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Crochet Flower Square Bedspread with Pillow Shams Pattern

Crochet Flower Square Bedspread with Pillow Shams Pattern
3.9★Rating
10-15 HoursTime Needed
2.3KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Warm Welcome

A comforting piece for home or gifts that brings handmade warmth to everyday moments and special occasions.

About This Crochet Flower Square Bedspread with Pillow Shams Pattern

Crochet Flower Square Bedspread with Pillow Shams Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Layer it over a guest bed for a hotel-worthy welcome, or wrap it up as a wedding or housewarming gift that someone will keep for decades. It looks lovely draped over a blanket chest, too.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Flower Square Bedspread with Pillow Shams Pattern

I fell for the tiny eyelet centers first, then for the way the petals fan out like a bloom hiding inside each square. The stitches are all friendly ones, mostly sc, hdc, and dc with a few chain loops, so I never felt stuck. And joining the columns felt like finishing a puzzle, which made me want to start the next row right away.

Crochet Flower Square Bedspread with Pillow Shams Pattern step 1 Crochet Flower Square Bedspread with Pillow Shams Pattern step 2 Crochet Flower Square Bedspread with Pillow Shams Pattern step 3 Crochet Flower Square Bedspread with Pillow Shams Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I made my first batch of these flower squares during a rainy week when I couldn’t focus on anything else. By the third square I knew the petal round by heart, and I caught myself humming while the pile grew.

Here’s a tip I learned the hard way: block every square before you seam anything. Mine curled a little after the petal round, and a quick wet block pinned out to the same size fixed it, so the corners lined up beautifully later on. Pin each one flat with the petals fully open and let it dry completely.

I like to crochet in batches of five, one square for each column, so I can see progress without feeling the size of the whole bedspread. If you’re feeling playful, try soft sage green for the lace strips and keep the squares blue, or go all ivory for a quiet wedding gift.

The first time I smoothed the finished panel across my bed and watched the scallops fall into place, I actually got a little teary. It’s a lot of stitches, but I’d happily do every single one again.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ If you pull the ch 7 loops in Round 4 too tight, the petals cup and bunch up instead of lying flat, so keep those loops relaxed and let the petals sit open before starting Round 5.✗ When any side of Round 6 has more or fewer than 17 dc between the corner sps, the Round 7 mesh won’t line up and the square twists into a diamond, so count every side before moving on.✗ A tight foundation chain on the lace strips makes them shorter than the finished columns, which causes puckering at the seam, so chain loosely or use a hook one size larger for Row 1 only.✗ In the shell round of the border it’s easy to put 5 dc in the wrong ch-1 sp and break the sc and shell rhythm, so check that every shell sits between two sc before you turn each corner.✗ Seaming the squares with a tight sc through both layers makes the columns shorter than the strips, so keep your seam tension relaxed and match the 23 edge sts of each square to the strip as you go.✗ Skipping the blocking step leaves the petal round curling slightly, and the corner ch-2 sps then land out of line at the joins, so pin each square flat to the same size before seaming.

Crochet Flower Square Bedspread with Pillow Shams Pattern

Imagine finishing a long day and walking into a bedroom that already feels like a deep breath. That’s the mood you’re about to stitch. You’ll work one small piece at a time, so there’s always a satisfying finish line within reach, and the whole thing grows from your lap into something you can truly show off. Grab a cup of tea, pick a soft blue you love, and settle in. Each square will make you smile a little more than the last.

Intermediate 10-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Flower Square Bedspread with Pillow Shams Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 2,000 g of DK weight cotton yarn in soft periwinkle blue for 50 flower squares, 4 lace strips, and the shell border of the bedspread
  • 02
    Approximately 500 g of the same DK weight cotton yarn in periwinkle blue for 12 flower squares and the borders of two pillow shams
  • 03
    About 1.5 m of plain cotton fabric in white or soft blue for the envelope backs of the two shams (optional)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook, approximately 3.5 mm (size E/4)
  • 02
    Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
  • 03
    Sharp scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers for corners and edge midpoints
  • 05
    Blocking mats and rust-proof T-pins
  • 06
    Tape measure
  • 07
    Sewing needle and matching thread for attaching the sham backs
  • 08
    Two pillow forms, approximately 50 x 65 cm (20 x 26 in)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Flower Square (make 62: 50 for the bedspread, 12 for two shams) :

