🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

3-in-1 Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern

3-in-1 Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern
4.2★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
2.0K Made This
✂️

Advanced Level

Designed for experienced knitters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

⏱️

Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This 3-in-1 Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern

This Tyrannosaurus Oliver pattern is a detailed amigurumi project that brings a prehistoric creature to life with modern crochet techniques. Standing at 10.5 cm tall, Oliver features a movable head using a cotter pin mechanism, intricate embroidered facial features including eyes with pupils, nostrils, teeth, and eyebrows, plus decorative green crests and spots. The pattern uses a jacquard technique to create a white belly against the main body color, and includes threaded bracing assembly for posable limbs.

3-in-1 Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

As a special bonus, you'll also create a retro TV set complete with cross-stitch embroidered screen, adjustable wire antenna, and tiny button details. This charming accessory makes the perfect companion piece for your dinosaur friend!

Why You'll Love This 3-in-1 Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it challenges you to master advanced techniques like jacquard color-changing, cotter pin joint installation, and threaded bracing assembly. The attention to detail is incredible—from the embroidered facial features to the tiny decorative spots, every element adds character and charm. What really makes this pattern special is the bonus retro TV project that lets you practice cross-stitch embroidery on fabric combined with crochet. It's not just about making a toy; it's about creating a complete scene with personality and story!

3-in-1 Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress 3-in-1 Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress 3-in-1 Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories 3-in-1 Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love experimenting with color variations for this Tyrannosaurus Oliver pattern! Instead of the classic green, you could create a blue dinosaur for an aquatic prehistoric vibe, or go bold with purple and orange spots for a fantasy creature. The jacquard technique for the belly works beautifully with any color combination—try a cream belly with a rust-colored body for an earthy, natural look.

For the bonus TV set, I've found that changing the screen embroidery design completely transforms the character. Instead of a dinosaur on the screen, you could cross-stitch a heart, a flower, or even a tiny landscape. Kids especially love seeing their favorite simple shapes embroidered there!

If you want to simplify the project, you can skip the decorative green spots entirely or replace them with simple French knots for texture. I've also made versions without the crest on the head and body for a sleeker, more minimalist dinosaur design.

The embroidered facial expression is another fun element to customize. Try changing the eyebrow angle to create different personalities—raised eyebrows for a surprised look, or angled eyebrows for a more determined expression. You can even adjust the tooth count or shape for variety.

For gift-giving, I love creating themed sets by making multiple TV sets with different screen designs. It's a wonderful way to build a collection of tiny retro televisions, each one unique and special!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Forgetting to mark the beginning of rounds when working with multiple colors can lead to misaligned patterns and uneven color changes throughout the body ✗ Pulling the jacquard loose stitches too tightly on the wrong side creates puckering and distorts the shape of the white belly section ✗ Installing safety eyes before completing all embroidery work makes it difficult to achieve symmetrical facial features and proper eye pupil placement ✗ Overstuffing the head before installing the cotter pin mechanism prevents proper joint movement and can cause the neck connection to be too tight ✗ Not pre-pinning limbs before threaded bracing assembly results in uneven attachment points and an unstable stance for the finished dinosaur

3-in-1 Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern

Create your own adorable Tyrannosaurus Rex with this comprehensive crochet pattern! This charming design features Oliver, a cute toothy dinosaur that's not scary at all, complete with embroidered details, movable head joint, and decorative spots. As a bonus, you'll also learn to make a retro TV set accessory! Perfect for dinosaur lovers and collectors, this pattern combines detailed construction techniques with playful character design to bring prehistoric fun into your home.

Advanced 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for 3-in-1 Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Yarnart Jeans yarn in green color (160 m/50 gr, Sport weight, 12 wpi)
  • 02
    Alize Cotton Gold Tweed yarn in white/cream color (330 m/100 gr, Sport weight, 12 wpi)
  • 03
    Pink embroidery floss (mouline) for cheeks
  • 04
    Green embroidery floss (mouline) for crests and spots
  • 05
    Black embroidery floss (mouline) for facial details
  • 06
    White embroidery floss (mouline) for teeth and eye highlights
  • 07
    Yellow yarn for bonus TV set (Gazzal Jeans color 1125 or similar)
  • 08
    Grey embroidery floss (mouline) for TV details
  • 09
    Brown embroidery floss (mouline) for TV buttons and antenna

