🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Tails (Sonic) Amigurumi Pattern

Tails (Sonic) Amigurumi Pattern
4.8★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
2.3K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic knitting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive knitting.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Tails (Sonic) Amigurumi Pattern

This Tails amigurumi pattern recreates the beloved Sonic sidekick in soft, huggable plush yarn at approximately 35 cm tall. The pattern covers every iconic detail — from his two signature tails and five-fingered white gloves to his red-and-white sneakers and expressive tufted muzzle. Each body part is crocheted separately and either joined in-progress or sewn on at the end, giving the finished toy a polished, professional look. The construction flows naturally from the legs up through the body, arms, and finally the head with all its charming facial features.

Tails (Sonic) Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Worked mostly in continuous rounds using plush yarn, this pattern is a rewarding build for crocheters who enjoy character detail work. The step-by-step instructions for color changes, tightening techniques, and part assembly make the process approachable and deeply satisfying.

Why You'll Love This Tails (Sonic) Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it's one of those projects that feels like storytelling through yarn. Every round brings Tails a little more to life — the moment those twin tails attach to the body, or when the muzzle gets its little smile tightened into place, it's genuinely magical. I love how the glove cuffs and sock details add that extra layer of authenticity that makes it unmistakably *him*. It's the kind of pattern that keeps you hooked (pun intended) from start to finish.

Tails (Sonic) Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Tails (Sonic) Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Tails (Sonic) Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Tails (Sonic) Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I'll be honest — when I first looked at this pattern, the five-fingered gloved hands made me a little nervous. Five fingers! In plush yarn! But I worked through them one by one, and seeing that little hand take shape was one of the most satisfying moments I've had crocheting in a long time. I started with the fingers, joined them into the palm, and before I knew it, Tails had hands that actually looked like his. I swapped to orange yarn for the arm, stuffed just the palm flat the way the pattern says, and it came out perfectly — soft, poseable, totally him.

The tails are my absolute favorite part of this whole build. I love how the color change rows in rounds 10 and 11 create that soft orange-to-white gradient, and folding them in half to close the tip with just 4 slip stitches gives such a clean finish. I stuffed mine lightly at the base and left the rest airy, and they sit behind the body with just the right amount of poof. Attaching them mid-round while building the body felt scary at first, but the markers make it so manageable — I just kept double-checking my placement and it lined up perfectly.

By the time I got to the facial assembly, I was so excited I had to slow myself down. I laid out the eyes, the muzzle, the nose, and all the little fur tufts on the head before committing to a single stitch. That try-on step? Non-negotiable. It's what makes the difference between a Tails that looks like Tails and one that looks a little… off. The tightening technique through the open head hole to form the smile was a new trick for me, and I genuinely loved how it made the whole face come alive. He looked so happy. I may have squealed a little.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when joining parts mid-round — always mark your attachment zones before the round begins to avoid misaligned limbs. ✗ Overstuffing the twin tails — they should be lightly filled at the base only to maintain their flat, natural fold shape. ✗ Forgetting to shift the stitch marker when instructed — not adjusting can misplace color change points on the feet and tails by several stitches. ✗ Using too much stuffing in the palm area — the pattern specifically calls for flat palms, so stuff lightly to preserve the hand's natural flatness. ✗ Cutting the thread too early on the second leg — this leg must remain live to continue crocheting directly into the body, so don't fasten off prematurely. ✗ Misaligning the muzzle tightening points — always mark and double-check both tightening positions symmetrically before pulling the nylon thread.

Tails (Sonic) Amigurumi Pattern

Bring Miles 'Tails' Prower to life with your own hands! This detailed crochet pattern guides you through crafting the beloved two-tailed fox from the Sonic universe, complete with his iconic orange fur, white gloves, red-and-white sneakers, and signature twin tails. Every stitch is designed to capture Tails' cheerful personality and adventurous spirit. Whether you're making this as a gift for a Sonic fan or adding a gaming-inspired piece to your plushie collection, this pattern walks you through each component step by step — from the tiny fingers and glove cuffs to the fluffy tails and expressive face details. Grab your plush yarn and hook, and let's build something magical together!

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Tails (Sonic) Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Plush yarn (120m/100g) — main shade: orange (2 skeins), plus small amounts of white, grey, red, and ivory (less than half a skein each). Recommended brands: Himalaya Dolphin Baby or YarnArt Dolce.
  • 02
    Cotton or semi-cotton yarn (~330m/100g) — black (for pupils and nose), plus shades matching plush yarn colors for sewing. Recommended brands: YarnArt Jeans, Alize Cotton Gold, Gazzal Jeans.

