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Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern
4.3★ Rating
15-20 Hours Time Needed
1.3K Made This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced knitters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

⏱️

Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

This giant Snorlax amigurumi pattern creates an impressive 26-inch tall Pokemon plushie that's perfect for cuddling or displaying in any fan's collection. The pattern uses Bernat Blanket yarn for a super soft, huggable texture that brings Snorlax's sleepy nature to life. With detailed instructions for every component including the signature belly patch, tiny claws, and peaceful expression, you'll craft a character that captures the beloved Pokemon's essence perfectly.

Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The finished Snorlax measures approximately 26 inches tall, 18.5 inches from feet to back, and 28 inches wide from arm to arm. This large-scale project requires about 5 pounds of stuffing and patience, but the result is an absolutely stunning companion piece.

Why You'll Love This Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it transforms a beloved Pokemon into a real-life cuddle buddy that's larger than most store-bought plushies! The satisfaction of watching Snorlax come together piece by piece is incredible, and using the super bulky yarn means your stitches work up relatively quickly despite the size. I'm always amazed at how the belly patch creates that authentic Snorlax look, and the attention to detail with the foot pads and tiny claws makes this project feel truly special. There's something magical about creating a character this large and seeing it take up space in your home, becoming an actual piece of functional art. The pattern's clear instructions make even complex assembly manageable, and I find the process meditative and rewarding. When you finish sewing on those little felt teeth and embroidering the peaceful expression, you'll feel an incredible sense of accomplishment!

Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love experimenting with this pattern by playing around with yarn colors to create shiny versus matte finishes - the Lapis gives such a beautiful glossy look while Lagoon provides that classic soft appearance! Sometimes I'll add extra personality by embroidering different facial expressions, making sleepy eyes or even a tiny smile to match Snorlax's various moods throughout the Pokemon series.

For gifting purposes, I've created mini accessories like a tiny Pokeball pillow or a Master Ball that sits perfectly in Snorlax's arms, which really elevates the presentation and shows that extra level of thoughtfulness. I've also tried adding a music box mechanism inside the body for babies, though this requires extra safety considerations and firmly securing the opening.

Color variations are endless - I've made pastel versions for nurseries, darker navy and gray combinations for more mature aesthetics, and even attempted a rainbow version that turned out surprisingly cohesive! The belly patch offers great opportunities for personalization too; I've embroidered names, added appliqué designs, or used patterned fabric backing for a unique touch that makes each Snorlax truly one-of-a-kind.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not stuffing firmly enough can result in a floppy Snorlax that doesn't hold its shape properly over time. ✗ Skipping stitch markers during continuous rounds often leads to losing your place and creating uneven shaping throughout. ✗ Rushing the belly patch attachment without proper pinning causes puckering and an unprofessional finish on the front. ✗ Using yarn that's too thin or hook too large allows stuffing to show through stitches visibly. ✗ Forgetting to add stuffing to arms before fully sewing them creates flat, lifeless limbs that look incomplete. ✗ Not paying attention to the oval shape orientation when attaching head to body results in awkward positioning.

Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

Create your very own oversized Snorlax plushie with this comprehensive amigurumi pattern! This cuddly Pokemon character stands approximately 26 inches tall and 28 inches wide, making it the perfect companion for naptime or display. Using super bulky Bernat Blanket yarn, you'll craft a soft, huggable friend that captures Snorlax's sleepy charm. This detailed pattern guides you through every step, from the rounded belly to the tiny claws, resulting in an impressive project that any Pokemon fan will treasure.

Advanced 15-20 Hours

Materials Needed for Giant Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    3 large skeins of Bernat Blanket yarn in Lagoon (regular) or Lapis (shiny) for main body color
  • 02
    1 skein of Bernat Blanket yarn in Birch for belly patch and feet
  • 03
    Less than 1 skein of Bernat Blanket yarn in Taupe for foot pads (or substitute brown felt)
  • 04
    Small skein of Bernat Blanket yarn in White for claws and teeth
  • 05
    Optional: small amount of Bernat Blanket yarn in Black for eyes and mouth embroidery

