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Crochet Spiral Hexagon Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern

Crochet Spiral Hexagon Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern
4.8★Rating
10-15 HoursTime Needed
4.1KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Crochet Spiral Hexagon Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern

Crochet Spiral Hexagon Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Lovely as a housewarming or wedding gift, and just as happy draped over a guest bed or layered at the foot of your own. The pillow shams are small enough to make first as a test run.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Spiral Hexagon Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern

I’ll be honest, I figured the two-color spirals would drive me up the wall, and they totally didn’t. Once you find your rhythm with the color changes, the swirl shows up almost on its own. What I love most is how forgiving it is. If one arm lands a stitch or two off, nobody will ever notice once the black outline round goes around it, and that little wobble gives each hexagon its own personality. I’ve caught myself saying just one more hexagon more times than I’ll admit.

Crochet Spiral Hexagon Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern step 1 Crochet Spiral Hexagon Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern step 2 Crochet Spiral Hexagon Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern step 3 Crochet Spiral Hexagon Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

The first hexagon I made came out looking like a lopsided pancake, and I almost tossed it in the scrap bin. Then I noticed the black arm curling around the middle, and I couldn’t stop looking at it. That little swirl is what hooked me on this whole bedspread.

Here’s a trick that saved me hours: I wrote the color changes for each round on an index card and clipped it to my work, so I never had to reread the pattern. Rounds 8 and 9 are the sneaky ones with two black patches, so I put a stitch marker at the start of each patch. Pulling the new color up snug on the last yarn over keeps the joins tidy.

I made most of mine in the evening, one hexagon per sitting, and joined them in batches of six on Sundays. If you’d like a softer look, swap the black for deep charcoal or a dark chocolate brown and keep the tan. A navy and cream version would look gorgeous too.

And when the bobbles finally go on, take a step back before you move on. That’s the moment the whole thing clicks and feels like a real bedspread.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ The long tan stretches in Rounds 8, 9 and 10 leave the black strand floating loosely behind, so twist the colors every 8 to 10 stitches or the floats will pull and cup the hexagon into a bowl.✗ If your hexagon looks round instead of six-sided, you most likely missed a 2 sc in the last stitch of a segment in Rounds 2 to 10, so recount each of the six segments before moving to the next round.✗ Pulling the join stitches too tight in Round 12 makes the black seams pucker, so keep each joining sc as loose as your regular sc so the bedspread hangs flat on the mattress.✗ At the spot where three hexagons meet, a small hole opens if you skip the middle corner sc, so work that stitch into the shared corner of the third hexagon to close the gap.✗ Bobbles in the edging tend to flip toward the wrong side, so push each one to the front as you finish it and give it a gentle tug before working the next 2 sc.✗ The sham front and back won’t line up if the middle row is offset in opposite directions, so shift Row 2 to the right on both panels before you pin them together for the edging.

Crochet Spiral Hexagon Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern

You know that moment when a blanket stops being a project and turns into the star of the bedroom? This one gets there. Bold black spirals swirl across warm tan hexagons, and the whole thing comes together one motif at a time, so you can crochet a few while the kettle boils or a show plays in the background. The matching pillow shams use the very same hexagon, so you’ll be a pro by the time you reach them. Pick your favorite chair, stack up some skeins, and get ready to build a bedspread with real presence.

Intermediate 10-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Spiral Hexagon Bedspread and Pillow Sham Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 2,200 g (roughly 2,100 m) of worsted weight cotton yarn in warm tan for the hexagon backgrounds on the bedspread and both shams
  • 02
    Approximately 1,600 g (roughly 1,500 m) of worsted weight cotton yarn in black for the spiral arms, the outline round, and the bobble edging