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm crochet hook
  • 02
    Long needle for tightening (approx. 12cm, suitable for plush yarn)
  • 03
    Needles for sewing body parts
  • 04
    Nylon thread or strong light thread (for facial tightening)
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Pins with large heads
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Fiber filling / stuffing

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Thumb :

Infos :

Make 2 details. Use white yarn. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rounds 2-5 :

4 rounds of 6 sc (6)

Finishing :

Work a chain, fold in half and crochet the sides together with 3 sc. Fasten off and cut thread.

— Other Fingers (x4, excluding thumb) :

Infos :

Make 4 details. Use white yarn. Do not stuff. Fasten off thread on 3 details; do NOT cut thread on the 4th detail — begin joining all 4 fingers from this one.

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rounds 2-6 :

5 rounds of 6 sc (6)

Round 7 (joining round) :

3 sc on 1st finger, 3 sc on 2nd finger, 3 sc on 3rd finger, 6 sc on 4th finger, 3 sc on 3rd finger, 3 sc on 2nd finger, 3 sc on 1st finger (24)

Rounds 8-12 :

5 rounds of 24 sc (24)

Info :

In Round 13 we attach the thumb. Fold the detail in half along all fingers and shift the stitch marker to the next sc from the fold line to ensure correct thumb placement.

— Arms :

Infos :

Make 2 details. Stuff only the palms so they stay flat.

Round 13 (Left Arm) :

1 sc, 3 sc with the thumb, 20 sc (24)

Round 13 (Right Arm) :

8 sc, 3 sc with the thumb, 13 sc (24)

Round 14 :

(10 sc, dec) x 2 (22)

Round 15 :

(9 sc, dec) x 2 (20)

Round 16 :

(3 sc, dec) x 4 (16)

Round 17 :

(2 sc, dec) x 4 (12)

Info :

Change thread color to orange. Fasten off and cut the white thread.

Round 18 :

(4 sc, dec) x 2 (10)

Round 19 :

(3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)

Round 20 :

(2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)

Info :

Stuff only the palm so that it stays flat.

Rounds 21-30 :

10 rounds of 6 sc (6)

Info :

If needed, work several additional sc so that the 1st finger aligns with the fold line when folded. Then work a chain, fold in half, and crochet the sides together with 3 sc. Fasten off.

— Glove Edge :

Infos :

Make 2 details. Use white yarn. Make a turn and work a turning chain at the end of each row.

Row 0 :

Chain 22

Row 1 :

Start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 21 sc

Row 2 :

BLO: 21 sc

Row 3 :

FLO: 21 sc

Assembly :

Fasten off and leave a long end to sew. Fold the detail in half so the loose front loops of rows 2 and 3 are on the front side. Carefully sew the edges, then turn out the detail. Place on the arm and fix with two stitches on opposite sides so the seam is on the opposite side from the thumb, between rounds 15 and 16 of the arm.

— Tails :

Infos :

Make 2 details. Stuff only a bit at the bottom of the tail. Start with white/ivory yarn.

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

(1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)

Round 3 :

(2 sc, inc) x 3 (12)

Round 4 :

(3 sc, inc) x 3 (15)

Round 5 :

(4 sc, inc) x 3 (18)

Round 6 :

(5 sc, inc) x 3 (21)

Round 7 :

(6 sc, inc) x 3 (24)

Round 8 :

(7 sc, inc) x 3 (27)

Round 9 :

(8 sc, inc) x 3 (30)

Round 10 :

(4 sc, change color to orange, change color back to white) x 6 (30)

Round 11 :

3 sc, change to orange, change back to white, (2 sc, change to orange, change back to white) x 4, 2 sc, change to orange — fasten off and cut white thread (30)

Round 12 :

(9 sc, inc) x 3 (33)

Round 13 :

33 sc (33)

Round 14 :

(10 sc, inc) x 3 (36)

Rounds 15-19 :

5 rounds of 36 sc (36)

Round 20 :

(10 sc, dec) x 3 (33)

Round 21 :

33 sc (33)

Round 22 :

(9 sc, dec) x 3 (30)

Round 23 :

30 sc (30)

Round 24 :

