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Mimosa Baby Doll Amigurumi Pattern

Mimosa Baby Doll Amigurumi Pattern
4.4★ Rating
25-30 Hours Time Needed
4.2K Made This
✂️

Advanced Level

Designed for experienced knitters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

⏱️

Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Mimosa Baby Doll Amigurumi Pattern

The Mimosa Baby doll pattern is a masterpiece of amigurumi artistry, standing at approximately 35cm tall. This comprehensive pattern guides you through creating a lifelike baby doll with incredibly detailed features including embroidered eyes with realistic pupils and irises, sculpted facial features, and beautiful hair transplantation techniques. The pattern includes complete instructions for an entire wardrobe: a sweet t-shirt with button details, charming purple overalls with pockets, comfortable shoes with laces, cozy socks, and an adorable cat-eared hat.

Mimosa Baby Doll Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

What sets this pattern apart is the extraordinary attention to detail in the eye embroidery technique, complete with YouTube video links for guidance. The doll features posable arms and neck using wire armature, realistic body proportions with shaped calves and knees, and even includes makeup application techniques using dry crayons for a truly lifelike finish.

Why You'll Love This Mimosa Baby Doll Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it transforms crochet into true sculptural art! The detailed eye embroidery technique creates such expressive, soulful eyes that bring the doll to life in a way I've never experienced before. I'm captivated by how the pattern teaches you to create realistic facial features and body proportions—the shaped legs with defined calves and knees are remarkable. The complete wardrobe is like creating a tiny fashion collection, and I adore the versatility of dressing and styling the finished doll. What really excites me is the hair transplantation technique; it's meditative and rewarding to see the doll's personality emerge strand by strand. This isn't just a crochet project—it's an heirloom piece that showcases advanced skills while creating something truly precious and gift-worthy.

Mimosa Baby Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Mimosa Baby Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Mimosa Baby Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Mimosa Baby Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love experimenting with different colorways for this Mimosa Baby doll to create unique personalities! Instead of the traditional skin tones, I've tried making fantasy dolls with pastel purple or mint green skin for a whimsical fairy vibe. The purple overalls can easily be swapped for any color that matches your vision - I've done soft pinks, sunny yellows, and even a rainbow stripe version by changing colors every few rows.

For the hair, I've explored different textures and colors beyond the standard brown. Mixing metallic gold thread with regular yarn creates a gorgeous sun-kissed effect, while using fluffy mohair blend gives the doll an ethereal, cloud-like hairstyle. You could even try yarn with subtle color variations for natural-looking highlights.

The cat hat is adorable, but I've also designed alternative accessories - a bear-eared hood, a simple beanie with a pom-pom, or even a flower crown made with tiny crocheted blooms. The clothing patterns are perfect for customization too. I've added lace trim to the t-shirt edges, embroidered tiny flowers on the overall pockets, and even created a matching bow headband.

For a boy doll version, I replace the dress-style overalls with shorts that end at row 25, make the t-shirt in bold stripes, and swap the shoes for tiny sneakers by adding a different sole pattern. The possibilities are truly endless when you use this pattern as your creative foundation!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stuffing every 5-6 rows leads to lumpy, misshapen body parts that lose their realistic proportions and form ✗ Not following the exact eye placement measurements results in crossed or uneven eyes that ruin the doll's expression completely ✗ Overstuffing the head makes it too firm and distorts the facial features while understuffing creates a floppy appearance ✗ Neglecting to use stitch markers during head construction causes row count errors that throw off all facial feature placement ✗ Failing to tighten the heel gathering stitches properly leaves gaps and creates an unrealistic foot shape that won't support the doll ✗ Not bending wire ends and taping them can cause sharp points to poke through fabric and create safety hazards

Mimosa Baby Doll Amigurumi Pattern

Create an enchanting 35cm Mimosa Baby doll with this detailed amigurumi pattern! This beautiful design features intricate eye embroidery, lifelike facial details, and a complete wardrobe including a charming dress, t-shirt, overalls, shoes, and adorable cat hat. Perfect for intermediate crocheters ready to challenge themselves with advanced techniques like detailed eye work, hair transplantation, and miniature clothing construction. Bring this sweet companion to life stitch by stitch!

Advanced 25-30 Hours

Materials Needed for Mimosa Baby Doll Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    2 pieces of Peria Baby Soft Cotton in skin color 17
  • 02
    1 piece of Peria Baby Soft Cotton in white 13
  • 03
    1 Schachenmayr Catania in green 419
  • 04
    1 Schachenmayr Catania in purple 240
  • 05
    1 Gazzal Baby Cotton in lilac 3422
  • 06
    1 Trade Diva 55
  • 07
    Paper rope in dark straw color
  • 08
    2 pieces of Viburnum Etamine 840 for hair
  • 09
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 in light blue K0028
  • 10
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 in dark blue K00147
  • 11
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 in brown K0035
  • 12
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 in white
  • 13
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 in black
  • 14
    Örenbayan Cotton Perle in pink 465
  • 15
    Alize Diva in white for socks

