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Crochet Green Fan Motif Filet Table Runner Pattern

Crochet Green Fan Motif Filet Table Runner Pattern
4.3★Rating
10-12 HoursTime Needed
3.2KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Stylish Touch

An elegant detail to elevate any look, combining traditional techniques with contemporary design sensibilities.

About This Crochet Green Fan Motif Filet Table Runner Pattern

Crochet Green Fan Motif Filet Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Lay it down the center of a dining table, a sideboard, or a wide hallway console, or wrap it up as a housewarming gift for someone who loves green and a handmade touch.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Green Fan Motif Filet Table Runner Pattern

I love that this runner looks complicated but is secretly made of very simple pieces. No tricky stitches, no color changes, no ends to weave in every other row. The mesh is forgiving too: if one space comes out a little wobbly, blocking evens it right out. And honestly, the first time a guest picked up the edge of mine and asked where I bought it, I grinned for the rest of the day.

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Switch Things Up

The first time I made a filet runner I was convinced the grid would be the boring part. It turned out to be my favorite. There’s something soothing about a row that you can almost do with your eyes closed: dc, ch 1, skip, dc, over and over, with a podcast humming in the background. By the second panel my hands knew the rhythm better than my head did.

The pieces you sew on are where I play. I like to lay everything out on the mesh before I touch a needle, then walk away for ten minutes and come back with fresh eyes. Nine times out of ten I nudge a leaf by a stitch or two. That tiny adjustment is the difference between a motif that looks planted and one that looks slapped on.

If you want to change it up, try a deep forest green with a slightly lighter shade for the lattice strands, or make the whole thing in warm ivory for a wedding table. I once made a short version with just a single panel as a bread basket liner, and it was gone from my shelf within a week because my sister claimed it.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ The mesh rows can quietly gain or lose a space if you work the last dc into the wrong place, so always put it in the 3rd ch of the turning ch and check for 32 dc and 31 spaces.✗ If you skip only one stitch after the turning ch 4 instead of two, the edge pulls in and the panels turn wavy, so skip the first 2 sts every single row.✗ Chaining the diagonal lattice strands too tightly makes the mesh pucker between the anchor points, so chain loosely and keep the panel pinned flat while you attach each strand.✗ Forgetting to work the leaves in the back loop only leaves them smooth and flat instead of ridged, so check that every sc row on the leaf is worked blo.✗ In Border Round 2, skipping 2 or 4 sc instead of exactly 3 before and after a shell makes the shells drift, so the corner shells won’t land on the corner centers; keep stitch markers in those corner sc.✗ Sewing the fan down along its entire petal row flattens the petals and loses the raised look, so only tack it at Row 1, the sides of Rows 4 and 8, and the dips between petals.

Crochet Green Fan Motif Filet Table Runner Pattern

Imagine a long, leafy-green runner stretching down your table, with three open panels lined up like little garden windows. This pattern has you build a crisp filet grid first, then crochet the pieces that decorate it on their own and sew them on, so the project never feels overwhelming. The rhythm is calm and repetitive in the best way, and the finished piece looks far fancier than it feels to make. Grab some fine cotton thread and a cozy spot, and let’s get stitching.

Intermediate 10-12 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Green Fan Motif Filet Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 110-130 g of fine cotton thread (roughly lace to light fingering weight, around size 5) in a bright grass green, used for the whole runner: mesh, border, fans, stems, leaves, and lattice strands
  • 02
    A few extra meters of the same green thread, kept aside, for sewing the fans, stems, and leaves onto the mesh

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Steel crochet hook, approximately 2 mm (about US 14 steel or B-1 range), adjusted to your tension
  • 02
    Blunt tapestry needle for weaving in ends and sewing on the motifs
  • 03
    Sharp small scissors
  • 04
    At least 8 stitch markers, 4 of them for the border corners
  • 05
    Plenty of rustproof T-pins or straight pins for blocking
  • 06
    Blocking mats or a foam board
  • 07
    Measuring tape
  • 08
    Spray bottle or a shallow basin for wet blocking

Progress Tracker

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— 1. Mesh Base :

Info :

The mesh base measures roughly 6 in (15.5 cm) wide and 18 in (46 cm) long, and about 8.5 x 20 in (21.5 x 51 cm) with the scalloped border, depending on your thread and tension. To make it wider, add 8 ch to the foundation for every 4 extra mesh spaces (ch 73 gives 35 spaces), work 4 extra repeats of (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) in every mesh row, work 8 more sc along the top and bottom in Border Round 1, and add one extra shell repeat along the top and bottom in Round 2. To make it longer, work Rows 31-59 once more before the final solid row, skip the single gap sc on each side in Border Round 1 and work sc2tog over the 2 row ends nearest the middle instead, and work the side repeat 28 times in Round 2.

