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Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern

Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern
4.1★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
2.3K Made This
✂️

Advanced Level

Designed for experienced knitters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive knitting.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern

This little teddy bear pattern features advanced jointing techniques using cotter pins and attachment discs, creating a fully articulated head that can turn and tilt. The pattern includes detailed instructions for needle sculpting the face to create expressive, lifelike features. Wire-reinforced arms provide posability, while carefully constructed legs with plastic insoles ensure your bear stands straight and proud.

Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The finishing touches include embroidered nose details, live eye highlights using white thread, and perfectly positioned ears that give this bear its classic, timeless appeal.

Why You'll Love This Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it teaches you professional toy-making techniques that elevate your amigurumi skills to the next level! The jointed head construction might seem intimidating at first, but once you master it, you'll feel like a true artisan. I'm especially fond of the needle sculpting process—watching the bear's face come to life as you shape the eye sockets and define the muzzle is incredibly rewarding. The combination of technical skill and creative expression makes every bear unique, and knowing your creation can stand independently adds such a satisfying finishing touch!

Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love experimenting with different color combinations for this little teddy bear! While the classic beige is timeless and traditional, I've created bears in soft pastels like baby pink and lavender that look absolutely dreamy in nurseries. For a more modern twist, I've tried dusty blue and charcoal gray combinations that give the bear a contemporary Scandinavian aesthetic.

One of my favorite modifications is adding a tiny bow tie or ribbon around the neck—it takes just a few minutes but adds so much personality! I've also experimented with embroidering different nose shapes; a triangular nose gives a more realistic bear look, while a simple oval creates a softer, more cartoonish appearance.

For gift-giving, I sometimes create themed bears by adding small crocheted accessories like a tiny scarf, a miniature hat, or even a little crocheted heart that the bear can hold. These personalized touches make each bear truly one-of-a-kind.

I've found that using variegated or ombre yarn creates a beautiful, subtly shifting color effect throughout the bear's body that's absolutely stunning. The needle sculpting technique also allows for different facial expressions—pulling the threads at slightly different angles can make your bear look happy, surprised, or even a bit mischievous!

Another variation I love is making the ears slightly larger or positioning them differently on the head. Lower, more sideways ears create a puppy-dog look, while higher, more forward-facing ears give a traditional teddy bear appearance. The beauty of this pattern is that once you master the basic construction, the creative possibilities are truly endless!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not tightening stitches enough when crocheting the head—this causes gaps around the jointed attachment disc and weakens the structure ✗ Forgetting to wrap wire ends with medical plaster before inserting into arms—exposed wire can pierce through fabric and cause damage ✗ Stuffing the upper three rounds of arms before attachment—this makes it nearly impossible to fold and attach arms properly to body ✗ Placing attachment disc at wrong position in head—disc must go between rounds 15-16 or head won't attach securely to body ✗ Not asking for help when fastening leg threads—one person must pull tightly while another presses body or legs won't attach firmly

Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern

Create an adorable little teddy bear with movable joints and charming details! This comprehensive pattern guides you through crafting a classic stuffed bear complete with jointed head and arms, embroidered facial features, and perfectly positioned ears. Using sport-weight yarn and a 2mm hook, you'll create a timeless companion featuring needle-sculpted eyes, an embroidered nose, and sturdy legs that allow your bear to stand independently. Perfect for gift-giving or adding to your handmade collection!

Advanced 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Little Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sport-weight yarn in beige color (YarnArt Jeans no.48 or no.87, 50g/160m) - 1 skein

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook no.2/2mm (Clover Amour)
  • 02
    Wire for arms 10cm/4 inches long (any type in winding)
  • 03
    Attachment disc D=25-20mm - 2 pieces (for head)
  • 04
    Cotter pin 25/2mm - 1 piece (for head)
  • 05
    Tapestry needle for sewing pieces
  • 06
    White thread for creating live eyes
  • 07
    Plastic safety eyes D=6mm - 2 pieces
  • 08
    Brown or black embroidery thread for nose (sewing thread 80/100)
  • 09
    Strong nylon or cotton thread for sewing paws
  • 10
    Plastic for insoles (from container lids or attachment disc material)
  • 11
    Stuffing material (fiberfill, small lumps)
  • 12
    Pliers
  • 13
    Medical plaster for wrapping wire ends

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Info :

Work with X-shaped stitches, very tight. If you crochet with V-shaped stitches, your teddy bear size will be much bigger.

