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Adorable Panda Amigurumi Pattern

Adorable Panda Amigurumi Pattern
4.1★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
1.4K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic knitting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive knitting.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Adorable Panda Amigurumi Pattern

This enchanting panda pattern combines classic amigurumi techniques with articulated limbs for extra playability. Working with soft velvet-like yarn in cream and black, you'll create a poseable friend complete with embroidered facial features and optional wire armature. The pattern includes detailed instructions for attaching plastic joints or cotter pins, giving your panda movable arms and legs that can be positioned in various adorable poses.

Adorable Panda Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The finishing touch is a cozy striped sweater in mint and dark green colors with functional button closures. This removable outfit adds personality and charm while allowing you to customize your panda's look.

Why You'll Love This Adorable Panda Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it brings together so many satisfying techniques in one project! The combination of sculptural shaping and functional joint assembly makes this panda feel like a true toy rather than just a decoration. I'm particularly fond of the embroidered facial details that give each panda its own unique personality, and the removable sweater adds such a sweet touch that makes this pattern feel extra special. The clear instructions for both plastic joints and cotter pin methods mean you can choose the technique that works best for your skill level and intended use.

Adorable Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Adorable Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Adorable Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Adorable Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how versatile this panda pattern is - there are so many ways to make it uniquely yours! While the pattern calls for cream and black, I've experimented with creating red pandas using rusty orange and dark brown, and they turn out incredibly charming. You could even try a pastel rainbow panda for a whimsical twist!

The sweater is where I really let my creativity shine. Instead of the mint and dark green stripes, I've made versions with fair isle patterns, added embroidered flowers, or even created seasonal outfits like a tiny Halloween costume or Christmas sweater. The removable clothing means you can build an entire wardrobe for your panda over time.

I sometimes skip the plastic joints entirely for a simpler sewn version when making these for very young children, which cuts down on construction time and eliminates small parts. For display pieces, I love using the wire armature option because it allows for dramatic poses that really bring the character to life.

The facial expression is another area where small changes make a huge impact. Moving the eye placement slightly higher or lower, adjusting the eyebrow angle, or making the nose slightly bigger or smaller gives each panda its own personality. I recommend making the eye spots and positioning them with pins before sewing to find the perfect expression.

For an extra special touch, I sometimes add a bamboo stick accessory made from green felt and wire, or create a tiny pillow for the panda to hold. These little additions take just minutes but make wonderful finishing touches that really complete the whole presentation.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Mistake: Not keeping the marker positioned correctly at the back center of legs, leading to misaligned joint placement and crooked limbs ✗ Mistake: Overstuffing the upper portions of limbs before inserting joints, which prevents proper movement and creates stiff uncomfortable joints ✗ Mistake: Failing to use sewing pins to position pieces before final attachment, resulting in asymmetrical features and unbalanced appearance ✗ Mistake: Pulling eye threads too tightly when installing safety eyes, causing deep indentations and distorting the head shape unnaturally

Adorable Panda Amigurumi Pattern

Create your own cuddly panda friend with this charming amigurumi pattern! This delightful 16cm panda features movable limbs with joints, expressive embroidered details, and comes complete with an adorable striped sweater. Perfect for gift-giving or adding to your handmade collection, this pattern guides you through crafting a sweet companion that captures the lovable essence of these gentle giants. The detailed instructions ensure your panda turns out perfectly huggable every time.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Adorable Panda Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fine/4ply yarn Katia Velvet Fine 50g/160m (100% polyester) in cream (200), black (211), dark green (444), and mint green (439)
  • 02
    Alternative: Fine/4ply yarn YarnArt Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) in corresponding colors