Info :

Hold the runner with the foundation edge at the top. Rows 2-29, 31-58, and 60-87 are the mesh rows, and Rows 1, 30, 59, and 88 are solid dc rows that frame each panel.

Row 1 :

ch 65. Dc in 4th ch from hook (the 3 skipped ch count as the first dc) and in each ch across (63 dc).

Row 2-29 :

ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), turn. Skip first 2 sts, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 29 times, ch 1, skip next st, dc in last st, working it in the 3rd ch of the turning ch from the row below (32 dc, 31 ch-1 spaces).

Row 30 :

ch 3 (counts as dc), turn. Dc in each dc and in each ch-1 space across, working the last dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch (63 dc).

Row 31-58 :

ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), turn. Skip first 2 sts, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 29 times, ch 1, skip next st, dc in last st, working it in the 3rd ch of the turning ch from the row below (32 dc, 31 ch-1 spaces).

Row 59 :

ch 3 (counts as dc), turn. Dc in each dc and in each ch-1 space across, working the last dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch (63 dc).

Row 60-87 :

ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), turn. Skip first 2 sts, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 29 times, ch 1, skip next st, dc in last st, working it in the 3rd ch of the turning ch from the row below (32 dc, 31 ch-1 spaces).

Row 88 :

ch 3 (counts as dc), turn. Dc in each dc and in each ch-1 space across, working the last dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch (63 dc). Do not fasten off; continue to the border.

— 2. Scalloped Border :

Info :

Place a stitch marker in the center sc of each corner as you work Round 1. They will guide you through Rounds 2 and 3. Along the foundation edge, the 3 ch at each end count as one corner st, so you will work 1 sc in each of the 61 foundation ch between them.

Round 1 :

Hold the runner with the foundation edge at the top and join thread in the top right corner. ch 1, 3 sc in the corner st. Sc in each of the next 61 sts across the top, 3 sc in the corner. Down the left side: 2 sc in the end of each of Rows 2-44, 1 sc in the gap between Row 44 and Row 45, then 2 sc in the end of each of Rows 45-87 (173 sc). 3 sc in the bottom corner, sc in each of the 61 sts across Row 88, 3 sc in the corner. Up the right side: 2 sc in the end of each of Rows 87-45, 1 sc in the gap, 2 sc in the end of each of Rows 44-2 (173 sc). Join with sl st to the first sc (480 sc).

Round 2 :

Sl st in next sc (the center of the corner). ch 3 (counts as dc), 8 dc in same sc (9-dc corner shell). Across the top: (skip 3 sc, sc in next sc, skip 3 sc, 7 dc in next sc) 7 times, skip 3 sc, sc in next sc, skip 3 sc, 9 dc in the corner center sc. Down the left side: (skip 3 sc, sc in next sc, skip 3 sc, 7 dc in next sc) 21 times, skip 3 sc, sc in next sc, skip 3 sc, 9 dc in the corner center sc. Across the bottom: repeat the top instructions, ending with 9 dc in the corner center sc. Up the right side: (skip 3 sc, sc in next sc, skip 3 sc, 7 dc in next sc) 21 times, skip 3 sc, sc in next sc, skip 3 sc. Join with sl st to the top of beginning ch 3 (60 shells, 60 sc).

Round 3 :

ch 1, sc in top of beginning ch 3, (ch 2, sc in next dc) 8 times, sl st in next sc. Along each edge: (sc in first dc of the 7-dc shell, (ch 2, sc in next dc) 6 times, sl st in next sc) for every shell, and at each remaining corner work sc in the first dc of the 9-dc shell, (ch 2, sc in next dc) 8 times, sl st in next sc. Continue around all 60 shells (7 along the top, 21 down the left, 7 along the bottom, 21 up the right), then join with sl st to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in the end.