— Tools Required

  • 01
    2.00 mm crochet hook
  • 02
    2.20 mm crochet hook
  • 03
    2.5 size skewer
  • 04
    Bead fiber stuffing
  • 05
    3 white buttons 8mm for t-shirt back
  • 06
    1 purple button 8mm for dress back
  • 07
    7 white buttons 6mm for dress front
  • 08
    Etamine needle for sewing
  • 09
    Society needle for embroidery
  • 10
    Quilt needle for eye embroidery
  • 11
    Pacifier chain rope or parachute rope (half meter) for shoelaces
  • 12
    70cm of 2.5mm electrical wire for neck and arms
  • 13
    Dry crayon for makeup and aging effects
  • 14
    Stitch markers
  • 15
    Scissors
  • 16
    Flying pen (disappearing ink marker)
  • 17
    Pins for marking

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— HEAD :

Row 1 :

6x into the magic ring (6)

Row 2 :

6v (12)

Row 3 :

(x, v)*6 (18)

Row 4 :

(2x,v)*6 (24)

Row 5 :

(3x,v)*6 (30)

Row 6 :

(4x,v)*6 (36)

Row 7 :

(5x,v)*6 (42)

Row 8 :

(6x,v)*6 (48)

Info :

When knitting the head, mark the heads of the rows with the marker

Row 9 :

(7x,v)*6 (54)

Row 10 :

(8x,v)*6 (60)

Row 11 :

(9x,v)*6 (66)

Row 12 :

(10x,v)*6 (72)

Rows 13-27 :

72x (15 rows)

Info :

Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be knitted

— EYE PROCESSING :

Infos :

Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. There are 11 sc between the points marked to process the pupils. Eye distance can be zoomed in and out optionally. The concept of tour will be used when processing the eye. The tour consists of two stages. In the first stage, basting is done by sinking into the folds of the frequent needles. In the second stage, the round is completed by going through all the basting stitches. Eye processing YouTube link: https://youtu.be/UUQV31Uj2nk

Step 1 :

Draw a circle with a flying pencil so that the diameter of the pupils corresponds to two single needles. Attach a single layer of black domino thread to the needle. Complete the first step by basting the circumference of the circle from the multiples of the frequent needles. In the second stage, complete the tour by passing from the outside to the inside under each of the stitches you have worked on

Step 2 :

Remove the needle from the upper part of the eye and pass under the opposite stitches to fill the pupil. Process horizontally all the way down, taking care not to overlap the threads while embroidering. If you could not provide an oval image to the pupil, try to get the correct shape by sinking around it a few times

Step 3 :

Draw the iris of the eye in a circle, leaving a single needle around the pupil. Starting from the upper part of the eye with dark blue thread, embroider around the iris by basting from the fold of the loops. Complete the round by passing under each of the stitches you have embroidered from the outside to the inside

Step 4 :

Process one more round into the iris

Step 5 :

Embroider the upper half of the iris with another round of dark blue thread. The remaining half will be embroidered with light blue thread

Step 6 :

With a double layer of light blue thread, embroider the half part under the pupil. The width and length of the iris is 4 sc. Process the other iris in the same way

Step 7 :

To embroider the white part of the eye, draw a circle starting from the bottom row of the inner part of the eye and ending at the highest point of the outer part of the eye. The part of the circle on the nose side of the eye should be the width of a single needle, expand a little more towards the outer part, and taper a little more towards the top

Step 8 :

Complete the first step by basting around the circle you have drawn, starting from the top. At the end of the first stage, remove the needle from the starting point and complete the tour by doing the second stage

Step 9 :

Do one more round in the same way

Step 10 :

Since the upper white part of the eye is full, start the new round from the untreated area and process one more round. If there are 3 rounds of processing on the white part, but there are still empty spaces, one more round can be made or the empty spaces can be retouched

Step 11 :

A round will be made with the same technique between the blue and white part of the eye with the black rope. Process the other eye in the same way

Lower Lash Line Step 1 :

Sink into the second row from the bottom of the outer part of the eye. Baste up to the corner of the eye. Complete the tour by sinking in from the eye spring and leaving the starting point and embroidering over the basting stitches

Lower Lash Line Step 2 :

Do one more round, starting from the top row of the lower lash line and up to the corner of the eye

Eyelash Step 1 :

Come out from the upper row of the lower line of the eyelash and sink into the root of the eyelash. Repeat the same action on the same eyelash

Eyelash Step 2 :

Determine the places of the other eyelashes. First, a small eyelash will be processed by sinking further than the point you have determined. Then, insert the needle under the small eyelash and exit from the point you have determined and sink into the root of the eyelash. Complete the other eyelashes with this technique

Eye Shimmer :

Attach two layers of white thread to the quilt needle. Process both eyes in the same way as in the pictures. Eye processing is finished

— HEAD CONTINUED :

Row 28-30 :

72x (3 rows)

Row 31 :

2x, a, (10x,a)*5, 8x (66)

Row 32 :

5x, a, (9x,a)*5, 4x (60)

Row 33 :

(8x,a)*6 (54)

Row 34 :

2x, a, (7x,a)*5, 5x (48)

Row 35 :

5x, a, (6x,a)*5, x (42)

Info :

Fill the head

Row 38 :

2x, a, (5x,a)*5, 3x (36)

Row 39 :

(4x,a)*6 (30)

Row 40 :

(3x,a)*6 (24)

Info :

Fill the head. While filling the head, fill it as round as possible without disturbing its form. If you fill to the sides after the filling process is finished, the head will be more rounded

Row 41 :

(x,a)*8, sl st (16)

Info :

Head done, cut the rope

— FACIAL DETAILS :

Nose :