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook, approximately, adjusted to match the 15 cm (6 in) hexagon size
  • 02
    Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
  • 03
    Sharp scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers for the start of each round and each color patch
  • 05
    Rust-proof pins for blocking
  • 06
    Blocking mats or a clean, large flat surface
  • 07
    Measuring tape
  • 08
    Two pillow forms, each about 50 x 40 cm (20 x 16 in)
  • 09
    Small index card and pen for tracking the color changes

Progress Tracker

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— 1. Spiral Hexagon Motif :

Info :

Each hexagon measures approximately 15 cm (6 in) from flat side to flat side. The finished bedspread is approximately 195 x 238 cm (77 x 94 in) and uses 225 hexagons. Make 9 for each sham front as well. Work in joined rounds with the right side always facing you, and don’t turn. Ch 1 at the start of a round does not count as a st. Mark the first sc of every round. Change color on the last yarn over of the st before the change, and carry the unused color along the back by working over it. Twist the two strands every 8 to 10 sts so the floats stay snug. Check your first hexagon against 15 cm (6 in) and change your hook size if needed.

Round 1 :

With B, make an MR, ch 1, work 6 sc in the ring, pull the ring closed, join with sl st to the first sc (6)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st to the first sc. Color: B for the first 4 sts, T for the last 8 sts (12)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, join. Color: T for the first 2 sts, B for the next 6 sts, T for the last 10 sts (18)

Round 4 :

Ch 1, [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, join. Color: T for the first 6 sts, B for the next 8 sts, T for the last 10 sts (24)

Round 5 :

Ch 1, [sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, join. Color: T for the first 11 sts, B for the next 10 sts, T for the last 9 sts (30)

Round 6 :

Ch 1, [sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, join. Color: T for the first 18 sts, B for the next 12 sts, T for the last 6 sts (36)

Round 7 :

Ch 1, [sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, join. Color: T for the first 26 sts, B for the next 14 sts, T for the last 2 sts (42)

Round 8 :

Ch 1, [sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, join. Color: B for the first 4 sts, T for the next 32 sts, B for the last 12 sts (48)

Round 9 :

Ch 1, [sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, join. Color: B for the first 11 sts, T for the next 36 sts, B for the last 7 sts (54)

Round 10 :

Ch 1, [sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, join. Color: B for the first 20 sts, T for the last 40 sts. Cut B and carry on with T only (60)

Round 11 :

With T, ch 1, [sc in next 10 sts, ch 3] 6 times, join with sl st to the first sc. Change to B on the last yarn over of the join (60 sc and six ch-3 sps)

Round 12 :

With B, ch 1, [sc in next 10 sc, 3 sc in next ch-3 sp] 6 times, join with sl st to the first sc, fasten off. This is the outline round that you join as you go in the next section (78)

— 2. Joining and Layout :

Info :

Join as you go during Round 12. Number the six sides of the hexagon 1 to 6, counterclockwise, starting from the first corner. On a side that touches a finished hexagon, work each of the 10 side sc into the matching st of the neighbor: insert the hook from front to back through both loops of the neighbor’s st, then finish the sc as usual. For each corner, work the first and third sc in your own hexagon and the middle sc into the neighbor’s middle corner st. Where three hexagons meet, work that middle corner sc into the shared corner st of the third hexagon too. Keep the joining sc as loose as your regular sc.

Row 1 :

Lay the hexagons with a corner pointing up. Make 13 hexagons, joining each new one to the previous along one vertical side (13 hexagons, 12 joins)

Row 2 :

Make 12 hexagons, nesting each one into the dip between two hexagons of Row 1. Join each to Row 1 along two sides, and join each after the first along one vertical side to its left neighbor (12 hexagons)

Info :

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eight more times for 18 rows in total: 9 rows of 13 hexagons and 9 rows of 12 hexagons, which is 225 hexagons. In each 13-hexagon row after the first, the two end hexagons touch only one hexagon of the row above, so they join along one side only. To widen by about 15 cm (6 in), make 14 hexagons in the odd rows and 13 in the even rows, which adds 18 hexagons in total. To lengthen, each extra pair of rows adds about 26 cm (10 in) and 25 hexagons. For a throw of about 120 x 150 cm (47 x 59 in), make 11 rows alternating 8 and 7 hexagons, starting and ending with 8 (83 hexagons).

