Can I make this pattern without using the cotter pin for the head?

Absolutely! While the cotter pin allows the head to turn in different directions, you can simply sew the head directly to the body if you prefer a simpler construction. The dinosaur will still be adorable and sturdy without the movable head feature.

Is the wire in the tail necessary for this pattern?

No, the wire is completely optional. The pattern specifically notes that wire should be used with caution and is not safe for babies and young children. If you skip the wire, simply stuff the tail firmly with fiberfill instead for a fixed-position tail that's safer for little ones.

What does it mean to split Yarn C in half for the spikes and plates?

Splitting the yarn means separating the plies or strands that make up the yarn so you're working with a thinner weight. This creates more delicate, properly-scaled spikes and plates using the smaller 1.5mm hook. It gives better proportion to these smaller details.

How do I do the thread-bracing technique for attaching the legs?

Thread-bracing involves using a long needle and thread to pass through the body and both legs multiple times, creating a strong connection. The pattern includes detailed step-by-step instructions with 13 steps showing exactly how to position and secure each leg so your dinosaur stands steadily.

Can I use different yarn brands than the ones suggested?

Yes! The pattern notes you can choose completely different yarn than suggested. Just make sure to use sport weight yarn for similar results, and adjust your hook size accordingly to achieve a tight gauge where stuffing doesn't show through your stitches.

Why does the neck need to be stuffed so tightly?

The neck supports the entire weight of the head, especially when using the cotter pin system for movement. Firm stuffing in the neck ensures the head doesn't droop and maintains its position well. This is crucial for the structural integrity of your finished dinosaur.

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Create your own adorable armored friend with this charming Ankylosaurus Bruno crochet pattern! This delightful dinosaur features incredible details including movable spikes, articulated plates along his back, and a poseable tail with an optional wire armature. Standing at 7cm tall and 12cm long, Bruno combines the fierce appearance of a prehistoric tank with an irresistibly cute personality. The pattern includes advanced techniques like thread-bracing for sturdy limbs and a cotter pin system for head movement, making this project both challenging and rewarding. Perfect for dinosaur lovers and amigurumi enthusiasts who want to create a truly special handmade companion.

Advanced 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

01
Yarnart Jeans (Sport weight, 160m/50gr) in color A for main body
02
Alize Cotton Gold Batik (Sport weight, 330m/100gr) in color B for body sections
03
Alize Cotton Gold Tweed (Sport weight, 330m/100gr) in color C for muzzle, neck, plates and spikes
04
Black, white and pink embroidery thread mouline for facial features
05
White, red and yellow yarn for optional popcorn bucket bonus project

— Tools Required

01
Crochet hook 1.75mm (for main dinosaur body)
02
Crochet hook 1.5mm (for cheeks, spikes and plates)
03
10mm safety eyes
04
2 pins or stitch markers
05
Needles for cutting with bead on end (for fixing parts)
06
Polyester fiberfill (synthepus) for stuffing
07
Scissors
08
Yarn needle (blunt tapestry needle)
09
Sewing needle
10
Round-nose pliers
11
T-shaped cotter pin 25x2.0mm
12
Shim washer 3x20mm
13
Disk 20mm diameter
14
Steel wire 1.6mm diameter (optional for tail)
15
Electrical tape
16
White cardboard, white felt, super glue and coin (for bonus bucket)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— HEAD :

Yarn A

Starting chain foundation

Row 1 :

11 loops, turning, 10sc starting from 2nd loop from hook (10l)

Row 2 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 8sc, inc (12l)

Row 3 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc (12l)

Row 4 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 10sc, inc (14l)

Row 5 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc only through front loops (14l)

Row 6-7 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc (14l)

Row 8 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 10sc, dec (12l)

Row 9 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc only through front loops (12l)

Row 10-11 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc (12l)

Row 12 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 10sc, inc (14l)

Row 13 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc only through front loops (14l)

Row 14-15 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc (14l)

Row 16 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 10sc, dec (12l)

Row 17 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc only through front loops (12l)

Row 18 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 8sc, dec (10l)

Row 19 :

1 loop, turning, [dec]x2, 2sc, [dec]x2 (6l)

Row 20 :

1 loop, turning, 6sc (6l)

Row 21 :

1 loop, turning, 6sc only through front loops (6l)

Row 22 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 2sc, dec (4l)

Info :

Change to yarn B. Crochet part of sc half with yarn A and half with yarn B for beautiful color transition

Row 23 :

