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Crochet Flower Granny Square Bedspread Pattern

Crochet Flower Granny Square Bedspread Pattern
3.9★Rating
10-15 HoursTime Needed
3.6KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Crochet Flower Granny Square Bedspread Pattern

Crochet Flower Granny Square Bedspread Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Make it for a new home, a wedding, or the guest room that always needs a little love. It drapes nicely over a queen bed and looks sweet with the matching sham fronts stacked on top.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Flower Granny Square Bedspread Pattern

I love that every square is its own tiny finished project, so I never feel stuck in a giant blanket. The moment the cream petals pop open against the green is my favorite bit, every time. Making the leaves while chatting or watching a show is oddly relaxing, and those little yellow centers make me smile every time I flip a square over.

Crochet Flower Granny Square Bedspread Pattern step 1 Crochet Flower Granny Square Bedspread Pattern step 2 Crochet Flower Granny Square Bedspread Pattern step 3 Crochet Flower Granny Square Bedspread Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

The first square of this bedspread taught me patience. I made it in the car on a long drive, and by the time I reached the eight petal flower I was hooked. Something about watching cream petals bloom against sage green feels almost like gardening with yarn.

Here's my best tip: keep a bag of finished squares and a bag of leaves going at the same time. When I'm too tired to count rounds, I make a leaf. When I'm fresh, I do the post stitch round, because that's the one that rewards a little focus.

I blocked my first stack of squares on a bath towel with a spray bottle, and I was amazed how much crisper the petals looked afterward. I did mine in batches of eight. Do it, I promise it's worth the extra evening.

If you want a different mood, try dusty rose squares with ivory flowers, or deep forest green with soft butter yellow petals. The fringe turns out lovely in any colorway, and I always trim it with my yarn scissors after hanging the spread on a chair so everything falls true.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ The cream petals can flop forward and get trapped under the green loops in Round 4, so push the petals toward you and work those loops from behind the flower.✗ The FPdc in Round 7 can pucker the square if you yank the yarn tight around each post, so keep your tension relaxed and make sure every post stitch stands straight.✗ Corners in Rounds 5 to 8 turn lopsided if one corner group has the wrong dc count or a missing ch 2, so check each corner against the stated counts before moving on.✗ When sewing the leaves, it's easy to crowd the pair too close to the flower or to each other, so pin all eight first and step back to check that the fan looks even.✗ Joining squares in the wrong order leaves seams that don't line up, so lay out the full grid of 7 across and 8 down before you start any slip stitch seams.✗ If you cut the fringe strands one at a time they come out different lengths, so wrap yarn around a stiff piece of cardboard and cut all the strands together before you attach any.

Crochet Flower Granny Square Bedspread Pattern

Picture a bed dressed in soft sage green, with a cream flower and a little golden heart in every square. You'll build this bedspread one motif at a time, and each square is small enough to tuck into a tote bag and take along. The raised post stitch rounds give the whole spread a cozy, woven-in texture. The long fringe along the sides and foot finishes it off like a treasured heirloom. There's even a matching sham front, so your whole bed feels pulled together.

Intermediate 10-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Flower Granny Square Bedspread Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 4,200 g of worsted weight cotton-blend yarn in soft sage green for the squares, leaves, border, and fringe
  • 02
    Approximately 250 g of worsted weight yarn in warm cream for the flower petals
  • 03
    About 30 g of worsted weight yarn in golden yellow for the flower centers
  • 04
    Approximately 300 g of extra sage green worsted weight yarn and a small amount of cream and yellow if you make the two matching sham fronts

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook, approximately 5 mm (US H-8)
  • 02
    Tapestry needle
  • 03
    Sharp scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers
  • 05
    Rust-proof pins
  • 06
    Blocking mats
  • 07
    Measuring tape
  • 08
    Stiff piece of cardboard about 12 cm (4.7 in) wide for measuring and cutting fringe strands

Progress Tracker

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— 1. Flower Center :

Info :

The finished bedspread is approximately 182 cm (72 in) wide and 208 cm (82 in) long before the fringe. It is made of 56 square motifs (7 across and 8 down), and each square measures approximately 26 cm (10 in). You will also make 8 leaves for every square. To make the spread wider, add one square column for roughly 26 cm (10 in) more width, and add 26 sc to each short edge of the border (25 dc plus 1 seam). To make it longer, add one square row for roughly 26 cm (10 in) more length, and add 26 sc to each long edge of the border.

Round 1 :

With golden yellow, make a mr. Ch 1, work 8 sc into the ring, join with a sl st to the first sc. Pull the tail to close the ring tightly and fasten off (8).

Round 2 :

Join cream with a sl st in any sc of Round 1. Ch 1, sc in the same st, ch 4. *Sc in the next sc, ch 4.* Repeat from * to * 7 times in total. Join with a sl st to the first sc (8 sc and 8 ch-4 sps).

