🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Crochet Pattern

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Crochet Pattern
4.6★ Rating
3-4 Hours Time Needed
1.6K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic knitting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Lighted Granny Pumpkin Crochet Pattern

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Crochet Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

What makes this pattern truly special is the clever construction method that creates dimensional pumpkin ribs and the ingenious use of clear craft plastic inserts to maintain shape while securely holding the fairy lights in place. The finishing touches of crocheted stems, leaves, and curly vines add authentic pumpkin character.

Why You'll Love This Lighted Granny Pumpkin Crochet Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it transforms traditional crochet into functional home décor that creates such a warm ambiance. There's something magical about seeing your handmade creation glow from within, and these pumpkins become instant conversation pieces. I appreciate how the granny square technique makes the project meditative and relaxing, while the final result is impressively polished and professional-looking. The fact that you can make three different sizes means you can create an entire pumpkin patch display, and they make incredibly thoughtful gifts that people treasure year after year. Every time I turn on those fairy lights and see that warm glow radiating through the handmade stitches, I feel such satisfaction and joy.

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Crochet Pattern step 1 - construction progress Lighted Granny Pumpkin Crochet Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Lighted Granny Pumpkin Crochet Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Lighted Granny Pumpkin Crochet Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love customizing these lighted pumpkins to match different seasonal themes and personal styles throughout the fall season. One of my favorite variations is creating an ombré effect by gradually transitioning between two or three coordinating yarn colors as I work through the rows, which creates a beautiful gradient effect when illuminated. I've also experimented with using variegated yarns that automatically create color changes, resulting in uniquely patterned pumpkins every single time.

For a more rustic farmhouse look, I sometimes use natural jute or cotton yarn in cream and beige tones, paired with darker brown stems that give an authentic heirloom quality to the finished pieces. During Halloween, I love making orange and black striped versions by alternating colors every few rows, or even creating spooky purple and green combinations that look fantastic with the fairy lights glowing inside.

Another fun modification I enjoy is varying the stem lengths and adding multiple curly vines in different green shades to create more organic, garden-fresh appearances. I've even experimented with adding small crocheted flowers or embroidered details on the pumpkin surface for extra texture and visual interest. For gift-giving, I sometimes personalize them by embroidering names or initials near the bottom where they're subtle but meaningful.

The size versatility is another aspect I really appreciate – I love creating entire pumpkin patch displays by making all three sizes and clustering them together on mantels, shelves, or as table centerpieces. Sometimes I'll make mini versions as gift toppers or ornaments by reducing the pattern even further. The possibilities for customization truly feel endless with this wonderfully adaptable design!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping gauge consideration can result in pumpkins that are too large or too small for the recommended LED light strings to fit properly inside ✗ Pulling decrease rows too tightly creates puckered ridges instead of smooth dimensional curves that define the pumpkin's characteristic ribbed shape ✗ Forgetting to work in front loops only or back loops only on specified rows will eliminate the textured ridge effect completely ✗ Not measuring plastic insert rectangles accurately based on your personal tension results in inserts that don't fit properly or hold their shape ✗ Distributing LED lights unevenly inside the pumpkin creates bright spots and dark areas instead of uniform illumination throughout the entire piece

Lighted Granny Pumpkin Crochet Pattern

Create enchanting lighted pumpkins perfect for autumn décor with this delightful granny square pattern! Available in three sizes (small, medium, and large), these charming pumpkins feature beautiful granny square texture and are designed to hold battery-operated LED fairy lights inside. Complete with adorable stems, curly vines, and leaves, they bring a warm, cozy glow to any space. Whether you're decorating your home for fall or creating heartfelt handmade gifts, these lighted pumpkins are sure to brighten everyone's day with their magical illumination and handcrafted charm.

Intermediate 3-4 Hours

Materials Needed for Lighted Granny Pumpkin Crochet Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Medium worsted weight yarn in cream, gold, off white, pale green, or cornmeal colors for pumpkin body
  • 02
    Caron One Pound in Cream, Off White, or Pale Green
  • 03
    Red Heart Super Saver in Gold or Cornmeal
  • 04
    Odds-and-ends amounts of brown yarn for stems (Coffee, Cafe Latte, Warm Brown)
  • 05
    Green yarn for leaves and vines (Dark Jade or Soft Sage)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size H8/5.00mm
  • 02
    Yarn needle for weaving in ends
  • 03
    Scissors for cutting yarn
  • 04
    Pinch of poly-fill stuffing for stem
  • 05
    Clear 6 mil mylar craft plastic sheets
  • 06
    20-LED string of battery-operated fairy lights in warm white
  • 07
    CR2032 replacement batteries
  • 08
    Tapestry needle for assembly
  • 09
    Stitch markers (recommended)
  • 10
    Stapler for plastic insert assembly

