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Margaret Textured Crochet Square Pattern

Margaret Textured Crochet Square Pattern
3.9★Rating
3-5 HoursTime Needed
3.1KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Quick Craft

Fits nicely into a free afternoon — 2 to 5 hours of focused, enjoyable crocheting.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Margaret Textured Crochet Square Pattern

Margaret Textured Crochet Square Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This textured block is perfect for making heirloom blankets, elegant throw pillows, or stunning tote bags that will instantly become treasured family keepsakes.

Why You'll Love This Margaret Textured Crochet Square Pattern

I absolutely adore how this pattern plays with dimension! Working stitches into the third loops and behind previous rounds creates this incredible 3D effect that you just have to touch. It kept me completely hooked from the very first round, and seeing the colors interact across the different layers was pure joy.

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Switch Things Up

When I first saw the Margaret Square, I was completely captivated by how the layers of texture seem to bloom right off the fabric. Designing or working through a pattern like this always reminds me of why I fell in love with crochet in the first place—it is pure magic how a simple strand of yarn can transform into such an intricate, dimensional masterpiece.

For my version, I decided to play around with a vintage-inspired palette. I used a soft cream for the center flower to really make those petals pop, and then transitioned into deep forest greens and muted rust tones for the outer rounds. The way the post stitches catch the light is absolutely stunning!

If you are looking to make a full blanket, I highly recommend mixing up the color placements across different squares. It keeps the project incredibly engaging because every single square feels like a brand-new adventure. Just be sure to block your finished squares so they join together seamlessly!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ In Round 3, it is easy to accidentally work into the stitches of Round 2 instead of working behind them into the chain spaces of Round 1.✗ For Round 6 and other textured rounds, make sure you are working into both the back loop and the third loop (3LP) to keep the fabric stable and prevent gaps.✗ When working the puff stitches in Round 10, ensure your loops are pulled up loosely so they match the height of the surrounding double treble crochet stitches.✗ During Round 11, skipping the wrong stitches around the puff groups can throw off your stitch counts for the rest of the side, so count carefully.

Margaret Textured Crochet Square Pattern

Welcome to your next favorite crochet project! The Margaret Square is an absolute dream for anyone who loves rich textures, intricate post stitches, and beautiful depth. Named in honor of a special person who touched my crafting journey, this square is like a love letter to the art of crochet. You will love how the layers build upon each other to create a gorgeous, blooming floral center that transitions beautifully into a classic square shape. Grab your favorite hook and let us make something truly special together!

Intermediate 3-5 Hours

Materials Needed for Margaret Textured Crochet Square Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Medium weight cotton yarn in Color A (soft yellow or warm orange)
  • 02
    Medium weight cotton yarn in Color B (deep turquoise or variegated print)
  • 03
    Medium weight cotton yarn in Color C (bright turquoise or stonewash blue)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook for an 11-inch square
  • 02
    5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook for a 12-inch square
  • 03
    Stitch markers to keep track of corners and rounds
  • 04
    Darning needle for weaving in ends and seamless joins
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Blocking mats and T-pins for final shaping

Progress Tracker

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— 1. Margaret Square :

Round 1 :

Form a magic circle to begin. Work a ch 5, which represents your first dc and a ch 2 space. Inside the ring, repeat [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 2] 7 times. Complete the round with 1 dc and ch 1, then finish with an invisible join into the 4th chain of your starting chain before fastening off. (16 dc, 8 ch-1 sp, 8 ch-2 sp)

Round 2 :

Attach your yarn in any ch 2 space. Work *(3 dc) directly into the ch 2 space, make 1 FPdc around the next dc, ch 1, skip the ch 1 space, and work 1 FPdc around the following dc*. Repeat this entire sequence from * to * 7 more times. Secure with an invisible join to the second dc of the round, then fasten off. (24 dc, 16 FPdc, 8 ch-1 sp)

Round 3 :