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2mm
  • 02
    Polyester toy filling (fiberfill)
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Sewing pins
  • 05
    Safety eyes with loop 6-7mm (2pcs)
  • 06
    DMC embroidering floss in black and white colors
  • 07
    Plastic joints size 25mm for hind legs (2pcs) or cotter pins 20*2mm (4pcs) with disks 25mm (4pcs)
  • 08
    Plastic joints size 15mm for forelegs (2pcs) or cotter pins 20*2mm (4pcs) with disks 15mm (4pcs)
  • 09
    Round nose pliers (for cotter pins)
  • 10
    Wire for frame diameter 0.9mm - 20cm (optional)
  • 11
    Blush or dry peach pastel for tinting
  • 12
    Buttons size 5mm (3pcs)
  • 13
    Stitch markers

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc)*6 (66)

Round 12-13 :

66sc (2 rounds)

Round 14 :

(21sc, inc)*3 (69)

Round 15-16 :

69sc (2 rounds)

Round 17 :

11sc, inc, (22sc, inc)*2, 11sc (72)

Round 18-19 :

72sc (2 rounds)

Round 20 :

(23sc, inc)*3 (75)

Round 21 :

75sc (75)

Round 22 :

12sc, inc, (24sc, inc)*2, 12sc (78)

Round 23-27 :

78sc (5 rounds)

Round 28 :

(11sc, dec)*6 (72)

Round 29 :

5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)

Round 30 :

(9sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 31 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)

Round 32 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 33 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, 2sc (40)

Round 34 :

(3sc, dec)*8 (32)

Round 35 :

(2sc, dec)*8 (24)

Round 36 :

(1sc, dec)*8 (16)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces. Work with cream yarn. Stuff as you go.

— Eye Spots (make 2) :

Round 1 :

Work with black yarn. Ch6, start on the second chain from the hook: 4sc, 3sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 3sc, inc (12)

Round 2 :

inc, 3sc, 3inc, 3sc, 2inc (18)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*3, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (24)

Round 4 :

2sc, inc, 3sc, (2sc, inc)*3, 3sc, (2sc, inc)*2 (30)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces.

— Face Assembly :

Infos :

Attach the eye spots to the head with sewing pins and sew. Using an embroidering floss (2 strands), embroider the eyebrows and mouth. Using an embroidering floss (full thread), embroider the nose (4-5 stitches). With sewing pins mark the place of sewing on the eyes. Take the eye D6-7mm and thread the thread into the loop. Pass both threads into the needle and insert it into the points marked with sewing pins and exit it through the back of the head. Repeat the same with the second eye (NOTE! Exit the threads of the first and second eyes at one point behind). Lightly pull the threads and tie together in a knot. Hide the ends inside the head. Using a white embroidering floss (full thread), embroider the whites of the eyes. Tint the cheeks with blush or peach-colored pastel.

— Ears (make 2) :

Round 1 :

Work with black yarn. Do not stuff. 6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(2sc, inc)*4 (16)

Round 4-7 :

16sc (4 rounds)

Info :

Fold in half and crochet 8sc through both sides. Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces. Attach the ears to the head with sewing pins (in an arc, not a straight line) and sew.

— Forelegs (make 2) :

Round 1 :

Work with black yarn. The marker of the beginning of the round passes behind the leg in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. 6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(1sc, inc)*3 (9)

Round 3 :

(2sc, inc)*3 (12)

Round 4-6 :

12sc (3 rounds)

Round 7 :

6sc, inc, 5sc (13)

Round 8 :

13sc (13)

Round 9 :

6sc, inc, 6sc (14)

Round 10 :

14sc (14)

Round 11 :

7sc, inc, 6sc (15)

Round 12 :

7sc, inc, 7sc (16)

Round 13 :

16sc (16)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff tightly only the lower part. At this stage, you need to make sure that the marker is located at the back of the leg in the middle.

