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Crochet Reindeer Christmas Table Runner Pattern

Crochet Reindeer Christmas Table Runner Pattern
4.5★Rating
14-16 HoursTime Needed
3.5KMade This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

⏱️

Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

🎄

Holiday Cheer

Festive fun for the season, bringing handmade magic to celebrations and creating new family traditions.

About This Crochet Reindeer Christmas Table Runner Pattern

Crochet Reindeer Christmas Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Lay it down the middle of your holiday table, drape it across a mantel or sideboard, or wrap it up for a grandmother who collects handmade Christmas decor. It makes a lovely heirloom gift.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Reindeer Christmas Table Runner Pattern

I’ll be honest, I’m usually a one-motif-at-a-time kind of crocheter, and this runner won me over because every little piece is a tiny win. A finished nose? Win. A finished bow? Win. By the time you reach the holly you’re so deep in the groove that you don’t want to stop. I also love how forgiving it is. A wonky leaf just becomes part of the hedge, and no two reindeer have to match exactly. That’s where the charm lives, if you ask me.

Crochet Reindeer Christmas Table Runner Pattern step 1 Crochet Reindeer Christmas Table Runner Pattern step 2 Crochet Reindeer Christmas Table Runner Pattern step 3 Crochet Reindeer Christmas Table Runner Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

The first time I made this runner, I did it backwards. I crocheted all the noses before a single doily was done, and then my kitchen table looked like it was hosting a tiny red-nosed army. Honestly? It was the best mistake, because I could see the personality coming together long before the table was ready.

Here’s my tip: batch your colors. Do all four heads in one sitting, then all four muzzles, then switch to the nose. You stop weaving in ends every ten minutes and the rhythm gets almost meditative. Keep a little bowl on your lap so the berries don’t escape across the room.

If red and green feels too classic, try icy blue bows with silver-gray antlers for a winter table that stays pretty past December. I’ve also tested cream holly leaves with gold berries for a New Year’s version, and it was gorgeous in candlelight.

One more thing. Don’t skip blocking the doilies. I know, I know, it’s the boring part. But those scalloped edges go from wobbly to crisp, and that’s where the runner suddenly looks like it came from a boutique.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ The doily edge can ruffle if the increases in Rounds 6 to 8 get pulled tight, so keep your ch-1 spaces loose and block the doily flat with a pin in every shell.✗ Antlers tend to curl and flop sideways once they’re sewn on, so stitch down along the whole beam, not just the base, and use a light mist of fabric stiffener to keep the prongs upright.✗ Berries come out lumpy and uneven when they’re overstuffed, so use only a small pinch of fiberfill before the six-stitch closing round pulls everything up smooth.✗ If the bow loop seam faces front, you get a visible ridge across the bow, so turn the seam to the back and let the center knot band cover it completely.✗ The holly picots vanish into the leaf edge if you chain them too tightly, so keep each picot loose enough that the little points stand away from the leaf.✗ Placing a face too high on the doily leaves the antlers crowding the scalloped edge, so center each face on the doily and check that the antler tips sit clear of Round 9.

Crochet Reindeer Christmas Table Runner Pattern

Picture four cream doilies lined up down your table, each one wearing a sweet little reindeer face with a shiny red nose. That’s this runner. Plump red bows tie the whole line together, and holly leaves with berry clusters tuck in along both sides like a festive hedgerow. Every piece is made separately, so the project stays relaxed and easy to pick up in short bursts. Then you stitch it all together and end up with a centerpiece that looks like it came out of a Christmas storybook.

Advanced 14-16 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Reindeer Christmas Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 120g of DK-weight mercerized cotton in cream for the four doilies
  • 02
    About 25g of DK-weight cotton in caramel brown for the reindeer heads
  • 03
    Roughly 15g of cotton in light tan for the muzzles and ears
  • 04
    About 15g of cotton in dark chocolate brown for the antlers
  • 05
    Approximately 45g of cotton in bright cherry red for the bows, noses and berries
  • 06
    Roughly 50g of cotton in deep forest green for the holly leaves
  • 07
    A small amount, about 5g, of cotton in white for the little flowers
  • 08
    Eight small black beads (about 4 mm) or a few meters of black embroidery thread for the eyes

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook, approximately 3.5 mm
  • 02
    Tapestry needle
  • 03
    Sharp scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers
  • 05
    Fiberfill stuffing for noses and berries
  • 06
    Sewing needle and matching thread for attaching small pieces and beads
  • 07
    Rustproof pins
  • 08
    Blocking mats
  • 09
    Measuring tape
  • 10
    Fabric stiffener for the antlers (optional)

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— 1. Cream Doily (make 4) :

Info :

Each doily measures approximately 6.5 in (16.5 cm) across. Once the doilies are overlapped and joined, the full runner is approximately 22 in (56 cm) long and about 11 in (28 cm) wide including the holly. To lengthen it, make one extra doily, reindeer face and bow, which adds roughly 5.5 in (14 cm). Each doily starts with its own magic ring, so there is no foundation chain to adjust. Rounds begin with a ch that counts as a stitch and are joined with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch. Use cream throughout.