(8 sc, dec) x 3 (27)

Round 25 :

27 sc (27)

Round 26 :

(7 sc, dec) x 3 (24)

Round 27 :

24 sc (24)

Round 28 :

(6 sc, dec) x 3 (21)

Round 29 :

21 sc (21)

Round 30 :

(5 sc, dec) x 3 (18)

Round 31 :

18 sc (18)

Round 32 :

(4 sc, dec) x 3 (15)

Round 33 :

15 sc (15)

Round 34 :

(3 sc, dec) x 3 (12)

Round 35 :

12 sc (12)

Round 36 :

(2 sc, dec) x 3 (9)

Finishing :

Work a chain, fold in half, and crochet sides together with 4 sc. Fasten off.

— Feet & Legs :

Infos :

Make 2 details. Stuff in process. Start with grey yarn. Work in spiral (oval-shaped detail).

Row 0 :

Chain 10

Round 1 :

Start in 2nd chain from hook: 8 sc, 3 sc into last chain, on other side: 7 sc, inc (20)

Round 2 :

Inc, 7 sc, 3 inc, 7 sc, 2 inc (26)

Round 3 :

1 sc, inc, 7 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 3, 7 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 2 (32)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 2, 4 sc, (2 sc, inc) x 3, 4 sc, (2 sc, inc) x 3 (40)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 2, 4 sc, (3 sc, inc) x 3, 4 sc, (3 sc, inc) x 3 (48)

Info :

Divide the oval in half and mark 24 sc in front and at the back — these will be the color change points between red and white. Change color to red; do not cut the grey thread, leave it on the outside for further crocheting.

Round 6 :

BLO: 11 sc, change to white, 24 sc, change to red, 13 sc (48)

Info :

Place stitch marker in the 13th sc worked with red thread — it should be in the middle of the heel. This is the beginning of the next round.

Round 7 :

12 sc, change to white, 8 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc, change to red, 12 sc (44)

Info :

Return to grey thread (do not cut the red). Work 48 ss in the loose front loops of Round 5. Join the round with ss, fasten off, and hide thread inside the foot. Continue crocheting the foot with red thread.

Round 8 :

12 sc, change to white, 6 sc, 4 dec, 6 sc, change to red, 12 sc (40)

Round 9 :

12 sc, change to white, 4 sc, 4 dec, 4 sc, change to red, 12 sc (36)

Round 10 :

12 sc, change to white, 2 sc, 4 dec, 2 sc, change to red, 12 sc (32)

Round 11 :

12 sc, change to white, 4 dec, change to red — fasten off and cut white thread, 12 sc (28)

Round 12 :

10 sc, 4 dec, 10 sc (24)

Round 13 :

8 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc (20)

Round 14 :

6 sc, 4 dec, 6 sc (16)

Info :

Stuff the foot tightly, keeping a pointed triangle shape. Then change thread color to orange.

Round 15 :

(6 sc, dec) x 2 (14)

Round 16 :

(5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)

Round 17 :

(4 sc, dec) x 2 (10)

Round 18 :

(3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)

Info :

Stuff the ankle well, then continue stuffing the leg in process.

Rounds 19-29 :

11 rounds of 8 sc (8)

Info :

Fasten off on the first leg — this is the left leg. Do NOT fasten off on the second (right) leg. Work several additional sc (or drop a few) so the end of the round sits on the inner side. Continue directly to crocheting the body.

— Sock Details :

Infos :

Make 2 details. Use white yarn. Make a turn and work a turning chain at the end of each row.

Row 0 :

Chain 27

Row 1 :

Start in 2nd chain from hook: 26 sc

Row 2 :

BLO: 26 sc

Row 3 :

26 sc

Row 4 :

BLO: 26 sc

Row 5 :

26 sc

Assembly :

Fasten off and leave a long end to sew. Wrap the detail around the leg so the front loose loops of rows 1 and 3 are on the front side and the start chain is on top. Carefully sew the edges without removing from the leg (seam goes upward). Turn the detail on the leg to the other side. Fix from the bottom (back and front) with several stitches for the loops of the start chain two rows below the color change line. Tie thread ends into a knot and hide inside the foot.

— Body :

Info :

Stitch marker is on the back. Stuff in process. Chain 4 from the right leg. Attach both legs and continue crocheting on the left leg from the back side.