Left foreleg Round 14 :

11sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16)

Left foreleg Round 15 :

11sc, 2sc on the chain, 3sc (16)

Right foreleg Round 14 :

3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 11sc (16)

Right foreleg Round 15 :

3sc, 2sc on the chain, 11sc (16)

For plastic joints Round 14-15 :

16sc (2 rounds)

Info :

For plastic joints: 4sc to the left (for the right foreleg) or 4sc to the right (for the left foreleg). Cut the yarn. Pull off the hole and hide the ends. For cotter pins: Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk D15mm suits me). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and from the marker. Insert a disk with a cotter pin at the marked point in the hole that was done. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part of the leg slightly.

Round 16 :

(2sc, dec)*4 (12)

Round 17 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces.

— Hind Legs (make 2) :

Round 1 :

Work with black yarn. Ch5, start on the second chain from the hook: 3sc, 4sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 2sc, inc (11)

Round 2 :

inc, 2sc, 3sc inc, 2sc, 3sc inc, 2sc, 2inc (18)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 3sc, 3sc inc, 4sc, 3sc inc, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (25)

Round 4 :

25sc (25)

Round 5 :

24sc - short round (you may have a different number of stitches). Move the marker. It should go behind the leg, in the center of the heel. Guideline - a straight line of the foundation chain. In the process align the marker by crocheting extra stitches.

Round 6 :

8sl st, 9sc, 8sl st (25)

Round 7 :

5sc, (1sc, dec)*5, 5sc (20)

Round 8 :

5sc, 5dec, 5sc (15)

Round 9 :

6sc, sc3tog, 6sc (13)

Round 10 :

6sc, inc, 6sc (14)

Round 11 :

14sc (14)

Round 12 :

7sc, inc, 6sc (15)

Round 13 :

15sc (15)

Round 14 :

7sc, inc, 7sc (16)

Round 15 :

(7sc, inc)*2 (18)

Round 16 :

(8sc, inc)*2 (20)

Round 17 :

20sc (20)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff tightly only the lower part (foot). At this stage, you need to make sure that the marker is located at the back of the leg in the middle.

Left hind leg Round 18 :

12sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (20)

Left hind leg Round 19 :

12sc, 2sc on the chain, 6sc (20)

Right hind leg Round 18 :

6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 12sc (20)

Right hind leg Round 19 :

6sc, 2sc on the chain, 12sc (20)

For plastic joints Round 18-19 :

20sc (2 rounds)

Info :

For plastic joints: 7sc to the left (for the right hind leg) or 7sc to the right (for the left hind leg). Cut the yarn. Pull off the hole and hide the ends. For cotter pins: Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk D25mm suits me). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and from the marker. Insert a disk with a cotter pin at the marked point in the hole that was done. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part of the leg slightly.

Round 20-21 :

20sc (2 rounds)

Round 22 :

(8sc, dec)*2 (18)

Round 23 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 24 :

6dec (6)

— Body :

Round 1 :

Start crocheting with cream yarn. The marker of the beginning of the round will be placed at the back in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. 7sc in a MR (7)

Round 2 :

7inc (14)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*7 (21)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*6, 1sc (28)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*7 (35)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*6, 2sc (42)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*7 (49)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*6, 3sc (56)

Round 9-10 :

56sc (2 rounds)

For plastic joints Round 11 :

In round 11 crochet the holes for the hind legs with plastic joints: 12sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 28sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 12sc (56)

For plastic joints Round 12 :

12sc, 2sc on the chain, 28sc, 2sc on the chain, 12sc (56)

For cotter pins Round 11 :

56sc (mark the space between stitches 13 and 14 and the space between stitches 43 and 44 with a thread in a contrasting color for convenience) (56)

For cotter pins Round 12 :

56sc (56)

Round 13-16 :

56sc (4 rounds)

Round 17 :

13sc, dec, 26sc, dec, 13sc (54)

Round 18 :

54sc (54)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the hind legs into the marked points / crocheted holes of ch2 in the body and secure/snap.

Round 19 :

18sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 18sc (50)

Round 20 :

50sc (50)

Round 21 :

22sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 22sc (48)

Round 22 :

7sc, dec, (14sc, dec)*2, 7sc (45)

Info :

Change color to black, cut the cream yarn.

