🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Set Pattern

Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Set Pattern
3.9★Rating
10-15 HoursTime Needed
1.9KMade This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

☕

Warm Welcome

A comforting piece for home or gifts that brings handmade warmth to everyday moments and special occasions.

About This Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Set Pattern

Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Set Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Style it over a guest bed, drape it across the foot of your own, or wrap it up as a wedding or housewarming gift for someone who loves cozy, heirloom-style textiles.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Set Pattern

I love that this project never asks you to commit to the whole thing at once. One square is an evening, and each one makes the next feel easier. The solid-then-mesh rhythm settles into your hands after a couple of rounds, so I can chat with a friend or watch a show without losing my place. It’s also one of the few big projects where I never felt lost in the middle, because every square gives me a fresh little finish line.

Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Set Pattern step 1 Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Set Pattern step 2 Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Set Pattern step 3 Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Set Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

The first time I made one of these squares, I didn’t expect much. A little ring, a few rounds, a plain square. Then I made the fifth, and the tenth, and somehow the growing stack on my couch became the part of my day I looked forward to most.

Here’s the trick that saved me: I counted the ch-1 spaces on the first mesh round of every square before moving on. If a side has the wrong number, the corners drift and the whole square turns a little crooked, which you only notice when you start sewing. I also mark the first corner of Round 1 with a stitch marker so every square faces the same way. Five seconds of counting spared me a lot of ripping back.

I fell for the shell edge and tassels more than I planned to, too. Cutting all those strands over a piece of cardboard felt tedious until I put on a podcast, and then it turned strangely relaxing. If you want a different mood, try the same spread in soft sage or warm cream, and keep the tassels the same color as the squares so the whole thing reads as one calm, textured piece. Mine stays at the foot of my bed all year.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ The mesh rounds are where the corners drift, because it’s easy to skip the wrong stitch. Check that every side ends on a dc right before the next corner sp, and count the ch-1 spaces against the number given in that round.✗ If a corner sp holds anything other than 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, the square starts to flare or pucker by Round 6. Check each corner before you move on to the next side.✗ When sewing the 48 squares together, one square turned the wrong way will leave the seams looking lopsided. Pin every seam at both corners and the midpoint first, and match the 41 dc on each edge one to one.✗ The shell edging ruffles or pulls tight if your Round 1 sc count isn’t a multiple of 6. Count all 1212 sc before starting the shells and add or skip a few along the head edge if you’re off.✗ Tassels pulled too tight bunch up the scalloped edge and make the shells flip forward. Pull each knot only until it’s snug, and cut every strand over a cardboard guide so the lengths match.✗ On the bolster, working both loops by accident on a few rows flattens the ridges and leaves visible gaps in the texture. Stay in the back loop only for every row after Row 1, and check the ridge line every ten rows.

Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Set Pattern

Picture sliding into bed under a handmade lace spread that looks like it came out of a family heirloom chest. This pattern gives you the entire matching set: a joined square bedspread with a scalloped, fringed edge, two pillow shams with a big concentric center, and a little ridged bolster finished with pom-poms. Each square is a small, satisfying project on its own, so progress is easy to see and easy to pick back up. By the time the last strip is joined, you’ll have a bedroom statement piece you stitched yourself.

Intermediate 10-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Lace Square Bedspread and Pillow Set Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 2,500 g of worsted weight cotton yarn in dusty rose (a muted terracotta pink) for the bedspread squares, shell edging, and tassels
  • 02
    Approximately 650 g of the same dusty rose cotton yarn for the pair of pillow shams (two fronts and two backs)
  • 03
    Approximately 200 g of the same dusty rose cotton yarn for the ridged bolster cushion and its pom-poms