It will be embroidered by leaving two single needles spaced, two rows below the eye, coinciding with the middle level of the two eyes. Separate the yarn into layers. Process the nose by sinking in and out 4-5 times

Eyebrow :

Embroider the eyebrows one row above the lashes, leaving 9 single needles with a width of 5 sc between the two eyebrows

Lips :

Determine the place of the lip with pins, leaving 3 single needles down the nose, and 3 frequent needles. Attach the thread to the needle in two layers. To embroider the lip, the triangle shape will be created. Enter through the neck space and exit from the designated point on the left. Dive into the middle of the lip in the upper row and exit from the determined point on the right. To form the other side of the triangle, sink to the upper point and exit the neck space. Enter from the left of the lip and enter from the right and exit the neck cavity. Lip processing YouTube link: https://youtu.be/Q3ZyjkKUoHQ

Lip Round 1 :

Lip shaping will be created by wrapping the triangle. Insert the needle under the thread and exit from the top to embroider. Starting from the top left edge, loop the rope 5 times. Take care not to overlap the yarn and to keep it regularly side by side. Do the same to the right side of the upper lip. Complete the round by wrapping the bottom edge 6-7 times

Lip Round 2 :

In the second round, if you make 3-4 loops on the outer lips and the loops on the lips towards the middle part, it will stop. Intensity of 4 to the lower lip, middle of the lower lip. Lip fullness can be increased upon request

Lip Line :

Make the lip line by following the images. Submerge by skipping one single needle on the sides

— ARM :

Info :

Start with skin color. The arms will not be filled with fibers

Row 1 :

6x into the magic ring (6)

Row 2 :

2v, x, 2v, x (10)

Row 3 :

2x, v, 4x, v, 2x (12)

Row 4 :

3x, v, 5x, v, 2x (14)

Row 5 :

4x, v, 9x (15)

Row 6-8 :

15x (3 rows)

Row 9 :

4x, a, 6x, a, x (13)

Row 10 :

11x (12)

Rows 11-36 :

12x, sl st, done break the thread (26 rows)

Info :

Knit the other arm in the same way

— FOOT RECIPE :

Info :

Start with tan yarn. The two feet will be knitted with the same recipe and the right and left legs will be continued with separate recipes

Row 1 :

9ch check. Starting from 2ch, into the first loop 2x, 6x, into the same loop 3x, 7x (18)

Row 2 :

v, 8x, v, 8x (20)

Rows 3-10 :

20x (8 rows)

Row 11 :

3x, 7ch and skip 9x, 8x

Row 12 :

3x, 7x on 7 chain, 8x (18)

Info :

It will continue with the heel part

Row 13 :

(x,a)*6 (12)

Row 14 :

6a, the heel is over, leave a long rope to collect the heel and break the rope (6)

Info :

Gather the needle and 6 sc needles from the flo loops, tighten them well, knot the thread inside the foot and hide it. The foot is over, the leg will be passed. Knit the other foot in the same way

— LEFT LEG RECIPE :

Infos :

Right and left leg nomenclature represents the right and left legs of the baby. If this is not taken care of, the legs may fall out. The recipe is the same until the knee cap on the right and left legs; The fact that the calf of the right leg protrudes to the right and the calf of the left leg to the left is completely related to the filling. While filling, try to obtain the form in the visuals by checking the image by putting the leg a little farther. The shape of the legs depends on the regularity of the filling, and it is absolutely necessary to fill in every 5-6 rows. While filling, the left foot and leg should always be filled to the left of the leg, creating a protruding image on the calf and carefully filling

Row 1 :

We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18). This will be the top of the line

Row 2 :

4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)

Info :

Fill without disturbing the form of the foot

Rows 3-6 :

16x (4 rows)

Info :

Fill the wrist. Pay attention to the prewritten tips in leg filling

Row 7 :

v, 15x (17)

Row 8 :

17x

Row 9 :

x, v, 15x (18)

Row 10 :

18x

Row 11 :

2x, v, 15x (19)

Row 12 :

3x, v, 15x (20)

Info :

Fill the leg. When we turn the toe to ourselves, the right part of the left leg will be the calf (blue arrow side) and this side will be protruded. Always add more filling to the protruding part. Keep the leg away and check the image frequently

Row 13 :

20x

Row 14 :

4x, v, 15x (21)

Row 15 :

21x

Row 16 :

5x, v, 15x (22)

Row 17 :

22x

Row 18 :

6x, v, 15x (23)

Rows 19-23 :

23x (5 rows)

Info :

The side indicated by the arrow should be filled more oval and the other side should be left more vertical. More filling should be done on the arrow side

Row 24 :

5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)

Row 25 :

21x

Row 26 :

4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)

Row 27 :

5x, a, 5x, 4v, 3x (22). The 27th row is the 4v kneecap. If there is a shift in the raises due to the hand difference, you can scroll the knee raises. Change the head of the line accordingly and continue with the recipe

Row 28 :

22x

Row 29 :

11x, 4a, 3x (18)

Row 30 :

4x, v, x, v, 11x (20)

Row 31 :

20x

Row 32 :

6x, v, 13x (21)

Row 33 :

21x

Row 34 :

6x, v, x, v, 12x (23)

Row 35 :

23x

Row 36 :

8x, v, 14x (24)

Row 37 :

24x

Row 38 :

9x, v, 14x (25)

Row 39 :