Round 30 :

On left leg: 8 sc, on chain: 4 sc, on right leg: 8 sc, on chain: 4 sc (24)

Round 31 :

(2 sc, inc) x 8 (32)

Round 32 :

(3 sc, inc) x 8 (40)

Round 33 :

40 sc (40)

Info :

In rounds 34-35 we will attach the tails. Mark 8 sc in the middle of the back as the attachment zone. Double-check with markers as the attachment placement may vary. Both tails may land entirely in round 34 if the beginning of the round has not shifted.

Round 34 :

34 sc, 4 sc with 1st tail, 2 sc with 2nd tail (40)

Round 35 :

2 sc with 2nd tail, 38 sc (40)

Round 36 :

40 sc (40)

Round 37 :

(8 sc, dec) x 4 (36)

Round 38 :

36 sc (36)

Round 39 :

(10 sc, dec) x 3 (33)

Round 40 :

33 sc (33)

Round 41 :

(9 sc, dec) x 3 (30)

Round 42 :

30 sc (30)

Round 43 :

(8 sc, dec) x 3 (27)

Round 44 :

(7 sc, dec) x 3 (24)

Info :

In round 45 we attach the arms. Mark 3 sc (attachment point) at a distance of 9 sc from the front and back. Double-check placement with markers and adjust the stitch marker if needed.

Round 45 :

5 sc, 3 sc with arm, 9 sc, 3 sc with arm, 4 sc (24)

Round 46 :

(6 sc, dec) x 3 (21)

Round 47 :

(5 sc, dec) x 3 (18)

— Head :

Info :

The head is crocheted continuing from the body. Round 48 is the first round of the head. When stuffing the head, note that it is narrower at the bottom than at the top.

Round 48 :

(1 sc, inc) x 9 (27)

Round 49 :

(2 sc, inc) x 9 (36)

Round 50 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 51 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Rounds 52-55 :

4 rounds of 48 sc (48)

Round 56 :

(15 sc, inc) x 3 (51)

Round 57 :

(16 sc, inc) x 3 (54)

Rounds 58-60 :

3 rounds of 54 sc (54)

Round 61 :

(17 sc, inc) x 3 (57)

Round 62 :

(18 sc, inc) x 3 (60)

Round 63 :

60 sc (60)

Round 64 :

(8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

Round 65 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 66 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 67 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 68 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 69 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 70 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 71 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 72 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Do NOT tighten the hole — it will be needed for muzzle tightening. Fasten off and leave a long end for tightening the hole.

— Belly Detail :

Infos :

Use ivory yarn. Make a turn and work a turning chain at the end of each row.

Row 0 :

Chain 11

Row 1 :

Start in 2nd chain from hook: 10 sc

Rows 2-3 :

2 rounds of 10 sc

Row 4 :

Skip a st, 9 sc (9)

Row 5 :

Skip a st, 8 sc (8)

Rows 6-9 :

4 rounds of 8 sc (8)

Row 10 :

Skip a st, 5 sc, dec (6)

Edge Detail :

Work along the edge: work a chain, then alternating single crochets with chain-loop spikes to form the fur fringe — chain 4 spike (ss, 2 sc), chain 3 spikes (ss, sc), 6 sc, 3 sc in corner, 8 sc, 3 sc in corner, 6 sc, chain 3 spikes (ss, sc), chain 4 spike (ss, 2 sc), finish with sc. Fasten off. Sew onto the belly with a thin matching cotton thread. Do not sew down the fur ends around the edges.

— Muzzle Fur Tufts :

Infos :

Make 2 details of each size (large, middle, small). Use ivory yarn.

Large :

Chain 6. Row 1: start in 2nd chain from hook: ss, sc, 3 hdc (5). Fasten off.

Middle :

Chain 5. Row 1: start in 2nd chain from hook: ss, sc, 2 hdc (4). Fasten off.

Small :

Chain 4. Row 1: start in 2nd chain from hook: ss, sc, hdc (3). Fasten off.

— Muzzle :

Info :

Use ivory yarn.

Row 0 :

Chain 14

Round 1 :

Start in 2nd chain from hook: 12 sc, 3 sc into last chain, on other side: 11 sc, inc (28)

Round 2 :

Inc, 11 sc, 3 inc, 5 sc, 3 sc in one st, 5 sc, 2 inc (36)

Round 3 :

1 sc, inc, 11 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 3, 6 sc, 3 sc in one st, 6 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 2 (44)

Info :

In Round 4 we attach the fur tuft ends. Each detail takes 2 sc on the muzzle. The last details will extend into Round 5 — move the stitch marker to the next sc after working the last detail. Adjust symmetry as needed.