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 1.75 mm (for main dinosaur body)
  • 02
    Crochet hook 1.5 mm (for cheeks, crests, and spots)
  • 03
    10 mm safety eyes
  • 04
    Yarn needle (thick needle with blunt end)
  • 05
    Embroidery needle
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    2 pins or 2 stitch markers
  • 08
    Needles for cutting with beads on the end (for fixing parts before sewing)
  • 09
    Synthepus or polyester stuffing
  • 10
    Round-nose pliers
  • 11
    T-shaped cotter pin 25 x 2.0 mm
  • 12
    Metal shim/washer 3 x 20 mm
  • 13
    Metal disk 20 mm diameter
  • 14
    Canvas Aida 16 count in beige color (for TV screen)
  • 15
    Embroidery hoop
  • 16
    Floral wire 0.95 mm diameter (10 cm length)
  • 17
    Styrofoam block approximately 7.5 x 4.2 x 3 cm

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— HEAD (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

7 loops, turning, 6sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 6sc (from the back of the chain) (12l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x6 (18l)

Round 3-4 :

18sc (18l)

Round 5 :

[2sc, inc]x6 (24l)

Round 6-7 :

24sc (24l)

Round 8 :

3sc, [inc]x18, 3sc (42l)

Round 9 :

18sc, 4dc in the next loop, [dec]x4, 4dc in the next loop, 14sc (44l)

Round 10 :

19sc, [2dc in the next loop]x2, sc, 4 sl st, sc, [2dc in the next loop]x2, 15sc (48l)

Round 11-13 :

24sc, 4 sl st, 20sc (48l)

Round 14 :

18sc, [dec]x3, 4sc, [dec]x3, 14sc (42l)

Round 15 :

42sc (42l)

Round 16 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Round 17 :

[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Round 18 :

[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Info :

Insert safety eyes between rounds 7 and 8, approximately 10 stitches apart, don't fix yet

Info :

Embroider black pupil using loose stitch technique with black embroidery floss, create oval shape with two stitches

Info :

Add white highlight below eye using loose stitch with white embroidery floss, then secure safety eyes

Info :

Embroider nostrils and mouth with black embroidery floss (divided in half)

Info :

Embroider 6 teeth (3 on each side) with white embroidery floss in triangle shapes

Info :

Squeeze eyebrows to head with a few stitches, then embroider eyebrows with black floss segments approximately 0.5 cm long

Info :

Start stuffing the head with synthepus and continue crocheting

Round 19-20 :

24sc (24l)

Info :

Insert cotter pin into shim, place cotter pin between rounds 14 and 15 at bottom of head

Round 21 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 22 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Info :

Completely fill the head

Round 23 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Trim thread, pass through all loops using yarn needle, tighten and secure

— CHEEKS (Pink embroidery floss, make 2) :

Info :

Crochet cheeks with 1.5 mm hook

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring), sl st in 1st sc (6l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread leaving long end for sewing, sew cheeks to head with wrong side outward

— CREST on the head (Green embroidery floss) :

Info :

Crochet crest with 1.5 mm hook

Round 1 :

27 loops, turning, sl st (starting from 2nd loop from hook), [sl st; crochet in one loop {sl st, dc, sl st}; sl st]x8, sl st

Info :

Cut and fix thread leaving very long end for sewing, sew crest to head pre-fixing with needles for perfect symmetry

— NECK and BODY :

Round 1 (Yarn A) :

2 loops, 8sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (8l)

Round 2 :

[inc]x8 (16l)

Info :

Begin jacquard technique: crochet with Yarn A and Yarn B alternately without cutting threads to create white breast

Info :

Color changing: when crocheting last green sc, insert hook into loop, pull thread, finish sc with white thread

Round 3 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B); [3sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (20l)

Round 4 :

Only through back loops: 10sc (Yarn B); 10sc (Yarn A) (20l)

Round 5 :

[4sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B); [4sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (24l)

Info :

Insert cotter pin in middle of neck, put disk on cotter pin and wrap ends in rings with round-nosed pliers

Round 6 :