Start in any ch 1 space from Round 1. Fold your current work forward so you can work behind Round 2. Work *1 dc in that ch 1 space of Round 1, ch 3, then skip to the next ch 1 space of Round 1*. Repeat this sequence from * to * 7 more times. Secure with an invisible join to the first chain of the round and fasten off. (8 dc, 8 ch-3 sp)

Round 4 :

Join your yarn in any ch 3 space. Work *(3 dc) in the ch 3 space, ch 1, skip the next stitch, and work 1 dc in the following ch 3 space*. Repeat this pattern from * to * 7 more times. Complete the round with an invisible join to the second dc, then fasten off. (32 dc, 8 ch-1 sp)

Round 5 :

Begin in the first dc after any ch 1 space. Work *1 sc in each of the next 4 stitches, then work 1 tr down into the ch 1 space of Round 2, skipping the ch 1 space of the current round*. Repeat this sequence from * to * 7 more times. Secure with an invisible join to the second sc of the round, then fasten off. (32 sc, 8 tr)

Round 6 :

Join your yarn in the second sc of any 4-stitch group. Work *1 BLdc in each of the next 3 stitches, then work (1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc) into both the tr and the 3LP of that stitch, followed by 1 BLdc in the next stitch*. Repeat this sequence from * to * 7 more times. Secure with an invisible join to the second dc of the round and fasten off. (16 dc, 32 BLdc, 8 ch-3 sp)

Round 7 :

Start in any ch 3 space. Work *(6 tr) into the ch 3 space, ch 1, skip to the next ch 3 space, and work 1 tr in the next ch 3 space*. Repeat this pattern from * to * 7 more times. Secure with an invisible join to the second tr of the round, then fasten off. (56 tr, 8 ch-1 sp)

Round 8 :

Join your yarn in the second tr of any 7-stitch group. Repeat the following sequence: *[(2 dc) in the BL and 3LP of the next tr; 1 dc in the BL and 3LP of the next tr] 3 times, then ch 1, skip the ch 1 space, and work 1 dc in the BL and 3LP of the next tr*. Repeat from * to * 7 more times. Secure with an invisible join to the second dc and fasten off. (80 BLdc, 8 ch-1 sp)

Round 9 :

Start in the second BLdc after any ch 1 space. Work *1 dc in both the BL and 3LP of each of the next 9 stitches. Working in front of Round 8, work (1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr) into the ch 1 space of Round 7, then skip the ch 1 space of Round 8, and work 1 dc in both the BL and 3LP of the next dc*. Repeat from * to * 7 more times. Secure with an invisible join to the second dc and fasten off. (80 BLdc, 16 tr, 8 ch-2 sp)

Round 10 :

Attach yarn in any ch 2 space. Work *(2 dtr, ch 2, 2 dtr) in the ch 2 space, skip the next stitch, then work 1 BPtr around each of the next 2 stitches, 1 BPdc around each of the next 2 stitches, and 1 BPhdc around each of the next 6 stitches. Ch 1, skip 1 stitch, then work ([1 puff, ch 1] 2 times, and 1 puff) all into the next ch 2 space. Ch 1, skip 1 stitch, work 1 BPhdc around each of the next 6 stitches, 1 BPdc around each of the next 2 stitches, and 1 BPtr around each of the next 2 stitches, then skip the last stitch*. Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Secure with an invisible join to the second dtr, then fasten off. (48 BPhdc, 16 BPdc, 16 BPtr, 16 dtr, 12 puff, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

Round 11 :

Begin in any ch 2 corner space. Work *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner space, then work 1 dc in the 3LP of each of the next 5 stitches, 1 hdc in the 3LP of each of the next 4 stitches, and 1 sc in the 3LP of each of the next 2 stitches. Ch 1, skip the next stitch and the ch 1 space, then work [(1 FPdc, ch 1) 2 times around the puff stitch] 3 times. Skip the next ch 1 space and the next stitch, then work 1 sc in the 3LP of each of the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc in the 3LP of each of the next 4 stitches, and 1 dc in the 3LP of each of the next 5 stitches*. Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Secure with an invisible join to the second dc, then fasten off. (16 sc, 32 hdc, 24 FPdc, 56 dc, 28 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