— Tools Required

  • 01
    7mm crochet hook or size needed for tight gauge
  • 02
    Approximately 5 pounds of polyester stuffing
  • 03
    Stitch markers
  • 04
    Sewing needle (yarn needle)
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    T-pins or regular pins for assembly
  • 07
    Small amount of white felt for teeth
  • 08
    Fabric glue
  • 09
    Black yarn or embroidery thread for facial features

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Info :

Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join rounds. Made in Lagoon or Lapis

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Increase in each stitch (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

sc in each stitch (54)

Round 11 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 5, 4 sc (60)

Round 12 :

sc in each stitch (60)

Round 13 :

(14 sc, inc) x 4 (64)

Round 14-18 :

sc in each stitch (64)

Round 19 :

(14 sc, dec) x 4 (60)

Round 20 :

sc in each stitch (60)

Round 21 :

4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 5, 4 sc (54)

Round 22 :

sc in each stitch (54)

Round 23 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

Info :

Fasten off. Add stuffing to the head. The increases from round 13 should make the head slightly oval-shaped

— Body :

Info :

Worked in an oval shape. Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in Lagoon or Lapis

Round 1 :

Chain 18. Starting in the second chain from the hook: inc, 15 sc, make 3 sc in the last chain. Turn so you are working on the opposite side of the foundation chain. 16 sc. (36)

Round 2 :

inc, inc, 15 sc, inc, inc, inc, 15 sc, inc (42)

Round 3 :

sc, inc, sc, inc, 16 sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 16 sc, inc (48)

Round 4 :

2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc (54)

Round 5 :

3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc (60)

Round 6 :

4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc (66)

Round 7 :

5 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc (72)

Round 8 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 7, 4 sc (80)

Round 9 :

(9 sc, inc) x 8 (88)

Round 10 :

5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) x 7, 5 sc (96)

Round 11 :

sc in each stitch (96)

Round 12 :

(11 sc, inc) x 8 (104)

Round 13 :

sc in each stitch (104)

Round 14 :

6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) x 7, 6 sc (112)

Round 15-24 :

sc in each stitch (112)

Round 25 :

6 sc, dec, (12 sc, dec) x 7, 6 sc (104)

Round 26-29 :

sc in each stitch (104)

Round 30 :

(11 sc, dec) x 8 (96)

Round 31 :

sc in each stitch (96)

Round 32 :

5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) x 7, 5 sc (88)

Round 33 :

sc in each stitch (88)

Round 34 :

(9 sc, dec) x 8 (80)

Round 35 :

4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 7, 4 sc (72)

Round 36 :

sc in each stitch (72)

Round 37 :

(7 sc, dec) x 8 (64)

Round 38 :

sc in each stitch (64)

Round 39 :

3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 7, 3 sc (56)

Round 40 :

sc in each stitch (56)

Round 41 :

(5 sc, dec) x 8 (48)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a very long tail to sew the body to the head. Add a LOT of stuffing to the body

— Ears :

Info :

Make two ears. Made in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in Lagoon or Lapis

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

(sc, inc) x 3 (9)

Round 3 :

sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc (12)

Round 4 :

sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc (16)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 4 (20)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc (24)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the head

— Arms :

Info :

Make two arms. Made in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in Lagoon or Lapis

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

increase in each stitch (12)

Round 3 :

inc, inc, 3 sc, inc, inc, inc, 3 sc, inc (18)

Round 4 :

sc in each stitch (18)

Round 5 :

4 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 4 sc (20)

Round 6 :

9 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc (22)

Round 7-11 :

sc in each stitch (22)

Round 12 :

sc in each stitch, then chain one & turn to start working in rows (22)

Info :

Working in rows instead of rounds. Make sure you have already chained & turned

Row 13 :

16 sc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 14 :

dec, 12 sc, dec, chain one & turn (14)

Row 15 :

14 sc, chain one & turn (14)

Row 16 :

dec, 10 sc, dec, chain one & turn (12)

Row 17 :

12 sc, chain one & turn (12)

Row 18 :

dec, 8 sc, dec, chain one & turn (10)

Row 19 :

10 sc, chain one & turn (10)

Row 20 :

dec, 6 sc, dec, chain one & turn (8)

Row 21 :

8 sc, chain one & turn (8)