— Tools Required

  • 01
    5 mm (US H-8) crochet hook, approximately, adjust to match your tension
  • 02
    Tapestry needle with a large eye for sewing the squares together
  • 03
    Sharp scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers to mark the first corner of each square
  • 05
    Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
  • 06
    Measuring tape
  • 07
    Piece of cardboard about 15 cm (6 in) wide for wrapping and cutting tassel strands
  • 08
    Piece of cardboard about 4 cm (1.6 in) wide for making the pom-poms
  • 09
    Two pillow inserts, approximately 50 x 50 cm (20 x 20 in)
  • 10
    One bolster insert or stuffing, approximately 45 x 20 cm (18 x 8 in)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Lace Square Motif (make 48) :

Info :

Each square measures approximately 28 cm (11 in) across with a 5 mm hook and worsted weight cotton. Six squares across and eight down make a bedspread of approximately 168 cm x 224 cm (66 x 88 in) before the tassels, which suits a full or double bed with a modest drop. To resize, add or remove squares: each one adds about 28 cm (11 in) in that direction.

Info :

Every corner is worked as (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the ch-2 corner sp. Every round after Round 1 begins the same way: sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp, then ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in that same corner sp. Place a stitch marker in the first corner of Round 1 so every square faces the same direction.

Round 1 :

ch 4 and join with a sl st in the first ch to form a ring. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the ring, ch 2, 2 dc in the ring. (ch 1, 2 dc in the ring, ch 2, 2 dc in the ring) 3 times. ch 1, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (16 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 4 ch-1 sps)

Round 2 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in each of next 5 sts (2 dc, the ch-1 sp, 2 dc). (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in each of next 5 sts. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (36 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 3 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 4 times. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 4 times. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (36 dc, 16 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 4 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in each of next 13 sts, working into each dc and each ch-1 sp. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in each of next 13 sts. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (68 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 5 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 8 times. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 8 times. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (52 dc, 32 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 6 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in each of next 21 sts, working into each dc and each ch-1 sp. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in each of next 21 sts. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (100 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 7 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 12 times. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 12 times. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (68 dc, 48 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 8 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in each of next 29 sts, working into each dc and each ch-1 sp. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in each of next 29 sts. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (132 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 9 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 16 times. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 16 times. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (84 dc, 64 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 10 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in each of next 37 sts, working into each dc and each ch-1 sp. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in each of next 37 sts. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3, fasten off and leave a 30 cm (12 in) tail for sewing (164 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 41 dc along each edge)

— 2. Shell Edging :

Info :

Work the edging after all the squares are sewn into one large rectangle. The edge detail was subtle on this piece, so I used a simple shell scallop. Swap in your favorite scallop or leave the edge in plain sc if you prefer. Hold the short side that will sit at the head of the bed as your starting edge.

Round 1 :

Join yarn in any outer corner sp on the head edge. ch 1, 4 sc in the same corner sp. Work 1 sc in each dc and 1 sc in every corner sp along the edge, including both corner sps at each seam. Work 4 sc in each outer corner sp. Continue around, then join with a sl st to the first sc (256 sc along each short side and 342 sc along each long side between the corners, plus 4 sc in each of the 4 outer corners = 1212 sc)

Round 2 :

Join yarn with a standing sl st in any sc along the head edge. (skip next 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 sc, sl st in next sc) repeat around, so the final sl st lands in the sc where you started. Fasten off (202 shells)

— 3. Tassel Fringe :

Info :

Tassels hang along the foot edge and both long sides, and the head edge stays plain so it tucks neatly under the pillows. You’ll need approximately 160 tassels: about 44 across the foot and about 58 along each long side. Each tassel uses 3 strands cut to 30 cm (12 in), so cut roughly 480 strands in total, giving tassels about 14 cm (5.5 in) long.

Cut :

Wrap yarn around a 15 cm (6 in) wide piece of cardboard about 80 times, then cut across one edge to release strands that are each 30 cm (12 in) long. Repeat until you have roughly 480 strands, keeping them in bundles of 3.