Info :

The finished bedspread is approximately 128 x 188 cm (50 x 74 in), each flower square is approximately 17 cm (6.7 in) across once blocked, and each pillow sham is approximately 52 x 69 cm (20.5 x 27 in). The bedspread uses 5 columns of 10 squares with 4 lace strips between them. To make it longer, add 2 squares to every column (12 per column), work the lace strip with a foundation of ch 278, repeat the bracket in Strip Row 2 and Row 4 137 times, and use 275 sc down each long edge in Border Round 1 with the repeat counts from the Border Info. To make it wider, add one more column and one more lace strip, and use 163 sc across each short edge in Border Round 1.

Round 1 :

Ch 4, sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in the ring, sl st to the top of the ch 3 (12 dc).

Round 2 :

Ch 1, sc in the same st, [ch 3, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc] 5 times, ch 3, sk last dc, sl st to the first sc (6 sc, 6 ch-3 sps).

Round 3 :

Sl st in the first ch-3 sp, ch 1, (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) in the same sp. Work (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) in each remaining ch-3 sp. Sl st to the first sc (6 petals, 54 sts).

Round 4 :

Sl st in each of the next 4 sts of the first petal to reach its center dc. Fold the petals forward and work this round behind them. Ch 1, sc in the same st, [ch 7, sk 8 sts, sc in the center dc of the next petal] 5 times, ch 7, sk 8 sts, sl st to the first sc (6 sc, 6 ch-7 sps).

Round 5 :

Ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in the first ch-7 sp, 12 dc in each of the next 5 ch-7 sps, sl st to the top of the ch 3 (72 dc).

Round 6 :

Ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 3, dc in the same st for the first corner. Dc in each of the next 17 sts. [(Dc, ch 3, dc) in next st, dc in each of the next 17 sts] 3 times. Sl st to the top of the ch 3 (76 dc, 4 ch-3 corner sps, 19 dc along each side between corner sps).

Round 7 :

Sl st in the first ch-3 corner sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in the same sp. [Dc in next dc, (ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc) 9 times, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-3 sp] 3 times. Dc in next dc, (ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in next dc) 9 times, sl st to the top of the ch 3 (48 dc, 36 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps).

Round 8 :

Sl st in the first ch-2 corner sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the same sp. [Sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp along the side (21 sc), (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch-2 sp] 3 times. Sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp along the last side (21 sc). Sl st to the first sc and fasten off (92 sc, 4 ch-2 corner sps). Each edge now has 23 sts from corner sc to corner sc.

— 2. Lace Strip (make 4) :

Info :

Each strip is approximately 6 cm (2.4 in) wide and matches the length of one column of 10 squares. Row 1 is worked into the foundation chain, so keep that chain loose.

Row 1 :

Ch 232. Dc in the 4th ch from the hook and in each ch across (230 dc, counting the skipped ch 3 as the first dc).

Row 2 :

Turn, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next st, [ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 114 times (116 dc, 114 ch-1 sps, 230 sts).

Row 3 :

Turn, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each dc and each ch-1 sp across (230 dc).

Row 4 :

Turn, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next st, [ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 114 times (116 dc, 114 ch-1 sps, 230 sts).

Row 5 :

Turn, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each dc and each ch-1 sp across (230 dc). Fasten off.

— 3. Joining the Bedspread Panel :

Info :

Build the bedspread from five columns of 10 squares each, then join the four lace strips between the columns so that a column sits on each outer side. The 23 edge sts of each square and the 230 sts of each strip edge match one to one.

Column Seam :

Place two squares with wrong sides together and edges aligned. Join yarn in the first edge sc, then sc through the back loops of both squares in each of the 23 edge sts (23 sc). Fasten off. Join further squares the same way until the column has 10 squares. Make 5 columns.