25x

Row 40 :

10x, v, 14x (26)

Row 41 :

26x

Row 42 :

11x, v, 14x (27)

Row 43 :

27x

Row 44 :

12x, v, 14x (28)

Row 45 :

4x with tan, 24x with white thread (28). White rope is used for the leg part of the shorts

Row 46 :

28x

Row 47 :

4x, sl st, finish, break the thread. Left leg done

— RIGHT LEG RECIPE :

Info :

When filling, the right foot and leg should always be filled to the right of the leg to create a protruding image on the calf. The right leg is knitted with the same recipe as the left leg until the 26th row. The difference in appearance in the two lower legs is all about filling

Row 1 :

We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18). This will be the top of the line

Row 2 :

4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)

Rows 3-6 :

16x (4 rows)

Info :

Fill the wrist. When we turn the toe to ourselves, the left part of the right leg will be the calf (blue arrow side) and this side will be protruded. Always add more filling to the protruding part. Keep the leg away and check the image frequently. Proceed by making a filling in 4-5 rows

Row 7 :

v, 15x (17)

Row 8 :

17x

Row 9 :

x, v, 15x (18)

Row 10 :

18x

Row 11 :

2x, v, 15x (19)

Row 12 :

3x, v, 15x (20)< /p>

Row 13 :

20x

Row 14 :

4x, v, 15x (21)

Row 15 :

21x

Row 16 :

5x, v, 15x (22)

Row 17 :

22x

Row 18 :

6x, v, 15x (23)

Info :

The side indicated by the arrow should be filled more oval and the other side should be left more vertical. More filling should be done on the arrow side

Rows 19-23 :

23x (5 rows)

Row 24 :

5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)

Row 25 :

21x

Row 26 :

4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)

Row 27 :

5x, a, 7x, 4v, x (22). The 27th row is the 4v kneecap. If there is a shift in the raises due to the hand difference, you can scroll the knee raises. Change the head of the line accordingly and continue with the recipe

Row 28 :

22x

Row 29 :

13x, 4a, x (18)

Row 30 :

4x, v, x, v, 11x (20)

Row 31 :

20x

Row 32 :

6x, v, 13x (21)

Row 33 :

21x

Row 34 :

7x, v, x, v, 11x (23)

Row 35 :

23x

Row 36 :

8x, v, 14x (24)

Row 37 :

24x

Row 38 :

9x, v, 14x (25)

Row 39 :

25x

Row 40 :

10x, v, 14x (26)

Row 41 :

26x

Row 42 :

11x, v, 14x (27)

Row 43 :

27x

Row 44 :

12x, v, 14x (28)

Row 45 :

23x with nude, 5x with white thread (28). White rope is used for the leg part of the shorts

Row 46 :

28x

Row 47 :

23x, do not break the rope, it will continue to the body. Right leg done

— BODY DESCRIPTION :

Infos :

Feet will be bent inward and legs will be turned towards each other (crooked). If the desired crookedness is not achieved even though you have combined the legs according to the recipe due to the hand difference, combine the legs by aligning them at the desired skewness. Continue with the white thread. Baby's shorts are made

Row 1 :

Continue from the right leg, pull 4 ch, sink into the first loop next to the sl st loop on the left leg, and make 14 frequent crochets, an increase, 13 frequent crochets on the left leg. Switch to the right leg and make 13 frequent crochets, one increase, 14 frequent crochets. Do 4x on Zn (66). This will be the headland

Rows 2-7 :

66x (6 rows)

Info :

Fill the baby's body and leg joints well. If this area is not filled well, the legs and hips will look frail

Row 8 :

15x, a, 31x, a, 16x (64)

Row 9 :

14x, a, 31x, a, 15x (62)

Row 10 :

13x, a, 31x, a, 14x (60)

Row 11 :

12x, a, 31x, a, 13x (58)

Row 12 :

11x, a, 31x, a, 12x (56)

Row 13 :

10x, a, 31x, a, 11x (54)

Row 14 :

9x, a, 31x, a, 10x (52)

Row 15 :

8x, a, 31x, a, 9x (50)

Row 16 :

7x, a, 31x, a, 8x (48)

Row 17 :

6x, a, 31x, a, 7x (46)

Row 18 :

5x, a, 31x, a, 6x (44)

Row 19 :

4x, a, 31x, a, 5x (42)

Row 20 :

3x, a, 31x, a, 4x, shorts over, continue with skin color (40)

Info :

For a good view of the hips and hips, push the fiber towards the hips. Be careful not to leave any unfilled spaces

Rows 21-41 :

40x (21 rows)

Info :

At this time, arm joining will be started. Align the ends of the arms to face the body. The remaining thread at the end of the arms should remain under the arm. If there is a slip due to hand difference, align the arms according to yourself, arrange the loop of the round head accordingly and continue knitting according to the recipe

Row 42 :

12x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 17x, sinking arm and body together 3x, 5x (40)

Row 43 :

12x,9x on arm, 17x, 9x on arm, 5x (52)

Row 44 :

10x, a, 9x, a, 13x, a, 9x, a, 3x (48)

Row 45 :

10x, a, 7x, a, 13x, a, 7x, a, 3x (44)

Row 46 :

9x, a, 2x, m, 2x, a, 11x, a, 2x, m, 2x, a, 2x (36)

Row 47 :