Attach :

Fold one bundle of 3 strands in half. From the back, push the hook through the sl st that sits between two shells and pull the folded loop through. Pass the 6 tails through the loop and pull snug (1 tassel)

Space :

Add a tassel in every sl st between shells along the foot edge and both long sides, working from one head corner down the long side, across the foot, and up the other long side. Stop at the second head corner so the head edge stays bare.

Trim :

Lay the spread flat and comb each tassel with your fingers. Trim all the ends level with the sharpest scissors you have, using the cardboard as a guide for a straight line.

— 4. Pillow Sham Front (make 2) :

Info :

The sham front is the same lace square, simply carried on to Round 18, so it measures approximately 52 cm (20.5 in) square and fits a 50 x 50 cm (20 x 20 in) insert snugly. Work Rounds 1 to 10 exactly as written in the Lace Square Motif section, then continue with the rounds below. Use the same corner start for every round.

Round 11 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 20 times. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 20 times. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (100 dc, 80 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 12 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in each of next 45 sts, working into each dc and each ch-1 sp. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in each of next 45 sts. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (196 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 13 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 24 times. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 24 times. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (116 dc, 96 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 14 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in each of next 53 sts, working into each dc and each ch-1 sp. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in each of next 53 sts. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (228 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 15 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 28 times. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 28 times. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (132 dc, 112 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 16 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in each of next 61 sts, working into each dc and each ch-1 sp. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in each of next 61 sts. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (260 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 17 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 32 times. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in next st, (ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st) 32 times. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (148 dc, 128 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 18 :

Start by working sl st in next dc and in the ch-2 corner sp. ch 3 (counts as dc), dc, ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner sp. dc in each of next 69 sts, working into each dc and each ch-1 sp. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next corner sp, dc in each of next 69 sts. Rep the last corner and side 2 more times. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3, fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing (292 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 73 dc along each edge)

— 5. Pillow Sham Back (make 2) :

Info :

The back is a simple dc rectangle that matches the front at approximately 52 cm (20.5 in) square. Work it flat in rows and turn at the end of every row.

Row 1 :

ch 77, dc in the 4th ch from hook (the 3 skipped ch count as a dc) and in each ch across (75 sts)

Row 2-37 :

ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, skip first st, dc in each of next 73 sts, dc in the top of the turning ch (75 sts). Rep this row 35 more times for a total of 37 rows, then fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

— 6. Ridged Bolster Cushion :

Info :

The bolster is one long strip, approximately 20 cm x 90 cm (8 x 35 in), that folds in half to make a cushion of about 45 x 20 cm (18 x 8 in). Ridges come from working in the back loop only, and it’s worth keeping the same tension from the first row to the last.

Row 1 :

ch 32, hdc in the 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across (30 sts)

Row 2-100 :

ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, BLO hdc in each st across (30 sts). Rep this row 98 more times for a total of 100 rows, then fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing

— 7. Pom-Poms (make 10) :

Info :

You’ll need 10 small pom-poms, five for each short end of the bolster. They finish at approximately 3 cm (1.2 in) across, so go easy when trimming.

Wrap :

Wrap yarn around a 4 cm (1.6 in) wide piece of cardboard about 60 times, keeping the wraps even and not too tight.

Tie :

Slide a 25 cm (10 in) strand of yarn between the cardboard and the wraps, pull it very tight, and knot it twice. Slip the bundle off the cardboard.

Cut :

Cut through all the loops on both sides of the knot and fluff the pom-pom between your fingers.

Trim :

Trim the pom-pom into a round ball about 3 cm (1.2 in) across, leaving the two tie tails long enough for sewing.