Round 4 :

15 sc, 2 sc with small tuft, 2 sc with middle tuft, 2 sc with large tuft, 20 sc, 2 sc with large tuft, 2 sc with middle tuft, 2 sc with small tuft (44 + 3 sc shifting)

Round 5 :

44 sc

Assembly :

Finish with a straight line. Tie all thread ends into knots on the wrong side. Mark the middle of the detail from above, fold in half inside out, and sew or work 3 ss at the top to form the muzzle shape. Turn out to the front side.

— Nose :

Info :

Use black semi-cotton yarn. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Rounds 2-3 :

2 rounds of 6 sc (6)

Info :

Tighten the hole and leave a long end to sew. Sew the nose onto the muzzle one row below the seam line.

— Eyes :

Eye White :

Make 2 details. Use white yarn. Chain 10. Round 1: start in 2nd chain from hook: 8 sc, 3 sc into last chain, on other side: 8 sc, turning chain, turn (19). Round 2 — Right eye: 9 sc, 3 inc, 7 sc (22). Round 2 — Left eye: 7 sc, 3 inc, 9 sc (22). Fasten off.

Pupils :

Make 2 details using black semi-cotton yarn. Chain 7. Round 1: start in 2nd chain from hook: 5 sc, 3 sc into last chain, on other side: 4 sc, inc (14). Fasten off and leave a long end to sew. Sew pupils onto eyes 2 rows above the lower edge, shifted toward the center. Embroider highlights.

— Ears :

Inner Part :

Make 2 details. Use ivory yarn. Make a turn and work a turning chain at the end of each row. Chain 2. Then increase rows: row 1: inc (2); row 2: inc, sc (3); row 3: inc, 2 sc (4); row 4: inc, 3 sc (5); row 5: inc, 4 sc (6); row 6: inc, 5 sc (7); row 7: inc, 6 sc (8); row 8: inc, 7 sc (9); row 9: inc, 8 sc (10); row 10: inc, 9 sc (11); row 11: inc, 9 sc, inc (13). Fasten off and hide threads along one side between the loops.

Outer Part :

Make 2 details. Use orange yarn. Make a turn and work a turning chain at the end of each row. Chain 2. Then increase rows same as inner part through 10 rows (ending at 11 st). Work a chain, then work the edges: 10 sc on one side, 3 sc in the top, 10 sc on the other side. Do not cut thread — continue to assemble with the inner part. Attach the ivory inner part to the outer part and crochet both together with sc along the full triangular outline. Work 3 sc in one st at each corner. Fasten off and leave a long end to sew.

— Hair Locks :

Infos :

Make 3 details. Use orange yarn. Make a turn and work a turning chain at the end of each row.

Row 0 :

Chain 3

Row 1 :

Start in 2nd chain from hook: 2 sc

Rows 2-7 :

6 rows of 2 sc

Row 8 :

Skip a st, sc (1)

Row 9 :

1 sc

Finishing :

Work a chain, turn the detail on its side and work a ss series along the side back to the initial row. Fasten off and leave a long end to sew.

— Head Assembly :

Infos :

Place all details carefully on the head. Fix each one before sewing to avoid shifting. Count rounds from Round 48 (first round of the head).

Eyes Placement :

Place eyes approximately in the area of rounds 5-15 (from Rd 48), with a distance of 1-2 sc between them. Remove muzzle and sew eyes along the contour with thin matching cotton thread. Mark points on sides of each eye for embroidering the eyelid, then embroider the eyelid.

Muzzle Placement :

Place muzzle in the area of rounds 1-7. The side edges of the muzzle are raised up. In the eye area, move the muzzle one row lower to form grooves under the eyes. Lightly stuff the muzzle when trying it on. Sew the muzzle onto the head, stuffing it in the process.

Tightening :

Mark 4 tightening points: 2 points on each side of the muzzle with 1 sc between them (6 sc and 8 sc apart respectively). Using nylon or strong cotton thread, insert needle from above through the open hole in the head and withdraw at the outer tightening point. Re-insert at the adjacent point back through the open hole. Pull and tie threads into a knot. Repeat on the opposite side.