12sc (Yarn B); 6sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from 2nd loop from hook, sl st in same loop, 6sc (Yarn A) (30l)

Round 7 :

12sc (Yarn B); 9sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from 2nd loop from hook, sl st in same loop, 9sc (Yarn A) (36l)

Round 8 :

[5sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B); [5sc, inc]x4 (Yarn A) (42l)

Round 9 :

14sc (Yarn B); [6sc, inc]x2, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from 2nd loop from hook, sl st in same loop, [6sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (52l)

Round 10 :

14sc (Yarn B); [7sc, inc]x2, 6sc, [7sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (56l)

Round 11 :

14sc (Yarn B); 21sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from 2nd loop from hook, sl st in same loop, 21sc (Yarn A) (62l)

Round 12 :

14sc (Yarn B); 24sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from 2nd loop from hook, sl st in same loop, 24sc (Yarn A) (68l)

Info :

Don't cut thread, take another end of yarn ball and crochet the tail

— TAIL (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4l)

Round 2 :

[inc]x2, dec (5l)

Round 3 :

sc, [inc]x2, dec (6l)

Round 4 :

sc, [inc]x2, sc, dec (7l)

Round 5 :

sc, [inc]x3, sc, dec (9l)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, sc, inc, 2sc, dec (10l)

Round 7 :

10sc (10l)

Round 8 :

3sc, [inc]x3, 2sc, dec (12l)

Round 9 :

12sc (12l)

Round 10 :

3sc, [inc]x5, 2sc, dec (16l)

Round 11 :

16sc (16l)

Round 12 :

dec, 4sc, [inc]x4, 4sc, dec (18l)

Round 13 :

18sc (18l)

Round 14 :

dec, 5sc, [inc]x4, 5sc, dec (20l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread, stuff tail with synthepus, mark with pin where tail connects to back (12th loop from beginning)

Info :

Connect body with tail: insert hook into tail (inside to outside), then into body (outside to inside)

Round 13 (incomplete) :

14sc (Yarn B); crochet 26sc along body, crochet 2sc of body together with 2sc of tail, then 26sc along body (Yarn A)

Round 14 :

15sc (Yarn B); crochet 25sc on body, 18sc on tail, 26sc on body (Yarn A) (84l)

Info :

Sew holes between body and tail using extra thread

Round 15 :

15sc (Yarn B); 19sc, [dec]x3, 18sc, [dec]x3, 20sc (Yarn A) (78l)

Round 16 :

16sc (Yarn B); 15sc, [dec]x3, 18sc, [dec]x3, 17sc (Yarn A) (72l)

Round 17 :

16sc (Yarn B); 12sc, [dec]x3, 18sc, [dec]x3, 14sc (Yarn A) (66l)

Round 18 :

17sc (Yarn B); 14sc, [sc, dec]x6, 17sc (Yarn A) (60l)

Round 19 :

17sc (Yarn B); 14sc, [dec]x6, 17sc (Yarn A) (54l)

Info :

Cut Yarn A and continue crocheting with Yarn B only, start stuffing body with synthepus

Round 20 :

[7sc, dec]x6 (48l)

Round 21 :

[6sc, dec]x6 (42l)

Round 22 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Round 23 :

[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Round 24 :

[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Info :

Continue stuffing body

Round 25 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 26 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Info :

Completely fill body, optional: cut white felt circle slightly larger than hole and insert to prevent stuffing from catching on hook

Round 27 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Trim thread, pass through all loops using yarn needle, tighten and secure

— LEGS (Yarn A, make 2) :

Round 1 :

9 loops, turning, 8 sl st (starting from 2nd loop from hook), 8 sl st (from back of chain) (16l)

Round 2 :

[7sc, inc]x2 (18l)

Round 3-6 :

18sc (18l)

Round 7 :

3sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 3sc (16l)

Round 8 :

3sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 3sc (14l)

Round 9 :

2sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 2sc (12l)

Info :

Start stuffing leg with synthepus

Round 10-11 :

12sc (12l)

Round 12 :

sc, [dec]x2, 2sc, [dec]x2, sc (8l)

Round 13 :

sc, dec, 2sc, dec, sc (6l)

Info :

Completely fill leg, don't stuff further

Round 14 :

6sc only through back loops (6l)

Round 15 :