MR :

6sc (6)

Round 1 :

inc*6 (12)

Round 2 :

(sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 3 :

sc into every st (18)

Round 4 :

(2sc, inc)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

sc into every st (24)

Round 6 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 7 :

inc*15, 5sc, dec*3, 4sc (42)

Round 8 :

(6sc, inc)*6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8sc, inc)*6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc)*6 (66)

Round 12-22 (11 rounds) :

sc into every st (66)

Info :

If you use plastic safety eyes, insert them between rounds 6 and 7, skipping 4 or 5 sts apart.

Round 23 :

(9sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 24 :

(8sc, dec)*6 (54)

Round 25 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 26 :

(6sc, dec)*6 (42)

Round 27 :

(5sc, dec)*6 (36)

Round 28 :

(4sc, dec)*6 (30)

Info :

Put the head aside for now.

— Arms (make 2) :

MR :

6sc (6)

Round 1 :

inc*6 (12)

Round 2 :

(2sc, inc)*4 (16)

Round 3-7 (5 rounds) :

sc into every st (16)

Round 8 :

(2sc, dec)*4 (12)

Round 9-27 (19 rounds) :

sc into every st (12)

Info :

You may insert the WIRE (any kind) into the arm. Do not forget to wrap the ends of the wire with medical plaster so it does not pierce the fabric.

Info :

Stuff the arms tightly. Do not stuff only the upper 3 rnds to attach them to the body later.

Info :

Fold the arm in half.

Closing :

Work the two folded edges of the arm together: dec*3 into both folded edges (stretch 1 loop out working into both folded edges without finishing the sc, you now have 2 loops on hook, then stretch 1 more loop from the next st - now 3 loops on hook, crochet the two incomplete sc together with one top and repeat 2 more times). You should have worked 3 sts. Break yarn.

Info :

Work the second arm the same way.

— Ears (make 2) :

MR :

6sc (6)

Round 1 :

inc*6 (12)

Round 2 :

(sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 3 :

sc into every st (18)

Round 4 :

(2sc, inc)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 6 :

sc into every st (18)

Info :

Cut off the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing the ears to the head. Work the second ear the same way.

— Body :

MR :

6sc (6)

Round 1 :

inc*6 (12)

Round 2 :

(sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 3 :

(2sc, inc)*6 (24)

Round 4 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Info :

If you have some plastic, you may make the attachment discs yourself. Put the circle you have now to the plastic, circle it and cut out two pieces (these will be required discs).

Round 5 :

BLO sc into every st (30)

Round 6 :

sc into every st (30)

Round 7 :

(4sc, inc)*6 (36)

Round 8 (ATTACH ARMS) :

15sc, 3sc together with sts of the first arm, 15sc, 3sc together with sts of the second arm (36)

Round 9 :

(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 10 :

sc into every st (42)

Round 11 :

(6sc, inc)*6 (48)

Round 12 :

sc into every st (48)

Round 13 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 14 :

sc into every st (54)

Round 15 :

(8sc, inc)*6 (60)

Round 16 :

sc into every st (60)

Round 17-30 (14 rounds) :

sc into every st (60)

Info :

Insert the attachment discs and the cotter pin into the head and attach it to the body. Put the attachment disc into the head (inside) between rounds 15 and 16 and insert a T-shaped cotter pin into it.

Round 29 :

(3sc, dec)*6 (24)

Round 30 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Info :

Stuff the head tight.

— Needle Sculpting for Eyes :

Info :

Do needle sculpting for the eyes between rnds 6 and 7, skipping 4 or 5 sts apart between them. Use the needle with the same thread used for crocheting the bear.

Technique :

At the end of the nose (between rnds 6 and 7 of the head), insert the needle and bring it out in the point of the first eye. Skip 1 st (towards the second eye) and insert the needle again. There turned out a small stitch. Bring it out in the point of the second eye, skip 1 sc st on the fabric and bring the needle out in the stitch on the nose, next to the point inserted the very first time. The eyes should be located 4 or 5 sts apart.

Info :

It's better if someone helps you. One person should press on the place of the eyes and slightly squeeze the nose (on the point with two yarn tails), the second person pulls the threads well and ties them tight together. Weave the left yarn ends into the head.

Info :

Sew or glue the eyes to the points where you've done the needle sculpting. If you use SAFETY eyes, do the needle sculpting the same way with sculpting stitches over the eyes. When you pull the yarn ends tight, the eyes should become drowned into the fabric.

— Attach Head to Body :

Info :

Pull the pin ends in the body out of the second disc, pressing them very tightly (they should create something like a flower). BEND THEM to DIFFERENT SIDES, round off the ends to the center.

