Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.
A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.
A comforting piece for home or gifts that brings handmade warmth to everyday moments and special occasions.
Make it for a wedding gift or a guest room refresh, then finish a matching pair of shams so the whole bed looks pulled together. It's the kind of heirloom piece people keep for years.
I love how forgiving the mesh is. After the first few rows you can crochet it while chatting or watching a show, and the other pieces become little breaks from the routine. I also love that you can stop whenever you like and still have something finished, like a sham or a single flower. The square is my favorite warm-up for checking tension. By the time I reached the edging, I was a little sad to be almost done.
The first time I stitched a filet bedspread I was so sure I'd get bored by row twenty. I didn't. Something about those little open squares clicked into a steady rhythm, and within a week I was reaching for the hook the second I sat down with my tea.
Here's the tip I wish someone had handed me: tie a tiny scrap of contrasting thread into the edge every twenty-five rows. It costs nothing, and when you're laying out the diamond lattice later, you can measure down the side in seconds instead of recounting rows.
The flowers go on last, and that's my favorite part. Until then the spread looks like a lovely lacy blanket. Then you set the first big bloom on a crossing, step back, and the whole thing suddenly makes sense. I may have called my sister in just to look at it.
If you want to play with color, try a deep sage for the mesh and a creamy ivory for the flowers. I stayed with one soft caramel shade, which gives a quiet tone-on-tone look that sits happily with almost any bedding.
Picture a bedroom that feels like a quiet hug from a favorite relative's guest room. This filet mesh bedspread brings vintage romance to your bed with simple double crochet and chain spaces, then rewards you with a pretty surprise at every stage: raised bands, blooms, a ruffled edge, even matching shams. You'll work it in small pieces, so progress always feels close, and there's a sweet little flower square included for trying out the blossoms before you commit.
Finished size is approximately 197 x 229 cm (78 x 90 in), with each mesh square measuring roughly 1 cm (0.4 in). The mesh is worked straight in rows, and the diamond lattice comes from the bands you sew on later. To go wider, add 2 ch to the foundation for every extra square. To go longer, add rows. Keep your additions in groups of 3 squares or 3 rows so the shell edging still fits, and add 2 shell repeats to Bedspread Round 2 for every group of 3.
Ch 397.
dc in 5th ch from hook, [ch 1, skip next ch, dc in next ch] 196 times (198 dc counting the beginning ch as a dc, 197 ch-1 sp).
Turn, ch 3 (counts as dc), [ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc] 197 times, placing the last dc in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch from Row 1, the one that counted as your first dc (198 dc, 197 ch-1 sp).
Turn, ch 3 (counts as dc), [ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc] 197 times, placing the last dc in the top of the turning ch-3 (198 dc, 197 ch-1 sp). Repeat this row until you have worked Row 249.
After Row 249, fasten off and weave in the tail. The edging is worked later, so you can block the panel first if you like.
Each band starts from one long foundation ch of 6k + 2, where k is the number of shell repeats. Every band is about 5.5 cm (2.2 in) wide, and each repeat adds roughly 3 cm (1.2 in) of length. Bedspread bands: A1 k = 55 (ch 332), about 165 cm. A2 k = 93 (ch 560), about 279 cm. A3 k = 70 (ch 422), about 211 cm. A4 k = 33 (ch 200), about 98 cm. B1 k = 38 (ch 230), about 113 cm. B2 k = 75 (ch 452), about 226 cm. B3 k = 88 (ch 530), about 263 cm. B4 k = 50 (ch 302), about 150 cm. Sham bands (make 4): k = 29 (ch 176), about 87 cm.
Ch 6k + 2, using the chain count listed above for your band.
sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (6k + 1 sc).
Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, [skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st] k times (k shells, with a sc at each end and between every shell).
Without fastening off, rotate your work 180 degrees so the unused loops of the foundation ch are along the top. Ch 1, sc in the first loop, [skip 2 loops, 5 dc in next loop, skip 2 loops, sc in next loop] k times (k shells). Fasten off, leaving a 30 cm (12 in) tail.
Each Large Flower has three layers: 8 pointed leaves, a ring of 8 rounded petals, and a puffy center ball. The finished flower is approximately 14 cm (5.5 in) across. Use the lighter sand beige thread. Make 8 leaves for every flower, which is 96 leaves in all.
Ch 14.
sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in each of next 5 ch, hdc in each of next 2 ch, sc in each of next 2 ch (12 sts). Work 3 sc in the last ch for the tip (3 sts). Now work back along the unused loops of the foundation ch: sc in each of next 2 loops, hdc in each of next 2 loops, dc in each of next 5 loops, hdc in next loop, sc in next loop, sl st in last loop (12 sts, 27 sts total). Fasten off, leaving a 15 cm (6 in) tail.
MR, ch 1, 8 sc in ring, sl st to first sc to join (8).
Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join (16).
Ch 1, [sc in next st, (hdc, dc, dc, hdc) in next st] 8 times, sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off, leaving a 30 cm (12 in) tail (8 petals, 40 sts).
MR, 6 sc in ring (6). Work in a spiral and mark the first st.
2 sc in each st around (12).
sc in each st around (12).