Row 22 :

dec, 4 sc, dec, chain one & turn (6)

Row 23 :

6 sc (6)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the sides of the body. Add stuffing to the bottom of the arm (the part that's in rows will be stuffed when the arm is sewed to the body)

— Feet :

Info :

Make two feet. Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in Birch

Round 1 :

Chain 6. Starting in the second chain from the hook: inc, 3 sc, make 3 sc in the last chain. Turn so you are working on the opposite side of the foundation chain. 4 sc. (12)

Round 2 :

inc, inc, 3 sc, inc, inc, inc, 3 sc, inc (18)

Round 3 :

sc, inc, sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 4 sc, inc (24)

Round 4 :

2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc (30)

Round 5 :

3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc (36)

Round 6 :

3 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, sc (42)

Info :

Please note the beginning of this round does NOT have an error in it. Rounds shifted a bit

Round 7-8 :

sc in each stitch (42)

Round 9 :

4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec (36)

Round 10 :

3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec (30)

Round 11 :

2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec (24)

Round 12 :

2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (20)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew each of the feet to the body. Add stuffing to the feet

— Foot Pads :

Info :

Make two foot pads. Worked in joined rounds - slip stitch & chain one at the end of each round. Made in Taupe

Round 1 :

Make 8 hdc in a magic ring, slip stitch to the first stitch & chain one (8)

Round 2 :

Make a half double crochet increase in the same stitch as the slip stitch. Half double crochet increase in each of the next 7 stitches. Slip stitch to the first stitch (16)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew to the foot

— Belly Patch :

Info :

Worked in rows. Made in Birch

Row 1 :

Chain 13. Starting in the second chain from the hook: inc, 10 sc, inc, chain one & turn (14)

Row 2 :

inc, 12 sc, inc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 3 :

inc, 14 sc, inc, chain one & turn (18)

Row 4 :

inc, 16 sc, inc, chain one & turn (20)

Row 5 :

inc, 18 sc, inc, chain one & turn (22)

Row 6 :

inc, 20 sc, inc, chain one & turn (24)

Row 7-18 :

24 sc, chain one & turn (24)

Row 19 :

dec, 20 sc, dec, chain one & turn (22)

Row 20 :

22 sc, chain one & turn (22)

Row 21 :

dec, 18 sc, dec, chain one & turn (20)

Row 22 :

20 sc, chain one & turn (20)

Row 23 :

dec, 16 sc, dec, chain one & turn (18)

Row 24 :

dec, 14 sc, dec, chain one & turn (16)

Row 25 :

16 sc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 26 :

dec, 12 sc, dec, chain one & turn (14)

Row 27 :

dec, 10 sc, dec, chain one & turn (12)

Row 28 :

12 sc, chain one & turn (12)

Row 29 :

inc, 10 sc, inc, chain one & turn (14)

Row 30 :

inc, 12 sc, inc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 31-37 :

16 sc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 38 :

dec, 4 sc, dec. Place marker in the next stitch (the ninth stitch from row 37). Chain one & turn (6)

Row 39 :

6 sc, chain one & turn (6)

Row 40 :

dec, 2 sc, dec, chain one & turn (4)

Row 41 :

dec, dec, chain one & turn (2)

Row 42 :

dec (1)

Info :

Fasten off. Attach yarn in the stitch that was marked in row 37, when making row 38 & continue

Row 43 :

dec, 4 sc, dec, chain one & turn (6)

Row 44 :

6 sc, chain one & turn (6)

Row 45 :

dec, 2 sc, dec, chain one & turn (4)

Row 46 :

dec, dec, chain one & turn (2)

Row 47 :

dec (1)

Info :

Fasten off. Flip the belly patch over so that the right side of the piece is facing. Attach a new piece of yarn to the bottom left corner & sc a border around. Make 3 sc in row 42. Make 4 sc down the sides of the rows of the top piece. Dec over the next two stitches. Make 4 sc up the other side of the rows (on the second top piece) & make 3 sc in row 47. Then continue on down the other side of the piece. Make sure that you have an even number of stitches on both of the long sides of the piece. When finished crocheting the border, fasten off & leave a very long tail to sew the belly patch to the body

