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Crochet Gray and White Square Bedspread Pattern

Crochet Gray and White Square Bedspread Pattern
4.7★Rating
10-15 HoursTime Needed
3.5KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Crochet Gray and White Square Bedspread Pattern

Crochet Gray and White Square Bedspread Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Makes a thoughtful housewarming or wedding gift for anyone who loves a calm, tailored bedroom, and it looks just as good folded across the foot of the bed or draped over a sofa.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Gray and White Square Bedspread Pattern

I love that every square is its own tiny finished project, so I never feel stuck in the middle of a giant blanket. My favorite moment is when the white mesh round closes up around the gray center and the little windows suddenly frame themselves. And threading the gray bars through the mesh at the end feels like a secret detail that makes people lean in for a closer look.

Crochet Gray and White Square Bedspread Pattern step 1 Crochet Gray and White Square Bedspread Pattern step 2 Crochet Gray and White Square Bedspread Pattern step 3 Crochet Gray and White Square Bedspread Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

The first time I stitched one of these squares I finished it in a single evening and honestly thought it would end up as a coaster. Then I laid six of them side by side, the white lattice showed up like magic, and I was hooked.

Here's my best tip: make three squares before you buy all the yarn. Block them, press them against each other, and see whether you like the gray against the white. I tried a charcoal gray once and the mesh read a lot bolder, which looked gorgeous but wasn't what I wanted for a calm bedroom.

I also keep a tote of finished squares by the sofa and join a row every Sunday evening with a podcast on. Watching the stack grow keeps me going far more than staring at one giant blanket ever could.

If you want a color twist, try dusty blue centers with cream mesh, or sage with white. The pattern doesn't care, and the math stays exactly the same. Just pick accent bar yarn that sits between your two main shades so it whispers instead of shouts.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ In Round 2 it's easy to forget the ch1 between the first and last dc of each side, which closes the little windows in the gray center, so check that every side has one open space before you start Round 3.✗ When you skip stitches in the white mesh rounds, one miscount makes the windows lean sideways, so confirm you have 11 dc between corner spaces before Round 4 and 13 stitches between corner spaces before Round 5.✗ Forgetting that the last dc of each side in Round 5 goes into the top of the starting ch3 from Round 4 leaves the final side one stitch short and pinches the corner.✗ Tight whipstitches pull the white lattice into puckers where squares meet, so sew loosely through the back loops only and match corner to corner before you stitch each seam.✗ The scallop border needs a stitch count that divides evenly by 6, so if your squares are a different number or you miss a seam sc, you'll end up with a half shell at a corner, and recounting each side against the totals in the border round fixes it.✗ Pulling the gray accent bar yarn too tight makes the white mesh buckle and curve inward, so leave the strand relaxed and let the squares lie flat on a table while you weave.

Crochet Gray and White Square Bedspread Pattern

Picture a bed dressed in soft gray squares edged with crisp white lace, and you've got the feel of this coverlet. Each square pairs a solid gray heart with an airy white mesh frame, so the finished piece has weight where you want it and a little breathing room everywhere else. You'll work one motif at a time, which makes the project easy to pick up and set down. Grab your favorite cotton, put on something good to listen to, and settle in for a project that gets a little more beautiful with every square you finish.

Intermediate 10-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Gray and White Square Bedspread Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 1300 g of DK weight cotton yarn in medium heather gray for the square centers, gray borders, accent bars, and sham panels
  • 02
    Approximately 1100 g of DK weight cotton yarn in bright white for the mesh frames, outer edge rounds, joining, and scalloped border

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5 mm crochet hook (approximately, adjust to get a soft drape)
  • 02
    Tapestry needle for weaving in ends, accent bars, and joining squares
  • 03
    Sharp scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers to mark the first corner of each round
  • 05
    Blocking mats and rustproof pins for shaping squares and the finished coverlet
  • 06
    Measuring tape
  • 07
    Sewing pins or clips for holding squares in place while you join them
  • 08
    Two pillow inserts, each approximately 36 cm (14 in) square, for the shams

Progress Tracker

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— 1. Gray Center Block :

Info :

Each finished square measures about 18 cm (7 in) across using DK cotton and a 3.5 mm hook. The full bedspread uses 10 squares across and 12 down (120 squares) for roughly 180 x 216 cm (71 x 85 in). You'll also make 8 extra squares for the two pillow shams, so 128 squares in total. To make the coverlet wider or longer, add whole squares: each extra column adds about 18 cm (7 in) of width and each extra row adds about 18 cm (7 in) of length. Keep your total of columns plus rows at 22, 25, 28 and so on so the border stitch count still divides evenly by 6. Gray corners are worked as 2dc, ch2, 2dc and white corners are worked as dc, ch2, dc.

Round 1 :

With gray, make an MR. ch3 (counts as first dc), 2dc in the ring, ch2, [3dc, ch2] x3 in the ring. Pull the ring closed and sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 (12 dc, four ch2 sps).