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in all ends on the squares, shams, and bolster strip. Wet block each square flat to approximately 28 cm (11 in) and each sham front to approximately 52 cm (20.5 in), pinning at the corners and midpoints, then let them dry fully.
  • Lay out the 48 squares in 8 strips of 6 squares each, with every first corner marker facing the same direction. With the tapestry needle, whip stitch each square to the next through the back loops only, matching the 41 dc along each edge one to one and lining up the corner sps.
  • Sew the 8 strips together the same way, matching every seam junction. Where four corners meet, take 2 or 3 stitches across the center point to close the gap and keep the grid flat.
  • With the spread joined and blocked, work Shell Edging Round 1 and Round 2 all the way around, then knot the tassels along the foot and both long sides, leaving the head edge plain.
  • For each sham, place the front and back with wrong sides together. Whip stitch around three sides, working 2 sts of the front into each row of the back, and use the corner sps of Round 18 to place the sewing at each corner. Insert the 50 x 50 cm (20 x 20 in) pillow insert and sew the last side closed.
  • For the bolster, fold the strip in half at Row 50 so the short edges meet. Sew the two long edges together, insert the bolster insert or stuffing, and sew the open short end closed.
  • Sew 5 pom-poms evenly along each short end of the bolster, about 4 cm (1.6 in) apart and about 2 cm (0.8 in) in from the edge, passing the tie tails through the ridges and knotting them inside. Finish by steam blocking the tassels lightly if needed.

Important Notes

  • 💡Make one test square and measure it before making all 48. If it’s smaller or larger than approximately 28 cm (11 in), change your hook size so every square and your final dimensions come out right.
  • 💡Buy all the yarn for the spread, shams, and bolster at the same time and from the same dye lot. Even slight tone shifts show up across a big expanse of solid color.
  • 💡Mesh rounds tend to loosen up, so keep the ch-1 spaces about the same size as your dc stitches. Loose mesh makes the squares grow and no longer match the rest.
  • 💡Complete a few squares at a time and join them into strips as you go. A growing pile of 48 loose squares is easy to mix up, and you can check your sizing early.
  • 💡Cotton gets heavy and stretches when wet, so block the finished spread flat on a clean floor or bed rather than hanging it, and let it dry completely before using.
  • 💡Wash on a gentle cycle in cool water and dry flat. A bedspread this size can weigh several kilos when wet, so never lift it by one corner.
  • 💡Keep the bolster rows at the same tension throughout. If the ridges start looking uneven, rip back a few rows now rather than hoping blocking will hide it.

Every square you finish is a tiny win, and before long they’ll add up to a bedspread you’ll love spreading across your bed. Take it one round at a time, keep a few finished squares nearby for motivation, and let the quiet rhythm of the stitches carry you along. When the last tassel is knotted and the shams are plumped, step back and soak it in. You made all of this yourself! Happy crocheting, and enjoy every cozy minute of it. 🧶✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Can I use a different yarn weight for this bedspread?

You can, but the numbers in this pattern were designed for worsted weight cotton and a 5 mm hook. DK weight makes each square smaller, so you’d need more squares, while bulky yarn makes them larger and heavier. Make one test square, measure it, and adjust the number of squares across and down to reach the size you want.

Can I join the squares as I go instead of sewing them?

Yes. Hold two finished squares wrong sides together and sc through both loops along the 41 dc on each edge, matching corner sps. Sewing gives a flatter seam, while joining gives a slight ridge, so decide before you start and use the same method throughout.

How much yarn do I need for the whole set?

Roughly 2,500 g for the bedspread, 650 g for the pair of shams, and 200 g for the bolster in worsted weight cotton. Tension varies a lot between crocheters, so buy a little extra from the same dye lot.

What size pillow insert fits the shams?

The sham front after Round 18 and the 37-row back both measure approximately 52 cm (20.5 in) square, so a 50 x 50 cm (20 x 20 in) insert fits snugly with a full look. A slightly bigger insert will make the shams look plump but may pull the lace open.

How do I make the bedspread bigger for a queen bed?

Add squares, for example 7 across and 9 down, which gives approximately 196 cm x 252 cm (77 x 99 in). Each extra square adds 41 dc plus 2 corner sps, or 43 sc, along that edge in Edging Round 1. Recount your total after Round 1 and add or skip a few sc along the head edge until the number divides by 6 for the shells.