Smile :

Embroider the outline of a smile with black thread through the open hole in the head. The thread lies on the same round as the tightening line and does not go lower. The arc forms naturally from the tightening points lifting the smile line upward.

Final Head Steps :

Hide all thread ends into the open hole. If needed, add more stuffing to the top of the head, then tighten and close the hole, hiding the thread inside. Place ears on the sides of the head in the area of rounds 14-20 and sew with matching cotton thread. Sew the three hair locks onto the top of the head.

Assembly Instructions

  • After completing both legs, chain 4 and join them together by crocheting across both legs and the chain to start the body in the round.
  • Attach both tails to the back of the body during rounds 34-35, using stitch markers to ensure they are centered and symmetrically placed before securing.
  • Attach both arms to the body during round 45, positioning them at equal distances from the front and back center lines to keep the toy balanced.
  • Continue crocheting the head directly from the body starting at round 48, stuffing firmly as you decrease and shaping the head narrower at the bottom.
  • Sew the eyes and muzzle onto the head, adjusting placement carefully. Tighten the muzzle points with nylon thread through the open hole to form the smile.
  • Attach the ears to the sides of the head in the area of rounds 14-20 from the first head round, and sew the three hair locks on top.
  • Wrap the glove cuffs around the wrists between rounds 15-16 with the seam away from the thumb, and wrap the sock details around the lower legs before final finishing.

Important Notes

  • 💡Always use stitch markers and reposition them as instructed — the beginning of the round naturally shifts and misreading it will throw off color changes and part attachments.
  • 💡When crocheting with plush yarn, sew nearly all parts using a matching semi-cotton thread for cleaner, more durable joins.
  • 💡The head hole should NOT be closed after the last decrease round — it stays open and is used to perform the muzzle tightening and smile embroidery.
  • 💡Stuff the feet firmly into a pointed triangle shape, but stuff the palms and tails only lightly to maintain their intended flat and natural forms.
  • 💡Do not fasten off the second (right) leg — it must remain live to continue directly into the body round.

This Tails amigurumi is a love letter to every Sonic fan who grew up cheering for the little two-tailed fox. I designed every detail — from the fluffy white-tipped tails and gloved five-fingered hands to the cheerful tufted muzzle — to make this feel as close to the real character as yarn can get. It's the kind of project that rewards your patience at every step, and the finished plushie is genuinely one you'll want to display with pride. Whether it ends up on a shelf, in someone's arms, or gifted to a fellow Sonic lover, this little guy brings pure joy. 🧶🦊✨

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FAQs

What type of yarn works best for this Tails pattern?

The pattern is designed for plush yarn (120m/100g) such as Himalaya Dolphin Baby or YarnArt Dolce. These give the toy its soft, fluffy appearance. For sewing the parts together and working the nose and pupils, a semi-cotton yarn like YarnArt Jeans is recommended.

What finished size will the Tails toy be?

When made with the recommended plush yarn and a 3.5mm hook, the finished toy is approximately 35 cm (about 13.7 inches) tall. Keep in mind that your personal crochet tension and technique can affect the final size slightly.

How much yarn do I need in total?

You will need 2 skeins of the main orange shade (each skein 131 yds/3.5 oz). For white, grey, red, ivory, and black, less than half a skein of each is sufficient. Black semi-cotton yarn is used only for the nose and pupils.

Can I sew the arms and tails on instead of attaching them mid-round?

Yes! The pattern notes that while the arms and tails are designed to be attached during specific rounds of crocheting the body, you can always choose to crochet the body fully first and sew them on afterward at the specified round positions.

Why does my beginning-of-round position keep shifting?

This is completely normal when crocheting in continuous rounds. The shift depends on your individual tension, technique, and stitch method. The pattern accounts for this and instructs you to use stitch markers and adjust them as needed so that color changes and part attachments land in the correct place.

Why should I leave the hole in the head open after finishing?

The open hole at the top of the head is intentional — it is used to pass the tightening thread through when forming the muzzle indentations and smile. Only after all facial tightening and smile embroidery is complete do you stuff the head further and close the hole.

Is this pattern suitable for beginners?

This pattern is best suited for intermediate crocheters. It involves working with plush yarn, managing multiple color changes, attaching parts in-round, and detailed facial assembly. If you're comfortable with basic amigurumi construction and color changes, you'll find this pattern very manageable and rewarding.