Crochet around perimeter counter-clockwise from start point: 22sc up, 10sc straight, 22sc down, 4sc straight (58l)

Info :

Cut yarn A, continue with yarn B only

Round 24 :

4sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 18sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 8sc (54l)

Round 25-27 :

54sc (54l)

Round 28 :

[7sc, dec]x6 (48l)

Round 29 :

[6sc, dec]x6 (42l)

Round 30 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Round 31 :

[sc, dec]x12 (24l)

— MUZZLE :

Yarn C

Using hook 1.75mm

Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc starting from 2nd loop from hook, 4sc from back of chain (8l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x4 (12l)

Round 3 :

12sc, sl st in 1st sc (12l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread leaving long end for sewing. Sew muzzle to head as shown in photo

Infos :

Insert safety eyes between rounds 26-27, approximately 12 stitches apart. Do not fix yet. Using black thread mouline, embroider loose stitch above eye, then fasten in middle. Add second loose stitch 1mm higher for oval shape. Using white thread mouline, embroider loose stitch below eye. Press eye to embroidered line and fasten. Embroider nostrils and mouth with black thread. Cut 2 pieces black thread 0.5cm long, attach to forehead symmetrically and embroider eyebrows

— CHEEKS (Make 2) :

Pink thread mouline, hook 1.5mm

Crocheting cheeks

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (magic ring), sl st in 1st sc (6l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread leaving long end. Sew cheeks to head with wrong side outward. Start stuffing head with fiberfill

Round 32 :

[dec]x12 (12l)

Info :

Completely fill head. Insert cotter pin into shim. Place cotter pin between rounds 31-32 of head

Round 33 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Trim thread. Pass thread through all loops with yarn needle. Tighten and secure

— SPIKES :

Yarn C, hook 1.5mm

Split yarn C in half

Small Spikes (Make 2) :

Round 1: 2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop (4l)

Round 2 :

4sc (4l)

Round 3 :

[inc]x4 (8l)

Round 4 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (10l)

Round 5 :

10sc (10l)

Round 6 :

[4sc, inc]x2 (12l)

Round 7-8 :

12sc (12l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread leaving long end. Slightly stuff spikes with fiberfill and sew to head

Big Spikes (Make 2) :

Round 1: 2 loops, 3sc in 2nd loop (3l)

Round 2 :

sc, inc, sc (4l)

Round 3 :

[sc, inc]x2 (6l)

Round 4 :

[inc]x6 (12l)

Round 5 :

[2sc, inc]x4 (16l)

Round 6 :

16sc (16l)

Round 7 :

[7sc, inc]x2 (18l)

Round 8-9 :

18sc (18l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread leaving long end. Slightly stuff spikes and sew to head

— TAIL :

Yarn A

Tail club crocheted in two identical details

First Detail - Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (6l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x3 (9l)

Round 3 :

9sc (9l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread. Crochet second detail same way, do not cut thread

Round 6 (incomplete) :

Connect details by inserting hook into first detail (inside to outside), then into second detail (outside to inside). Crochet 3sc of first detail together with 3sc of second detail, then 6sc along second detail

Round 7 :

Crochet 6sc on first part, 6sc on second part (12l)

Round 6 :

[4sc, dec]x2 (10l)

Info :

Slightly stuff tail with fiberfill

Round 7 :

[3sc, dec]x2 (8l)

Round 8 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6l)

Round 9-10 :

6sc (6l)

Round 11 :

sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (8l)

Round 12 :

8sc (8l)

Round 13 :

2sc, [inc]x2, 4sc (10l)

Round 14 :

10sc (10l)

Round 15 :

3sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (12l)

Round 16 :

5sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (14l)

Round 17 :

7sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (16l)

Round 18 :

8sc, [inc]x2, 6sc (18l)

Infos :

Optional: Cut wire approximately 12cm. Twist one end into loop, other end into ring equal to tail opening using pliers. Wrap twisting place with electrical tape. Insert crocheted tail onto wire. Crochet and fix wire at three points to tail every 6th sc in next round. If not using wire, stuff tail with fiberfill

Round 19 :

18sc (18l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread. Mark with pin where tail connects to back - move pin to 12th loop right from beginning of round

— BODY - BACK :

Yarn A

Starting back section

Row 1 :

14 loops, turning, 13sc starting from 2nd loop from hook (13l)

Row 2 :

1 loop, turning, 13sc (13l)

Row 3 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 11sc, inc (15l)

Row 4 :

1 loop, turning, 15sc only through front loops (15l)