7x, a, 2x, m, 2x, a, 7x, a, 2x, m, 2x, a (28)

Info :

Cut the wires to be put on the arms about 3 cm longer than the arm. Prepare by taping. The end of the wire should be bent in half and taped. Fill in without disturbing the form of the body. Place the wires on the arms

Row 48 :

a, 3x, a, 2x, m, 2x, a, 3x, a, 2x, m, 2x

Row 49 :

(3x, a)*4 (16)

Row 50-53 :

16x (4 rows)

Row 54 :

2x, sl st, body done. Let go of the head. Lightly pad the gut and shoulders

Sewing the Head to the Body :

Fold the wire you cut about 35 cm long and tape the ends. Putting half on the body and half on the head; Sew head and body together

— HAIR TRANSPLANT :

Hair Transplantation Technique :

The hair rope is wrapped in a book so that the length of a hair strand is around 50 cm and the hair is prepared (When the hair is folded, it will be around 25 cm). The hair is transplanted with the technique shown in the photos. Double layers of rope will be used in hair transplantation

Facial Hair Transplantation :

The hair on the forehead will be planted eight rows above the eyebrow. Find the midpoint on the forehead, aligned with the nose. From the middle point, draw the forehead line with a flying pen by counting 6 frequent needles to the right and left. Plant 11-12 strands of hair on the forehead. Align the sides of the face from under the eyes; nine on the right between the eye and the hair; hair is planted on the left side, leaving ten frequent needles in between. Straight planting is done in vertical lines up to the highest point of the eyebrow. Afterwards, the hair is attached by sliding towards the forehead like a ladder. 10 hair transplants were performed on the vertical lines on the side of the face. 8 hair strands were attached by scrolling

Hair Transplant on the Nape :

Create the nape line by drawing straight on the back of the head. Beginning from the right of the head, enter the line and exit from the upper row to perform the hair transplantation

Planting of the Midline :

When the hair is divided and tied in the middle, double-sided hair will be planted from the forehead to the nape in order to maintain the image. Take the middle line from the middle to the magic ring; Draw straight from the magic ring to the neck. The point to be considered in this part is that when planting hair on both sides, it is done by sinking it through the same hole. Create the midline by planting the left side first, then the right side

Hair Transplantation to the Empty Parts :

look for a frequent needle sow by skipping rows. Plant more frequently, skipping two rows at the top. At the end of the planting, comb the hair with your hands and cut the trim so that they are all the same length. Lightly color the cheeks, under the eyebrows, above the nose and knees with dry crayons

— T-SHIRT :

Info :

Start with the white rope

Row 1 :

40ch, starting chain 2 5x, v, 8hdcv, v, 9x, v, 8hdcv, v, 5x, back. It means that an increase will be made by making a handrail with the hdcv in the 1st row

Row 2 :

1ch, 59x, back

Row 3 :

1ch, 6x, v, 16hdc, v, 11x, v, 16hdc, v, 6x, back

Row 4 :

1ch, 63x, back

Row 5 :

1ch, 7x, v, 5hdc, 3hdca, 5hdc, v, 13x, v, 5hdc, 3hdca, 5hdc, v,7x,back

Row 6 :

1ch, 9x, 3ch and skip 13hdc, 17x, 3ch and skip 13hdc, 9x, reverse

Row 7 :

1ch, 3x, v, 5x, a multiple of 3 chains 3x, 17x, a multiple of 3 chains 3x, 5x v, 3x, back (41). Make 3x using a multiple of 3 chains. Frequent needle for the sleeve end of the other kata t-shirt will be passed

Row 8 :

1ch, 41x, back

Row 9 :

1ch, 4x, v, 31x, v, 4x go back (43)

Rows 10-14 :

1ch, 43x, back (5 rows)

Row 15 :

1ch, 5x, v, 31x, v, 5x, back (45)

Rows 16-22 :

1ch, 45x, back (7 rows)

Row 23 :

1ch, 45x, turning the side of the shirt without breaking the thread to make the buttonholes of the shirt; 1ch, 6x, 7ch (1st buttonhole), 7x, 7ch (2nd buttonhole), 7x, 7ch (3rd buttonhole), 2x, sl st, break the thread

Collar :

Attach the rope to the other side of the tshirt from the collar and make 22x, sl st, break the rope. If the t-shirt is narrow when it is dressed, a few rows can be knitted on 22x

Right Sleeve :

When you turn the back of the t-shirt, start with the arm on the right. Attach the string to the junction of the body and arm parting on the back of the t-shirt. 1ch, to the junction of the arm and body x, 13x on the arm, x where the arm and body meet, 3x on the chain we pulled while knitting the body, sl st, break the thread (18)

Left Sleeve :

Attach the string to the junction of the body and arm parting on the back of the t-shirt. 1ch, x to the junction of the arm and the body, 3x to the chain we pulled while knitting the body of the dress, x to the junction of the arm and body, 13x to the arm, sl st, break the thread (18)

Info :

The t-shirt is finished, sew the buttons

— SALOPET (OVERALLS) :

Info :

Start with the purple yarn. In the salopette, the reverse direction of the knitting will be used

Row 1 :

Pull 59ch, do 52x starting from 8ch, break the rope. The 7ch left at the beginning of the chain will be buttonhole. In order for the baby to be dressed comfortably, Up to the 16th row, the rope will be cut off and reattached to the beginning of the row. Walk the remaining threads that we cut at the beginning and end of the row in knitting. Knit these frequent needles more tightly so that the frequent needles that you are guiding the yarns do not look wider