— Embroider the Nose :

Info :

Use fine black thread and needle. Start inserting it through the hole in the head, leaving a long tail. Bring it out in the point where the nose will be located (between rnds 2 and 3 of the head) and embroider the nose with simple stitches back and forth.

Technique :

With the same strong fine black thread and needle, through the hole in the head, bring the needle out at the end of the nose center. Do a wide stitch over the 3 rows down, and bring it out back in the hole in the head. Next, do the small stitch at the bottom of the division line of the muzzle. Insert the needle into the hole in the head, bring it out in the end of the division line, stitch over 1 or 2 sc sts of the fabric and go back to the hole in the head. Tie the thread ends together very tightly, pulling on the nose with a finger so it is slightly flattened and the thread ends are tightly stretched.

— Embroider the Live Eyes :

Info :

Use white thread and needle. Insert the needle into the hole in the head, leaving a long tail out, and bring it out close to an eye. Skip half of the eye and bring the needle back into the hole in the head. Do the same for the second eye.

Eyebrows :

With fine black thread insert the needle through the hole in the head and make the first eyebrow. Skip 2 rows up from an eye, the width of an eyebrow is 2 or 3sc sts to the side. Bring the needle back into the hole in the head and tie the thread ends together. Eyebrows can be done anywhere you like or not done at all to your taste.

— Sew the Ears on the Head :

Info :

Fold ears in half. Pin them to the required position on the head. Sew them on along rows 14, 15 of the head, skip 18sc sts between the ears.

Technique :

First sew from the side of the muzzle (the first part of the ear). When sewing the first part of the ear, pick up the whole sc stitch on the ear and the sc stitch on teddy's head. Skip 1 row up on the head to sew the second part of the ear, not in the same place but in the next row. Now sew through the FRONT LOOPS ONLY of the sts on the ear. Bring the thread out into the hole on the head when the second ear is sewn. Fasten off the thread ends and tie them together.

— Close the Hole on the Head :

Round 31 :

(sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 32 :

6*dec (6)

Round 33 :

Using needle, close the hole, or you may decrease sts before the hole is closed. Break yarn and weave in the yarn tail.

— Body Finish :

Round 31 :

(8sc, dec)*6 (54)

Round 32 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 33 :

(6sc, dec)*6 (42)

Round 34 :

(5sc, dec)*6 (36)

Round 35 :

(4sc, dec)*6 (30)

Round 36 :

(3sc, dec)*6 (24)

Round 37 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Info :

Stuff the body tightly.

Round 38 :

(sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 39 :

dec*6 or more to close the hole. Break yarn, weave in the yarn tail.

— Legs (make 2) :

Info :

Chain 8, work into the 2nd st from the hook around the chain foundation. Do (slst, ch1) in the end of each row, but it's not obligatory. You may just continue crocheting in amigurumi rounds if this is more suitable for you.

Round 1 :

inc, 5sc, [5sc into one st], to the other side of the chain foundation 5sc, inc (18)

Round 2 :

inc, 6sc, inc*4, 6sc, inc (24)

Round 3 :

inc, 9sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 9sc, inc (28)

Round 4 :

(3sc, inc)*7 (35)

Round 5 :

sc into every st (35)

Round 6 :

(4sc, inc)*7 (42)

Info :

The sole is ready. Circle the sole on plastic and cut the insole out of the plastic piece. Use plastic from containers or any kind of firm material. Cut out 2 pcs.

Round 7-9 (3 rounds) :

sc into every st (42)

Round 10 :

(4sc, dec)*7 (35)

Round 11 :

sc into every st (35)

Round 12 :

(3sc, dec)*7 (28)

Info :

Insert the insole into the foot.

Round 13 :

10sc, dec*4, 10sc (24)

Round 14 :

9sc, dec*3, 9sc (21)

Round 15 :

8sc, dec*2, 9sc (19)

Round 16-26 (11 rounds) :

sc into every st (19)

Info :

Stuff the leg very tightly.

Round 27 :

Work decreases to close the hole. Break yarn, weave in the yarn tail. Work the second leg the same way.

— Attach Legs :

Info :

Use tight thread (100% cotton) four times folded. Insert the needle into the first leg (skipping 4 rnds on it from the top) in the central point (LEAVE A LONG TAIL OUT), bring yarn out on the other side of the leg.

Technique :

Go to the point back where we inserted the needle, skipping 1 or 2 sts apart. Go through the body sides between rnds 30 and 31 to the opposite side. Insert the needle into the second leg (skipping 4 rnds from the top) in the central point, bring yarn out on the other side of the leg, and go to the point back where we inserted the needle, skipping 1 or 2 sts apart. Go through the body sides to the opposite side into the same points we were doing it before. Fasten the threads tightly and tie them into a knot.