Round 1 :

MR, ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring, sl st to top of ch 3 (12 dc)

Round 2 :

ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to top of ch 3 (24 dc)

Round 3 :

ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * 10 more times (11 times total), sl st to top of ch 3 (36 dc)

Round 4 :

ch 3, dc in same st, dc in each of next 2 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts; repeat from * 10 more times (11 times total), sl st to top of ch 3 (48 dc)

Round 5 :

ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip next st, *dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st; repeat from * 22 more times (23 times total), sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 4 (24 dc, 24 ch-1 sps)

Round 6 :

ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same st, ch 1, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 3 times, *(dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, ch 1, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 3 times; repeat from * 4 more times (5 times total), sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 4 (30 dc, 30 ch-1 sps)

Round 7 :

ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same st, ch 1, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 4 times, *(dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, ch 1, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 4 times; repeat from * 4 more times (5 times total), sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 4 (36 dc, 36 ch-1 sps)

Round 8 :

ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in same st, ch 1, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 times, *(dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, ch 1, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 times; repeat from * 10 more times (11 times total), sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 4 (48 dc, 48 ch-1 sps)

Round 9 :

sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [skip next dc, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, skip next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp] 23 times, skip next dc, 3 dc in last ch-1 sp, skip next dc, sl st to first sc (24 sc, 24 shells of 3 dc). Fasten off and weave in ends.

— 2. Reindeer Head (make 4, caramel brown) :

Info :

Work the head, muzzle and nose in continuous spiral rounds without joining unless a round says to. Mark the first stitch of every round with a stitch marker.

Round 1 :

MR, 6 sc in ring (6)

Round 2 :

inc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

*sc in next st, inc; repeat from * around (18)

Round 4 :

*sc in each of next 2 sts, inc; repeat from * around (24)

Round 5 :

*sc in each of next 3 sts, inc; repeat from * around (30)

Round 6 :

*sc in each of next 4 sts, inc; repeat from * around (36)

Round 7 :

sc in each st around, sl st in next st (36). Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

— 3. Muzzle (make 4, light tan) :

Round 1 :

MR, 6 sc in ring (6)

Round 2 :

inc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

*sc in next st, inc; repeat from * around (18)

Round 4 :

*sc in each of next 2 sts, inc; repeat from * around (24)

Round 5 :

sc in each st around, sl st in next st (24). Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

— 4. Nose (make 4, red) :

Round 1 :

MR, 6 sc in ring (6)

Round 2 :

inc in each st around (12)

Round 3-4 :

sc in each st around (12)

Round 5 :

dec 6 times (6). Stuff the nose lightly, fasten off, and weave the tail through the front loops of the last round to close it. Leave a tail for sewing.

— 5. Ears (make 8, light tan) :

Round 1 :

ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each of next 2 ch, 3 hdc in last ch, rotate to work along the other side of the foundation ch, hdc in each of next 2 ch, sc in last ch, sl st to first sc (9). Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

— 6. Antlers (make 8, dark brown) :

Info :

Each antler is a slip stitch beam with two little prongs. The slip stitches work into the back bumps of the foundation chain, and the beam chains are counted from the tip down to the base.

Beam :

ch 11, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 2 ch (3 sl sts)

Prong 1 :

ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 2 ch (3 sl sts), then sl st in next unworked beam ch (1)

Lower beam :

sl st in each of next 2 beam ch (2)

Prong 2 :

ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 2 ch (3 sl sts), then sl st in next unworked beam ch (1)

Base :

sl st in each of last 3 beam ch (3). Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

— 7. Bow Loops (make 2 for each bow, red) :

Info :

You need 5 bows in all: one at each end of the runner and one at each of the three joins between doilies. For the larger bow at one end of the runner, work Rows 2-7 instead of Rows 2-5 on the loops.

Row 1 :

ch 13, dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (11 dc), turn

Row 2-5 :

ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st across, working last dc in top of turning ch (11 dc), turn. Fasten off after Row 5, leaving a long tail. Bring the short ends together and sew them to form a ring, with the seam at the back.

— 8. Bow Tails (make 2 for each bow, red) :

Row 1 :

ch 11, dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (9 dc), turn

Row 2 :

ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st across, working last dc in top of turning ch (9 dc), turn

Row 3 :

ch 1, dec, sc in each of next 5 sts, dec (7), turn

Row 4 :

ch 1, dec, sc in each of next 3 sts, dec (5). Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

— 9. Bow Center Knot (make 1 for each bow, red) :

Row 1 :

ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (7 sc), turn

Row 2-3 :

ch 1, sc in each st across (7), turn. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

— 10. Holly Leaf (make 40, green) :

Info :

You will need 5 leaves for each of the 8 holly clusters. The picots form the pointed tips along both edges.

