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Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern
4.8★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
2.7K Made This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced knitters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive knitting.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

This Demodog pattern is inspired by the beloved creature from Stranger Things, featuring an innovative wire armature system that allows the iconic flower-like head petals to be posed and repositioned. The pattern includes detailed instructions for creating the distinctive mouth with embroidered teeth, a sturdy body with posable arms, and even a tiny removable heart accessory. Working with fingering weight yarn creates a perfectly sized companion at approximately 5 inches tall.

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The construction involves advanced techniques including wire insertion for structural stability, multiple color changes, and precise assembly to ensure the Demodog can sit upright. Special attention is given to creating the characteristic petal-shaped head flaps with clean edges and proper shaping.

Why You'll Love This Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love how this pattern brings such a unique character to life in crochet form! The wire armature technique is genius—it lets you pose the head petals in so many different ways, making each Demodog truly one-of-a-kind. I'm obsessed with the attention to detail, from the embroidered teeth to the tiny removable heart that adds such a fun storytelling element. What really makes this special is how it combines challenging techniques with creative problem-solving, giving you a finished piece that's not just cute but genuinely impressive. Every time I work on one, I discover new ways to pose and display it, and that interactive element makes it so much more than just a regular amigurumi.

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Demodog Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love experimenting with this pattern because there are so many ways to make each Demodog unique! For color variations, try making a darker, more menacing version using charcoal grey for the body instead of the kaki brown, or go wild with unnatural colors like deep purple or midnight blue for an otherworldly variant. You could also adjust the mouth colors - imagine a toxic green interior or even an ombre effect transitioning from deep red to bright orange for a fiery look.

For size modifications, this pattern scales beautifully - just use bulkier yarn with a larger hook for a mega Demodog display piece, or go the opposite direction with thread weight yarn for a tiny keychain version. If you want to add personality, consider embroidering different tooth patterns - some Demodogs could have fangs, others could have more uniform teeth, and you could even leave some gaps for a battle-worn appearance.

I've also had success adding texture variations by using fuzzy yarn for the body to give it a more creature-like appearance, though smooth yarn definitely shows the stitch definition better. For the ultimate customization, try making the heart in different sizes or adding small details like scars or spots to the body using embroidery. The wire armature system means you can even experiment with different petal arrangements - maybe make one with six petals instead of five for an even more alien look!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not using wire armature strong enough - use 18 or 19 gauge wire to ensure petals hold their shape properly ✗ Overstuffing the head petals with fiberfill - these should remain empty so the wire can move freely for posing ✗ Forgetting to tape wire ends before insertion - this can cause sharp points to poke through the fabric ✗ Skipping the pinning step before sewing legs - proper positioning is essential for the Demodog to sit upright correctly ✗ Not stuffing the body firmly enough - a well-stuffed body creates the stable base needed to support the heavy head ✗ Missing the slip stitch technique for oval starting rounds - this creates the proper oval shape for body and legs

Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

Bring the mysterious creature from Stranger Things to life with this adorable Demodog amigurumi pattern! This unique design features a distinctive flower-like head with posable petals thanks to wire armature, capturing the creature's iconic look. Perfect for fans of the show, this pattern creates a 5-inch friend with intricate details including embroidered teeth and a removable heart accessory. The finished Demodog can sit upright and his mouth petals can be posed in different positions for display.

Advanced 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Demodog Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fingering 4 ply yarn in black, white, light brown/grey, scarlet and red colors
  • 02
    Katia Capri 82126 Kaki for body (or equivalent light brown/grey fingering yarn)
  • 03
    Katia Capri 82056 Black for mouth interior
  • 04
    Scheepjes Catona 192 Scarlet for mouth
  • 05
    Katia Capri 82050 White for teeth
  • 06
    Katia Capri 82059 Red for heart accessory

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.5mm
  • 02
    Sewing needle
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Wire approximately 1mm diameter (18 or 19 Gauge)
  • 05
    Pliers for cutting and bending wire
  • 06
    Pins
  • 07
    Stitch markers
  • 08
    Running stitch markers (scrap piece of yarn)
  • 09
    Fiber fill stuffing
  • 10
    Tape for wrapping wire ends

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Mouth :

Round 1 :

Black: MR 5 (5)

Round 2 :

Black: (inc) x5 (10)

Round 3 :

Black: (1sc, inc) x5 (15)

Round 4 :

Black: (2sc, inc) x5 (20)

Round 5 :

Black: (3sc, inc) x5 (25)

Info :

Change color to scarlet

Round 6 :

Scarlet: (4sc, inc) x5 (30)