For plastic joints Round 23 :

In round 23 crochet the holes for the forelegs with plastic joints: 10sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 21sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 10sc (45)

For plastic joints Round 24 :

10sc, 2sc on the chain, 1sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 3sc, 2sc on the chain, 8sc, dec (42)

For cotter pins Round 23 :

45sc (45) (mark the space between stitches 11 and 12 and the space between stitches 34 and 35 with a thread in a contrasting color)

For cotter pins Round 24 :

(13sc, dec)*3 (42)

Round 25-26 :

42sc (2 rounds)

Round 27 :

6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)

Round 28 :

(11sc, dec)*2 (36)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the forelegs into the marked points / crocheted holes of ch2 in the body and secure/snap. Stuff the body gradually with fiberfill.

Round 29 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*5, 2sc (30)

Round 30 :

(3sc, dec)*6 (24)

Round 31 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 32 :

(7sc, dec)*2 (16)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off and hide the ends inside. If desired, you can make a wire frame. Take a D1mm wire and fold it in half, as shown in the photo. Wrap the junction of the two ends with insulating tape and insert the frame with one half into the body, and the other half to the head. Sew the head to the body.

— Tail :

Round 1 :

Crochet with cream yarn. 6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

12sc (12)

Round 4 :

(1sc, dec)*4 (8)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, leaving the end for sewing pieces. Attach the tail to the back with sewing pins (see photo) and sew. In the process slightly stuff the tail with fiberfill.

— Sweater :

Row 1 :

Start crocheting with mint green yarn in rows. Try on the sweater in the process. If it is large or small, change the hook to a size smaller or larger, respectively. Ch37, from the second chain on the hook: 36sc (36), t-ch, turn

Row 2 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*3, 4sc (40), t-ch, turn. Change color to dark green

Row 3 :

BLO: (6sc, 3sc inc)*2, 6sc, inc, 5sc, (3sc inc, 6sc)*2 (49) t-ch, turn

Row 4 :

3sc, inc, 41sc, inc, 3sc (51), t-ch, turn. Change color to mint green

Row 5 :

BLO: (8sc, 3sc inc)*2, 15sc, (3sc inc, 8sc)*2 (59), t-ch, turn

Row 6 :

3sc, inc, 51sc, inc, 3sc (61). Change color to dark green

Row 7 :

BLO: (10sc, 3sc inc)*2, 17sc, (3sc inc, 10sc)*2 (69), t-ch, turn

Row 8 :

11sc, ch6, skip 14sc, 9sc, inc, 9sc, ch6, skip 14sc, 11sc (54), t-ch, turn. Change color to mint green

Row 9 :

BLO: 11sc, (3sc, inc, 2sc) on the chain, 20sc, (2sc, inc, 3sc) on the chain, 11sc (56), t-ch, turn

Row 10 :

56sc (56)

Info :

Do not cut the yarn. Make an edging on the side of the sweater and crochet buttons loops. Work with mint green yarn: 1sc, ch4 (button loop), 1sc, dark green yarn - 2sc, etc. repeat to the neckline (see photo). Cut the yarn and hide the ends. Sew buttons on the opposite side of the sweater.

— Sleeves :

Info :

Crochet the sleeves (you can adjust the length of the sleeve by crocheting more or less rounds). Attach the dark green yarn to the first unused front loop of row 7 (hold the sweater with the front side towards you)

Round 1 :

14sc, 6sc on the chain of row 8 (20). Change color to mint green

Round 2 :

BLO: 20sc (20)

Round 3 :

20sc (20). Change color to dark green

Round 4 :

BLO: 20sc (20)

Round 5 :

20sc (20). Change color to mint green

Round 6 :

BLO: 20sc (20)

Round 7 :

20sc (20)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in the ends. Crochet the second sleeve in the same way. The right side of the sweater is where we have unused front loops of the odd rows.