Row 5 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 13sc, inc (17l)

Row 6 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc (17l)

Row 7 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 15sc, inc (19l)

Row 8 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc only through front loops (19l)

Row 9-11 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc (19l)

Row 12 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc only through front loops (19l)

Row 13 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc (19l)

Row 14 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 15sc, dec (17l)

Row 15 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc (17l)

Row 16 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc only through front loops (17l)

Row 17 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 13sc, dec (15l)

Row 18 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 11sc, dec (13l)

Row 19 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 9sc, dec (11l)

Row 20 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 7sc, dec only through front loops (9l)

Row 21 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 5sc, dec (7l)

Row 22 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 3sc, dec (5l)

Info :

Connect back with tail. Insert hook into tail (inside to outside), then into back (outside to inside)

Row 23 :

1 loop, turning, crochet 5sc of back together with 5sc of tail

Info :

Change to yarn B. Crochet part of sc half with yarn A and half with yarn B for beautiful color transition

Round 24 :

Crochet around perimeter counter-clockwise from start: 22sc, 13sc, 22sc on back; 13sc on tail (70l)

Info :

Sew holes between tail and back using extra thread. Cut yarn A, continue with yarn B only

Round 25-27 :

70sc (70l)

Round 28 :

[5sc, dec]x10 (60l)

Round 29 :

[8sc, dec]x6 (54l)

— NECK :

Yarn C

Starting neck section

Row 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc starting from 2nd loop from hook (4l)

Row 2 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 2sc, inc (6l)

Row 3 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 4sc, inc (8l)

Row 4 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 6sc, inc (10l)

Row 5-9 :

10sc (10l)

Round 10 :

Crochet around perimeter counter-clockwise from start: 8sc down, 4sc straight, 8sc up, 10sc straight (30l)

Info :

Mark where neck connects to body - move pin 1 loop right from beginning of round. Cut and fix thread. Change to yarn C

Info :

Connect body with neck. Insert hook into neck (inside to outside), then into body (outside to inside)

Round 30 :

Crochet 9sc, dec, 7sc along body; crochet 10sc of body together with 10sc of neck; then 2sc, dec, [9sc, dec]x2 along body (60l)

Round 31-33 :

60sc (60l)

Info :

Insert cotter pin between rows 6-7 of neck in middle. Put disk on cotter pin and wrap ends in rings with pliers

Round 34 :

[3sc, dec]x12 (48l)

Round 35 :

[2sc, dec]x12 (36l)

Info :

Start stuffing body with fiberfill

Round 36 :

[sc, dec]x12 (24l)

Round 37 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 38 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Infos :

Completely fill body. Important: Neck should be stuffed very tightly so dinosaur holds head well. Tip: Cut circle of white felt slightly larger than hole. Insert into hole so fiberfill doesn't cling to hook during closing

Round 39 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Trim thread. Pass thread through all loops with yarn needle. Tighten and secure. Sew holes between neck and body using extra thread

— PLATES :

Yarn C, hook 1.5mm

Split yarn C in half

Small Plates (Make 8) :

Round 1: 2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop (4l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x2 (6l)

Round 3 :

6sc (6l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread leaving long end for sewing

Middle Plates (Make 10) :

Round 1: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop (6l)

Round 2 :

[2sc, inc]x2 (8l)

Round 3 :

8sc (8l)

Round 4 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (10l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread leaving long end for sewing

Big Plates (Make 4) :

Round 1: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop (6l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x3 (9l)

Round 3 :

[2sc, inc]x3 (12l)

Round 4-5 :

12sc (12l)

Info :

Slightly stuff plates with fiberfill. Cut and fix thread leaving long end. Sew plates to back, placing them on lines of remaining back loops in checkerboard pattern

— LEGS :

Front Legs (Make 2) - Yarn B

Starting front leg

Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc starting from 2nd loop from hook, 4sc from back of chain (8l)

Round 2 :

3sc in next loop, 6sc, 3sc in next loop (12l)

Round 3 :

Only through back loops 12sc (12l)

Round 4-5 :

[inc]x2, 3sc, sc3tog, 4sc (12l)

Round 6 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 7 :

12sc (12l)

Info :

Start stuffing leg with fiberfill

Round 8 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 9-14 :

12sc (12l)

Round 15 :

[sc, dec]x4 (8l)

Info :

Completely fill leg

Round 16 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6l)

Info :