Round 7 :

Scarlet: (5sc, inc) x5 (35)

Round 8 :

Scarlet: (6sc, inc) x5 (40)

Round 9 :

Scarlet: 8sc, ch1, turn - 7sc, inc, ch1, turn - 8sc, inc, ch1, turn - 8sc, dec, ch1, turn - 7sc, dec, ch1, turn - 6sc, dec, ch1, turn - 5sc, dec, ch1, turn - 4sc, dec, ch1, turn - 3sc, dec, ch1, turn - 2sc, dec, ch1, turn - 1sc, dec, ch1, turn - dec (12 rows)

Infos :

FO, cut off yarn. Repeat round 9 x4. Start with new thread in next stitch in round 9 (slst, ch1 - start 1st stitch in the same stitch). Work away tail in the next 3 stitches as you go.

Info :

When you reach the last flap, don't cut the thread, ch1, turn, and 12 sc down the flap

Info :

When you reach the starting point of the flap, sc into the last (a) and first (b) flap-stitch of round 9. These stitches will now contain 2 sc's, 1 for the flap, and 1 for the border

Info :

NOTE! When you reach the next flap (the first flap you made in rnd 9), it will have only 12 stitches on the right side, first sc on the flap will be an inc to make 13 (c). The next 4 flaps will need no increases here

Info :

Including the first stitch of rnd 9, you will have 13 stitches along the side of each flap (d)

Info :

When you reach the top stitch (the point of the flap), sc 1 extra. So total of 3 stitches on top (rightside st. / middle st / leftside st.)

Info :

Sc all around the flaps. (135 st. total) Finish off and work away thread

— Head :

Round 1 :

Kaki: MR 5 (5)

Round 2 :

Kaki: (inc) x5 (10)

Round 3 :

Kaki: (1sc, inc) x5 (15)

Round 4 :

Kaki: (2sc, inc) x5 (20)

Round 5 :

Kaki: (3sc, inc) x5 (25)

Round 6 :

Kaki: (4sc, inc) x5 (30)

Round 7 :

Kaki: (5sc, inc) x5 (35)

Round 8 :

Kaki: (6sc, inc) x5 (40)

Round 9-14 :

Kaki: 40 sc (40) - 6 rounds

Round 15 :

Kaki: 8sc, ch1, turn - inc, 7sc, ch1, turn - inc, 8sc, ch1, turn - dec, 8sc, ch1, turn - dec, 7sc, ch1, turn - dec, 6sc, ch1, turn - dec, 5sc, ch1, turn - dec, 4sc, ch1, turn - dec, 3sc, ch1, turn - dec, 2sc, ch1, turn - dec, 1sc, ch1, turn - dec (12 rows)

Infos :

FO, cut off yarn. Repeat rnd 15 for each flap. Start with new thread (slst, ch1) in next stitch in round 14. The first sc will be in the same stitch as the slst, ch1. Work away tail in the next 3 stitches as you go.

Info :

When you reach the last flap, don't cut the thread, ch1, turn and 12 sc down the flap

Info :

When you reach the starting point of the flap, sc into the last and first flap-stitch of round 14. These stitches will now contain 2 sc's, 1 for the flap, and 1 for the border

Info :

Including this first stitch of rnd 14, you will have 13 stitches along the side of each flap

Info :

NOTE! When you reach the next flap (the first flap you made in rnd 14), it will have only 12 stitches on the right side, first sc on the flap will be an inc to fix this. The next 4 flaps will need no increases here

Info :

When you reach the top stitch (the point of the flaps), sc 1 extra. So total of 3 stitches on top (rightside st. / middle st / leftside st.)

Info :

Sc all around all remaining flaps. (135 st. total) Don't cut thread!

— Teeth :

Info :

Embroider teeth using white thread. They can be a bit messy, some short, some a little longer, but have them facing inward a bit. It doesn't matter if the backside looks messy, you won't see it when the head is finished

— Wire Armature Assembly :

Infos :

Using iron wire, make armature for flaps. You can use pliers to bend them into the star shape. Try to make the armature as similar to the mouth shape as possible. Twist the ends and wrap around with tape, to avoid pointy ends sticking out. Now we start to sc all around the mouth, together with the head, and have the armature trapped inside. Continue with the thread of the head. Sandwich the armature between the head and the mouth.