Round 3 :

In each ch-4 sp work (sl st, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sl st) to make one petal. Make 8 petals in total, then fasten off (8 petals).

Info :

The cream petals will sit in front of the green loops in the next round. Push the petals toward you and work from behind so they stay on top.

Round 4 :

With the petals pushed forward, join sage green with a sl st in any unworked sc of Round 2. Ch 1, sc in the same st, ch 5. *Sc in the next sc of Round 2, ch 5.* Repeat from * to * 7 times in total. Join with a sl st to the first sc (8 sc and 8 ch-5 sps).

— 2. Square Body :

Round 5 :

Sl st into the first ch-5 sp. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in the same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in the same sp (first corner made). 5 dc in the next ch-5 sp. *(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-5 sp, 5 dc in the next ch-5 sp.* Repeat from * to * 3 times in total. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (44 dc and 4 corner ch-2 sps, 11 dc on each side).

Round 6 :

Sl st in each of the next 2 dc, then sl st into the first corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in the same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in the same sp. *Dc in each of the next 11 dc, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner ch-2 sp.* Repeat from * to * 3 times in total. Dc in each of the last 11 dc. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (68 dc and 4 corner ch-2 sps, 17 dc on each side).

Round 7 :

Sl st in each of the next 2 dc, then sl st into the first corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, dc in the same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in the same sp. *FPdc in each of the next 17 st, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner ch-2 sp.* Repeat from * to * 3 times in total. FPdc in each of the last 17 st. Where a st falls on the ch 3 of the previous round, work a regular dc into the top of that ch 3. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (84 st and 4 corner ch-2 sps, 21 st on each side).

Round 8 :

Sl st in the next dc, then sl st into the first corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, dc in the same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in the same sp. *Dc in each of the next 21 st, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner ch-2 sp.* Repeat from * to * 3 times in total. Dc in each of the last 21 st. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 and fasten off (100 dc and 4 corner ch-2 sps, 25 dc on each side).

— 3. Leaves (make 8 for each square) :

Info :

The leaves are made separately and sewn on, so you can stitch a big batch while you chat or watch a show. Each leaf is roughly 6 cm (2.4 in) long. If you'd like a fuller look, add a third leaf to each corner with the same instructions.

Foundation :

With sage green, ch 8.

Side 1 :

Sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, dc in each of the next 2 ch, hdc in the next ch.

Tip :

Work 3 sc in the last ch to turn the point of the leaf.

Side 2 :

Working in the free loops on the other side of the foundation ch, hdc in the next loop, dc in each of the next 2 loops, hdc in the next loop, sc in the next loop, sl st in the last loop. Fasten off, leaving a tail of about 20 cm (8 in) for sewing.

— 4. Bedspread Border :

Info :

Work the border after all the squares are joined. Treat the head end (the edge that goes under the pillows) just like the others. You'll add fringe to the foot and the two long sides only.

Round 1 :

With sage green, join with a sl st in any outer corner ch-2 sp. Ch 1, 3 sc in the same sp. *Sc in each dc across the edge and 1 sc at every seam, working through both corner ch-2 sps together, then 3 sc in the next outer corner sp.* Work 181 sc across each short edge and 207 sc along each long edge, with 3 sc in each of the 4 corners. Join with a sl st to the first sc (788 sc).

Round 2 :

Ch 1, sc in the same st and in each sc around, working 3 sc into the center sc of every corner trio. Join with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off (796 sc, with 183 sc across each short edge and 209 sc along each long edge between the corner trios).

— 5. Fringe :

Cut Strands :

Wrap sage green yarn around the cardboard and cut one end to make strands about 24 cm (9.5 in) long. You'll need roughly 600 strands (3 strands for each fringe, about 200 fringes).

Attach Fringe :

Fold 3 strands in half. Insert the hook from the front into a Border Round 2 sc, pull the folded loop through, then pull the tails through the loop and tighten. Repeat in every 3rd sc along the foot and both long sides, leaving the head edge bare. Trim the ends evenly once all the knots are in (about 61 fringes across the foot and about 70 along each long side).

— 6. Matching Sham Front (make 2) :

Info :

Make one motif through Round 8, then add the three extra rounds below. This gives a square of approximately 40 cm (16 in), which fits a standard 40 cm (16 in) pillow form. Sew 8 leaves on as for the bedspread squares, then stitch the finished front to a plain sage green back or a cushion cover.

Round 9 :

Join sage green with a sl st in any corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, dc in the same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in the same sp. *Dc in each of the next 25 st, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner ch-2 sp.* Repeat from * to * 3 times in total. Dc in each of the last 25 st. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (116 dc and 4 corner ch-2 sps, 29 dc on each side).