4sc, [inc]x2 (8l)

Round 16 :

4sc, [inc]x4 (12l)

Round 17 :

12sc (12l)

Round 18 :

7sc, [inc]x4, sc (16l)

Round 19 :

16sc (16l)

Info :

Change to Yarn B (leave long end of Yarn A), remove beginning marker, fold 16 loops in half

Round 20 :

1 loop, turning, 8 sl st crocheting both halves together (8l)

Round 21 :

1 loop, turning, [bobble, sl st]x2, bobble

Info :

Bobble stitch: yo, insert hook in loop, pull thread (3 loops on hook), crochet first 2 loops, repeat in next loop, crochet all 3 loops together, then crochet 3 loops and sl st in same loop

Info :

Squeeze foot to leg with few stitches using left Yarn A thread

— HANDS (Yarn A, make 2) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[inc, sc]x3 (9l)

Round 3 :

9sc (9l)

Round 4 :

[inc]x3, [dec]x3 (9l)

Round 5 :

9sc (9l)

Round 6 :

[dec]x3, [inc]x3 (9l)

Info :

Stuff hand with synthepus

Round 7 :

[sc, dec]x3 (6l)

Info :

Change to Yarn B, cut Yarn A, remove beginning marker, fold 6 loops in half

Round 8 :

1 loop, turning, 3 sl st crocheting both halves together (3l)

Round 9 :

1 loop, turning, crochet in 1 loop {sc, 2 loops, sl st}; sl st; crochet in 1 loop {sc, 2 loops, sl st}

— CREST on the body (Green embroidery floss) :

Info :

Crochet crest with 1.5 mm hook

Round 1 :

45 loops, turning, sl st (starting from 2nd loop from hook), [sl st; crochet in one loop {sl st, dc, sl st}; sl st]x14, sl st

Info :

Cut and fix thread leaving very long end for sewing, sew crest to body pre-fixing with needles for perfect symmetry

— SPOTS (Green embroidery floss) :

Info :

Crochet spots with 1.5 mm hook

SMALL (make 8) :

3 loops, turning, 2sc (starting from 2nd loop from hook), 2sc (from back of chain) sl st in 1st sc (4l)

MIDDLE (make 6) :

4 loops, turning, 3sc (starting from 2nd loop from hook), 3sc (from back of chain) sl st in 1st sc (6l)

BIG (make 4) :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from 2nd loop from hook), 4sc (from back of chain) sl st in 1st sc (8l)

Info :

Cut and fix threads leaving long ends for sewing, sew spots on hands, legs, back and tail

— BONUS TV SET :

— TV Screen Embroidery :

Info :

Divide grey embroidery floss in half, embroider dinosaur with cross-stitch using pattern provided

Info :

Embroider frame with grey floss using back needle seam, step back 1 cell and embroider frame with yellow yarn

Info :

Cut out embroidery leaving free space on sides

— SIDE PANEL (Yellow yarn) :

Info :

Crochet panel with 1.75 mm hook, leave long end at beginning for sewing

Round 1 :

15 loops, turning, 14sc (starting from 2nd loop from hook) (14l)

Round 2-6 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc (14l)

Info :

Don't cut thread, sew side panel and screen together using left thread end

Round 7 :

Crochet around side panel with screen counter-clockwise: 6sc, 19sc straight, 14sc down, 19sc, 6sc straight, 14sc up (78l)

Info :

Don't cut thread, decorate side panel

— BIG BUTTONS (Brown embroidery floss, make 2) :

Info :

Crochet buttons with 1.5 mm hook

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring), sl st in 1st sc (6l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread leaving long end, sew buttons to panel with wrong side outward

Info :

Embroider 3 little buttons with French knots, divide grey floss in half and embroider diagonal lines on buttons

Info :

Embroider frame with back needle seam, continue crocheting

Round 8 :

78sc only through back loops (78l)

Round 9-16 :

78sc (78l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread, cut styrofoam same size as TV (approximately 7.5 x 4.2 x 3 cm) and place inside

— BACK PANEL (Yellow yarn) :

Round 1 :

15 loops, turning, 14sc (starting from 2nd loop from hook) (14l)

Round 2-25 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc (14l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread leaving very long end for sewing, sew panel to TV set