— 3. Fan Motif (make 3) :

Info :

Each fan is worked flat in rows and ends up about 5 in (12.5 cm) across, with five rounded petals along the top. Leave a long tail at the end for sewing.

Row 1 :

ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook (5).

Row 2 :

ch 1, turn. 2 sc in each sc (10).

Row 3 :

ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc in each st across (10).

Row 4 :

ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. (Hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st) 5 times (15).

Row 5 :

ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc in each st across (15).

Row 6 :

ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. (Hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st) 5 times (20).

Row 7 :

ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc in each st across (20).

Row 8 :

ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. (Hdc in each of next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st) 5 times (25).

Row 9 :

ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc in each st across (25).

Row 10 :

ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. (Hdc in each of next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st) 5 times (30).

Row 11 :

ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn. Hdc in each st across (30).

Row 12 :

ch 1, turn. (Sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) 5 times (35).

Row 13 :

ch 1, turn. (Sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, 3 dc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st) 5 times (45). Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

— 4. Center Stem (make 3) :

Info :

The stem is a short ridged strip, about 2 in (5 cm) long, that sits between the fan and the leaves.

Row 1 :

ch 21, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (20).

Row 2-3 :

ch 1, turn. Sc blo in each st across (20). Fasten off after Row 3, leaving a long tail.

— 5. Leaves (make 6) :

Info :

Each leaf is worked flat from one pointed end to the other and is symmetrical, so there is no need to make mirrored versions. Working every row in the back loop only gives the ridged look. Each leaf is about 3.5 in (9 cm) long and 1 in (2.5 cm) wide at its widest.

Row 1 :

ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 2 ch (3).

Row 2 :

ch 1, turn. Sc blo in each st (3).

Row 3 :

ch 1, turn. 2 sc blo in first st, sc blo in next st, 2 sc blo in last st (5).

Row 4-5 :

ch 1, turn. Sc blo in each st (5).

Row 6 :

ch 1, turn. 2 sc blo in first st, sc blo in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc blo in last st (7).

Row 7-8 :

ch 1, turn. Sc blo in each st (7).

Row 9 :

ch 1, turn. 2 sc blo in first st, sc blo in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc blo in last st (9).

Row 10-25 :

ch 1, turn. Sc blo in each st (9).

Row 26 :

ch 1, turn. Sc2tog blo, sc blo in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog blo (7).

Row 27-28 :

ch 1, turn. Sc blo in each st (7).

Row 29 :

ch 1, turn. Sc2tog blo, sc blo in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog blo (5).

Row 30-31 :

ch 1, turn. Sc blo in each st (5).

Row 32 :

ch 1, turn. Sc2tog blo, sc blo in next st, sc2tog blo (3).

Row 33 :

ch 1, turn. Sc2tog blo, sc blo in next st (2).

Row 34 :

ch 1, turn. Sc2tog blo (1). Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

— 6. Diagonal Lattice (make 1 per panel) :

Info :

Work the lattice strands before sewing on any motifs. Count dc from the left edge of the panel (there are 32 across) and mesh rows up from the bar below the panel, with the foundation edge of the runner at the top. Chain loosely and keep the panel flat while you anchor each strand so the mesh doesn’t pucker. Repeat in all three panels.

Left Group - Rising Right :

Join thread with a sl st in dc 2 of mesh row 4, ch 18 loosely, sl st in dc 8 of mesh row 10. Fasten off. Repeat starting in dc 4, 6, and 8 of mesh row 4, each ending 6 dc to the right in mesh row 10 (4 strands).

Left Group - Rising Left :

Join thread with a sl st in dc 8 of mesh row 4, ch 18 loosely, sl st in dc 2 of mesh row 10. Fasten off. Repeat starting in dc 10, 12, and 14 of mesh row 4, each ending 6 dc to the left in mesh row 10 (4 strands).

Right Group - Rising Right :

Join thread with a sl st in dc 19 of mesh row 4, ch 18 loosely, sl st in dc 25 of mesh row 10. Fasten off. Repeat starting in dc 21, 23, and 25 of mesh row 4, each ending 6 dc to the right in mesh row 10 (4 strands).

Right Group - Rising Left :

Join thread with a sl st in dc 25 of mesh row 4, ch 18 loosely, sl st in dc 19 of mesh row 10. Fasten off. Repeat starting in dc 27, 29, and 31 of mesh row 4, each ending 6 dc to the left in mesh row 10 (4 strands).