— Claws (Hands) :

Info :

Make 10 claws. Made in White

Option 1 :

Make a magic ring with 3 sc. Slip stitch to the first stitch (3)

Option 2 :

Chain 2. Make 3 sc in the second chain from the hook. Slip stitch to the first stitch (3)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew to the hands

— Claws (Feet) :

Info :

Make 6 claws. Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in White

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring with 3 sc (3)

Round 2 :

inc, inc, inc (6)

Round 3 :

sc in each stitch (6)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew the claws to the feet

Assembly Instructions

  • Stuff the body and head firmly with approximately 5 pounds of stuffing, ensuring even distribution throughout all sections.
  • Using the long tail from the body, sew the body to the head by working through the tops of the body stitches and around the posts of the last head round, aligning the oval shapes correctly.
  • Pin the belly patch to the body with the bottom sitting between rounds 15-16 of the body and the top between rounds 8-9 of the head, using T-pins for better hold.
  • Sew the belly patch border to the body by working around the posts of the stitches for a neat finish, taking extra care with rows 27-28 which form the neck area.
  • Pin and sew the ears to the head between rounds 5-6 and 11-12, adding stuffing before completing the attachment.
  • Pin the arms to the body sides, aligning the top 6 stitches near the head and bottom 6 stitches between rounds 28-29, then sew the row sides in a straight line down the body while stuffing the row portion as you go.
  • Sew 5 claws close together on each hand, attach foot pads between rounds 3-4 of each foot, then sew feet to the body angled outward between rounds 12-13 (bottom) and 19-20 (top), and finally attach 3 claws to each foot between rounds 7-9.

Important Notes

  • 💡Gauge doesn't matter for amigurumi, but keep stitches tight and consistent to prevent stuffing from showing through the fabric
  • 💡This is a very large project requiring approximately 5 pounds of stuffing and significant time investment for assembly
  • 💡Use T-pins instead of regular pins for attaching the belly patch, as regular pins may be too small for the thick yarn
  • 💡Work around the posts of stitches when sewing pieces together for a much neater, more professional appearance than whip stitching
  • 💡The head and body are both intentionally oval-shaped, so pay attention to orientation when joining pieces together
  • 💡Take your time with the belly patch attachment as it's the most challenging part of assembly but crucial for the final look

This giant Snorlax amigurumi pattern brings one of Pokemon's most beloved characters to life in spectacular oversized form! Standing at an impressive 26 inches tall, this cuddly companion uses super soft Bernat Blanket yarn to create the perfect naptime buddy. The detailed instructions guide you through creating every element from the signature belly patch to the tiniest claws, resulting in a showstopping piece that any Pokemon fan will absolutely adore. While this is a time-intensive project, the result is a museum-quality plushie that becomes a treasured part of your home. Get ready for the ultimate cozy crafting adventure! 🧶💙✨

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FAQs

Can I make a smaller version of this Snorlax?

Yes! The pattern mentions you can create a smaller version by using worsted weight yarn with a 3mm, 3.5mm, or 4mm crochet hook instead of the super bulky Bernat Blanket yarn and 7mm hook.

How much stuffing will I really need for this project?

You'll need approximately 5 pounds of polyester stuffing. This seems like a lot, but the finished Snorlax is very large (26 inches tall, 28 inches wide) and needs to be stuffed firmly to maintain its shape and cuddly structure.

What's the hardest part of making this Snorlax?

According to the pattern creator, attaching the belly patch is the most challenging and time-consuming part. You'll need to carefully pin it in place (using T-pins works best) and sew around the posts of the border stitches for a neat finish.

Can I substitute the foot pads with something other than crocheted pieces?

Yes! The pattern suggests you can use brown felt instead of crocheting the Taupe foot pads if you prefer. This can save time and simplify the assembly process.

Do I need to use the exact yarn specified in the pattern?

While Bernat Blanket yarn is recommended for the authentic soft, bulky texture, you can use any super bulky (weight 6) yarn. Just make sure your hook size creates tight enough stitches that stuffing won't poke through.

How do I keep track of rounds in continuous spiral work?

Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round. This helps you keep track of where rounds begin and end, which is especially important for the large body section with many rounds.