Trim thread. Pass through all loops with yarn needle. Tighten and secure

Back Legs (Make 2) - Yarn B

Starting back leg

Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc starting from 2nd loop from hook, 4sc from back of chain (8l)

Round 2 :

3sc in next loop, 6sc, 3sc in next loop (12l)

Round 3 :

Only through back loops 12sc (12l)

Round 4-5 :

[inc]x2, 3sc, sc3tog, 4sc (12l)

Round 6 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 7 :

12sc (12l)

Info :

Start stuffing leg with fiberfill

Round 8 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 9-12 :

12sc (12l)

Round 13 :

[sc, dec]x4 (8l)

Info :

Completely fill leg

Round 14 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6l)

Info :

Trim thread. Pass through all loops with yarn needle. Tighten and secure

Toes (Make 3 on each leg) :

Yarn C in two folds - Embroider 3 toes on each leg with French knot

— BONUS - POPCORN BUCKET :

Bucket - Yarn C

Starting bucket

Round 1 :

2 loops, 10sc in 2nd loop from hook (10l)

Round 2 :

[inc]x10 (20l)

Round 3 :

[4sc, inc]x4 (24l)

Round 4 :

24sc only through back loops (24l)

Round 5 :

[5sc, inc]x4 (28l)

Round 6 :

[6sc, inc]x4 (32l)

Round 7 :

[7sc, inc]x4 (36l)

Round 8 :

36sc (36l)

Round 9 :

[8sc, inc]x4 (40l)

Round 10 :

40sc (40l)

Round 11 :

[9sc, inc]x4 (44l)

Round 12 :

44sc (44l)

Round 13 :

[10sc, inc]x4 (48l)

Round 14 :

48sc only through back loops (48l)

Info :

Cut and fix thread

Infos :

Embroider red stripes using red yarn in 2 folds. Insert needle into each loop from bottom and through one from top. Embroider white stripes between red ones using Yarn C in 2 folds. Cut circle from white cardboard with diameter equal to bucket height plus bottom, make cuts from 2 sides. Push through bottom line using needle back and coin. Fold cardboard and place inside bucket

Bucket Top - Yarn C

Starting top section

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (6l)

Round 2 :

[inc]x6 (12l)

Round 3 :

[inc]x12 (24l)

Round 4 :

[inc]x24 (48l)

Round 5-7 :

48sc (48l)

Infos :

Cut and fix thread leaving very long end for sewing. Sew top to bucket. While sewing, slightly stuff bucket with fiberfill. Put together strand of yarn C and yellow yarn and embroider popcorn with French knots on surface. Circle coin with pencil on white felt. Embroider word POPCORN with black thread inside circle. Cut out circle and glue to bucket with superglue

Assembly Instructions

Attach front legs to body between rounds 29-30 using thread-bracing technique, spacing them approximately 24 stitches apart as viewed from above
Attach back legs to body between rounds 25-26 using same thread-bracing method, spacing them approximately 16 stitches apart
Use needles for cutting to position legs temporarily and check that dinosaur stands steadily before final sewing
Thread needle through body and each leg multiple times for strength, passing through two loops on inner leg surface
Sew any remaining holes between tail and back sections using extra thread for clean finish
Sew holes between neck and body sections using extra thread to ensure smooth connection
Position small, medium, and large plates along back in checkerboard pattern on remaining back loop lines as shown in photos

Important Notes

💡The cotter pin system allows head movement but can be replaced with simple sewing if preferred for easier construction
💡Wire in tail is optional and should not be used if making toy for babies or young children due to safety concerns
💡Neck must be stuffed extremely firmly to support head weight and maintain posable positioning throughout use
💡Use stitch markers consistently to track rounds, especially during color changes and when working around perimeters
💡Split yarn C in half when crocheting spikes and plates with smaller 1.5mm hook for proper scale and texture
💡White felt circle tip helps prevent stuffing from catching on hook when closing final rounds of body
💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper leg placement and balance for standing

This charming Ankylosaurus Bruno pattern brings prehistoric wonder to life with incredible attention to detail and advanced construction techniques. From his embroidered facial expressions to his articulated plated back and optional poseable tail, every element has been thoughtfully designed to create a character bursting with personality. The bonus popcorn bucket accessory adds a delightful storytelling element that makes Bruno even more special. While this pattern challenges your skills with cotter pins, thread-bracing, and intricate assembly, the reward is an heirloom-quality amigurumi that will be treasured for years to come. 🦕✨

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Advanced Level

All-Day Adventure

Charming Critter

About This Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Why You'll Love This Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Switch Things Up

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them