[sc2tog] 6 times (6). Stuff lightly with fiberfill, fasten off leaving a 20 cm (8 in) tail, thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining 6 sts, and pull closed.
Each Small Flower is approximately 6 cm (2.4 in) across, worked in the lighter sand beige thread. Make 16 for the bedspread band ends, plus 1 extra for the Flower Square.
MR, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, sl st to first sc to join (6).
Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join (12).
Ch 1, [sc in next st, (hdc, dc, dc, hdc) in next st] 6 times, sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off, leaving a 20 cm (8 in) tail (6 petals, 30 sts).
MR, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, sl st to first sc, pull the ring tight, and fasten off leaving a 15 cm (6 in) tail (6). Make 16 buds, one per flower. The extra flower for the Flower Square gets a Center Ball instead.
This little square measures approximately 11 cm (4.3 in) across. Use it as a coaster, a test swatch for your tension, or a matching sample piece. Work it in the main caramel tan.
MR, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, [3 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times, sl st to top of beginning ch-3 (12 dc, 4 ch-2 sp).
sl st in next 2 dc and into next ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, ch 1, [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1] 3 times, sl st to top of beginning ch-3 (24 dc, 4 ch-2 sp, 4 ch-1 sp).
sl st in next 2 dc and into next ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, [(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 3 times, sl st to top of beginning ch-3 (36 dc, 4 ch-2 sp, 8 ch-1 sp).
Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around, working 3 sc in each ch-2 sp, sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in the tail (56 sc).
The raised flower on top is the extra Small Flower from section 4, topped with one Center Ball from section 3. See the assembly steps for placement.
Each panel is approximately 70 x 51 cm (27.5 x 20 in) and fits a standard bed pillow with a little frill to spare. Work all 4 panels the same way. Only the 2 fronts get bands, a flower, and the shell edging.
Ch 143.
dc in 5th ch from hook, [ch 1, skip next ch, dc in next ch] 69 times (71 dc counting the beginning ch as a dc, 70 ch-1 sp).
Turn, ch 3 (counts as dc), [ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc] 70 times, placing the last dc in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch from Row 1 (71 dc, 70 ch-1 sp).
Turn, ch 3 (counts as dc), [ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc] 70 times, placing the last dc in the top of the turning ch-3 (71 dc, 70 ch-1 sp). Repeat this row until you have worked Row 55. Fasten off.
Work the edging on the bedspread and on the 2 sham fronts before sewing on any bands or flowers. The stitch counts are set so the shells fit evenly around the corners, so check each count before moving to the shell round.
With the right side facing and Row 249 along the top, join thread in the top-left corner st. Ch 1, 3 sc in the corner st, sc in each of the next 393 sts across the top, 3 sc in the last st, 2 sc in each of the 247 row ends down the side (494 sc), 3 sc in the first foundation ch, sc in each of the next 395 ch, 3 sc in the last ch, 2 sc in each of the 247 row ends up the other side (494 sc), sl st to first sc to join (1788 sc).
Ch 1, sc in same st, [skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st] 297 times, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in the tail (298 shells).
On each sham front, with the right side facing and Row 55 along the top, join thread in the top-left corner st. Ch 1, 3 sc in the corner st, sc in each of the next 139 sts across the top, 3 sc in the last st, 2 sc in each of the 53 row ends down the side (106 sc), 3 sc in the first foundation ch, sc in each of the next 141 ch, 3 sc in the last ch, 2 sc in each of the 53 row ends up the other side (106 sc), sl st to first sc to join (504 sc).
Ch 1, sc in same st, [skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st] 83 times, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in the tail (84 shells).
However you style it, this bedspread is the kind of project that grows more satisfying with every flower you add. Take it one panel at a time, enjoy the quiet rhythm of the mesh, and let the lattice come together at its own pace. When you finally spread it across your bed and step back, you'll see months of tiny stitches turned into something truly special. Thank you for crocheting along with me, and I can't wait to see your version! 🧶✨
Yes. Keep the foundation at 2 x squares + 3 ch and choose a row count where squares + rows + 1 divides evenly by 3, so the edging still fits. For example, 99 squares (ch 201) and 116 rows give a throw of about 99 x 107 cm (39 x 42 in). Use only the bands and crossings that fall inside your piece, keeping the 80 cm spacing.
You can, but this pattern was designed around fine cotton thread and a small hook. Thicker yarn makes each mesh square bigger, so the spread grows noticeably and the band layout in cm no longer lines up. Make a swatch of 20 squares and 20 rows, then recalculate your foundation chain and band lengths from your own measurements.
Block each band flat with steam before sewing, then pin it every 5 cm (2 in) along the line you've marked. Sew only through the center sc row with small whipstitches so the shells on both sides are free to lie smoothly over the mesh.
They do in this design, and that is the reason the flower sits so flat. Making the 8 leaves as separate pieces lets you angle 4 of them along the band arms, and sewing only their bases keeps the tips relaxed against the mesh.
Hand wash it gently in cool water with a mild soap, and press out the water in a towel without wringing. Lay it flat and pin it back to its blocked size so the mesh squares stay even and the shell edge keeps its points. Cotton thread dries slowly, so give it a day.