Steps :

1. Push the hook through the next head stitch - underneath the armature - through the corresponding mouth stitch. 2. Pull up yarn, now you have 2 loops on the hook. 3. Pull up yarn over the armature and 4. Finish the stitch

Info :

When reaching the 3 top stitches of the 5 points of the flaps: inc, 3inc, inc. You should have 7 top stitches in total

Infos :

Make sure the wire ends are inside the head. Continue this all around. (155 st. total) Make sure to stuff the head before closing the last flap. Don't fill the flaps with fiberfill. Finish off. Cut off yarn and work away thread

— Arms (make 2) :

Round 1 :

Kaki: MR 8 (8)

Round 2-6 :

Kaki: 8sc (8) - 5 rounds

Info :

FO, slst, work away yarn, don't fill up yet!

— Body :

Info :

For the Body, we start with an oval shape. You will be going down one side of the chain and back around the other side

Round 1 :

Kaki: ch6, sc in 2nd ch. from the hook and work down the chain, 3sc, 3inc, now work on the other side of the chain, 3sc, inc (12)

Info :

Make 1 slst into the 1st st. of the next round. Treat this slst as the new end of the round, and place your running stitch marker after this slst. The next stitch you crochet is the 1st st of the new round

Round 2 :

Kaki: 3sc, (inc) x3, 3sc, (inc)x3 (18)

Round 3 :

Kaki: 3sc, (1sc, inc)x3, 3sc, (1sc, inc)x3 (24)

Round 4-6 :

Kaki: 24sc (24) - 3 rounds

Round 7 :

Kaki: 3sc, (1sc, dec)x3, 12sc (21)

Round 8 :

Kaki: 3sc, (dec)x3, 12sc (18)

Info :

We'll be attaching the arms in the next round. Start sc on the first arm

Round 9 :

Kaki: 8sc on 1st arm, continue with body, 2sc, (dec)x3, 2sc, 8sc on 2nd arm, continue with body, 3sc, dec, 3sc (30)

Info :

NOTE! To avoid a gap in the armpit, you can either sew the hole shut. Or after you finish stitching 8sc around the arm, you can do an extra stitch sewing the first stitch of the arm together with the last used stitch of the body again. In the next round, this stitch is to be ignored

Round 10 :

Kaki: (3sc, dec)x6 (24)

Round 11 :

Kaki: (2sc, dec)x6 (18)

Round 12 :

Kaki: (1sc, dec)x6 (12)

Infos :

Slst, FO, Leave long tail. It may seem a little off just now, but when you start stuffing firmly, it'll get into shape. The big bulge is it's booty. Add wire for the arms, bend the ends (to avoid poking out) and wrap the pointy ends with tape. Place it in the arms

— Legs (make 2) :

Info :

For the Legs we start with an oval shape. You will be going down one side of the chain and back around the other side

Round 1 :

Kaki: ch4, sc in 2nd ch. from the hook and work down the chain, 1sc, 3inc, now work on the other side of the chain, 1sc, inc, slst (8)

Info :

Make 1 slst into the 1st st. of the next round. Treat this slst as the new end of the round, and place your running stitch marker after this slst. The next stitch you crochet is the 1st st of the new round

Round 2 :

Kaki: 1sc, (inc) x3, 1sc, (inc)x3 (14)

Round 3 :

Kaki: 14sc (14)

Round 4 :

Kaki: 1sc, (dec)x3, 7sc (11)

Round 5 :

Kaki: 1sc, 3dec (single crochet 3 stitches in front loops together), 7sc (9)

Round 6 :

Kaki: 1sc, inc, 7sc (10)

Round 7 :

Kaki: 2sc, inc, 7sc (11)

Round 8 :

Kaki: 2sc, inc, 8sc (12)

Round 9 :

Kaki: 3sc, inc, 8sc (13)

Round 10 :

Kaki: 3sc, inc, 9sc (14)

Round 11 :

Kaki: 14sc (14)

Round 12 :

Kaki: (dec)x7 (7)

Infos :

Slst, FO, leave long tail for sewing. Stuff the feet firmly, legs very lightly. Sew shut. Sew legs 6 stitches apart, (from bum). Counting from the last row of the leg, sew into 5 stitches of leg to attach to the body, also sew the inside of the leg of the 5th row to the body. Make sure the outside of the leg isn't stitched to body and can still bulge. It's best to place the body on a flat service and pin the legs first, to see if he can sit up properly

Info :

The front side is the flatter part of the body. The backside is the bulge. His bum is sticking out

— Tail :

Round 1 :

Kaki: MR 4 (4)

Round 2 :

Kaki: 3sc, inc (5)

Round 3 :

Kaki: 4sc, inc (6)

Round 4 :

Kaki: 5sc, inc (7)

Round 5 :