— 3. Bedspread Bobble Edging :

Info :

Bobble: yarn over, insert hook in the st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops, leaving the last loop on the hook. Repeat that 4 more times in the same st (6 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all 6 loops, then ch 1 to lock it. That locking ch does not count as a st. Work the edging in B around the entire outer edge of the spread with the right side facing you.

Round 1 :

Join B in any outer corner st, ch 1, and work sc evenly around the whole outer edge: 1 sc in each outer sc, 3 sc in each outer corner of the spread, and 1 sc in each join where two hexagons meet. Near the end, work or skip 1 or 2 sts so the total divides evenly by 3. Join with sl st to the first sc

Round 2 :

Ch 1, [sc in next 2 sts, bobble in next st] repeat around the whole edge, join with sl st to the first sc, fasten off

— 4. Pillow Sham Front :

Info :

Each sham front uses 9 spiral hexagons and measures approximately 52 x 43 cm (20.5 x 17 in), which fits a pillow form of about 50 x 40 cm (20 x 16 in). Make two fronts for a pair of shams, working the hexagons and joins exactly as in Sections 1 and 2.

Row 1 :

Make 3 hexagons and join them side by side along vertical sides (3 hexagons, 2 joins)

Row 2 :

Make 3 hexagons shifted half a hexagon to the right. Nest the first hexagon in the dip between hexagons 1 and 2 of Row 1, and the second in the dip between hexagons 2 and 3. Place the third so it hangs half past the right end, joined to Row 1 hexagon 3 along one side. Join each hexagon to its left neighbor along one vertical side (3 hexagons)

Row 3 :

Make 3 hexagons lined up under Row 1. Join hexagon 1 to Row 2 hexagon 1 along one side, hexagon 2 to Row 2 hexagons 1 and 2 along two sides, and hexagon 3 to Row 2 hexagons 2 and 3 along two sides. Join each to its left neighbor along one vertical side (3 hexagons)

— 5. Pillow Sham Back :

Info :

The back is made of plain hexagons so it has the same zigzag outline as the front. Make 9 plain hexagons for each sham.

Plain Back Hexagon :

Work Rounds 1 to 11 of the Spiral Hexagon using T for every st and keeping all the same stitch counts, then work Round 12 in B with the same joining method (78)

Row 1 :

Join 3 plain hexagons side by side along vertical sides (3 hexagons)

Row 2 :

Join 3 plain hexagons shifted half a hexagon to the right, nested and joined exactly as on the front (3 hexagons)

Row 3 :

Join 3 plain hexagons lined up under Row 1, joined exactly as on the front (3 hexagons)

— 6. Pillow Sham Edging :

Info :

Hold the front and back with wrong sides together and the right side of the front facing you. Match the zigzag outlines and pin at every outer corner. The edging closes the sham, so work Round 1 through both layers.

Round 1 :

Join B in any outer corner, ch 1, and work sc through both layers around the edge, placing 3 sc in each outer corner and 1 sc in each join. When you reach the middle of the bottom edge, stop and slip the pillow form inside. Keep working sc through both layers to close the opening, adjusting by 1 or 2 sts so the total divides by 3, then join with sl st to the first sc

Round 2 :

Ch 1, [sc in next 2 sts, bobble in next st] repeat around, join with sl st to the first sc, fasten off

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in every tail on the wrong side, running each one through at least 4 sts of the same color, and trim the carried floats where the black strand crosses the long tan stretches of Rounds 8 to 10.
  • Wet block the joined bedspread in sections, pinning each hexagon corner so every motif measures about 15 cm (6 in) from flat side to flat side, then let it dry completely flat.
  • After blocking, work the bobble edging from Section 3 around the whole spread so the bobbles stay plump and are not pressed flat under pins.
  • Block the sham front and back panels separately, then lay them wrong sides together with Row 2 shifted to the right on both, and pin at each of the outer corners.
  • Work Round 1 of the sham edging through both layers, stopping at the middle of the bottom edge to insert the pillow form, then close and add the bobble round.
  • Fluff each bobble with your fingertip, then lay the spread so the 13-hexagon rows run across the width of the bed with the scalloped sides hanging evenly on both drops.