Row 2 :

Attach the thread to the first loop (Insert the buttonhole side) 1ch, 52x, break the thread

Row 3 :

Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 52x, break the string

Row 4 :

Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, x, v, 10x, v, 26x, v, 10x, v, x break the thread (56)

Row 5-6 :

Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 56x, break the string (2 rows)

Row 7 :

Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 13x, v, 28x, v, 13x break the thread (58)

Row 8 :

Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 58x, break the string

Row 9 :

Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, x, v, 54x, v, x break the thread (60)

Row 10 :

Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 60x, break the thread

Row 11 :

Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 14x, v, 30x, v, 14x, break the thread (62)

Row 12 :

Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 62x, break the thread

Row 13 :

Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, x, v, 58x, v, x break the thread (64)

Row 14 :

Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, 15x, v, 32x, v, 15x, break the thread (66)

Row 15 :

Attach the yarn to the first loop. 1ch, x, v, 62x, v, x break the thread (68)

Row 16 :

Attach the yarn to the first loop. Merge the row by doing 1ch, 68x, sl st. After this row, the rope will be continued without breaking. Due to the hand difference in knitting, if the baby's size is different, even if you try the salopette, the recipe can be continued by breaking a few more rows of yarn. Since the reverse direction of the knitting will be used, the frequent needles will be knitted in reverse. Rows will be knitted counterclockwise by inserting the crochet from the inside of the knitting

Row 17 :

1ch, 68x, sl st

Row 18 :

1ch, 17x, v, 33x, v, 16x, sl st (70)

Rows 19-21 :

1ch, 70x, sl st (3 rows)

Row 22 :

1ch, 18x, v, 34x, v, 16x,sl st (72)

Rows 23-25 :

1ch, 72x, sl st (3 rows)

Row 26 :

1ch, 19x, v, 36x, v, 15x, sl st (74)

Row 27-30 :

1ch, 74x, sl st (4 rows)

Info :

The ruffle of the salopette will be made

Row 31 :

1ch, flodan 74v, sl st (148)

Rows 32-33 :

1ch, 148x, sl st, break thread (2 rows). The skirt part of the salolet is finished. Skirt length can be changed upon request

Front Part :

Start counting from the non buttonhole side of the salopette and insert the thread into the 21st frequent needle

Rows 1-8 :

1ch, 14x, go back (8 rows)

Row 9 :

1ch, skip a single crochet 11x, skip a single crochet and sl st, break the thread

Hangers :

Attach the thread to the first loop of the buttonhole side of the salopette; Pull 1 ch and start from the first loop on the side, pull 4 sl st, 33 ch (hanger). From the 2nd chain, make 32hdc on the hanger and knit into the next loop with sl st. Salopete 12 sl st, next to the front piece 8x, in front of the front piece v, 10x, v, next to the front piece 8x, salope 13 sl st, 33ch (hanger), 2. From the chain, 32hdc, sl st, sew into the next loop, make 6sl st. Turning to the side, do 15x until the middle parting, because the edge of the salopette made by breaking the rope is not regular, close it by making a sl st. Since the other edge is uniform, frequent needles are not used. The length of the straps can be adjusted according to the baby and the number of chains can be changed. Sew so that the ends of the straps are under the corners of the front piece

Pockets :

Row 1: Pull 9ch, 8x starting from chain 2, back. Row 2-3: 1ch, 8x, back (2 rows). Row 4: 1ch, 1x skip, 7x, go back. Row 5: 1ch, 7x, go back. Row 6: 1ch, 1x skip, 6x back. Row 7: 1ch, 6x, back. Row 8: 1ch, skip 1x, 5x, done. Leave thread for sewing. Knit the other pocket

Info :

Sew the front buttons of the salopette and the button on the back. Starting to count the pockets from the flo at the hem, sew 7 rows on top of each other, leaving 11 single needles. Dry crayon on front piece, pocket and pocket tops. Wear it by rubbing it with your finger and lightly touching it

— SHOE :

Info :

Start with the white rope

Row 1 :

Take 8ch. From 2ch on the same stitch 2hdc, 5hdc, in the same stitch 5hdc, 5hdc, in the same stitch 3hdc, sl st (20hdc)

Row 2 :

1ch, 2hdcv, 5hdc, 5hdcv, 5hdc, 3hdcv, sl st (30hdc)

Row 3 :

1ch, (hdc,hdcv)*2, 5hdc, (hdc,hdcv)*5, 5hdc, (hdc,hdcv)*3, sl st (40hdc)

Row 4 :

1ch, after making 40 sl sts from the block, sink to the beginning of the row with sl st

Row 5 :

2ch, 4th row sl st loops made 40DC, sl st, break the thread

Row 6 :

Attach the green thread to the first block of the sl st made in the 4th row. 2ch, 40DC, sl st

Row 7 :

1ch, make 40x, s by sinking the blo of the white thread and the green thread together

Row 8 :

1ch, 12x, 4hdc, hdca, 2hdc, hdca, 2hdc, hdca, 4hdc, 10x, sl st (37)

Row 9 :

1ch, 12x, hdc, 2hdca, hdc, 2hdca, hdc, 2hdca, hdc, 9x, sl st (31)

Row 10 :