Round 10 :

Sl st in the next dc, then sl st into the first corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, dc in the same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in the same sp. *Dc in each of the next 29 st, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner ch-2 sp.* Repeat from * to * 3 times in total. Dc in each of the last 29 st. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 (132 dc and 4 corner ch-2 sps, 33 dc on each side).

Round 11 :

Sl st in the next dc, then sl st into the first corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3, dc in the same sp, ch 2, 2 dc in the same sp. *Dc in each of the next 33 st, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner ch-2 sp.* Repeat from * to * 3 times in total. Dc in each of the last 33 st. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 and fasten off (148 dc and 4 corner ch-2 sps, 37 dc on each side).

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in all ends on the wrong side of every square, then wet or steam block each one to approximately 26 cm (10 in) square, pinning the corners so Rounds 5 to 8 sit sharp and the FPdc ridges of Round 7 stay raised.
  • Sew 8 leaves to each square before joining. Pin two leaves to every Round 5 corner: put the base of the first leaf at the last dc before the corner ch-2 sp and the base of the second at the first dc after it, with the tips fanning toward the Round 8 corner. Check the spacing from a few steps back, then sew down the base and midpoint of each leaf.
  • Lay out the squares 7 across and 8 down. Join them into 8 strips of 7 first. Hold two squares with right sides together and sl st through the back loops of both along the 25 dc edge, working the first and last sl st through the corner ch-2 sps.
  • Join the 8 strips together the same way, matching the seams so the corners meet in a neat plus sign. At every four-way junction, work one sl st through all four corner ch-2 sps so there's no gap.
  • Work Border Rounds 1 and 2 around the whole bedspread, then attach the fringe to the foot and both long sides, leaving the head edge bare.
  • Wet block the finished bedspread flat, pinning it to approximately 182 cm (72 in) wide and 208 cm (82 in) long, and let it dry fully before you trim the fringe evenly.

Important Notes

  • 💡Make one square first and measure it after blocking. If it's smaller or larger than 26 cm (10 in), change your hook size by one step before you make the rest.
  • 💡Buy all your sage green yarn at the same time and check the dye lot, because a color shift across 56 squares shows up in the finished spread.
  • 💡Work the post stitches of Round 7 around the posts of the dc from Round 6 and keep your tension loose so the square doesn't pull in.
  • 💡Sort the finished squares and leaves into labeled bags so you can lay out the full grid before joining.
  • 💡Count the corner groups after every round (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in Rounds 5 and 6, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc from Round 7 on), because one wrong corner throws off the whole side.
  • 💡Cut and attach the fringe last, and hang the spread over a chair before trimming so the strands fall evenly.
  • 💡If you make the shams, keep the sham fronts to a plain back so they sit flat and the leaves stay crisp.

Every square you finish is a little bit of garden you get to keep. Before long they'll become a cozy sage green bedspread you can spread across your own bed or give to someone dear. Take your time, enjoy the rhythm of petals and leaves, and don't rush the fringe, because it's the finishing touch that makes everyone stop and stare. Happy hooking, and I can't wait to see how yours blooms! 🧶🌿✨

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FAQs

Can I use a different yarn weight for this bedspread?

You can, but the numbers here are built around worsted weight yarn and a 5 mm hook, which gives a 26 cm (10 in) square. A lighter yarn makes smaller squares, so you'd need more of them, while a bulkier yarn makes a heavier spread. Make one square first, measure it, and work out how many squares you need to reach the size you want.

How do I make the bedspread bigger or smaller?

Each square adds about 26 cm (10 in) in either direction. For a twin, try 5 across and 7 down. For a king, go to 8 across and 8 down. Each extra square adds 26 sc to that edge of the border (25 dc plus 1 seam), so adjust the stitch counts in Border Round 1 to match.

Why are the leaves sewn on instead of crocheted into the square?

Making the leaves separately lets you shape them neatly and place each pair exactly where you want. It also means you can crochet a big batch at any time. Pin them first, then sew down the base and midpoint so they lie flat.

How do I keep the cream petals in front of the green loops?

Before you start Round 4, push the petals toward you and work the green sc and ch 5 loops into the unworked sc of Round 2, behind the petals. The loops then sit behind the flower, and the petals stay on top.

Do I have to block the squares?

Yes, it's worth the effort. Blocking makes the squares the same size so the seams line up, opens up the petals, and makes the FPdc ridges stand out. Pin each square to 26 cm (10 in), spritz with water or steam it, and let it dry flat before joining.

Is this bedspread hard for someone who's used to basic stitches?

If you're comfortable with dc and sl st, you can manage it. The new bits are the FPdc round, the petal stitches, and shaping the leaves, and each one is only a few steps. Make a single square first to get comfortable before committing to all 56.