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— LARGE PUMPKIN :

Begin :

Work ch 14

Row 1 :

sc in second chain from hook and in next st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Row 2 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 3 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 4 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 5 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 6 :

sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Info :

For this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist

Row 7 :

working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Row 8 :

working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 9 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 10 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 11 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 12 :

sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Row 13 :

working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Row 14 :

working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 15 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 16 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 17 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 18 :

sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Row 19 :

working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Row 20 :

working in both loops from now on— sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 21 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 22 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 23 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 24 :

sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Row 25 :

working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Row 26 :

working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 27 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 28 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 29 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 30 :

sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Row 31 :

working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Row 32 :

working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 33 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 34 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Row 35 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 36 :

sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Finish :

Finish off, leaving 14 inch yarn tail

— MEDIUM PUMPKIN :

Begin :

Work ch 12

Row 1 :

sc in second ch from hook and in next st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 st, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st)

Row 2 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 3 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 4 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 5 :

sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches)

Info :

For this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist

Row 6 :

working in back loops only — sc in next 2 st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 stitches, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st)

Row 7 :

working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 8 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 9 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 10 :

sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches)

Row 11 :

working in front loops only — sc in next 2 st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 stitches, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st)

Row 12 :

working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 13 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 14 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 15 :

sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches)

Row 16 :

working in back loops only — sc in next 2 st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 stitches, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st)

Row 17 :

working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 18 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 19 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 20 :

sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches)

Row 21 :

working in front loops only — sc in next 2 st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 stitches, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st)

Row 22 :

working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 23 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 24 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 25 :

sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches)

Row 26 :

working in back loops only — sc in next 2 st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 stitches, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st)

Row 27 :

working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 28 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 29 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Row 30 :

sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches)

Finish :

Finish off, leaving 14 inch yarn tail

— SMALL PUMPKIN :

Begin :

Work ch 8

Row 1 :

sc in second chain from hook, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Row 2 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 3 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Row 4 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 5 :

sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Info :

For this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist

Row 6 :

working in back loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Row 7 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 8 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Row 9 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 10 :

sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Row 11 :

working in front loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Row 12 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 13 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Row 14 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 15 :

sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Row 16 :

working in back loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Row 17 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 18 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Row 19 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 20 :

sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Row 21 :

working in front loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Row 22 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 23 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Row 24 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 25 :

sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Row 26 :

working in back loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Row 27 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 28 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Row 29 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Row 30 :

sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Finish :

Finish off, leaving 14 inch yarn tail

— STEM (FOR ALL PUMPKIN SIZES) :

Info :

Stem is worked in a spiral. Do not turn or join at the end of each round

Rnd 1 :

6 sc in magic circle

Rnd 2 :

2 sc in each st around. (12 st)

Rnd 3 :

in back loops only — [sc in next 2 st, sc2tog] 3 times. (9 st)

Rnd 4 :

in both loops from now on — [sc2tog, sc in next st) 3 times. (6 st)

Rnd 5-6 :

sc in each st around. (6 st)

Rnd 7 :

2 sc in each st around. FO, leaving about 14 inch tail. (12 st)

Info :

Stuff a quarter-size bit of stuffing up into stem. Use yarn end to sew opening of stem to indented top of pumpkin

Note :

If a longer stem is desired, add another sc around round after Round 6, especially for Large Pumpkin

— CURLY VINE :

For Large Pumpkin :

Begin by working ch 21. Row 1: 2 sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. FO, leaving 10 inch tail. (40 st)

For Medium Pumpkin :

Begin by working ch 17. Row 1: 2 sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. FO, leaving 10 inch tail. (32 st)

For Small Pumpkin :

Begin by working ch 13. Row 1: 2 sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. FO, leaving 10 inch tail. (24 st)

Info :

Using tapestry needle, attach curly vine near base of stem

— LEAF (FOR ALL PUMPKIN SIZES) :

Info :

Turn work at the end of each row. There are NO turning chains

Row 1 :

ch 2, in second ch from hook, work the following — sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc. Do NOT join. Turn. (9 st)

Row 2 :

sl st in first st, [skip st, 5 hdc in next st] 3 times, skip st, sl st in last st. Turn. (17 st)

Row 3 :

sl st in first st, sc in next 3 st, (2 dc, ch 2, sl st in second ch from hook, dc) in next st, sl st, sc in next 2 st, (2 dc, ch 2, sl st in second ch from hook, 2 dc) in next st, sc in next 2 st, sl st, (dc, ch 2, sl st in second ch from hook, 2 dc) in next st, sc in next 3 st, sl st in last st, sl st in beginning center ring. Ch 1. FO, leaving 12 inch yarn tail