— ANTENNA (Brown embroidery floss) :

Info :

Crochet antenna with 1.5 mm hook

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[inc]x6 (12l)

Round 3 :

[sc, inc]x6 (18l)

Round 4-5 :

18sc (18l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread leaving long end, cut 10 cm wire and insert into antenna, twist wire from wrong side

Info :

Bend right antenna into lightning bolt shape, cut excess wire, sew antenna to TV set

— FEET (Grey embroidery floss, make 4) :

Info :

Crochet feet with 1.5 mm hook

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

8sc only through back loops (8l)

Round 3 :

8sc (8l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread leaving long end for sewing, sew feet to TV set

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach hands and legs using needles to mark positions first: hands between rounds 9-10 (16 stitches apart), legs between rounds 17-18 (26 stitches apart when viewed from above)
  • Verify the dinosaur stands steadily before final sewing
  • Use threaded bracing technique with round-nosed pliers: insert needle through back at hand attachment point leaving loose thread end outside
  • Thread needle through two loops on inner surface of first hand (needle for cutting in middle), then through body to second hand attachment point
  • Pass needle through second hand the same way, then sew body and hands two more times for strength
  • Connect legs using same technique: insert needle at hand attachment and pull out at opposite leg attachment, thread through both legs
  • Sew body and legs two more times for strength, then insert needle at leg attachment and exit at starting point on back
  • Tie several knots and hide thread ends to complete assembly

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to track beginning of rounds especially during jacquard color changes to maintain pattern alignment
  • 💡When working jacquard technique, move loose stitches forward with working thread to keep wrong side neat
  • 💡Install cotter pin joint carefully between specified rounds to ensure proper head mobility without being too loose or tight
  • 💡Stuff body parts firmly but not overly tight to maintain proper shape and allow for joint movement
  • 💡Pre-pin all embroidered details and limbs before final sewing to achieve perfect symmetry and positioning
  • 💡For TV set bonus project, cut styrofoam precisely to fit interior dimensions for professional finish
  • 💡Keep embroidery floss divided in half for all facial features to achieve delicate, proportional details

This charming Tyrannosaurus Oliver pattern combines advanced amigurumi techniques with intricate embroidery details to create a truly special handmade treasure. From the movable cotter pin head joint to the jacquard color-changing technique for the white belly, every element has been thoughtfully designed. The bonus retro TV set adds a whimsical touch that makes this pattern extra special—it's not just a toy, it's a complete scene! Perfect for challenging yourself with new skills while creating an adorable prehistoric companion. Get ready to bring Oliver to life! 🦖📺🧶

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Can I make this pattern without the cotter pin joint for the head?

Yes! If you don't want to use a cotter pin mechanism, you can simply sew the head directly to the body. The cotter pin allows the head to turn in different directions, but a sewn attachment will work perfectly fine for a secure, stable connection.

What is the jacquard technique and is it difficult to learn?

The jacquard technique involves working with two colors simultaneously without cutting the yarn. You alternate between colors to create the white belly against the green body. The pattern includes detailed photo instructions showing exactly how to change colors and manage the loose stitches on the wrong side. With practice, it becomes quite manageable!

Do I need to make the bonus TV set or is it optional?

The TV set is completely optional—it's a bonus project! Your Tyrannosaurus Oliver is complete without it. However, the TV makes a charming accessory and is a fun way to practice combining cross-stitch embroidery with crochet work.

Can I use different yarn weights than suggested?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but your finished dinosaur will be a different size. If you change yarns, adjust your hook size accordingly and make sure to crochet tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through. The pattern specifies Sport weight (12 wpi) yarn for a 10.5 cm tall finished toy.

What is threaded bracing assembly and why is it used?

Threaded bracing is a technique where you use a needle and thread to connect limbs through the body, creating secure, stable attachments. This method is especially important for this pattern because it ensures the dinosaur stands steadily and the limbs are positioned evenly on both sides.

How do I create the embroidered facial features without making mistakes?

The pattern recommends inserting safety eyes first but not securing them until after you've completed the pupil and highlight embroidery. This allows you to adjust positioning for perfect symmetry. Use pins to mark eyebrow placement before embroidering, and work slowly with divided embroidery floss for delicate details.