Round 12 :

Start in any ch 2 corner space. Work *(2 tr, ch 2, 3 tr) in the corner space, ch 1, skip 4 stitches, then work 1 dc in each of the next 9 stitches. Repeat [1 FPhdc around the next (FPdc, ch 1, FPdc) group] 3 times. Work 1 dc in each of the next 9 stitches, ch 1, skip 4 stitches, then work 1 tr in the corner space*. Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Secure with an invisible join to the second tr of the round, then fasten off. (12 FPhdc, 72 dc, 24 tr, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

Round 13 :

Join yarn in any ch 2 corner space. Work *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner space, then work 1 BPdc around each of the next 3 stitches, 1 dc in the next ch 1 space, 1 BPdc around each of the next 9 stitches, 1 BPhdc around each of the next 3 stitches, 1 BPdc around each of the next 9 stitches, 1 dc in the next ch 1 space, and 1 BPdc around each of the next 3 stitches*. Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Secure with an invisible join to the second dc of the round, then fasten off. (24 dc, 96 BPdc, 12 BPhdc, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

Round 14 :

Attach yarn in any ch 2 corner space. Work *(1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in the corner space, then work 1 sc in each of the next 33 stitches*. Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Secure with an invisible join to the first single crochet of the round, then fasten off. (140 sc, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

Round 15 :

Start in any ch 2 corner space. Work *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner space, then work 1 BLdc in each of the next 35 stitches*. Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Secure with an invisible join to the second dc, then fasten off. (16 dc, 140 BLdc, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in all remaining yarn tails securely on the back of the square using your darning needle.
  • Gently soak your finished square in lukewarm water with a mild wool wash for about 15 minutes.
  • Carefully squeeze out the excess water by rolling the square inside a clean, dry towel without wringing it.
  • Pin the damp square onto your blocking mats using rustproof T-pins, stretching it gently to your desired dimensions (11 or 12 inches).
  • Allow the square to air dry completely before removing the pins to ensure it holds its beautiful shape and defined stitch details.

Important Notes

  • 💡Unless specified otherwise, every single round starts with a standing stitch and finishes with an invisible join.
  • 💡Some rounds may begin on a different stitch than the first of a group to prevent the round from ending awkwardly on a chain space.
  • 💡Always pay close attention to whether a stitch is worked into the back loop (BL), the third loop (3LP), or both to achieve the intended 3D texture.
  • 💡Steam blocking is highly recommended for acrylic yarns, but take extra care not to touch the iron directly to the fibers.

I hope you have the absolute best time bringing this beautiful square to life! There is something so incredibly soothing about watching these intricate layers unfold stitch by stitch. Whether you turn your finished squares into a cozy heirloom blanket, a gorgeous tote bag, or a statement pillow, I know it is going to turn out absolutely stunning. Do not forget to share your finished masterpieces with our wonderful crafting community—we all love to see your unique color choices! Happy crocheting, my lovely friends! 🧶✨

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FAQs

Can I use acrylic yarn instead of cotton for this square?

Yes, you absolutely can! Acrylic yarn works beautifully, but keep in mind that cotton provides crisper stitch definition for the intricate post stitches, and acrylic will require extra care during steam blocking.

My square is curling quite a bit at Round 8. Did I do something wrong?

Don't worry, a little bit of curling is completely normal because of the dense post stitches and loop manipulations. Once you complete the final rounds and block your square, it will lay perfectly flat.

How do I find the third loop (3LP) on half double and double crochets?

The third loop is located directly behind and slightly below the standard back loop. Tilting your work slightly forward will help you spot this loop clearly.

Can I join multiple Margaret Squares to make a large afghan?

Absolutely! The flat single crochet border on Round 14 and the back loop double crochet on Round 15 make it incredibly easy to join multiple squares using a whipstitch or a slip stitch join.