Strip Seam :

Place a strip against a column with wrong sides together, long edges aligned and ends matching. Join yarn at one end and sc through both layers in each of the 230 sts (230 sc). Fasten off. Join the other long edge of the strip to the next column the same way. Continue in the order column, strip, column, strip, column, strip, column, strip, column.

— 4. Bedspread Border :

Info :

The border has 3 rounds and is worked all the way around the joined panel. Short edges are the top and bottom, long edges are the sides. Place a stitch marker in each corner sp. For the longer version with 12 squares per column, use 275 sc down each long edge in Round 1, repeat the mesh bracket 138 times on each long side in Round 2, and work sc, then [5 dc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp] 69 times on each long side in Round 3. For the wider version, use 163 sc across each short edge, repeat the mesh bracket 82 times on each short side, and work sc, then [5 dc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp] 41 times on each short side.

Round 1 :

Join yarn in the ch-2 sp of an outer corner square. Ch 1, 3 sc in the corner sp. Sc evenly across the short edge (135 sc: 23 across each square edge and 5 across each strip end, working over the joins without extra sts). 3 sc in the next corner sp. Sc evenly down the long edge (231 sc, working 2 sc in one st near the middle to gain the extra st). 3 sc in the next corner sp. Sc 135 across the next short edge. 3 sc in the next corner sp. Sc 231 up the last long edge. Sl st to the first sc (744 sc).

Round 2 :

Sl st in the next sc (the corner center), ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in the same st. [Ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 68 times, ch 1, sk 1 st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the corner center st. [Ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 116 times, ch 1, sk 1 st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the corner center st. [Ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 68 times, ch 1, sk 1 st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the corner center st. [Ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 116 times, ch 1, sk 1 st, sl st to the top of the ch 3 (376 dc, 372 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps).

Round 3 :

Sl st in the first ch-2 corner sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc all in the same sp. Sc in next ch-1 sp, [5 dc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp] 34 times, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp. Sc in next ch-1 sp, [5 dc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp] 58 times, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp. Sc in next ch-1 sp, [5 dc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp] 34 times, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp. Sc in next ch-1 sp, [5 dc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp] 58 times, sl st to the top of the ch 3. Fasten off.

— 5. Pillow Sham Panel (make 2) :

Info :

Each sham front is made from 6 flower squares joined in 3 rows of 2. The back is a simple envelope-style fabric panel so the pillow slips in easily, and you can swap in a crocheted back if you prefer.

Row Seam :

Join 2 squares side by side with wrong sides together, working sc through the back loops of both squares in each of the 23 edge sts (23 sc). Make 3 rows of 2 squares.

Joining Rows :

Place two rows together with wrong sides together and long edges aligned. Sc through both layers in each of the 46 edge sts (46 sc). Join the third row the same way so the panel is 2 squares wide and 3 squares long.

— 6. Pillow Sham Border (make 2) :

Round 1 :

Join yarn in the ch-2 sp of an outer corner square. Ch 1, 3 sc in the corner sp. Sc evenly across the short edge (47 sc). 3 sc in the next corner sp. Sc evenly down the long edge (71 sc). 3 sc in the next corner sp. Sc 47 across the next short edge. 3 sc in the next corner sp. Sc 71 up the last long edge. Sl st to the first sc (248 sc).

Round 2 :

Sl st in the next sc (the corner center), ch 3 (counts as dc), ch 2, dc in the same st. [Ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 24 times, ch 1, sk 1 st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the corner center st. [Ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 36 times, ch 1, sk 1 st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the corner center st. [Ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 24 times, ch 1, sk 1 st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the corner center st. [Ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 36 times, ch 1, sk 1 st, sl st to the top of the ch 3 (128 dc, 124 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps).

Round 3 :

Sl st in the first ch-2 corner sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc all in the same sp. Sc in next ch-1 sp, [5 dc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp] 12 times, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp. Sc in next ch-1 sp, [5 dc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp] 18 times, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp. Sc in next ch-1 sp, [5 dc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp] 12 times, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp. Sc in next ch-1 sp, [5 dc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp] 18 times, sl st to the top of the ch 3. Fasten off.

