ch around, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 3 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, until the first sc of the underarm section: [ch2, 2trtog into the 1st and 4th sc, ch2, 2trtog into the 4th and 7th sc and so on (7th and 10th, 10th and 13th etc.) until you have made 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) 2trtog's; the last 2trtog should have its second 'leg' in the final sc of the underarm section, ch 2], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) 2trtog's)

Bodice Round 4 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, at underarm section: [2 sc in first ch-sp, 3 sc in each of the next 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) ch-sp's, 2 sc in the final ch-sp of underarm section (do not work into the 2trtog's)], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Bodice Round 5 :

as round 3, except underarm sections: [skip 2 sc's, tr in the 3rd sc, ch 2, 2trtog into the 3rd and 6th sc, ch 2, 2 trtog into the 6th and 9th sc, ch 2, and so on until only 1 sc remains of the underarm section: tr into the 2nd to last sc, skip the last sc] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) 2trtog's + 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) tr)

Bodice Round 6 :

as round 4, except underarm sections: [3 sc in each ch-sp, 4 sc in the last ch-sp, skip the 2trtog's] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Info :

Repeat rounds 3-6 until the top measures approx. 28 (30, 30, 32, 35) cm or 11 (12, 12, 13, 14) inches from underarm, ending with a round 4 or 6. Or work to your desired length.

— Optional Waist Shaping :

Bodice Rounds 10, 12, 14 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the beginning of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 11, 13, 15 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the end of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 22, 24 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the first st of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 23, 25 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the last st of both back and front dc panels

— Finishing :

Final Step :

Fasten off, wash and block – blocking really makes a difference to cotton garments!

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in all yarn ends securely using a darning needle, taking care to hide them within the stitches.
  • Wash the finished top according to your yarn's care instructions, typically in cool water with gentle detergent.
  • Block the top to measurements, pinning out the openwork side panels to showcase the decorative stitch pattern.
  • Pay special attention to blocking the yoke area to ensure it lays flat and the openwork pattern opens up properly.
  • Allow the top to dry completely while blocked before unpinning and wearing.

Important Notes

  • 💡Gauge is critical for garment fit - always work a gauge swatch and adjust hook size if needed to match the pattern gauge
  • 💡The top is worked seamlessly from the top down, allowing you to try it on as you work and adjust length as needed
  • 💡Cotton yarn benefits greatly from blocking - don't skip this step as it dramatically improves the drape and appearance
  • 💡When working short rows, keep your tension consistent to avoid puckering at the turns
  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the beginning of rounds and key placement points like underarm positions
  • 💡The back loop only stitches in the short rows create a fold line that helps the shaping lay flat
  • 💡Optional waist shaping can be customized to your body - try on as you go to determine best placement

The Aestas Top brings together breathable cotton, elegant openwork design, and flattering construction in one beautiful summer garment. This seamless pattern works up quickly and offers the flexibility to create multiple versions in different colors to complement your entire warm-weather wardrobe. The decorative side panels add visual interest while maintaining comfortable coverage, making this versatile piece perfect for everything from beach coverups to casual summer outings. With optional waist shaping and adjustable length, you can customize this top to fit your body perfectly. Block it well to showcase the beautiful stitch work, and enjoy wearing your handmade summer staple! 🧶☀️✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What if my gauge doesn't match exactly?

Adjust your hook size - go up a size if your gauge is too tight or down a size if it's too loose. Even a small gauge difference can significantly affect the final garment size, so it's worth taking time to get it right.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

While the pattern is written for worsted weight cotton, you can use other weights by adjusting your hook size and working a gauge swatch. Keep in mind that different yarn weights will change the finished size and drape of the garment.

How do I know which size to make?

Measure your bust circumference and choose the size closest to your measurement. The pattern is designed with minimal ease, so if you're between sizes, consider sizing up for a more relaxed fit.

Do I need to work the waist shaping?

The waist shaping is completely optional. If you prefer a straight, relaxed fit, simply omit the decreases and increases and continue working the repeat of rounds 3-6 throughout the bodice.

What's the best way to join the new yarn for the front short rows?

Join your new yarn by making a slip knot on your hook, then insert hook into the designated stitch and pull up a loop. You can weave in the tail later. Make sure to count carefully to join in the correct stitch.

Why are the side panels so important?

The decorative treble crochet panels at the underarms create visual interest, add breathability, and provide subtle shaping that prevents the top from looking boxy while maintaining comfortable coverage at front and back.