Round 1 :

ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, picot, dc in next ch, picot, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch (7 sts and 2 picots), 3 sc in last ch, rotate to work along the other side of the foundation ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, picot, dc in next ch, picot, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch (7 sts and 2 picots), sl st in the tip ch. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

— 11. Berry (make 48, red) :

Round 1 :

MR, 6 sc in ring (6)

Round 2 :

inc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

sc in each st around (12)

Round 4 :

dec 6 times (6). Stuff with a small pinch of fiberfill, fasten off, and close the opening with the tail. Leave a tail for sewing.

— 12. Little White Flower (make 16, white) :

Round 1 :

MR, *ch 3, sl st in ring; repeat from * 4 more times (5 petals), pull the ring tight and fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in all ends, then wet block each doily and pin it flat so it measures about 6.5 in (16.5 cm) across, placing one pin in every Round 9 shell. Let the doilies dry completely before attaching any pieces.
  • Sew the muzzle onto the lower half of each head. Then sew the nose at the top center of the muzzle, over Round 2 and Round 3 of the muzzle. Stitch the nose all the way around so it stays puffy and secure.
  • Sew a black bead on each side of the nose, between Round 4 and Round 5 of the head, about 5 stitches apart. Sew an ear at each side of the head at Round 5, tilted slightly outward. Stitch each antler to the top of the head at Round 6 and Round 7, about 4 stitches either side of center, and tack the beam down along its whole length.
  • Center each finished face on a doily, with the head sitting on Rounds 3 to 8 and the muzzle toward the bottom. Stitch around the head edge using cream thread so the stitches disappear into the mesh.
  • Lay the four doilies in a straight row, overlapping the scalloped edges by 2 shells. Whipstitch 4 shells together at each join from the back, keeping the stitches loose so the runner stays flexible.
  • For each bow, pinch the center of the two loops together, lay the tails behind them in a V, and wrap the center knot tightly around everything. Sew the knot ends together at the back. Center a bow over each of the three doily joins and one at each end of the runner, then sew through the knot and into the doilies.
  • Fan five leaves together with the bases touching and sew them into a cluster. Sew one cluster to each side of every doily, on the shells just beside the reindeer ears. Sew 6 berries onto each cluster in two groups of three, with one group near the leaf tips and one near the base. Finish by sewing 2 flowers onto each cluster, tucked between the leaves.

Important Notes

  • 💡Make a small test doily through Round 4 before committing to the whole set, and check that it measures about 3.5 in (9 cm) across so your gauge matches the face pieces.
  • 💡Crochet all four of each piece in one sitting, such as all four heads, then all four muzzles. It keeps the colors consistent and the pieces match better.
  • 💡Keep the stitches in the nose and berry firm and slightly tight so the fiberfill can’t peek through the stitches.
  • 💡Use the beads only if the runner stays out of reach of small children, otherwise embroider the eyes with black thread in a small French knot.
  • 💡Cotton holds its shape beautifully, but block the finished runner lightly under a damp towel so the shells lie flat and the joins relax.
  • 💡Leave long tails on every add-on piece. You’ll use them to sew the pieces on neatly, and it saves you from threading extra yarn.

When the last bow is stitched on and you lay the whole runner down the table, give yourself a moment. Four little reindeer looking up at you, red noses glowing, holly tucked around them like a tiny forest. That’s a lot of love packed into cotton. Pour something warm, put on your favorite carols and let the candlelight flicker across your work 🧶 Share it with friends, hand it down someday, or leave it out all winter long. Happy stitching, and merry everything! ✨

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FAQs

Can I use a different yarn weight for this reindeer runner?

You can, but the pattern was designed around DK-weight cotton and a hook of about 3.5 mm. Worsted weight makes each doily noticeably bigger, so the runner gets wider and longer, and the reindeer faces end up chunkier. Make the doily through Round 4 as a test swatch and compare it to 3.5 in (9 cm) before you decide.

How do I make the runner longer or shorter?

Each doily with its face and bow adds about 5.5 in (14 cm) to the length. For a longer runner, make another doily, face and bow, and overlap it by 2 shells. For a shorter one, make three doilies, which gives you a runner of roughly 17 in (43 cm).

Do I have to sew the doilies together, or can I join as I go?

Sewing is the better choice here. It lets you block each doily separately and place the faces and holly exactly where you want them before everything gets joined. Whipstitch from the back using cream thread for an invisible join.

How do I keep the antlers from flopping over?

Sew down the entire length of the beam, not just the base, and give the antlers a light mist of fabric stiffener before attaching them. Don’t skip the stiffener step if your cotton is very soft, because the slip stitch chain has almost no structure of its own.

Can I wash this table runner?

Hand wash gently in cool water with a mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and lay it flat to dry with the shells pinned. Remove the beads first or replace them with embroidered eyes if you plan to wash it often.

Is this pattern okay for someone who has only made basic doilies?

The stitches are simple, but there are a lot of separate pieces to make and assemble, which is why it is rated advanced. If you’re comfortable with magic rings, dc mesh rounds and sewing small pieces, you’ll be fine. Start with one doily and one face to see how you like the process.