Kaki: 6sc, inc (8)

Round 6 :

Kaki: 7sc, inc (9)

Round 7 :

Kaki: 8sc, inc (10)

Infos :

Slst, FO, leave long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly. Place 10 pins, as to where the tail will be place (red pin is starting point). Sew tail to body

— Heart :

Round 1 :

Red: MR 6 (6)

Round 2 :

Red: (inc)x6 (12)

Round 3 :

Red: 12sc (12)

Info :

FO and work away yarn. Make another part just like the previous one by repeating rounds 1-3. Do not cut the yarn as we will continue using the yarn of the second part

Round 4 :

Red: Crochet the parts together, 12sc on part 1, and 11sc on part 2, we finish this round 1st earlier (23)

Round 5 :

Red: 24sc (24)

Round 6 :

Red: (dec, 6sc)x3 (21)

Round 7 :

Red: (dec, 5sc)x3 (18)

Round 8 :

Red: (dec, 4sc)x3 (15)

Round 9 :

Red: (dec, 3sc)x3 (12)

Info :

Stuff firmly

Round 10 :

Red: (dec)x6 (6)

Info :

FO, sew shut. Have a few threads dangling from heart, different colors. As if resembling veins - it's a ripped out heart :)

Assembly Instructions

  • Embroider white teeth on the scarlet mouth piece, making them irregular lengths and facing inward slightly before assembly
  • Create wire armature in star shape using pliers to match the mouth petal configuration, twist ends and tape securely
  • Sandwich wire armature between head and mouth pieces, crocheting through both layers to trap wire inside while working around
  • Add wire to arms before stuffing, bending ends and wrapping with tape to prevent poking through fabric
  • Stuff body very firmly to create stable base, noting the bulge is the back/booty while front is flatter
  • Pin legs 6 stitches apart from bum on flat surface to test sitting position before sewing permanently to body
  • Place 12 pins in head to mark body placement using 3 stitches under flaps, 3 to sides, 3 for back before sewing together

Important Notes

  • 💡Pattern uses yarn under/yarn over technique for straighter lines, but yarn over/yarn over also works without major changes
  • 💡Finished size with fingering yarn is 5 inches with mouth open and 4 inches with mouth closed
  • 💡Do not stuff the head petals/flaps with fiberfill - they must remain empty for wire posing functionality
  • 💡Wire can break from repeated bending - tape the bends for reinforcement to prevent breakage over time
  • 💡When using heavier weight yarn, add extra stitches at back of head to prevent tipping due to increased weight
  • 💡First flap in each section requires an increase to fix stitch count - remaining flaps don't need this adjustment
  • 💡To avoid armpit gaps when attaching arms, add extra stitch connecting first arm stitch to last body stitch used

This incredible Demodog pattern captures the mysterious charm of Stranger Things' iconic creature with innovative wire armature engineering that brings the flower-like head to life! The pattern masterfully combines advanced techniques like wire insertion, petal shaping, and embroidery to create a truly interactive display piece. Whether you're a Stranger Things superfan or simply love unique amigurumi challenges, this pattern delivers both technical satisfaction and adorable results. The removable heart accessory adds a playful storytelling touch that makes this project unforgettable. 🧶 Happy crocheting! 🐾✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Can I make this pattern without using wire armature?

While you can technically make the Demodog without wire, the wire armature is what makes the head petals posable and gives the creature its distinctive look. Without wire, the petals will be floppy and won't hold their shape. If you're concerned about wire for safety reasons, you could make it without for young children, but it won't have the same display quality.

What type of wire works best for the armature?

The pattern calls for 1mm wire in 18 or 19 gauge. This thickness is important because it needs to be strong enough to hold the petal shapes but still flexible enough to pose. Always tape the bent areas and wrap the ends completely to prevent poking through the fabric or breaking from repeated bending.

Can I use a different yarn weight for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but the finished size will change accordingly. If you use heavier yarn, you may need to add extra stitches at the back of the head when attaching to the body to prevent it from tipping forward due to the increased weight of the larger head.

Why do the first flaps need an extra increase while the others don't?

The first flap ends up with only 12 stitches on the right side due to how the rounds connect, so it needs an increase to match the 13 stitches that the other flaps naturally have. This ensures all petals are uniform when you crochet the border around them.

How firmly should I stuff each part?

The body should be stuffed very firmly to create a stable base for the heavy head. The feet should be stuffed firmly, but the legs only very lightly. The head itself should be well-stuffed, but critically, the petals/flaps should NOT be stuffed at all so the wire can move freely for posing.