1ch, 11x, a, 8x, a, 8x, sl st (29)

Row 11 :

1ch, 9x, hdc, 6hdca, hdc, 6x, sl st (23)

Row 12 :

1ch, 12x, ''same loop hdc, DC'', 2DCv, ''same loop DC, hdc'', 7x, sl st. The tongue part of the shoe is made. The tongue should come in the middle of the shoe. If slips occur due to hand difference, tongue Scroll the section accordingly and continue with the tariff

Row 13 :

After making 1ch, 27sl st, sink into the beginning of the row with sl st, break the rope

Row 14 :

Attach the white thread to the first flo loop of the 3rd row of the sole and knit 40 sl st

Info :

The shoe is finished, knit the other shoe. Attach the laces as in the picture

— SOCKS :

Info :

Start with the Alize diva white thread. Knit 24 loops on the bottle

Rows 1-11 :

Knit 24 stitches straight (11 rows)

Row 12 :

Knit 2 knits, 1 knit, 20 knits, 1 raises, 2 knits

Rows 13-21 :

Knit 26 stitches straight (9 rows)

Row 22 :

Finish the knit by cutting 26 stitches

Info :

Sew the cone. When dressed on the leg, the narrow part will be downwards

— CAT HAT :

Info :

Start with lilac yarn. Knit with 2.20mm crochet. The hat will be spiral knit

Row 1 :

6x into the magic ring (6)

Row 2 :

6v (12)

Row 3 :

(x, v)*6 (18)

Row 4 :

(2x,v)*6 (24)

Row 5 :

(3x,v)*6 (30)

Row 6 :

(4x,v)*6 (36)

Row 7 :

(5x,v)*6 (42)

Row 8 :

(6x,v)*6 (48)

Info :

When knitting the hat, mark the heads of the rows with the marker

Row 9 :

(7x,v)*6 (54)

Row 10 :

(8x,v)*6 (60)

Row 11 :

(9x,v)*6 (66)

Row 12 :

(10x,v)*6 (72)

Row 13 :

(11x,v)*6 (78)

Row 14 :

(12x,v)*6 (84)

Rows 15-25 :

84x (11 rows)

Row 26 :

84x, making sl stfinish and break the thread

Brim of the Hat :

Starting to count from the loop next to the sl st loop made at the end of the hat, attach the thread to the blo of the 37th loop

Row 1 :

1ch, 2v from blo, 7x, 2v, back (15)

Row 2 :

1ch, v, 13x, v, back (17)

Row 3 :

1ch, 3v, x, v, 7x, v, x, 3v, back (25)

Row 4 :

1ch, v, 23x, v, back (27)

Row 5 :

1ch, v, 4x, v, 15x, v, 4x, v, back (31)

Row 6 :

1ch, v, 29x, v, back (33)

Row 7 :

1ch, v, 4x, v, x, v, 3x, v, 9x, v, 3x, v, x, v, 4x, v (41)

Row 8 :

1ch, v, 39x, v, back (43)

Row 9 :

1ch, v, 9x, v, 21x, v, 9x, v, back (47)

Row 10 :

1ch, v, 45x, v, back (49)

Row 11 :

1ch, 49x, sl st, break thread

Info :

Sew the sides of the trench in such a way that it corresponds to 11 frequent crochets by taking a block loop from the hat and a loop from the trench. Attach the floss to the sl st loop on the back of the hat. Finish by making 25 sl sts over the hat, 47 sl sts over the visor, and 25 sl sts over the hat, starting from the side loop to the brim

Ear Row 1 :

Do 6x into sh (6)

Ear Row 2 :

6v (12)

Ear Row 3 :

(3x,v)*3 (15)

Ear Row 4 :

(4x,v)*3 (18)

Ear Row 5 :

18x

Ear Row 6 :

(5x, v)*3 (21)

Info :

Fold the ear in half and take it from opposing frequent needles and assemble it by making 11x. Knit the other ear in the same way. Sew diagonally, starting from the top of the 7th row, counting the lower parts of the ears from the sides of the trench to the top. It is sewn so that the distance from one end of the ear to the other is 8 rows

Embroidery of the Hat :

Determine the cat's nose in the middle of the hat by counting 4 rows above the visor. Create the sides of the nose triangle by attaching a double layer of domino thread to the needle. Fill in the middle part. Ensure the fullness of the nose by performing the same operations once again. Finally, embroider the nose 2-3 times on the flat edge of the triangle. Embroider the mustache with a single layer of thread

— BAG :

Row 1 :

8x into the magic ring (8)

Row 2 :

8v (16)

Row 3 :

(x, v)*8 (24)

Row 4 :

x,v,(2x,v)*7,x (32)

Row 5 :

31x, sl st (32)

Info :

The side of the bag will be done. While removing the edge loops, crochet from the reverse side of the knitting into the frequent needle. We insert. We go to the reverse side of the knitting by inserting the needle through the frequent needle next to it. We take the loop with our crochet and get out of the hole where we inserted the crochet, and we remove the loops formed in the crochet once. We continue by entering the next sinking from the point where we left in the first single needle

Row 7 :

1ch, Do 32x with the technique described above, sl st. Knit the other side in the same way

Info :

Ears will be made on the front of the bag

Bag Ear Row 1 :

1ch, 4x from blo, back

Bag Ear Row 2 :

1ch, skip 1x 3x, go back

Bag Ear Row 3 :