Round 2 :

sl st in each of the next 2 dc, then sl st into the first ch2 sp. ch3 (counts as first dc), dc, ch2, 2dc in the same sp for the first corner. [dc in next dc, ch1, skip 1 dc, dc in next dc, 2dc, ch2, 2dc in next ch2 sp] x3. dc in next dc, ch1, skip 1 dc, dc in next dc. sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 (24 dc, four ch1 sps, four ch2 sps).

Round 3 :

sl st in the next dc and into the ch2 sp. ch3 (counts as first dc), dc, ch2, 2dc in the same sp. [dc in each of the next 7 sts (the ch1 sp counts as a st), 2dc, ch2, 2dc in next ch2 sp] x3. dc in each of the next 7 sts. sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 (44 dc, four ch2 sps). Fasten off gray.

— 2. White Mesh Frame :

Round 4 :

Join white with a sl st in any ch2 sp. ch3 (counts as first dc), ch2, dc in the same sp. [dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc, dc in next dc) x5, dc, ch2, dc in next ch2 sp] x3. dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc, dc in next dc) x5. sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 (32 dc, 20 ch1 sps, four ch2 sps). Each side now has 13 sts between corner sps.

Round 5 :

sl st into the first ch2 sp. ch3 (counts as first dc), ch2, dc in the same sp. [dc in next 2 dc, (ch1, skip the ch1 sp, dc in next dc) x5, dc in next dc, dc, ch2, dc in next ch2 sp] x3. dc in next 2 dc, (ch1, skip the ch1 sp, dc in next dc) x5, dc in the top of the Round 4 beginning ch3. sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 (40 dc, 20 ch1 sps, four ch2 sps). Each side now has 15 sts between corner sps. Fasten off white.

— 3. Gray Border :

Round 6 :

Join gray with a sl st in any ch2 sp. ch3 (counts as first dc), dc, ch2, 2dc in the same sp. [dc in each of the next 15 sts (every dc and every ch1 sp counts as a st), 2dc, ch2, 2dc in next ch2 sp] x3. dc in each of the next 15 sts. sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 (76 dc, four ch2 sps).

Round 7 :

sl st in the next dc and into the ch2 sp. ch3 (counts as first dc), dc, ch2, 2dc in the same sp. [dc in each of the next 19 dc, 2dc, ch2, 2dc in next ch2 sp] x3. dc in each of the next 19 dc. sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 (92 dc, four ch2 sps). Fasten off gray.

— 4. White Edge Round :

Round 8 :

Join white with a sl st in any ch2 sp. ch3 (counts as first dc), ch2, dc in the same sp. [dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc, dc in next dc) x11, dc, ch2, dc in next ch2 sp] x3. dc in next dc, (ch1, skip 1 dc, dc in next dc) x11. sl st to the top of the beginning ch3 (56 dc, 44 ch1 sps, four ch2 sps). Each side now has 25 sts from corner dc to corner dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

— 5. Gray Accent Bars :

Info :

Make these on every square before joining. Cut a 50 cm (20 in) length of gray yarn and thread it on a tapestry needle. The bars sit in the first white mesh frame, running straight across the top and bottom sides of each square.

Top Bar :

Start at the outer edge of Round 5 on any one side, which becomes the top. Weave the needle over each dc and under each ch1 sp across all 15 sts between the corner sps, keeping the strand relaxed. Leave a 5 cm (2 in) tail at each end and tie the tails together on the wrong side.

Bottom Bar :

Repeat the same weaving along Round 5 on the side directly opposite the top bar, again across all 15 sts between the corner sps. Tie off the tails and weave them into the gray rounds.

— 6. Scalloped Border :

Info :

Work this after all 120 squares are joined into one 10 by 12 rectangle. Every square edge contributes 25 sc and every seam contributes 1 sc, so the numbers below work out exactly. Because the corner starts the count, the first shell sits just past the corner, so the scallops at each corner may look slightly off center, which is perfectly normal.

Round 1 :

Join white with a sl st in the ch2 sp at any outer corner of the coverlet. ch1, 3sc in the same corner sp. Working around, sc in each dc and each ch1 sp along every square edge, sc once in each seam where two squares meet, and 3sc in each of the other three outer corner ch2 sps. Each short side has 259 sc and each long side has 311 sc, not counting the 3sc corners. sl st to the first sc (1,152 sc).

Round 2 :

ch1, then starting in the first sc of Round 1, [sc in next sc, skip 2 sc, 5dc in next sc, skip 2 sc] x192. sl st to the first sc (192 shells). Fasten off and weave in ends.

— 7. Pillow Shams (Make 2) :

Info :

Each sham front is 2 squares across by 2 squares down, joined as described in the assembly steps, which gives a panel about 36 cm (14 in) square. The back panel is made the same way but has no scalloped border.

Round 1 :

Join white with a sl st in the ch2 sp at any outer corner of the front panel. ch1, 3sc in the same corner sp. sc in each dc and each ch1 sp along every square edge, sc once in the seam between the two squares on each side, and 3sc in each of the other three outer corner ch2 sps. Each side has 51 sc, not counting the 3sc corners. sl st to the first sc (216 sc).