Info :

Using tapestry needle, attach leaf near base of stem

Assembly Instructions

  • Fold the completed pumpkin rib strip with right sides together and slip stitch through the bottom edge and inside loop of the top edge to form a tube, keeping stitches relaxed not tight.
  • Turn the tube right side out and weave yarn through one end opening with tapestry needle, pull snug to close completely creating the top of the pumpkin.
  • Measure the width of a single pumpkin rib (approximately 2.5 inches for large, 2 inches for medium, 1.5 inches for small), add 1 inch to width and subtract 0.5 inch from original measurement for height to determine rectangle dimensions.
  • Cut six rectangles from clear 6 mil mylar craft plastic according to your measurements, staple them together along short sides to create a star shape, then round the corners with scissors.
  • Turn the plastic star inside-out to create a flower shape, compress gently and insert into bottom pumpkin opening, allowing it to spring open and nestle into the rib areas.
  • Divide LED fairy light string into six equal parts (approximately 3-4 lights per section for 20-LED string), finger-wrap each section into coils and insert one coil into each plastic petal compartment.
  • Cut a 14 inch length of matching yarn, weave around the bottom opening edge with tapestry needle and pull snug around the protruding wire leaving the battery pack outside, then secure ends or tie in bow.

Important Notes

  • 💡Gauge and personal tension may affect finished size slightly, so measure your own work and adjust plastic insert dimensions accordingly for best fit
  • 💡Clear 6 mil mylar craft plastic is highly recommended as it's pliable enough to manipulate yet firm enough to maintain shape and hold lights securely
  • 💡Use CR2032 or appropriate replacement batteries rather than relying solely on batteries that come with fairy lights for longer lasting illumination
  • 💡When working decrease rows, remember not to count chain-1 spaces as stitches and skip over them as though they don't exist
  • 💡Pay careful attention to front loops only and back loops only instructions as these create the dimensional ridges that define the pumpkin shape
  • 💡Large pumpkins can accommodate two 20-LED strings or one 50-LED string for extra bright illumination if desired
  • 💡Distribute LED lights evenly across all six compartments to ensure uniform glow without bright spots or dark areas throughout the pumpkin

This enchanting Lighted Granny Pumpkin pattern beautifully combines traditional granny square techniques with innovative functional design to create stunning autumn décor that glows from within. Perfect for crocheters who love projects that are both decorative and practical, these charming pumpkins bring warmth and handmade magic to any space. The clever construction method and detailed assembly instructions ensure your finished pumpkins maintain their beautiful shape while safely housing battery-operated lights. Whether you're crafting for your own seasonal display or creating thoughtful handmade gifts, these illuminated pumpkins will brighten hearts and homes all autumn long. Happy crocheting! 🎃✨🧶

You ask,

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FAQs

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

While the pattern is written for medium worsted weight yarn with an H8/5.00mm hook, you can use different yarn weights. Just keep in mind that changing yarn weight will affect the finished size of your pumpkin and you'll need to adjust the plastic insert dimensions accordingly. Lighter weight yarn will create smaller pumpkins while bulkier yarn creates larger ones.

How do I calculate the plastic insert dimensions if my pumpkin size is different?

Measure the width of one single rib on your completed pumpkin strip. Add 1 inch to that width measurement for your rectangle width. Then subtract 0.5 inch from your original rib measurement to get your rectangle height. Cut six rectangles using these dimensions and follow the assembly instructions to create your custom-sized insert.

Can I make these pumpkins without the LED lights?

Absolutely! While the lights create a magical glowing effect, you can definitely make these pumpkins as regular stuffed decorations. Simply stuff them firmly with poly-fill instead of inserting the plastic compartments and lights. You may want to close the bottom more securely without leaving an opening for wires.

What if I can't find 6 mil mylar craft plastic?

Six mil mylar is recommended for its ideal balance of flexibility and structure, but you can experiment with other clear plastics like acetate sheets or transparency film. Just ensure whatever you use is sturdy enough to hold its shape when compressed but flexible enough to insert into the pumpkin opening.

How do I prevent my decrease rows from being too tight?

The key is to work your sc2tog stitches with relaxed tension and remember to skip over the chain-1 spaces completely as though they don't exist. Pull your working yarn through gently rather than tightly, and don't pull the decrease row tight when you finish it. The ridges should indent naturally without excessive puckering.

Can I substitute the stem colors or add different embellishments?

Yes! Feel free to get creative with your color choices for stems, leaves, and vines. You could use seasonal colors, match your home décor, or even add extra embellishments like small crocheted flowers or decorative buttons. The pattern provides a foundation that welcomes your personal creative touches.