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in every end on the squares and strips before seaming, running the tail through the sc stitches of Round 8 on the squares and through Row 3 of the strips so nothing shows through the lace.
  • Wet block each square, pinning the four corner ch-2 sps out to about 17 cm (6.7 in) with the petals fully open, and let them dry completely before joining.
  • Join the squares into 5 columns of 10 (23 sc per seam), then sew the 4 lace strips between the columns with 230 sc per seam, starting each seam at the top end so the columns stay level.
  • Work the 3-round border around the joined panel, placing a stitch marker in each corner and one at the middle of each edge, and check that the sc counts in Round 1 land on the markers before continuing.
  • Wet block the full bedspread on a large flat surface, pinning out each shell of Round 3 so the scallops lie smooth, and leave it until bone dry.
  • For each sham, block the panel to about 52 x 69 cm (20.5 x 27 in), cut two fabric pieces about 53 x 45 cm (21 x 17.7 in), hem one 53 cm edge on each, and overlap the hemmed edges by about 21 cm (8.3 in) so the back measures roughly 53 x 69 cm.
  • Pin the fabric back to the wrong side of the crochet panel, hemmed edges toward the middle, and hand sew all around just inside Round 2 of the border with small neat stitches.

Important Notes

  • 💡Make a test square first and block it. It should measure about 17 cm (6.7 in); if it’s larger or smaller, change hook size by 0.25 mm before you make more.
  • 💡Keep the squares in a labeled bag in batches of ten so every column is ready to join, and count them against the 50 needed for the bedspread and 12 for the shams.
  • 💡Mark the right side of each square with a small scrap of yarn so all squares face the same way when you join the columns.
  • 💡Join all squares in the same direction, with the same side facing you, so the seam ridges all lie on the same side of the bedspread.
  • 💡Buy all the yarn for the bedspread, strips, border, and shams in one go and check the dye lot, because a soft blue shows even slight shade differences in the lacy mesh.
  • 💡Cotton has no stretch, so use a loose hand on the ch 7 loops in Round 4 and on the lace strip foundation chain to keep the lace flat.
  • 💡Weave in the tail of each square as you finish it rather than saving all of them for the end.

Every square you finish is a little win, and before long you’ll have a stack of blue blossoms ready to join. Take your time with the seams, block with love, and enjoy watching the scalloped edge appear on your very own bedspread. When it’s finally spread across the bed, you’ll feel proud every time you walk in the room. Happy stitching, and enjoy every cozy moment! 🧶✨

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FAQs

Can I use a different yarn weight for this bedspread?

You can, but the pattern was written for DK weight cotton and a hook around 3.5 mm. Worsted weight makes each square larger than 17 cm (6.7 in), so you’d need fewer squares, while a finer thread makes the squares smaller and the lace strip foundation chain would need to change. Make one square and measure it before you commit.

How many squares do I need for the whole set?

The bedspread uses 50 flower squares in 5 columns of 10, and each pillow sham uses 6 squares, so a full set with two shams needs 62. If you’d like the bedspread longer, add 2 squares per column and use ch 278 for each lace strip.

Is this pattern suitable for a confident beginner?

If you’re comfortable with sc, dc, and joining in the round, you can manage it. The petal round and the Round 4 loops worked behind the petals are the trickiest parts, so crochet one square slowly and check it against the stitch counts before making the rest.

How do I stop the lace strips from being shorter than my columns?

Chain the 232 foundation loosely, or use a hook one size larger for Row 1 only. Before seaming, pin the strip to the column at both ends and at the middle, then ease the sts so the 230 edge sts match the 230 strip sts evenly.

Do I need to block the squares before joining them?

Yes, it makes a big difference. Wet blocking opens the petals and straightens the corner ch-2 sps, so the seams meet cleanly. Pin each square to about 17 cm (6.7 in) and let it dry fully before you start joining.

Can I make the pillow shams without a fabric back?

Yes. Work a second panel of 6 squares and the same 3-round border, then place the two panels wrong sides together and sc through both layers around three sides, insert the pillow, and close the fourth side. The envelope fabric back is simply quicker and lets you remove the pillow easily.