Round 2 :

ch1, then starting in the first sc of Round 1, [sc in next sc, skip 2 sc, 5dc in next sc, skip 2 sc] x36. sl st to the first sc (36 shells). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in all ends on the wrong side of every square, then wet block each one flat and pin it to 18 cm (7 in) at the four corners and at the ch2 sps so the mesh lies square and the gray accent bars stay straight.
  • Lay out the squares in 10 columns across and 12 rows down. With white yarn, hold two squares with right sides facing and whipstitch through the back loops only, from one corner dc across all 23 sts between to the other corner dc (25 sts per seam).
  • Join the squares into 12 horizontal strips of 10 squares each, then join the strips together the same way, matching the corner dc of each square so the white lattice lines up. At the points where four corners meet, stitch across both seams in an X to close the gap.
  • Work Round 1 of the scalloped border around the whole rectangle, starting at any outer corner. Then work Round 2, checking that you land on 192 shells so the stitch count carries around exactly.
  • Wet block the finished coverlet on a clean floor or large blocking mats to about 180 x 216 cm (71 x 85 in), pinning the center of every scallop so the shells open into smooth, even curves, and leave it to dry completely.
  • For each sham, join 2 by 2 squares for the front and again for the back, and work the scalloped border on the front only. Place the back against the front with wrong sides together, pin the three sides, and whipstitch through the back panel's outer dc and the sc stitches of Round 1 on the front.
  • Slide the pillow insert in through the open side, then close the fourth side with the same whipstitch, keeping stitches even so the seam disappears under the first row of shells.

Important Notes

  • 💡Make the first three squares and block them before buying the full amount of yarn, so you can check the gray against the white and confirm your finished size is close to 18 cm (7 in).
  • 💡Use a stitch marker in the first corner sp of every round so you always know where to start the next one, especially in the gray rounds where all corners look alike.
  • 💡Buy all the yarn for each color from the same dye lot, because slight shade changes show clearly across 128 squares and make a patchwork effect in the finished coverlet.
  • 💡Make the gray accent bars before joining, since it's much easier to weave a strand across one flat square than through a joined sheet of mesh.
  • 💡The time estimate above is a guide for the finishing steps and single-square work, so the full coverlet is best treated as a long-term project that you finish a row or two at a time.
  • 💡Keep finished squares stacked flat in a tote, because the open white mesh can snag when squares are bundled together or tossed loose into a bag.
  • 💡If your squares come out slightly bigger or smaller than 18 cm (7 in), just adjust the hook size up or down; the border stitch counts only depend on the number of squares, not on their exact size.

You've got everything you need to start your very first square, and honestly the hardest part will be choosing a cozy corner to crochet in. Take it one block at a time, enjoy the easy rhythm of the mesh rounds, and watch your pile of squares slowly turn into a bedspread you'll be proud to spread across the bed. Give it to someone you love or keep it all for yourself, either way this one is going to make a room feel finished. Happy stitching! 🧶✨

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FAQs

Can I use a different yarn weight instead of DK cotton?

You can, but the finished size will change a lot. Worsted weight with a 4.5 mm hook makes each square closer to 24 cm (9.5 in), so you would need fewer squares. Make one square first, measure it, and adjust the number of columns and rows, keeping columns plus rows at 22, 25, 28 and so on so the scallop border still divides by 6.

How do I make the bedspread bigger or smaller?

Add or remove whole squares. Each column or row changes the size by about 18 cm (7 in). The border uses 52 sc for every column and row plus 8 sc more, so the stitch count stays divisible by 6 only when columns plus rows equals 22, 25, 28 and so on. For example, 9 columns by 10 rows (19) will not work, but 9 by 13 (22) will.

Do I have to make the gray accent bars?

No, the squares work fine without them. They are what give the mesh its framed look, though. They take only a couple of minutes per square, and weaving them in before joining keeps the squares flat and easy to hold.

What is the best way to join the squares so the white lattice looks neat?

Whipstitch with white yarn through the back loops only, matching each corner dc and then the 23 sts between. Keep the stitches loose enough to match the stretch of the mesh. Joining into strips of 10 first, then joining the strips, keeps the corners lined up much better than sewing squares in random order.

Why does my scallop border not fit evenly?

Check that every side of each square has 25 sts from corner dc to corner dc, and that you worked one sc in each seam and three sc in each outer corner space. The totals should be 259 on each short side, 311 on each long side, plus 12 corner sc, for 1,152 overall. If you are off, find the square or seam you missed before starting the shells.

Can I make just the pillow shams without the whole bedspread?

Yes. Each sham needs 8 squares in total, 4 for the front and 4 for the back, plus a pillow insert about 36 cm (14 in) square. Work the scalloped border on the front panel only, then sew the back panel on three sides, add the pillow, and close the last side.