Important Notes

  • 💡Make your first hexagon and measure it before you commit to the whole spread. It should be about 15 cm (6 in) flat to flat, so go down or up a hook size if yours is off.
  • 💡Soak a small swatch of the black and tan together in warm water before you start, because dark cotton can bleed, and wash the black skeins first if it does.
  • 💡Write the color table for Rounds 2 to 10 on an index card and clip it to your work so you don’t need to reread the pattern at every round.
  • 💡Keep a tally of finished hexagons in a notebook, since 225 is a lot to track by memory and it’s easy to lose count when you make them in batches.
  • 💡Join the hexagons in batches of one or two rows rather than at the very end, so the seams stay even and you can see the layout taking shape.
  • 💡Use yarn from the same dye lot for the tan, and wind small bobbins of black so the carried strand never tangles in the long tan stretches.
  • 💡Wash the finished spread gently and reshape it flat to dry, as the black bobbles hold their shape best when they are not tumbled hard.

Every swirl you add makes this bedspread a little more yours. Keep a pile of finished hexagons nearby, spread them out whenever you need a boost, and watch the pattern slowly take over the floor. Once the black bobbles go on, you’ll have a piece that looks like it came straight from a boutique, only it carries every evening you spent making it. Grab your hook and your two favorite colors, and start with that first tiny black ring. 🧶✨ Happy hooking, and don’t forget to show off those spirals! 🧵

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FAQs

Can I use a different yarn weight for this bedspread?

You can, but the 15 cm (6 in) hexagon and the 225-hexagon count are based on worsted cotton and a 4.5 mm hook. Thicker yarn makes each hexagon bigger, so you’d need fewer of them, while finer yarn means more. Make one hexagon first, measure it flat to flat, and divide your target width by that number to work out how many hexagons go in each row.

How many hexagons do I need for a smaller throw or a twin size?

For a throw of about 120 x 150 cm (47 x 59 in), make 11 rows alternating 8 and 7 hexagons, starting and ending with 8, which is 83 hexagons. For a twin, 10 across with alternating 9 across for about 17 rows works well. Each extra hexagon across adds about 15 cm (6 in), and each pair of rows adds about 26 cm (10 in).

Will carrying the black yarn behind make bumps on the front?

Not if you work over the carried strand and twist the two colors every 8 to 10 stitches. The long tan stretches in Rounds 8, 9 and 10 are where floats cause trouble, so keep the carried strand slightly loose rather than tight. If you see a bump after blocking, tug the stitches next to it to even things out.

Why does my spiral look lopsided compared to the others?

Usually a color patch started one or two stitches off. The arm is forgiving because the black outline round frames every hexagon, but you can avoid drift by placing a stitch marker at the start of each color patch and counting segments against the index card as you go.

Can I make the pillow shams larger?

Yes. Add a fourth hexagon to each of the three rows on both the front and back, which widens the sham to about 67.5 cm (26.5 in) and adds 6 hexagons per panel. Use a pillow form to match, and keep the middle row shifted to the right on both panels so the zigzag edges still line up.

Do I have to block the hexagons?

It’s worth it. Blocking evens out the spiral and makes every join lie flat, and it gives the bobble edging a clean base. Pin each hexagon corner to 15 cm (6 in) flat to flat, mist or wet block, and leave it until it’s fully dry before you add the edging.