1ch, skip 1x 2x, go back

Bag Ear Row 4 :

1ch, 1x skip x, done, break the string

2nd Ear :

Attach the thread to the block of the 7th loop, counting from the side of the first ear. Knit the second ear in the same way as the first ear. There should be 6 frequent needles between the two ears

Info :

After the ears are finished, pull them into the first block loop of the row and start from the side loop until the ear. 3x to the side of the ear, 3x to the tip of the ear, 6 s between the ears to the side of the ear 3x, 3x to the tip, 10 sl st, zn the end of the row by shifting the glaze. Processing stage on the hat on the front of the bag. With a needle that connects the two sides, start the faces right and sew up to the blos of the loops

Handle of the Bag :

Pull 61ch, start from 2 chains and do 60x. To sew the handle to the bag, leave a long rope and break it off. Sew to the bag so that the sleeve ends are inside the bag

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the completed head to the body by inserting the wire-reinforced neck portion (rows 50-53) into the head opening. Sew securely around the entire circumference using matching thread.
  • Position wire armatures inside the arms (about 3cm longer than arm length) with taped ends for safety. Ensure wires extend into shoulders for posability.
  • Join the arms to the body at rows 42-43, aligning them to face forward with any remaining threads hidden underneath. Sew through both arm and body stitches for a secure attachment.
  • Apply dry crayon makeup to cheeks, under eyebrows, above nose, and on knees by lightly rubbing with your finger for a natural blush effect.
  • Style the hair by combing through with hands and trimming to desired length. Part in the middle if desired, following the planted midline.
  • Dress the doll in the t-shirt first, then add the overalls. Attach buttons to the back of the t-shirt and front and back of overalls as indicated.
  • Put on socks first, then shoes. Thread laces through shoes and tie securely. Place the cat hat on the head and position the small bag as desired.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently throughout head construction to keep accurate row counts for proper facial feature placement
  • 💡Stuff the doll every 5-6 rows without exception - this is critical for achieving realistic body proportions and preventing lumps
  • 💡Pay special attention to leg filling - left leg calf should protrude to the right side, right leg calf to the left side when toes face you
  • 💡When embroidering eyes, follow the YouTube video links provided for best results - the technique requires practice and patience
  • 💡Wire ends must always be bent, doubled over, and taped securely to prevent sharp points from poking through the fabric
  • 💡The doll's final height of 35cm depends on tight, even tension and proper filling - loose stitches or inadequate stuffing will increase height and make clothes too short
  • 💡Always test fit clothing pieces on the doll before finalizing - hand tension differences may require slight pattern adjustments

This exquisite Mimosa Baby doll pattern represents the pinnacle of amigurumi artistry, combining advanced embroidery techniques with detailed construction to create a truly lifelike companion. From the realistic embroidered eyes complete with pupils, irises, and eyelashes, to the carefully shaped legs with defined calves and knees, every element has been thoughtfully designed. The complete wardrobe of coordinating pieces adds endless play and display possibilities. This pattern challenges you to master new techniques while creating an heirloom-quality piece that will be treasured for generations. 🧶 Happy crocheting! 🧵✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What makes the eye embroidery technique in this pattern unique?

The eye embroidery uses a specialized 'tour' technique with two stages - first creating basting stitches around the designated areas, then completing the round by passing through all stitches from outside to inside. The pattern includes detailed instructions for creating realistic pupils, dual-colored irises (dark and light blue), white eye areas, eyelashes, and even eye shimmer for a truly lifelike appearance. YouTube video links are provided for visual guidance.

Why do the left and right legs have different patterns?

The legs are actually knitted with the same pattern until row 26, but the difference comes from filling technique. The left leg's calf should protrude to the RIGHT side when toes face you, while the right leg's calf protrudes to the LEFT. This creates realistic leg shape and proper stance. The pattern provides detailed filling instructions with visual references to achieve the correct anatomy.

Can I make this doll without using wire armature?

While you can make the doll without wire, the wire armature (70cm of 2.5mm electrical wire) is highly recommended for the neck and arms as it allows for posability and helps the doll maintain shape. If omitting wire, be sure to stuff these areas very firmly. Always tape and double over wire ends for safety, especially if the doll is intended for children.

How do I prevent the doll from being too tall or too short?

The doll's final 35cm height depends on three critical factors: maintaining tight, even tension throughout; filling properly every 5-6 rows; and stuffing densely without over-stuffing. Loose stitches or inadequate filling will cause the doll to become taller and make the clothing too short. Always stuff to the recommended firmness, pushing fiber toward specific areas (like hips) as instructed.

What's the best way to achieve the realistic hair look?

The pattern uses a transplantation technique with double-layer rope, creating hair strands about 50cm long (25cm when folded). Hair is strategically planted in sections: facial framing (11-12 strands on forehead, 10 strands on vertical face lines, 8 scrolling strands), a center part line from forehead to nape, and filler hair on the scalp by skipping rows. The key is following the specific placement instructions and trimming all strands to uniform length after planting.

Do I need to make all the clothing items?

No, you can choose which clothing items to make based on your preference. The pattern includes a t-shirt with buttons, purple overalls with pockets and adjustable straps, shoes with laces, socks, a cat-eared hat, and a small bag. Each piece is worked separately, so you can mix and match or create just the basic outfit. The shorts are built into the body construction, but other items are optional additions.