— Final Details :

Info :

Put the sweater on the panda and, moving from it 0.5-1 cm down, embroider the navel with a cross stitch with a black embroidering floss (2 strands).

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach eye spots to the head using sewing pins to position them correctly before sewing permanently in place.
  • Install safety eyes by threading the loop, passing threads through marked points, exiting at the same point behind the head, pulling slightly and knotting together.
  • Embroider facial features: eyebrows and mouth with 2 strands of floss, nose with full thread (4-5 stitches), and whites of eyes with white full thread.
  • Attach ears to head in an arc shape (not straight line) using sewing pins first to ensure proper positioning.
  • Insert leg joints or cotter pins into the marked holes in the body, ensuring they snap or secure properly before continuing.
  • Stuff body gradually with fiberfill, being careful not to overstuff the upper leg portions which need to remain flexible for movement.
  • Sew head to body securely, optionally adding a wire frame by folding D1mm wire in half and inserting half into body and half into head.

Important Notes

  • 💡Keep the round marker positioned at the back center of legs throughout construction to ensure proper joint alignment and balanced limb placement
  • 💡Stuff legs firmly in the foot area only, keeping upper portions lightly stuffed to allow proper joint movement and natural positioning
  • 💡Always use sewing pins to temporarily position all pieces before final sewing to check symmetry and overall appearance
  • 💡When installing safety eyes, pull threads gently not forcefully to create subtle indentation without distorting the head shape
  • 💡Try the sweater on the panda during construction and adjust hook size if needed to ensure proper fit
  • 💡The pattern uses extra (shift) stitches to align round markers - these stitches are not counted in the total stitch count

This delightful panda pattern combines classic amigurumi charm with advanced jointed construction for a truly huggable companion. The combination of soft velvet yarn, moveable limbs, and sweet embroidered features creates a toy that's both adorable and durable enough for play. The removable striped sweater adds an extra touch of personality that makes this panda truly special. Whether you're creating a gift or adding to your own collection, this 16cm friend is sure to bring smiles and warm hearts. The detailed instructions guide you through every step, from choosing your joint system to embroidering those sweet facial expressions. 🐼 Happy crocheting! 🧶✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Can I use regular joints instead of plastic joints or cotter pins?

While the pattern is designed for plastic joints (25mm for hind legs, 15mm for forelegs) or cotter pin fastening systems, you could technically make a non-jointed version by simply sewing the limbs directly to the body. However, you'll lose the poseable feature that makes this panda special. If you want moveable limbs, it's best to follow the pattern's recommendations.

What if my yarn is slightly different from the recommended brands?

The pattern calls for fine/4ply yarn (Katia Velvet Fine or YarnArt Baby Cotton). As long as you use a similar weight yarn with a 2mm hook, your panda should turn out close to the 16cm size. Different yarn textures will give slightly different results - velvet yarn creates a softer, plushier look while cotton blends offer more stitch definition.

How do I know which joint system to choose - plastic joints or cotter pins?

Plastic joints are easier for beginners and snap together quickly, making them great for toys that will be handled gently. Cotter pins with disks create a more secure, professional finish and are better for pieces that need to withstand heavy play or frequent repositioning. The pattern includes instructions for both methods, so choose based on your skill level and the panda's intended use.

Is the sweater removable or do I have to make it?

The sweater is completely removable and optional! It's crocheted separately and secured with small buttons, so you can dress and undress your panda. If you prefer a simpler project or want to design your own outfit later, you can skip the sweater entirely and your panda will still be adorable. The sweater pattern includes adjustable sleeve lengths too.

What does the 'extra stitch' or 'shift stitch' mean in this pattern?

The extra (shift) stitch is used to align your round marker when it drifts to the right during continuous crocheting. You crochet one additional single crochet at the end of a round and move your marker forward by one stitch. This realigns your rounds but importantly, this extra stitch is NOT included in your stitch count. It's just for proper marker placement.