Info :

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO FASTEN THE THREADS TIGHTLY SO THAT THE LEGS ARE FIRMLY PRESSED AGAINST THE BODY. I'm fastening the threads not alone and asking for help of another person; one person pulls the threads carefully and ties them together, the second one slightly presses on the body. Weave in the yarn tails into the body.

Assembly Instructions

  • Insert attachment disc into head between rounds 15-16, then insert T-shaped cotter pin through the disc
  • Position arms at round 8 of body and crochet them together with body stitches as instructed
  • Attach head to body by pulling cotter pin ends through second disc in body, bend them to different sides and round off ends to center
  • Complete needle sculpting for eyes between rounds 6-7 of head, positioning eyes 4-5 stitches apart before attaching or inserting safety eyes
  • Embroider nose using fine black thread between rounds 2-3 of head with back-and-forth stitches, then create muzzle division line
  • Fold ears in half and sew them along rows 14-15 of head with 18 stitches between them, sewing first part through whole stitches and second part through front loops only
  • Thread legs using four-fold strong cotton thread, passing through body between rounds 30-31, ensuring legs are firmly pressed against body before tying off

Important Notes

  • 💡The size of attachment discs depends on the tightness of your crochet stitches and may differ from the proposed disc size
  • 💡Always wrap wire ends with medical plaster before inserting into arms to prevent the wire from piercing through the fabric
  • 💡Do not stuff the upper 3 rounds of arms before attaching them to the body, as this makes proper folding and attachment impossible
  • 💡Work with X-shaped stitches very tightly for the head; V-shaped stitches will result in a much bigger teddy bear
  • 💡Always ask for help when fastening leg threads—one person pulls threads while another presses the body for secure attachment
  • 💡Insert plastic insoles into feet before completing legs to ensure the teddy bear can stand independently and maintain its shape

This adorable Little Teddy Bear pattern brings professional toy-making techniques right to your fingertips! With jointed head construction, wire-reinforced posable arms, and detailed needle sculpting that creates an expressive face, this pattern teaches you how to craft a truly heirloom-quality companion. The combination of technical precision and creative finishing touches results in a timeless teddy bear that stands proud on its own two feet. Perfect for gifting or keeping as your own treasured handmade friend! 🧸🧶✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What's the difference between X-shaped and V-shaped stitches, and why does it matter?

X-shaped stitches are worked very tightly by inserting your hook directly under both loops in a crossed manner, creating a denser, smaller fabric. V-shaped stitches are the traditional method where you work under both loops normally. For this pattern, X-shaped stitches are recommended because they create a tighter, more professional finish. If you use V-shaped stitches, your teddy bear will be significantly larger than intended.

Can I skip the jointed head and just sew it on instead?

While you technically can sew the head directly to the body, you'll lose one of the most charming features of this pattern—the ability for the head to turn and tilt naturally. The jointed construction using cotter pins and attachment discs creates a professional, heirloom-quality toy. It's worth learning this technique as it elevates your amigurumi skills significantly.

What type of plastic should I use for the insoles and attachment discs?

The pattern recommends using plastic from container lids, which is ideal because it's firm yet easy to cut with scissors. You want something rigid enough to support the bear's weight but thin enough to fit inside the pieces comfortably. Yogurt container lids, coffee can lids, or similar food-grade plastic containers work perfectly.

How do I know if I'm doing the needle sculpting correctly?

Proper needle sculpting should create gentle indentations where the eyes sit, giving the face dimension and expression. The key is having someone help you—one person presses where the eyes will be while the other pulls the thread tight and ties it off. If done correctly, the eyes should appear slightly sunken into the fabric, and the nose should look slightly flattened when you pull the threads. Don't be afraid to pull firmly!

Why won't my teddy bear stand up on its own?

There are three common causes: (1) You didn't insert the plastic insoles into the feet, which provide essential stability; (2) The legs aren't stuffed firmly enough—they need to be very tightly packed; (3) The leg attachment threads aren't pulled tight enough, causing the legs to wobble. Make sure you use strong thread folded four times and have someone help you pull it extremely tight while pressing the body before tying off.

Can I use a different yarn weight for this pattern?

Yes, you can use any yarn weight, but your finished bear will be a different size than the pattern suggests. If you use heavier yarn with a larger hook, you'll get a bigger bear; lighter yarn and smaller hook will create a miniature version. Just make sure to adjust your attachment disc sizes accordingly—trace the circle after completing round 4 of the body to get the right size for your specific gauge.