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in all ends on the mesh and border, then wet block the runner to about 8.5 x 20 in (21.5 x 51 cm), placing one pin at the tip of every scallop and at each corner so the 3-round border lies flat. Let it dry completely before adding anything.
  • Work the diagonal lattice strands in each panel as written in Section 6, then steam block the fans, stems, and leaves flat so the petals and ridges relax.
  • Pin a stem down the middle of each panel, between dc 16 and dc 17, with its top edge at mesh row 16 and its bottom edge at mesh row 7 (rows counted up from the bar below the panel). Whip stitch both long edges to the dc posts at every second mesh row.
  • Rest the straight Row 1 edge of a fan directly above the stem at mesh row 17, centered between dc 16 and dc 17, with the petals facing the top of the panel so they reach about mesh row 26. Whip stitch along Row 1, tack the fan at the sides of Rows 4 and 8, and tack in the 4 dips between petals, leaving the rounded petal tops free to stand up.
  • For the left leaf, place one pointed end at the bottom of the stem on mesh row 7, beside dc 16, and the other end at dc 6 of mesh row 18. Place the right leaf the same way, starting beside dc 17 and ending at dc 27 of mesh row 18. Sew along both long edges at every third ridge so the leaves stay gently raised.
  • Repeat for all three panels, weave in any remaining tails on the back, and give the whole runner a final light steam press under a damp cloth.

Important Notes

  • 💡Do a quick tension check before you start: 10 mesh spaces should measure about 2 in (5 cm) wide. If yours is bigger or smaller, go down or up a hook size.
  • 💡Count after every solid bar row: each mesh row should have exactly 32 dc and 31 ch-1 spaces, and each solid row 63 dc.
  • 💡Keep your ch 1 spaces relaxed. Tight chains pull the mesh into rectangles and make the lattice strands look uneven.
  • 💡Mark the four corner centers in Border Round 1 with stitch markers. Rounds 2 and 3 count from those points.
  • 💡Cotton thread blocks beautifully. Wet blocking sets the squares of the mesh and flattens the scallops, so don’t skip it.
  • 💡Leave tails of about 20 in (50 cm) on the fans, stems, and leaves, and use them to sew the pieces on so you don’t need extra joins.
  • 💡A light spritz of sugar starch or fabric stiffener after blocking will help the runner hold its shape on the table, but it is completely optional.

Thank you for stitching along with me! 🧶 By the time you reach that last scallop, you’ll have a piece that looks like it came from a little boutique shelf, and you made every single stitch yourself. Take a quick photo, smooth it out on the table, and step back to admire it for a minute. Then make another in a different shade, because trust me, one is never enough. Happy crocheting, friend! ✨

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FAQs

Can I use a thicker yarn or thread for this runner?

You can, but the pattern was designed around fine cotton thread and a small hook. A DK weight yarn with a 3.5 mm hook makes each mesh space noticeably bigger, so the runner can end up around 1.7 times wider and longer, and the fans and leaves grow too. The border math is tied to 31 spaces per row, so keep the stitch counts and accept the larger size, or make a swatch first.

Why are the fans and leaves sewn on instead of worked into the mesh?

Making them separately lets them sit raised above the grid, and it keeps the mesh rows simple and fast. You can also block each piece flat, arrange them, and adjust them by a stitch or two before sewing.

How do I make the runner longer?

Repeat Rows 31-59 once more before the final solid row to add a fourth panel. In Border Round 1, skip the single gap sc on each side and work sc2tog over the 2 row ends nearest the middle, then work the side repeat 28 times in Round 2 so the shells land on the corners.

Do I really need to block this pattern?

Yes. The mesh squares and the shell scallops only open up and lie flat after wet blocking. Pin the runner to about 8.5 x 20 in (21.5 x 51 cm), putting a pin at every scallop tip, and let it dry fully.

Is this good for someone who has only made scarves and granny squares?

It’s an intermediate pattern, but the stitches are all basic. The parts that need attention are keeping the mesh count correct, following the corner math in the border, and placing the sewn-on pieces carefully. If you’ve done filet mesh once before, you’ll be fine.

How much thread should I buy?

Plan on about 110-130 g of fine cotton thread. If your tension is loose or you tend to chain generously, buy a little extra so you don’t run short on the border.